“[There’s a] Revolution calling, Revolution calling, Gotta make a change, Gotta push, gotta push it on through.” –Queensryche
Back in 1999 Traxxas shook up the RC world by introducing the T-Maxx. The monster truck genre grew to unprecedented popularity and the T-Maxx led the way. The popularity of the T-Maxx was so huge that it was not uncommon for newcomers unfamiliar with the hobby to state that they wanted a T-Maxx, when they actually knew nothing about the hobby other than the name of the truck.
Now the year is 2004 and Traxxas is out to shake up the industry yet again. While the T-Maxx was a versatile platform, there were several areas of the truck that Traxxas felt as if they could improve upon. However, they didn’t want to be confined within the design specs of the T-Maxx. So they went back to the drawing board and developed an entirely new monster truck, the Traxxas Revo.
It’s important to understand that the Revo is not intended to be a successor to the T-Maxx, but rather a completely new truck built to outperform the T-Maxx in every possible manner. It’s priced somewhat higher than the T-Maxx, but offers a much more refined nitro-powered truck for those willing to invest around $100 more.
While the Revo is a completely new vehicle in its own right, it’s hard for someone familiar with the T-Maxx not to make comparisons between the two. After all, many areas of the T-Maxx that Traxxas concentrated on were brought about by things they wished they had done differently with the T-Maxx. So throughout this review I will undoubtedly compare many parts of the Revo to the T-Maxx.
With all the engineering and technology that went into the Revo, it is truly revolutionary. While Traxxas may not have been the first to develop or use a few of the ideas that are found in the Revo, they are most certainly the first to pack all of them into one model. In doing so they created a truck that has a very low center of gravity and excellent handling, while providing suspension articulation that even solid-axle trucks will envy.
So is the Revo all Traxxas claims it to be? Will it set new trends in handling but still be tough enough to withstand the abuse that backyard bashers dish out? There’s only one way to find out. That’s by putting it through its paces, from break-in to beyond. So let’s get started because there’s a “Revolution Calling” and the revolution begins now!!!
Shocks Well Protected
Included Receiver Pack
Sealed Pivot Balls
Additionally Required Items
Standard 6-Cell Rechargeable Battery Pack
Peak Charger Capable of Charging Standard 6-Cell Pack
8 AA Batteries
Model Name: Traxxas Revo RTR
Price: $479.99 list price
Type: Four Wheel Drive Nitro Powered Monster Truck
Length: 19.125″ (486mm)
Front Track: 16.125″ (414mm)
Rear Track: 16.125″ (414mm)
Center Ground Clearance: 4″ (101mm)
Wheelbase: 11.812″ (300mm)
Weight: 9.4 lbs. (4.26 kg)
Wheel Diameter: 3.8″ (97mm)
Tires: Talon 5.75″x3.5″
Suspension: Fully Independant Sealed Pivot Ball
Shocks: Threaded Aluminum
Gear Ratio First Gear: 23.85:1
Gear Ratio Second Gear: 16.54:1
Transmission: Auto 2-Speed Forward/Reverse
Differential Type: Sealed Bevel Gear, Limited Slip
Driveline: 4WD Shaft Driven
Chassis: 3.0mm 6061 T6 Aluminum Monocoque
Radio: Traxxas TQ3 (3 Channel)
Engine: TRX 2.5R (.15 cubic inch)
Brakes: Steel Disc With Semi-Metallic Pads
Fuel Tank: 125cc
Top Speed: 40+ MPH
UNDER THE HOOD
When it comes to RTR bodies, Traxxas has been producing home runs lately. The bodies included with the Revo are no exception, as they are very detailed and provide a very distinctive look to the truck. There are four variations of the Revo body. These are: black, blue, red, and yellow. The Revo I’m reviewing came installed with the yellow body. While I think all of the colors look good, I was glad I received the yellow. The yellow stands out better than the other colors, in my opinion, and looks very sharp against the tribal theme of the body.
The body is pre-trimmed and holes for the motor and fuel tank access are already cut out. In addition to that, Traxxas has already applied many of the stickers on the body, including the headlights and windows. All you’ll need to do is to apply any extra decals that you may desire on the truck.
The Revo includes a ton of accessories, more than with any other model I’ve come across. So I decided it would be better to split the accessories up instead of trying to cover them all with one picture. It will also showcase exactly what you can expect to receive with your Revo. Traxxas has led the way in RTR models, and the T-Maxx required very little to get it from the box to the dirt. It’s obvious, after seeing everything included with the Revo, Traxxas intends to push the envelope a little further.
There’s no need to purchase a separate receiver pack for the Revo, as Traxxas includes one from the factory. In addition to the receiver pack, they also provide you the means to charge it as well. The included charger is a two piece setup, consisting of an AC to DC transformer as well as the charger itself. They’ve even included screws, in the event that you want to mount the charger to a wall near your workbench. The supplied charger will charge the Revo’s receiver pack in about an hour. While the out of the box configuration only supports AC power, Traxxas offers an optional DC adapter so that you can use it with a car’s cigarette lighter as well.
Tools are a necessity in the hobby, and Traxxas obviously knows that. You’ll find some familiar Traxxas tools in the box, as well as some new ones specific to the Revo. You receive both a 1.5mm and a 2.0mm hex wrench. You’ll also receive two 2.5mm wrenches, one of which has a ball end making it very handy in tight places. Even though you may want to pick up a nice set of hex drivers later on down the road, Traxxas has done a great job of providing these hex wrenches to cover you in the meantime. In addition to that, You’re well supplied with other helpful wrenches as well, receiving three open end wrenches and a couple of socket wrenches. On top of all that, you also receive a tool that helps you work with the pillow ball caps and shocks. Traxxas has definitely covered the tool department for the Revo.
The Revo comes with the 90mm Progressive 1 rockers installed. However should you wish for more suspension articulation, simply reach back into the box and pull out the included Long Travel rockers and springs. These parts increase your travel to a whopping total of 120mm, which is more than any other truck currently on the market. You’ll also receive an optional pair of piston heads, and some standard Traxxas shock oil.
Despite all of that, there’s still more in the box. You’ll also receive the EZ-Start handheld starter, antenna tube, spare pre-oiled air filter, air filter oil, suspension tuning balls with shims, foam body washers, and several spare body clips. In the end, it’s easy to tell that Traxxas went the extra mile when providing accessories for the Revo.
