Mr Cox

That's a real Franken engine you've got there though, I wonder how big a series that was. They must have had some special application in mind, an ABC engine without schneurle porting so that it could be run in old-school races without braking any rules...

GallopingGhostler

I bought 2 of the ABC 099S-II RC engines in 1980's, on clearance at Hobby Shack's showroom warehouse in Fountain Valley, California. I think I paid $5 each, an almost give away price. They weren't discounting the 099SR though. As you see, the 099S-II engines were not in high demand. My thoughts are the Fuji company executives misjudged the preference of modelers. Hobby Shack discontinued the Fuji engines when they introduced the Taiwanese Magnum series engines. The Fuji glow engine legacy came to a close.

Their value? Since they are ABC, they break in quicker than the older iron piston in a steel sleeve engine. They produce about the same power as the Enya .09-III TV engine. With lower compression of 5.5:1, they should be able to swing larger low pitched props easily without overheating. Being heavier, I am targeting mine for the old lightweight Texaco-like free flight airplanes of the 1940's and 1950's that used smaller displacement ignition engines (say, .19) of up to 55 inches (1400 mm) wingspan.

steve111

As a rule, I'd agree with the advice not to dismantle the engine unnecessarily. One exception, though, is that I think it's worth checking that the wristpin isn't gummed onto the conrod. This can often happen with engines that have sat around for a long time after having been run with castor, and is bad news for engines. You will need to remove the front housing, and then check that the rod can slide back and forward on the wristpin. There is a risk of damaging the front housing gasket when you do this, but you can minimise this by gently rotating the front housing back and forth after removing the screws, rather than just pulling it off.

gcb

There is a point that too much lube will decrease performance. Many tend to run their engine too lean when that happens.

I would suggest 20% lube, at least half castor. The Cox engines need 10% or more nitro to needle well. Since the Fuji runs a low compression ratio, 10% should work there too.

The important thing is to adjust nitro for the prop you are using and to learn to adjust the needle well without running too lean. For whatever installation you are using, start with a rich setting and move up to peak. Realize that the larger the prop, the more it will unload in the air.

That said, I do not have a Fuji engine. This is just general information. Good luck with it.

George

GallopingGhostler

George, that is so true. Today I was running my Enya .09-III TV to continue to break it in. On that engine, the difference between peak and off-peak is only one click, which surprised me. Nonetheless, it is now beginning to be able to hold a solid 2 cycle without sagging. So far, it will only run on a 7x4 prop, and the thinner the better. It was most happy with an older Top Flite 7x4 nylon.

I have an extra Tatone EM-4 Calumet muffler that I am going to clean up to fit it. Since it is a left hand exhaust, the muffler will be mounted upside down, but that shouldn't be a problem. I'll do the same treatment I did with the other, except I won't be converting it to a tongue muffler.

I think with all the internal baffling removed it should be free flowing enough for the .09 to cut the bark and keep it from overheating. It was too small to function effectively on .19 sized engines (although it states for .09 - .19).

GallopingGhostler

Excellent advice, Steve.

I've bought several used engines off E-Bay that were gummed up. I disassembled them and did a little soaking in lacquer thinner to remove the congealed Castor oil, clean exterior with a gentle brushing then oiled and reassembled them. Interestingly enough on several, I found that someone had briefly run them but they weren't completely broken in yet. I have several "new" low time engines (Testors McCoy .19 Red Head, Enya .19-VI TV, Enya .09-III TV, OS Max.10R/C). The McCoy .19 still had the original honing marks, chips in the red paint and exterior filth appeared to be tool drawer wear and tear. I gained a new condition engine for a song. [8D]

The only one I lost the gasket on was the OS Max. It was truly gummed up with Castor oil. I wasn't able to remove the cylinder liner, will probably have to put it in boiling water for a bit to soften the Castor oil bind to remove it, but that will come later. I used Permatex Ultra Gray RTV as gasket material for the backplate gasket and that did the trick.

Dan Vincent

I have four different Fuji .099 engines from that period. All are RC with carb & Muffler.

.099 S-II IBS Blackhead SN 01150 Steel Liner It has S-II on the case but IBS on the box. Inner Bypass Schneurle from around 1978
.099 S-II SN 32975 Steel Liner
.099 SR Steel Liner, no SN
.099 SR Brass Liner, no SN

GallopingGhostler

Dan, I'd be curious to know if when you remove the head, if the piston has a baffle ridge on top of it. Also if the brass cylinder sleeve bottom has 2 bypass flutes cut into it same size same length directly opposite the exhaust cut out (see picture in my previous post), then it does not have Schneurle porting.

Also, if your instructions show it as having Max HP of 0.22 (CL) and 0.16 (RC), these values correspond closely to the Enya .09 cross scavenged baffle piston engines. My instructions that came with mine are titled, Fuji High Performance - Easy Starting Glow Model Engines I.B.S. Inner Bypass Schneurle". The instructions are somewhat deceptive, my .099S-II's are definitely not Schneurle ported.

