R/C Dossier for: MAD WEB TV SCIENTIST
Find More Member Profiles | Get Your R/C Profile Started Now!   


mad web tv scientist
Salem , OR
June 2006
Basic
ELECTRIC FLIGHT | AIRPLANES
None
16938
Send a Private Message to this Member Add this member to your Private Message address book  


Airplanes | Helicopters
Airplanes
 
ParkZone Spitfire Mk IIB 
Electric Powered Non-Electric Powered
ENGINE: Everything is stock except batteries.
BATTERY: Two (2) to three and one half (3.5) ounce 7.4 volt LiPo batteries
MODIFICATIONS: Carbon fiber tow material glued in strategic areas with CA glue and baking soda makes the Spitfire a significantly stronger airplane for sustainble aerobatic maneubers. 20 ounces complete with a 1.8 ounce 1000 mAh battery can be attained with a little careful work. This airplane is the perfect warbird for me. 5/9/08 Mine can fly a lot like a "motor powered glider."

 
  This product's member rating when new (24 Reviews):

Get More Product Details or Rate it Now!

FlyZone Piper J-3 Cub RTF 
Electric Powered Non-Electric Powered
ENGINE: stock everything except wheels
BATTERY: 1.5 - 2 ounce LiPos and stock battery
MODIFICATIONS: My new J-3 Cub is ready for its very first powered flight. With a 1.5 ounce Lipo battery the Cub can be hand launched for a gliding flight that is almost half as long as that of my motor powered Park Flyer gliders. Being totally inexperienced with using my left hand to operate a rudder control I was unable to get my hand on the transmitter quick enough to test rudder and elevator/ailerons on the same hand launched gliding flight. A few right hand launches demonstrated some rudder side slip behavior and the ability of the Cub to sustain some fairly hard "landings" (?). I need some training under power at altitude to get used to left handed rudder operation. To solve the "strut problem" two wire "loops" were bent around and taped on the wing tips. A string was then connected to both wing tip wire supports and twisted by a lever near the center of the string. An iron on low heat was then used to help "iron in" slightly higher than stock dihedral. A small amount of carbon fiber "tow" was glued on the wing to reinforce possible stress points. The struts were then positioned on the wing to look straight. My wing ended up having a little less dihedral than stock as a result of working a warp out that had accidentally formed. That's okay in my case since I plan to do a lot of aerobatics that is made possible by up to a quarter pound of saved battery weight over the stock condition. Ailerons required some work around the horns and bushing areas in order to get plenty of useful deflection angles. 1/4 inch seems like a nice starting point in my particular case. Both ailerons were adjusted with a small amount of "up deflection" angle which will be trimmed after powered flight tests. Elevator and and rudder are both set at maximun deflection angles. Both propellers were balanced using Top Flight's magnetic balancer. An additional 3mm x 3 Dubro Socket Set Screw was added to the prop adapter and a "thread lock" product was used on the set screws to prevent any prop loss. The plane will be equipped with a "steerable" tail wheel made by either modifying the stock tail wheel system or scratch building a whole new system using a rubber "O" ring for a tire on a balsa hub. Recess holes were cut on the bottom side of the fuselage between the wing and the stab and covered with low temperature film. This made it possible to to enjoy an adequately far enough forward CG location for good stability. The stock wheels look great to me but I want to maximize grass handling so 2" dia. thin "Lectral Lite Flight Wheels" will be used after they have been modified to be even lighter and more streamlined. A "ram air" aluminum tube was added to blow air directly on the back vent system of the motor without spoiling the scale looks - it's just part of a special "carburetor." Material in the battery compartment was removed to provide space for up to a 1000mAh Lipo battery that weighs almost 2 ounces. If the plane will do everything I want it to do with the lighter batteries I will create more space for larger LiPo batteries. Yes, just for fun I will fly the J-3 with the stock battery at least occasionally in order to appreciate my LiPos. I really like this plane and plan to fly it a lot - second only to motor powered gliders that are so beautiful in thermals. March 27,'08 This plane is perfect for my scale Piper Cub purposes. 5/9/08

 
  This product's member rating when new (4 Reviews):

Get More Product Details or Rate it Now!

Air Hogs Rolling Fury 
Electric Powered Non-Electric Powered
MODIFICATIONS: Air Hogs Rolling Fury has been slightly modified by adding "soda can aluminum" trim tabs to the outer portions of the horizontal stabilizer. The included thread url brings up my preliminary flight/structural performance observations on post number 29 and 31 of the "what plane should I get" thread. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7088706/anchors_7203883/mpage_2/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7203883 (I found that it was necessary to "cut and paste" the above url into a message to myself and then click on the url to bring up the thread. The most important modification is to "bend the wings" until the plane will fly straight regardless how hard it is thrown into the wind. At this point te plane is nicely controlable in mild weather and can sometimes fly well in surprisingly strong winds.