The Revo is well documented, having two manuals devoted to its operation. Whatever you do don’t lose these manuals, as they provide some very valuable information. I personally feel that Traxxas provides some of the best manuals in the industry when it comes to instructions and operational notes. The manuals cover tasks such as motor break-in and suspension technology in elaborate detail, enabling you to understand exactly what makes your Revo tick. In case you don’t have the manual handy for break-in and tuning, Traxxas also provides you with a small card that covers these basics. This item is perfect for storing in your pit box.
You’ll also receive a DVD that details the break-in and other various procedures for your truck. While this is not intended to be a substitute for reading the manual, it does provide you a visual walkthrough of the basics. The lessons on it will especially help those who may be unfamiliar with nitro remote-control models.
The final item in the box is the included sticker sheet. While Traxxas has already applied many of the decals, they also send you a nice selection of optional ones as well. While I appreciate this on the part of Traxxas, I find myself wishing they would use two small sheets as opposed to one giant one. It seems that every sheet I get, whether it’s in a T-Maxx, Revo, or other Traxxas vehicle, is crinkled up which makes some of the decals difficult to use. Sometimes it may be a crease in the decal, while other times the decal may have lifted off the sheet exposing the adhesive underneath. Either situation can result in a decal that may not want to stick. It’s a minor annoyance, but one that could be easily rectified on the part of Traxxas.
The Revo has a unique layout in the world of monster trucks. Up until this point, everything used either a flat chassis design, or twin vertical plates. When Traxxas created the Revo they wanted to achieve a very low center of gravity, but at the same time provide a large amount of suspension travel and ground clearance. Thus the Revo’s monocoque chassis was born. The shocks and transmission are at the center, while the servos, motor, and fuel are on the sides sitting as inward as possible. The result, according to Traxxas, is a truck that should out handle anything that has preceded it.
One of the first things I noticed, aside from the inboard shock configuration, was the carrying handle/roll bar. Its primary function is to protect the motor, and provide an easy way to carry the truck around. Even though the roll bar is plastic, it’s thick and constructed in a manner that helps it provide a strong barrier to damage should the truck ever find itself upside-down. While some may argue that an aluminum roll bar would be a better alternative, I would beg to differ. The plastic will flex instead of bending, which will help cushion any blow that might be dealt its way. An aluminum roll bar may protect the motor, but it would not help cushion the blow. It also may end up bent which would ultimately weaken the bar, or the protection it provides. So I don’t think that an aluminum roll bar would have offered any advantage over the route Traxxas has taken.
At first glance the suspension arms seem devoid of any mass whatsoever. While this true, it doesn’t necessarily mean that strength was compromised. According to Traxxas, engineers spent time examining the best ways to reduce the weight of the suspension arms without compromising the strength of the arm itself. The plastic seems to be a very different type than that previously used on Traxxas trucks. All of this combined means the suspension arms should prove to be much more durable overall than the suspension arms on the Maxx trucks.
Thanks to the electronic OptiDrive unit, which is discussed in detail a little further down, the transmission of the Revo is much more efficient that the one found in the T-Maxx. It contains no reversing clutches and offers a constant-engaging setup while still maintaining the ability to run in reverse. This has translated to a lower part count in the transmission which reduces rotating mass. In addition, the ratio of second gear can be altered so that you can opt for a close-ratio setup for smaller tracks, or a wide-ratio configuration for larger tracks. The out of the box configuration lies in the middle of the optional close and wide ratios.
With the inboard shocks, Traxxas has eliminated shock towers from the Revo. This allows for a much more durable body mount design than seen on the T-Maxx, or other trucks. The body mounts are heavily beefed up, and since they don’t have the forces of the shock acting against them, should easily prove to be very durable. In addition the bumper is easily removed from the truck for maintenance. All that’s necessary to separate the bumper from the body mount is two screws. This makes bumper repairs a snap.
The shock configuration on the Revo is probably the first thing that most people will notice. With the Revo, Traxxas has abandoned the eight vertical shocks setup, that’s found on the T-Maxx, in favor of four horizontally mounted ones in the center of the chassis. Many may insist that horizontal shocks have been used in similar configurations before, making this concept far from revolutionary. An often mentioned example of this is the XTM X-Factor. However, Traxxas brought the shocks much further inboard and the geometric plane on which the shock operates is much different than how other trucks tend to operate in relation to the chassis. So while the inboard shock concept may have been developed from other concepts, the actual application Traxxas uses is unique for an off-road application. It also shows they were thinking outside the box when designing the Revo.
A very nice side benefit of the inboard shocks is the fact they are protected from rocks and debris much better than before. This should provide a much longer shock seal life than previously seen with vertically-mounted shocks. Broken or bent shock shafts are not uncommon occurrences with vertically-mounted shocks, but with the Revo this type of damage should be lessened considerably. This is due to the fact that the shock is out of harms way should a collision occur that would damage the suspension arm area. I’d much rather replace a bent or broken turnbuckle than have to rebuild, or replace, a damaged shock.
Another point to notice is that the rocker and suspension arms on the Revo completely surround the rod ends. Other trucks that use a cantilever or rocker setup don’t employ such means to completely envelope the rod end. Instead, they just mount the rod end alongside the rocker arm. Since Traxxas has surrounded the rod end in this manner, it traps the rod ends inside the rocker and suspension arms on both ends and greatly enhances the overall strength of the suspension. Traxxas even employs this feature on both ends of the shock as well.
The front shocks are very easy to access, when the need arises. A 2.5mm hex driver removes the screws that hold the top of the shock in place, while a 2.0mm hex driver will make quick work of the screws securing the shock to the rocker arm. The rear shocks, particularly the right-hand side shock, present a little more difficulty but nothing major. I found that with a ball end 2.0mm hex driver, I could remove either rear shock without removing the exhaust. Overall, shock removal on the Revo is much easier than with the T-Maxx. Removal of the rockers though, will require removal of the tuned pipe. However removing the tuned pipe is not difficult or time consuming at all.
In examining the rear shocks, you may also notice the fuel tank on the Revo. It holds 125cc of fuel, and has a built-in bronze fuel filter installed at the fuel pickup. The Revo’s fuel tank has a lower profile than the tank used on the T-Maxx. This helps to maintain a more consistent fuel pressure as the tank is emptied. A more consistent fuel pressure helps the carburetor maintain a constant air/fuel ratio as the tank empties. Another difference quickly noticed, is that the fuel tank is also filled from the side instead of the top. The stock Revo body has an opening in it’s side to allow for easy refueling with the body installed, while a pull handle on the lid allows you to easily raise the fuel tank’s lid prior to filling. Installed on the fuel line, between the carburetor and the fuel tank, is a plastic pinching device that can be used to easily shut the engine off.
