combatpigg

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This is the plane I used to get acquainted with running high performance .049s in a RC plane.

It is made entirely out of 3/8" x 3/8" balsa sticks. Use hard balsa for the leading edges and the main spar, but use medium for the trailing edge and the ribs.

The wing doesn't have an airfoil, but I shaved it in the back to make it flow / taper smoothly into 1/8" thick elevon flaps.

This plane will put a smile on your face, even though it looks like it's too big for a .049 engine to manhandle. It is very easy to launch and it lands / glides very slowly before touch down.

I don't recommend doing the servos like I did here. They should be mounted out in the wing panels and you should use the middle hole or the inner hole on the servo arms to drive the pushrods.

Neat thing about this design is that it does not rely on any SpaceAge or exotic materials...it's just mostly a small pile of 3/8" square balsa sticks.

I used to take MAS 6x4s and chop them down to 4.2 inches and run them like that on my Fora .049

danilo-2

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OK... so far so good :-)
erm what 's the hole in the front for?

combatpigg

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That's the opening for the bladder compartment.

vicman

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Speed Trainer...now thats funny.

Whats up with the clean corner in the shop???

vicman

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What was wrong with the servo hook-up? It looks pretty clean to me.

combatpigg

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Hey Vic...!

I converted about a 1/3 of that barn to a liveable office space. I even made a wood burning stove for back up heat. Then built a seperate garbage can room outside the building so no more stinking cans in the shop any more......!!!!

Those servo arms barely stick out of the fuselage far enough to use the outer holes of the servo arms. Back when I used a 2 channel radio, this made the set up too sensitive with no servo travel adjustment or expo. Even with a modern radio, it's better to have the servo linkage set for it's natural range of motion, but limit the elevon throw to no more than 3/16" up and 3/16" down. 3/16" control surface movement would still be pretty twitchy for a newbie at full speed.

cutaway

I think it needs a Profi .15 ;->

combatpigg

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This is a good size for a .12 or a .15. Set it up so that the prop just clears the front of the triangle. You can get really creative with these planes and do little things to make them look "Space Age".

Max_Power

Good timing on this CP! Thanks!! So what is the inside of the bladder compartment lined with to keep it from abrading the bladder? To be honest of all the models I've had over the years I've never had a wing or delta. Do they fly like normal models for the most part? Thanks again, Todd

combatpigg

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The inside of the balsa compartment is flooded with thin epoxy [like West Systems] or you can use thicker epoxy that has a couple drops of alcohol in it. Too much alky curdles the epoxy, so just a couple drops and use epoxy that has been warmed up. The epoxy can raise the grain and cause stipples that you can't do much about, but you can "carpet" the interior of the fuel cell with velcro, or thin slices of soft foam padding.
Wings / deltas fly by the same rules as any other plane. The deltas are naturally fast rollers, so go easy on your control throws for banking. The CG is usually set at 15% MAC instead of 25% for conventional planes. The flyable CG range is narrower, but light wing loadings widen that band just like any other plane.
A little trick to seal the iron on covering to the fuel cell opening is to mix a small batch of 5 minute epoxy and throw in a tiny speck of lightweight spackle. It acts like a thickener and causes the epoxy to form a nice smooth, rounded lip at the edge of the opening.

combatpigg

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I failed to mention that this plane uses HS-81 servos....possibly even the metal geared ones. There is so much wing area and the plane is so easy to build light that splurging on the safety / ruggedness of those servos seemed to make sense.
I'm thinking about cleaning it up and getting it ready for a short video, it's been ages since it's been flown.

forsakenrider

DO it CP, you've got us all watching now!

combatpigg

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It's so much work to find a rag and some cleaning solvent....plus finding the energy to mount the engine and charge up a battery.

Not sure if I'm up to it, might have to take this project on in stages..

forsakenrider

It might be more of your style just to build a new one eh

Andrew

CP's build threads usually last 4 to 8 hours.

I've said it before, he's got a legion of wood nymphs at his disposal up there in the far north. I think he keeps them in his barn and turns them loose when he wants a new plane.

Max_Power

So I've gathered up a few sticks of 3/8 from my bin, but honestly think for the few cents they cost I will go pick up some that are a bit nicer looking(and straighter) tomorrow. Would you build it different for a .10-.15? Or would it be a good model to swap engines around on for "Testing"? As far as the Fora/Cyclon engines go...Can someone give me a better explanation of a "flood off" and how it is operated? And can I be sure that a flood off is a flood off and not a pressure fitting like a TD has? (Repeat to self: there are no stupid questions, only stupid mistakes) LOL Todd

combatpigg

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If I was building it for a .15 I'd use the same overhead view but would place the firewall so that the prop just barely cleared the front of the wing.
The plane would get a spruce spar instead of hard balsa...maybe 1/4" x 3/8".
You might run into trouble with the flat plate airfoil if the wingloading exceeds a certain amount...this is something I don't know about. I got away with it as a 1/2A plane.
It's not that difficult to do the airframe like a mini Screamin Demon or Diamond Dust with at least some sort of an airfoil. The plane I built in the ASP .12 thread ended up flying pretty good.... you can review the photos in that thread for ideas.

skaliwag

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What kind of "Speed Brew" is in the glass?

combatpigg

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It looks like a homebrewed stout, but I'm not sure........

skaliwag

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Resembles something that the local folk of the N/West would use to keep their personal glow plug alight around Yule time.

combatpigg

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The best kept secret in the NW used to be Widmers KGB Russian Imperial Stout. Something like 9.5% and the stores were selling it for the same price as 6% beer.

Todd, I don't know exactly how they do a flood off. I've never messed with any type of a shut-off with 1/2A engines, but it could be a good idea on a plane that has the room and enough wing to handle whatever the weight penalty is.
If it is something that interferes with a cowled in engine then I'd have no use for it.

Max_Power

I kinda dug around for info on "Flood Off", but couldn't find much. Christmas came early as the wife is heading to see family, but I have to stay behind and finish some work. Under the tree for me was a cute little 2011 Model Fora 1cc. A few slight changes from the older model. I'm guessing I can just block off this second fitting that I'm assuming is a flood off? Todd

aspeed

For the flood off fitting I would just leave it. more air can come in and it won't hurt.  You aren't idling it.  Check the free flight sites for how they are used. Maybe Texas Timers.  I would just use a pinch off from a servo to shut it off myself. Santa must love you more than me.

combatpigg

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That little nipple could come in handy someday.....[8D]

ProBroJoe