 
  This product's member rating when new (1 Review):

Get More Product Details or Rate it Now!

Accipiter Badius  
Electric Powered Non-Electric Powered
MODEL Accipiter Badius
RECEIVER: stock
SERVO: stock
SERVO2: stock
TRANSMITTER: stock
BATTERY: ElectriFly 7-cell 650mAh NiMH and an assortment of other 900mAh, 1100mAh, and 1200mAh NiMHs
ESC: stock
PROP: stock
MODIFICATIONS: Shock absorbing motor mount and "O" ring behind the spinner is being used to minimize crash damage (my report on the MINI VENTURA describes the principles that I am working on with the AB), slats near wing tips to enhance low speed maneuverability (not used on the polyhedral "folded wing"- a "flaperon" system used only on the center section of the wing works very well on the polyhedral wing - see strip aileron technology below to understand how this system works ) with small music wire skids to help protect the ten (10) square inch area slats (5 square inches per slat - reduced the area of the slats to 7.5 square inches) on rough landings, music wire skid near nose and one on the tail helps protect the airframe on some hard landings. Also added motor cooling vent holes around the motor. [After "upgrading" to a 1100mAh battery I added a "ram air" cooling tube for the back of the motor to prevent any more destroyed rear bushings. I also either fly another plane or do a lot of hand launch gliding before putting up another powered flight. In hot weather I also alternate using a smaller battery every other flight.] Doubled the rudder area and added a single "strip" 12 square inch aileron to the right side of the wing and a fixed "flap" to the left side of the wing. A simple bellcrank and pushrods system is connected to the rudder servo. The "pushrods" control system has been replaced with a "pull/pull" system. This has helped to move the center of gravity closer to the' 8 7/8 inch point behind the tip of the prop spinner recommended by the "Badius Owners Club." A "straight wing" was built with double the dihedral angle of the stock wing reinforced with carbon fiber and fiberglass "strapping tape." It also has a lot of washout "ironed" into the tips (5 degrees). The wing tips were pulled up by using bent wire "hooks" and a string that was tightened to pull in the desirable amount of dihedral angle based on the amount of angle used in the polyhedral wing that works so well. All three different wings work well with a single aileron. Twelve (12) to sixteen (16) square inches of aileron area with plus/minus 10-12 degrees of deflection angle works well with a double size from stock area rudder swinging plus/minus 40 degrees degrees for the kind of slow speed maneuvering I enjoy. My latest modification uses a stock wing with a "strip" aileron system and is scary to fly. 12/09/06- By installing new effecient hinges and new lighter balsa wood rudder and elevator, my "straight wing" with a single aileron "gang-tuned" to my rudder servo now works perfectly. Convincing rolls and spins are very practical now. Flying in any wind condition that allows forward progress when flown into the wind is now "reasonably practical." However, mild weather conditions are still the most enjoyable. PLEASE CHECK OUT THE "ROLLING FURY" INFORMATION ABOVE TO SEE UPDATED INFO ON THE ACCIPITER BADIUS.


Air Hogs Aero Ace 
Electric Powered Non-Electric Powered
BATTERY: STOCK
ESC: STOCK
PROP: STOCK
MODIFICATIONS: It was very useful to cut a motor partially loose from the wing and glue it back so that the thrust lines of both motors are identical with a little bit of "upthrust" to compensate for the high placement of the motors. One of my Aero Aces required me to adjust both motors thrust lines in order to achieve optimum performance.

 
  This product's member rating when new (20 Reviews):

Get More Product Details or Rate it Now!