The Revo shocks are radically different in their design than their predecessors. They are shorter than the shocks found on the Maxx and have a 13mm bore. The bore size puts them on par with 1/8 scale buggy shocks, if not larger in some cases. They also have an aluminum body and threaded preload adjusters. The upper and lower shock caps are plastic, as well as the preload adjuster. I don’t see where there will be any strength issues from these parts being plastic, as the plastic components look to be built of the same high grade of plastic as the rest of the truck.
The shock’s shaft appears to be standard fare at first, until you realize they’re 3.5mm in diameter. For added strength, Traxxas has ditched the e-clip end of the shock inside the body, and now uses a locknut that threads onto the shock rod. This setup, to hold the piston head in place, is utilized in many 1/8 buggies as well. On the lower end of the shock, a progressive silicone bump stop prevents the shock from bottoming out in a harsh manner when landing from large jumps.
One of the biggest differences between the shocks on the Revo, and those on other trucks, is the shock springs themselves. I’ve placed a stock T-Maxx spring beside the spring from the Revo’s shock in the picture above. Aside from the fact it’s shorter, the most apparent difference is the diameter of the coils. They’re huge when compared to standard springs, and are what provides four shocks the ability to handle suspension duties for a heavy truck such as the Revo. Traxxas also offers a number of other springs with various rates as well. You’ll want to ensure you correctly match your springs with the rocker arms you’re using, as the Long Travel rockers require longer springs. Traxxas provides one set of 120mm travel springs along with the Long travel rockers that are in the box. However should you want a different rate, they offer a large selection of optional springs as well.
The bearing carriers on the Revo are similar in design to those found on the T-Maxx. However, they do boast a few distinct differences. The most obvious would be the blue seals that protect the pivot balls from dirt and debris, which can cause premature wear. The seals that cover the pivot ball caps have slits in them so that you can easily slide a 2.5mm hex driver into the pivot balls to adjust camber settings. These seals can also be easily pulled out if you need access to the pivot ball cap. The seals on the opposite side of the carrier can be removed as well, should the need arise.
You may also have noticed the hollow area where the axle starts to pass through the carrier has been enlarged as well. This was to accommodate the very large axle shafts of the Revo. The bearing carriers house two bearings of differing sizes. The inner bearing is 12x18mm, while the outer bearing is 6x12mm. Like all of the bearings throughout the Revo, they are sealed from the elements by silicone dust seals.
It should also be noted that Traxxas has been able to eliminate bump steer from the Revo. Along with the included accessories is a set of tuning balls and shims which can be used between the steering linkage and the bearing carrier to negate bump steer. The exact combinations of tuning balls and shims will vary depending upon how you have the Revo’s suspension setup. However, the manual includes a chart that shows you how to determine the appropriate combination so that you avoid any bump steer.
Like the T-Maxx, the Revo uses plastic sliding axles. However, the similarity ends there. The Revo axles, as shown above, are much larger than the slider axles found on the Maxx. For comparison purposes I have placed a stock Maxx axle alongside the Revo’s axle in the picture above. For those who are curious, the Revo’s axles have a total diameter of 18mm. In addition to beefing up the axles, Traxxas has also sealed the slider portion of the driveshaft to prevent anything from getting inside them and causing them to bind. The u-joints at both ends of the driveshaft are very large, and e-clips are used to ensure the u-joint stays centered on the driveshaft ears.
Traxxas has also altered the splines of the axles as well. The Maxx used a set of axles that had four squared-off splines. With the Revo, the count has increased, and the splines are curved. This, combined with their large size, should eliminate axle twisting problems that had been seen on modified Maxx trucks.
If you look closely, you should notice the axle stub looks much different than the one normally seen on Traxxas vehicles. The thicker portion of the axle stub fits inside the 12x18mm bearing, while the 6x12mm bearing supports the smaller end. The end of the driveshaft that mates with the differential is held in place by a grub screw style pin that can be removed with a 2.0mm hex driver. This pin setup should be very familiar to anyone who has ever worked on the newer style Maxx trucks, and it works very well.
The receiver box on the Revo resembles the ones found on some touring cars more than a monster truck. A sticker on the top of the box indicates the frequency channel the receiver operates on. In my case this was yellow, which is channel #4 (27.145 MHz). If you have others you run with, you can buy optional crystals which will enable six Revos to be run at the same time, when using the stock radio equipment.
Towards the front of the receiver box, you’ll see the OptiDrive electronic shifting control. It should be noted that the OptiDrive only controls shifting between forward and reverse. First to second gear shifts are still adjusted by setting a grub screw in the transmission, and the OptiDrive has absolutely nothing to do with their operation.
The OptiDrive system has several benefits. One is that it removes the jerky starts during early acceleration that the T-Maxx would often exhibit. This was due to the internal transmission components associated with the reversing mechanism, and was often the reason many chose to remove reverse from the T-Maxx. The OptiDrive system eliminates the needs for the extra components found in the T-Maxx’s reversing system, and therefore it lowers the rotational mass inside the transmission. This helps to provide much crisper, and smoother, acceleration than would be possible with the previous reversing setup. OptiDrive also protects the transmission by preventing you from engaging reverse when the truck is in motion. So OptiDrive gives you reverse without all of the formally associated drawbacks.
The OptiDrive also performs a few other functions as well. While reverse is engaged it also limits the amount of power available in reverse. After all, reverse is for backing out of a tight situation not running races. So limiting the power available in reverse helps prevent loss of control should the throttle be applied a little too generously. In addition to everything else, the OptiDrive sensor will also monitor the receiver pack’s voltage as well. While it’s not a complete substitute for a failsafe, it will help prevent loss of control should the pack begin to lose its charge.
Upon opening the receiver box, by removing a single clip, you can see how roomy the box really is. The receiver is much easier to access than many off-road trucks, including the T-Maxx. So changing the crystal, or adjusting the channel on synthesized aftermarket receivers, should present no difficulty at all. The stock Traxxas receiver pack is located under the receiver, which helps keep its weight low on the chassis. In fact, the top of the receiver pack is sitting lower than the shocks.