The 27% more powerful .099SR is the Schneurle ported IBS .099 engine. Its power is a wee bit more than the OS Max10LA engine.

mick1404

oh well, thanks anyway mate, running itwithout a muffler should be ok, it would be nice to have a 100% complete engine butit cost me nothing.
Thanks again

Dan Vincent

Only my S-II with steel cylinder liner has the baffled piston. The other three engines all have flat-top pistons.

The S-II steel cylinder engine is also missing the dimple on the rear that you can drill & tap for pressure. The other three have the dimple.

GallopingGhostler

Then, Dan, the anodized black head 099S-II you've got must be a rare one. I thought my ABC machined aluminum head baffle piston cross scavenged ones were rare. The ones I have are Serial# 0402 and 0622, so they are in between yours of Serial# 01150.

The Fuji specs with mine state, 099S-II, Bore x Stroke 12.7 x 12.7 mm, cc 1.60, Compression Ratio 5.5:1, Max Power (HP) Std 0.22 RC 0.16

In the black head version it went IBS, just curios, but what are the horsepower given, and is there any other differences from the baffle piston cross scavenged 099S-II?

Dan Vincent

George, my engine boxes are stored in another location so I don't have ready access to the paperwork.

As I remember it, the Fuji 1BS blackhead .09 came out around 1978 so Fuji would have an engine to match up with the OS SR .10 Supertigre bluehead X11 and Webra Speedy 1.8cc engines which were all schnerule-ported.

The S-II IBS blackhead engine is fairly rare as it was a stop-gap until Fuji made their SR series.

I was very interested in these engines at the time as I was trying to drum up interest in a Formula-10 racing class.

.

GallopingGhostler

Then Dan, you have a bit of history that even one prolific historian lacks on the Fuji 099 series. According to the literature I received with my engines, the last of the series as the 099SR is actually .11 ci in displacement. I'm not sure why Fuji never relabeled them, instead understating its size.

Regardless, I am happy with my purchase of these ABC engines with the older cross scavenge technology, as my application is with vintage aircraft, which the lower compression and ability to comfortably swing larger props albeit at slightly slower RPM come into play.

mick1404

I'm so glad there is so many people that have extensive knowledge on not  only on the Fuji .099, but by the sounds of it any engine, especially the small ones. I am glad that I have a piece of modelling history in my possession, a big thank you to you all and I know who to ask regarding any queries on any engine, rare or common.
thanks again guys!!!!

JMP_blackfoot

My old Fuji .099S fitted with an Enya .09 carb. I do not remember the year it was bought, but would guess around 1967-68.
Also a page from a later Fuji catalogue.

GallopingGhostler

It is interesting JMP_blackfoot that your earlier .099S has an Enya carburetor substituted, which seems to fit like it is made for it. I think the Enya carburetor is better than the Fuji ones. Speaking of Enya, during disassembly of an early Enya .09 left hand exhaust engine, I noticed the steel cylinder liner was identical in appearance to the one in my Fuji .099S-II ABC down to the dimensions, thickness and cut bypass flutes. I gather the Fuji is more or less a copy of the Enya.

Schu

My Feedback: (5)

Mick,
I have a old .99 Fuji - more of a parts engine - and I might still have a carb and muffler that might fit yours ( I don't throw out much stuff ) - your welcome to it if I can locate for shipping costs.
I do have a old Frog that I need a needle valve and seat( shaft ? ) for to make it a runner - let me know if anyone has an extra.
Dale

mick1404

I just ran my Fuji .099 after a clean and a rebuild, after talking to my mate that a got it from claims he hasn't seen it run since he was in his teens. Engine ran like a dream, didn't miss a beat after sitting 20 odd years in a garage. Absolutely happy and pleased!!! I would love to get hold of an R/C carburettor for it as I would like it to tick over instead of revving its head off. So does anyone have any ideas which carby would suit as I'm not too sure about the availability of an Enya carb. Also does anyone have any ideas of atype of model that would suit a Fuji .099? A biplane perhaps?

gene6029

I found this amongst my collection after reading this thread. Looks like an 099SR S-II ser# 08634.....Gene

GallopingGhostler

Here's a few bipes for starters:

Ace 34" span Allstar Bipe:

[link]http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=1355[/link]



Sig 34" span Aerobipe:

[link]http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=4092[/link]



Ken Willard's 38" span Breezy:

[link]http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=582[/link]

mick1404

Nice, I love the Aerobipe, I gotta get my other building projects finished soon, I have so many 'to do' on my list. Thanks Galloping Ghostler!!!

GallopingGhostler

You're welcome, mick1404. I've got a similar plane in the mix after I get out the cache of ones I'm building. It is the 36" span Airtronics Gere Sport bipe by the late Lee Renaud, designer of the Q-Tee and S-Tee.