Hobbico Mini Ventura EP RTF 
Electric Powered Non-Electric Powered
RECEIVER: stock
SERVO: stock
SERVO2: stock
TRANSMITTER: stock
BATTERY: stock
ESC: stock
PROP: stock
MODIFICATIONS: I am going to add "slats" (06/06/06) near the wing tips to see if I can "cure" my problem of tip stalling and crashing instead of turning like I want the MV to do. I tend to try to fly too slow and low so my problem is obvious. When I flew on a larger field than I usually fly on there were very few problems, especially when flying higher and faster. 6/23/06 - Too windy for me to tell for sure if the slats are useful today. Did a battery charging test and found that the forty (40) minute charge is just right. I installed an amp-meter in series with the stock 600ma battery that had been completly discharged earlier in the day. The beginning current read .78A. As usual, there was no unusual warming of the battery as I recorded the Amps at various points during the charging session. At the very end of the charging session the Amps had dropped to .6A. The Mini Ventura video is wrong about how to properly charge the battery. By fully charging the battery and running a motor that has not been damaged by "too many one point landings" 13k plus rpms are normal on the stock prop and motor (I balance as well as smooth up the center section of my props). 6/24/06 - Spent a few hours perfecting left hand hand launching of my MV as a glider while keeping my right thumb on the control stick thus controlling flight from the instant of launch. A strap was added to the transmitter to keep from dropping it during hand launches. I taped a carved streamlined chunk of flexible styrofoam to the nose in the place of the prop. Toward the end of the daylight the wind speed finally dropped down to a speed where I could have handled motor power but I did not want to lose my plane again in the failing light so I continued to enjoy left hand hand launching and gliding over one hundred (100) feet on good launches! I am still not sure if the added slats are doing what I need yet. Trim adjustments are different and I found it necessary to increase rudder deflection angles. Having actually successfully flown a "lazy eight" over my small flying sight with the MV I am determined to do whatever it takes to eventually become "reasonably proficient" with my Park Flyers at this site. More later after I get brave enough to really get serious about flying! 6/26/06 - Yes, the slats have tamed my MV down to my current preferences. More flying is needed to confirm the optimum slat area. Used a digital Amp meter and observed charge rates that read a little higher than my earlier (reported above) analog readings. The average charge seems to be very close to .66A on all three of my MV batteries. Theoretically, I would have to charge a fully dead 600ma battery 54 minutes to get a full charge. It turns out that left hand hand launches need to be practiced with the motor running for short hops. I found that for "normal maneuvering powered flight" left hand hand launching was very disconcerting. All that left hand hand launch gliding mentioned above did not seem to help a bit. I need lots of flight training in order to get my emotional reactions to R/C flying in harmony with reality! 7/03/06 - My "shock absorbing motor mount" system that protects the motor and provides some crash protection for the rest of the plane as well, uses two (2) 2mm x 10 Socket Head Cap Screws by DUBRO. These screws had a 2mm Hex Nut screwed on them to help straighten out the threads after cutting the screws to the right length. They were cut and filed to a length that just allows the prop spinner to contact the plumbing-store-bought rubber "O" ring glued to the front of the plane without touching the screw heads. Flexible fuel line tubing was cut to a length that loosely fills the gap between the mounting screw washers and the front of the motor mount. The result of all of this is that there is a significant cushion effect in the event of a crash that should help make my new motors last a lot longer than the ones that have been crashing into the ground without this protection. I plan to use this same type of shock absorbing system on all of my fragile electric motor powered airplanes. 10/01/06 - Evidently the "shock absorbing motor mount" system on the Mini Ventra needs some "refinement." I noticed an unexplained slowing of the motor during flight and foolishly continued to try to fly not realizing that I was burning out the ESC. The receiver stopped working also. I now plan to order two new receivers and ESCs for the two unflyable Mini Ventuas that I now own. With the single flaparon system (plus/minus approximately 5 degrees) I have installed on a stock wing that has been modified with a few degrees of extra washout (no slats on this wing) and about 30 percent greater dihedral than stock the little ship is really fun to fly with plenty of maneuverability. The system is a scaled down version of what was done to the Accipiter Badius.

 
  This product's member rating when new (3 Reviews):

Get More Product Details or Rate it Now!

FlyZone Aero Voyager RTF 
Electric Powered Non-Electric Powered
RECEIVER: stock
SERVO: stock
SERVO2: stock
TRANSMITTER: stock
BATTERY: stock
ESC: stock
PROP: stock
MODIFICATIONS: Used carbon fiber reinforcement on repaired motor pods, reinforced bottom of wing front and back with balsa wood to prevent crushing of the weak plastic covering in the wing saddle area. Fiberglass tape is used to reinforce the leading and trailing edges of the wing and the center section of the ruddervators. Crash damage to stock servos made it useful to use "velcro" to secure the servos.

 
  This product's member rating when new (3 Reviews):

Get More Product Details or Rate it Now!

Showing Models No. 1-7 of 7
  Page: 1    




 
RCUniverse is a service of Internet Brands, Inc. Copyright © 2001-2014.
Terms of Service | Privacy Policy
 
GET FREE RC CONTENT FOR YOUR WEBSITE

Search | Marketplace | Event Central | Local Clubs | Magazine | Product Ratings | New Products | Discussion Forums

Photo Gallery | Instructor Search | Field|Track|Marina Search | RCU Youtube Channel | | RCU Twitter!

Member Locator | Advertisers | Hobby Vendor Resources | Rate Manufacturers | Sign In/Sign Up

Products Videos WattFlyer.com RC Classifieds

RCU4 | 54.211.50.5 | 0 | 1 | 10:01:32 PM EST | NC