On the opposite side of the chassis, you’ll find two servos tucked away inside another box. The servo towards the rear of the truck handles the throttle and braking functions on the Revo. Notice that Traxxas uses their high-torque 2055 for this application. It provides a much better clamping force on the brakes than the 2015 the T-Maxx used. The mini-servo, a Traxxas 2060, is used to shift the transmission between forward and reverse. Since this servo didn’t need to provide a lot of power, Traxxas opted to use a mini-servo for the Revo’s reversing duties. This approach helps in regards to weight, and more importantly receiver pack life. Running four high-torque servos off of the receiver pack would run the pack’s charge down fairly quickly. Using a smaller servo helps eliminate some of the load the receiver pack experiences.
The bottom of the Revo is a mixture of the aluminium monocoque chassis, and plastic skid plates. All crucial underside components are well protected out of the box. You have skid plates under the bulkheads, and one that protects the transmission as well. The skid plate that covers the front bulkheads also protects the adjustable servo saver. There’s even a skid plate that protects the underside of the fuel tank. In addition to those items, the steering servos are protected by a pair of plastic servo guards as well.
I’ve mentioned that the Revo comes equipped with a receiver pack. I also mentioned that it’s located directly under the receiver, which would make frequent access to it somewhat time consuming. However, Traxxas covered this aspect as well. Since the most often needed task in regards to a receiver pack is charging, you’ll find a charging jack located on the underside of the receiver box. You simply plug the charger into the jack, and you’re ready to charge. You don’t even need to open the receiver box. The charging jack is protected from the elements by a rubber plug that is pressed into place once charging is complete.
The dual servo approach used on the Revo provides some serious turning power. Both servos are Traxxas 2055 high-torque servos, which are rated at 80 oz/in. of torque at 6.0 volts each. Even while the truck is motionless, the steering setup has no difficulty in turning the wheels fully in either direction. While this could have also been accomplished with an expensive single high-end servo, the Revo’s setup allows you to use two less costly servos. However, the Revo can be converted over to a single servo setup if desired.
Standard servo savers cannot be used with the dual-steering servo setup found on the Revo. The Revo’s servo saver was developed specifically for this application. It uses a series of servo horns, adjustable links, and rod ends, to connect the servos to the actual servo saver. The tension of the servo saver is also adjustable by using shims under the spring. This allows you to tailor the stiffness of the servo to suit your tastes. Traxxas also offers an optional spring for the servo saver in the event you replace the steering servos with a metal geared servo.
From the underside of the Revo, you can also get a good look at the Revo’s braking system. Semi-metallic pads are mounted onto aluminum alloy calipers. A caliper sits on each side of a steel rotor that’s been cross drilled for ventilation. This setup helps to prevent brake fading under heavy use, and keeps the braking power more consistent as the truck is run. In addition the rod that ties the brake to the Traxxas 2055 servo has a thumbwheel on it so that braking power can be easily altered to suit your driving preferences, or to adjust for pad wear.
When Traxxas designed the Revo, they wanted to move away from the screw-type suspension pins that they used throughout their product lineup. While the screw pins worked fairly well, they would often back out, or the head would become clogged with dirt. So Traxxas developed a captured suspension pin approach for use on the Revo. The lower suspension pins are only 24mm long, and two are used to support both sides of the suspension arms. The pins slide into place easily and are held tight by plates that prevent them from sliding out as the truck is driven. The example above shows how one end of the front suspension pins fit into the suspension arm, while the other end locks into the skid plate.
This suspension pin approach provides several benefits. Obviously you’ll no longer be subjected to retightening pins down when they back out. It also means that you won’t have to clean out the dirt that’s lodged in the screw pins head before tightening it back down either. However a benefit that not often though of immediately is the fact that this approach should help eliminate the problem of difficult to remove bent pins. Previously a bent suspension pin may have required pliers, with a good dose of patience, before it could be removed. This is because it spanned completely between both sides of the lower suspension arms, which required you to pull the bent portion of the pin though a large amount of plastic. Now not only are the pins stronger than the stainless steel screw-type pins were, but they will be easier to remove should they become bent due to their shorter size.
The suspension pins for the upper arms are similar to the lower pins in the aspect that they use the captured approach as well. However the upper arms still use a long single pin that stretches across the entire span of the suspension arm. Most problems with bent suspension pins occurred with the lower suspension arms, so for the upper arms this should present very few problems. Especially with the stronger captured-style pins that are being used on the Revo.
You should also notice that the upper suspension pin area is a hotbed of adjustability. You can change the location of the upper suspension pins to alter the roll center for both the front and the rear of the Revo. You can also rearrange the plastic c-clips, on the upper suspension pins, to alter the caster angle of the front suspension as well. This is similar to what’s offered by the T-Maxx, but the Revo offers the capability of adjusting from 5-15°, which is greater than what the Maxx offered. This helps the Revo to achieve a very diverse set of handling characteristics. Suspension tuning is covered in extensive detail in the manual provided along with the Revo.
The bulkheads used on the Revo are a far cry from those found on the Maxx trucks. While they are still used to house the differential, they are secured entirely to the aluminum chassis plate across their entire length. This is a stark contrast to what was seen with the approach with the Maxx, where the chassis plate and the bulkhead were attached together at only one end. In addition the bulkhead no longer provides a place to mount the bumpers, as the bumpers are now actually secured into the body mounts. All of this means that the bulkheads are no longer a focal point during a crash, making them very unlikely to become damaged.
The differentials of the Revo have been beefed up substantially, and bear very little in resemblance to the ones found in the Maxx. The plastic housing that holds the differential no longer has left and right sides, but rather front and rear halves. This is a common setup found with 1/8 scale buggies. It will also eliminate the difference in gear backlash that the Maxx would often see when the plastic case screws were torqued down differently. Also the bearing on the ring-gear side of the differential is 8x16mm, which is beefier than the 10x15mm bearing found on the other side of the differential. The 8x16mm bearing can handle the much larger thrust forces that are dished out on the ring-gear side of the differential. You’ll also likely notice that, in keeping with the theme of sealed bearings throughout the Revo, these bearings are sealed as well.
The plastic case halves also have threaded metal inserts in them as well, which helps to increase their holding strength. Hex head fasteners are a common sight throughout the Revo, and the differential area is no exception. Hex head screws hold the differential housing together as well as the differential itself. The small stainless screw screws found in the Maxx differentials don’t hold a candle to the hardware that’s used to hold the Revo’s differential together.
Just like with 1/8 scale buggies, the differentials are rubber sealed and filled with oil instead of grease. To accomplish the sealing of oil inside the differential, Traxxas uses x-ring seals around the output shafts. An x-ring seal effectively create two sealing points instead of one, like a standard o-ring seal would have. This virtually eliminates the chances of the differential leaking oil. The use of differential oil, as opposed to grease, allows you to better tailor the action of the differential to suit your tastes, or track condition. The differentials come filled with 30,000 weight oil, and Traxxas offers 10,000 and 50,000 weight separately. You can also find many other weights through aftermarket vendors that were made for differentials of this nature.
The motor mount on the Revo is designed to hold the motor at an angle, with it tilting towards the center of the truck. This helps to keep the weight of the motor closer to the chassis centerline. The motor mount differs from the traditional type found on the T-Maxx, in that it’s not a one piece mount. The frame for the motor mount is secured to the chassis, while the portion that is attached to the motor is a separate piece altogether.
To achieve a proper spur gear gap you angle the motor and its mount, then tighten down the two screws accessed from the rear of the truck when the gap is correct. I tried resetting my spur gap several times to see how well it worked, and found it to be much easier than using the mount on the T-Maxx. On the T-Maxx, the setting can drift slightly as you tighten the screws down, because you are trying to hold the motor from the top while working on the bottom. The Revo’s mount experienced none of these symptoms since it was all accessed from the upper side of the chassis and could be easily held in place while tightening.
Starter box fans rejoice, as the Revo is capable of being used with starter boxes. Just in front of the motor mount is a cutout in the chassis designed to give a starter box access to the Revo’s flywheel. While there were no Revo-specific starter boxes available when the truck was released, I’ve heard of several people using modified starter boxes. I’m also aware of the fact that both Ballistic Batteries and RD Racing Products are releasing starter boxes specifically for the Revo. I’m confident that several other starter box options will emerge within the next few months as well.
The Traxxas 2.5 was a masterpiece of engineering when it was first introduced. At the time it took the .15 motor category to power levels that had not yet been seen. A few years later there are other motors that can boast of similar power levels, but that doesn’t take away the fact that the Traxxas 2.5 is still an incredible stock motor. So with the Revo, Traxxas reworked the design of the 2.5 a little further and extracted a little more performance from it. Then they dubbed it the 2.5R.
The most obvious change for the Traxxas 2.5R is the new PowerTune head it’s been equipped with. Gone is the cast aluminum head, and in its place is a new machined head that’s been anodized in blue. The new head should provide better cooling capability, and provide more strength than the old cast aluminum head as well. On the inside of the motor, the sleeve has been modified to boost efficiency and power as well. These improvements help push this 9.4 lb. truck to the 40 MPH range.
I’m sure some people will argue about the fact that the Revo should have been powered by a big block motor. However, what one should keep in mind is that the Revo is a 1/10 scale monster truck. This category is typically powered by a small block motor. In addition Traxxas has always emphasized power-to-weight ratios, and handling, more than simply bolting in the biggest motor possible. If you happen to be one of those that desire more power, most aftermarket motors that were designed for the T-Maxx should work well for the Revo. You may just find it necessary to wait a few months so that engine mounting and header solutions emerge for them.
The EZ-Start makes an appearance on the Revo and functions just as it did on previous Traxxas models. Simply plug a fully charged 6-cell battery pack with Tamiya connectors into the handheld EZ-Starter, and then insert it into the plug on the rear body mount. Pressing the button on the EZ-Start then starts the truck. The EZ-Start will also let you know when the glow plug dies, or if the engine is flooded. These are features most other starting combinations don’t have.
The high speed and low speed needles on the 2.5R are very easily reached. The high speed needle is contained in the brass housing and faces the top of the truck, while the low speed needle is located on the carburetor’s slider right above the flywheel. The idle adjustment screw is located on the opposite side of the motor at the base of the high speed needle. Despite the idle screw being on the same side of the motor as the fuel tank, it’s easily reached just as the other needles are. When tuning, you should also keep in mind that the Traxxas 2.5R requires a very fine touch in regards to needle adjustments. A very common mistake with the Traxxas 2.5 was the owner over-adjusting the needles when leaning or richening. The very same thing can also be anticipated for the 2.5R, as it tunes in the same manner. While the manual states make adjustments in 1/8 or 1/16 increments, I’d avoid 1/8 turns. In fact, I’d recommend using no more than 1/12 increments when leaning the motor.
There are a few other items that bear pointing out regarding the Revo and the 2.5R. One is Traxxas has installed a throttle return spring on it at the factory. Anyone who has ever chased an, out of control, nitro-powered vehicle running away from them, knows how scary of a concept a runaway is. A throttle return spring will return the throttle to its idle position should the power from the receiver pack happen to die completely. Another nice feature of the Revo is the throttle bell crank itself. If you look closely, you’ll notice the carburetor’s slide arm sits in a recessed area in the plastic bell crank. This eliminates the need to pop a ball cup on and off the linkage when the motor is pulled. This simple touch, on the part of Traxxas, helps to make motor removal and installation a breeze.
The supplied tuned pipe is a multi-chambered, blue anodized aluminum pipe. It’s positioned so that it vents the exhaust out the rear of the truck. The final exiting of the exhaust takes places through a supplied silicone exhaust deflector. The header is the same diameter as the one used on the Traxxas 2.5, but routes the spent exhaust towards the rear of the truck instead of the side like in the T-Maxx. The header is mated to the tuned pipe by a blue silicone exhaust coupler. Both the header and the pipe are flared where the coupler ties them together. This helps the zip-ties to lock the coupler in place, and prevents the coupler from working its way loose from either part of the exhaust system. The header is secured to the motor by two hex head screws. A heavy-duty pipe hanger holds the pipe center to the chassis, and prevents it from being banged around while the truck is being driven.
The Revo also sports a completely new slipper clutch than Traxxas has used in the past. Traxxas calls the new slipper clutch system “Torque Control”. It uses three individual semi-metallic slipper pads, instead of the pegs that were previously used for a Traxxas slipper clutch. The slipper pads engage themselves against a steel slipper plate, and are mounted on a finned aluminum mount that helps to dissipate heat easily. The new Torque Control slipper clutch system eliminates the spur gear from being damaged by a slipper clutch setting that is too loose. In addition to that, the spur gear can be easily replaced without altering, or removing, the slipper clutch.
The stock rockers that come installed on the Revo offer a large amount of suspension travel, a total of 90mm to be exact. For normal bashing or racing, this will usually be sufficient. However in some cases, such as rock climbing or extremely rough terrain, you may desire more suspension articulation. To give the Revo this capability Traxxas includes an additional set of rocker arms. Dubbed the Long Travel rockers, these offer an additional 30mm of travel over the Progressive 1 rockers that come installed on the Revo.
The additional suspension travel is split between downward travel and upward travel. You’ll gain 20mm of upward travel and 10mm of downward travel with the optional rocker. This gives you a total of 80mm of upward travel and 40mm of downward travel. In comparison the stock rockers offer 60mm and 30mm respectively. In the picture above, I’ve raised the front of the Revo off of the ground and installed a Long Travel rocker and its associated spring on one side. Notice how the stock rocker has bottomed out and is no longer touching the table, but the Long Travel setup is still contacting the table. This showcases the extra downward travel accomplished by swapping out the stock Progressive 1 rocker for the Long Travel rockers.
Full suspension articulation is just as impressive. With 90-120mm of suspension travel on hand, depending upon which rockers are installed, the Revo boasts suspension articulation that used to be achievable only by solid axle trucks. However that’s not the case anymore and the Revo still retains the handling characteristics of independent suspension. As a reference, the jar of Bob Dively liquid masking in the above picture is around 7 inches high, and the suspension still has a slight amount of upward travel it could still achieve.
The rims that come on the Revo mate to the standard Maxx hex adapter. However as a general rule most Maxx wheels will not fit due to the offset and diameter differences of the wheels on the Revo. The Wheels themselves are 5-spoke plastic rims with a chrome finish. Traxxas has pre-drilled a ventilation hole in the rim as well, preventing you from having to perform that step to ensure that air can flow in and out of the tire as needed.
The tires on the Revo are made by Traxxas and called Talon tires. They are 3.5 inches wide and 5.75 inches tall and have foam inserts installed inside them. The tires themselves use a more performance oriented tread design than the Chevron-type tires found on the Maxx trucks. The tire material itself is also a lot more pliable than the stock Maxx tire as well. Judging by the way they feel, if I didn’t know that Traxxas made them, I would have guessed they were a new tire from Pro-Line.
The tires on the Revo come pre-glued which makes the Revo even more of an RTR than the Maxx was. In addition to that, the tire beads sit inside a deep channel in the rim which helps add even more strength to the glued tire beads. The deep channel prevents most of the centrifugal force from acting upon the tire, which leaves the glue with the primary function of just preventing the rim from spinning inside of the tire.
With all the features and engineering that went into the Revo, it’s almost a disappointment when you see the radio. The Revo still uses the TQ3, which is very familiar to Maxx owners. It’s not necessarily a bad radio, but with the thought that went into the rest of the truck you really expect something new or different.
The TQ3 radio works in the 27 MHz AM range, and is a three channel radio. The third channel is controlled by the red rocker switch located just left of the trigger. The radio also boasts servo-reversing capabilities and trim knobs for both steering and throttle. However, since the trim knobs are analog, they can be altered when the radio is switched off. So you’ll want to verify their setting before each running session. You can also adjust the throttle range from 50/50 to 70/30, which determines how much throttle travel you’ll have in each direction.
I can appreciate the fact of why Traxxas uses a cheaper radio, as it relates directly to cost. A good radio could easily add $100 or more to the cost of the Revo, making it less likely of a purchase for a prospective buyer. Especially if the prospective purchaser is new to the hobby. Furthermore chances are the included radio would still not be the preference of many people, so it would still end up being replaced. Low-end radios in a RTR model are not uncommon, and are in fact the norm. However very little else on the Revo fits within what was once thought normal for a monster truck, so the initial impression with the radio is in huge contrast to the rest of the truck.
My biggest gripe with the radio overall, is the fact you cannot use it in conjunction with a rechargeable transmitter pack. The TQ3 is only designed to use AA batteries. While it is possible to use rechargeable AA NiMH cells, and a standalone charger, I think the ability to use a true receiver pack is a feature that is well worth it. The capability to simply plug a charger into the radio itself and charge the pack makes things much easier. In addition, and this is more of a matter of personal preference than anything, I just don’t care much for the way the TQ3 fits my hand. The handle feels awkward, and thicker, than most radios I’m used to.
The first thing that needs attention is the receiver antenna. You’ll want to find the antenna tube in the bag of extra parts, and then thread the antenna wire through the tube. The antenna wire should be coiled up between the transmission and the receiver box.
Be careful when pushing the antenna wire through the tube, you don’t want to bend or damage it. If you find it difficult to feed the wire through the tube, sprinkle some baby powder on the wire before pushing it through. Another method that works well is to place a couple of drops of bearing oil in the tube before pushing the antenna through.
Once the antenna is installed, find the black antenna cap. It should be in the parts bag that contains the spare body clips. Use it to cap off the top of the antenna tube. If you want to protect the excess antenna that hangs out under the cap, you can use a small section of heat-shrink tubing to cover the antenna wire and the plastic tube.
Before you run, you’ll want to charge the Revo’s receiver pack. To do this you remove the rubber plug in the bottom of the receiver box and expose the charging jack. Next find the charger’s AC to DC transformer and the charging unit itself. Then you simply connect the transformer’s plug to the charger. Plug the transformer into a wall receptacle, and the charger’s plug into the jack under the receiver box. The light on the charger should begin to blink quickly indicating the receiver pack is being rapid charged. If the pack is nearly depleted, it will take around an hour for it to fully charge. Once it’s charged remove the charging lead from the jack, and replace the rubber plug in the bottom of the receiver box.
You’ll also need to charge the 6-cell pack that powers the EZ-Start handheld unit. This 6-cell pack, and charger, is not included with the Revo. You’ll want to follow the directions that are packaged with your charger when you charge the 6-cell battery pack. Once it’s charged, insert the Tamiya-style plug on the battery pack into the EZ-Starter. Then twist the battery pack a couple of times to take up the slack in the wires. Set the battery in the EZ-Start and replace the cover.
To ready the Traxxas TQ3 radio for operation, you’ll need to have 8 AA batteries on hand. I strongly recommend using quality batteries, not cheap ones from a discount store. Not only will they last longer, but they will provide a stronger signal as well. Insert the AA batteries as indicated on the radio’s battery holder. Then replace the cover.
The last thing you’ll need to do is to make a cooling hole in the front windshield. This allows airflow to the motor so that it can maintain a proper operating temperature. They are several ways to go about this procedure. I usually use a hole saw, as it provides perfect circles. In the case of the Revo, I used a 1.5 inch hole saw for the cooling hole, and it has provided plenty of airflow. Avoid cutting out the entire windshield, as that will only weaken the body. All other openings in the body are cut out at the factory. If you desire to apply any additional stickers on the body, now would be the time to do so.
TIME FOR ACTION
The first thing that I needed to do was to break the Traxxas 2.5R motor in. The 2.5R is a high precision racing motor with very tight tolerances, so I recommend strictly adhering to the 5 tank break-in procedure as laid out by Traxxas in the manual.
You’ll need to select a rather large open area for break-in, and it should also be paved. I chose a local high school parking lot. Part of the reason was because it was just a few miles from the house. However a large part of the reason was that I started break-in at 8:00pm and would need the lighted parking lot before it was over.
I ran the first tank through the Revo and gave it the required 15 minute cool down period afterwards. I did end up richening the high speed needle a total of about a half a turn. I didn’t think that I saw enough of a smoke trail by the time I was part of the way through my first tank. I quick check of with a temp gauge revealed that I was running around 260°. While that is under the maximum operating temperature of 270° it was still a little high for driving around at part throttle with the body off. The night I performed break-in was also a rather cool summer evening, which would have caused the truck to run a little more on the lean side. So I ended up richening the high speed needle to get it to a mixture I felt was safe and comfortable for my situation. Keep in mind that you should first try to perform break-in without any adjustment at all though.
Tanks two, three, and four, went off without a hitch. Soon I was on tank five, and nearing the end of the break-in routine. Once I hit tank five, I found myself needing to lean the high speed needle a little bit so the truck would shift into second gear. A simple 1/12 turn clockwise was all that was needed before the Revo was hitting second gear and screaming across the quickly darkening parking lot.
About 1/3 of the way through tank number five the Revo shut itself down. Of course this happened at the far end of the parking lot, forcing me to get my weekly exercise while retrieving it. I was certain the glow plug had died, and using the EZ-Start I quickly confirmed that was indeed the problem. I quickly swapped the glow plug, and all was well again. Soon tank number five was finished, and break-in complete.
I never once experienced a problem with the Revo flooding during any of the break-in tanks. Aside from the glow plug dying, I never had any stalling problems either. It idled and drove perfectly, making break-in very painless. The break-in procedure lasted about two hours from beginning to end. However that also accounts for the time I spent chatting with a sheriff’s deputy who rode through the parking lot making his normal rounds.
Even with the lights in the parking lot it was still relatively dark towards the end of the break-in session. However that made the Revo much more interesting. The flashing light of the OptiDrive system made the Revo look like something more out of a science fiction movie than an RC truck. While the flashing blue lights couldn’t be seen through the stickers that represent the side windows, they glowed through the side of the body and out of the cooling holes in the front and rear of the tuck. It was definitely a very cool sight to behold.
With break-in complete it was time to get to business. At the first available opportunity I set out to subject the Revo a healthy dose of bashing, eager to see how the Revo would handle any abuse that I might throw its way. However, before I get a run in, I was dealt a problem that would have me scratching my head for a few minutes. With the Revo fueled up and ready to go, I inserted the EZ-Start unit and pushed the button. Nothing happened. I tried it again and noticed that both lights on the EZ-Start were lit, however the motor didn’t even try to turn over. Not in the least.
I immediately considered the fact that I had flooded the motor, even though that didn’t sound as if it were the case. However that wasn’t the problem at all, nor was the piston stuck at the top of the cylinder. I also checked the leads and saw plenty of voltage at the EZ-Start motor. So I was convinced the starter motor was the source of my problem. I quickly plugged in a spare EZ-Start motor to see it turn over, and it did so without hesitation. That narrowed things down considerably, or so I had thought.
I then decided to plug the leads back into the starter on the Revo. Once I did so, the motor started turning the 2.5R over once again. Now it was apparent the problem wasn’t the starter motor on the Revo. In the end, I found that the clip on the positive lead of the EZ-Start wiring harness was a little loose. So I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to tighten the connection back up, and it gave me no further problems.
With the Revo fired up I started playing in the dirt, allowing the truck to get up to operating temperature. After a couple of small adjustments with the high speed needle the Revo was laying down some serious power and staying in the 220-235° range as I checked it several times throughout the day.
My initial impression with the power band was awe. I had expected the truck to feel very similar to a T-Maxx in regards to acceleration, but it didn’t. Acceleration felt much stronger and instantaneous than a T-Maxx, despite the fact the Revo weighs more. The final gear ratio between the two trucks is very similar, so the new Optidrive reversing system probably accounts for a good portion of the stronger bottom end. With the internal clutches and reversing mechanism of the T-Maxx gone, the power reaches the wheels much more efficiently. I also expect the new slipper clutch system helps out in this regard as well.
The Revo seems to have a much better transfer of weight than the T-Maxx does. When coupled with the Talon tires, it provides much better traction off-road than the stock T-Maxx tires and suspension. This helps the Revo launch harder, with less traction loss, which most certainly assists in the acceleration department as well. In the speed department, the Revo seems to be very similar to a T-Maxx. This puts it around 40MPH, which obviously would be somewhat dependant upon tuning and weather conditions.
While at speed, the truck handles itself very well when cornering. The suspension soaks up the bumps and ground imperfections with ease and agility. My dad, after watching and driving it, commented it had a cat-like stance while being driven. The stock tires have a lot of side-bite, and despite the Revo’s low center of gravity, it can be rolled over in some situations. This tends to happen when sliding sideways, from a low-traction surface, into a higher traction area at full speed. However after getting used to driving the truck, you quickly can tell that the truck has gained traction and learn to compensate for it. The Revo is most certainly head and shoulders above the cornering characteristics of the T-Maxx, and other monster trucks as well.
When climbing a dirt pile or hill, the Revo seems to just stick to the dirt and hug itself to the ground’s shape as it makes it way to the top. It handles steep climbs of that nature with ease, each time I climbed, making it look like it was no big chore at all. This is true even when the angle got so steep that a T-Maxx, or most other monster trucks, would have wheelied over on their back.
After giving myself some time to adjust to the Revo’s handling and maneuverability characteristics, it was time to get some air. After all, who wants to keep a monster truck on the ground all the time? I chose an area with some grass to help provide plenty of traction for the run to the ramp. Still fairly new to the Revo, I wanted to feel as if I was in complete control in the moments before liftoff. My first few jumps were far from perfect, but that had more to do with me than anything else. I was using my curved skateboard type ramp, and I was over compensating the nose-up launch the ramp provides. After a few more jumps, I became a little more comfortable with the Revo and started producing nice consistent level jumps.
The Revo is well balanced when jumping, and the suspension seemed to easily soak up the landing. Even when landing a little less than perfect, the Revo’s suspension seemed to correct the truck into a more agile landing. I found out on several occasions though, that the weight being shifted and absorbed by the suspension made it really easy to pull a wheelie if you got back into the throttle too quickly upon landing. Then again, with a 9.4 lb. truck jumping between 4 to 8 feet, you’d expect a tremendous amount of traction when it initially lands!
Then I got brave, and started trying to pull of flips as the truck left the ramp. It took me several attempts before I got my timing down to the point I successfully pulled off some flips, but once I did they could be obtained fairly easily. The unsuccessful jumps showcased the durability of the Revo as I landed in a multitude of angles, and even cart-wheeled several times. Not once did I break anything, although I did manage to lose quite a few body clips and the exhaust deflector slid off several times. On one occasion the rear end came down so hard it folded the exhaust deflector as it hit the ground which shut the motor off. However nothing was broken and the truck fired right back up with the EZ-Start. Flaring out the pipe’s stinger a little, with a screwdriver, solved the problem with the deflector sliding off.
After several back-to-back tanks worth of jumping and playing in the dirt, I pulled the Revo back in and gave it a good through examination. I could only find one thing that needed to be addressed, and that was the fact the wheel nuts had managed to loosen themselves. In fact, this was a reoccurring problem I would notice as time went on. I’ll attribute this to the fact that very little of the nylon inside the locking nut seemed to remain after it was first installed. This can be easily solved by using some thread lock, or another set of wheel nuts. You definitely will want to keep a check on them though, as a loose wheel nut can damage the hex adapter, the wheel itself, or both.
Later on during another outing with the Revo, I used the optional Long Travel Rockers that Traxxas provided with the truck. The Long Travel rockers do add a substantial amount of suspension articulation to the truck, and they are definitely the route to go when running through seriously rough terrain. They soak up the bumps and terrain changes like they are non-existent. However, that’s really their only good purpose. For general running at higher speeds, or jumping, I would stick with the Progressive Rockers instead. The Long Travel Rockers loose all progressive tendencies, and offer a very soft ride. This weakens cornering ability, and increases the possibility of bottoming out on mid to large size jumps. For general running, the factory installed Progressive 1 rockers are the best overall option between the two choices.
Over the course of several more outings with the truck, I can say that my favorable opinion of the Revo has grown even stronger. While the truck is incredible in regards to handling, the overall durability has proved itself to be just as amazing. The work of the engineers at Traxxas, when designing the durability of the design, has not gone unnoticed by me in the least.
Before I’m accused of taking it too easy on the truck, I can say that I have managed to damage the Revo some, but nothing like I expected. It should also be pointed out, that this truck has been jumped well over 200 times, and landed on several types of terrain. Furthermore many of these jumps ended with poor landings, especially once I started trying to pull off flips, where timing was critical and practice essential.
So exactly what did I damage? For starters, I had to replace the exhaust coupler, as it ended up with a small rip in it. While the flaring of the header and pipe helps to hold the coupler in place, a bad landing on the rear of the truck undoubtedly caused the flare to stretch the coupler to its limits. This forced me to replace it. The hobby store was out of the replacement couplers, so I ended up using a GS Racing coupler instead. It’s thicker than the Traxxas coupler, and has held up very well so far.
I’ve also managed to bend the front left push-rod. However a wide open run into the corner of a railroad tie where I misjudged my distance can easily cause much more damage than that most of the time. My solution was to bend the push-rod back as straight as possible, since the rod ends suffered no damage at all.
The last item I managed to damage was the left-rear shock rod. This was a result of a set of crazy jumps, which consisted of the curved ramp and the truck running up it at an angle instead of hitting it straight-on. The jumps looked pretty wild and the truck would launch from the ramp with one side higher than the other. However a bad end over end landing must have exhibited some serious stresses on the left-rear suspension. The result was that the shock rod itself broke off at the threads where the rod end screws on.
I find the shock rod breakage interesting, and even encouraging, to an extent. The reason for this is that the rod end still remained intact on the rocker arm. For the breakage to occur in this manner, it shows that the rod ends of the rocker arm setup are far from being a weak point. I was able to remove the remainder of the shock rod from the plastic rod end so that I could reuse the rod end. I experienced no further problems from the rod end or the shock rod since.
Don’t let the few small items that were damaged fool you into believing this truck isn’t tough, because it is. For all of the abuse the Revo has been through, it has held up exceptionally well. The Revo has had somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.5 gallons run through it by now, and I’ve spent less than $10 on replacement parts. That pretty much speaks for itself, especially considering much of that time was spent jumping. The Revo is most certainly, a very tough truck.
The Revo has proven itself to me to be a very capable monster truck in regards to handling. In addition, it’s been very durable throughout my testing as well. This has proven to me that it is just as capable for those who want durability, as well as those whose primary concern is handling. I see absolutely no truth in the myths and thoughts that the Revo is primary for racing, and will not hold up as a basher. I honestly feel that a year from now the Revo will be the benchmark which most other trucks are being judged against, just as the T-Maxx was.
In regards to immediate upgrade needs they are very few. I personally would consider the radio to be one of the first upgrades needed, especially for anyone who plans on spending any time at the track. Digital trims, along with features such as adjustable endpoints, will most certainly provide some benefits over the no-frills stock TQ3 radio. Even a basher would see some benefits from a radio that provides a charging jack, as using AA batteries to power the radio can get expensive over time.
While most trucks in this category could stand to have a high-torque servo installed, the Revo isn’t necessary one of them. There’s plenty of turning power available, and the only reasons to consider an upgrade of the steering servos would be to gain metal gears, or to shed some weight and use a single servo. So a steering servo may be a possible consideration as well depending upon the wishes of the owner.
Traxxas has, without a doubt, done their homework on the Revo. They took a leap of faith and turned out an entirely new approach that is far removed from the widely popular T-Maxx platform. In doing so, they have issued a challenge to all other manufacturers in the genre. It will be very interesting to see how it’s answered. Regardless of what happens the consumers are going to be the real winner, as competition between the manufacturers only breeds a better RC experience for all of us.
MANUFACTURER & DISTRIBUTOR INFO
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