A. J. Clark

Just finished the Weekend Wonder. This is the second one I have built. The first I built several years back
crashed on the first flight. Later I pick up another Ace Foam wing. Decided I wanted to built something, which I haven't
done for a while. Took the tail from the first one and put it with the new wing and new fuse. Gone to give it another try.

Pond Skipper

Nice work we hope you post a vid if possible. = ) Is that a Tornado / Grish 5 x 4 prop?
It appears you may have fueled proofed the wood what did you use?
What was the all up dry weight?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Good luck with it and have a great time..!

A. J. Clark

The prop is a tornado 5x3. I hope that's a good choice it was with the engine when I got it out so I just put it on.
I put a couple coats of balsarite on for fuel proof. It weighed in at 14.5 oz.

Pond Skipper

I wonder how much nitro balsarite can handle most fuel proof paint is good to about 15% nitro.

A. J. Clark

Balsarite is all I've ever used. It's always worked good. I hope all the nitro burns.

Pond Skipper

Sometimes when I am filling the tank up with 25% nitro mix I get a little splatter so I keep a rag on hand.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

[QUOTE=............... I put a couple coats of balsarite on for fuel proof..[/QUOTE]

I like this...!
It doesn't get gooooooey or gummy at all...?

A. J. Clark

That's right no I like it for fuel proofing and to help hold down covering. I use it on the firewall,
around the nose, where the fuel tank is going to go, and on any hard wood where
covering is put on. If your going to use strictly to hold covering you shouldn't let
it dry for a long period of time before the covering is put on.

I've tried epoxy on the firewall and in the tank area. I didn't like working with the epoxy.
I thought the balsarite is much easier to put on. It doesn't get hard as epoxy but it does the job.

Pond Skipper

I have used balsarite back in the day and sorghum's. A few weeks ago I bought a can of Coverites film formula balsa conditioner an 8oz can but doesn't make note of nitro resistance just protection from fuel seepage.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

I would recommend that for any solvent based fuel proofing you should assume "resistance to fuel up to 15% nitro". Nitromethane is a potent solvent, and admixed with methanol doesn't help.

Crosslinked systems such as epoxy, vinylester, polyester ("fiberglass resin"), or two part PU's are heads above in terms of resistance. For absolute resistance (and ready availability) thinned or low viscosity (heat helps) epoxy would rate #1 to me, followed by the others, then several rungs down the ladder, maybe 2-3 floors down, comes everything solvent based, starting with those that claim fuel resistance down to those that do not.

A. J. Clark

I didn't find anything on the balsarite can that referenced nitro directly.

Under the instructions it claims to create a fuel proof surface.

I also like to thin it down quite a bit. Makes it brush on a lot easier.

There used to be one for film and fabric. Now I only see the film type.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

If you are as lackadaisical as I am about cleaning planes after a gooey session with a TD .049, none of those spray can type "fuel proof" paints worked at all.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

BINGO!

Unless you're sensitized to it, why not just use epoxy.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Well, the idea that you can brush on 2 coats of Balsarite and come away with a light, fast finish that is at least "wipeable" appeals to me for certain projects. I've got to say that every balsa plane I painted without having tissue underneath ended up with cracks and splits over time.

Pond Skipper

I in the late 80's early 90's I would use spray epoxy paint made to fix stoves and kitchen appliances. It is the only spray paint that ever held up to 40% nitro use with my scratch built hydro and mono boats back then you could only get it in white and cream - I imagine by now you can get other colors two coats and done with proper prep. Sprays smooth and even yet a thicker robust layer then typical enamel paints.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I remember now..cans of spray epoxy called Zynolite or something like it. I used it for interior house trim with good results.
I just got done derusting and painting the inside of a microwave oven with mail order "microwave paint" It was in real bad shape where the wheels rub against the metal pan. So far, so good. I was leery about eating any food that it cooked until all traces of the paint smell were gone. It took about 3 weeks to totally cure. Definitely not epoxy.

Pond Skipper

The epoxy paint as I recall was an overnight cure then you could handle with care .. one more night and was good to go for gear installation.

aspeed

We can still get the tub and tile epoxy paint. The shelf life of the part A colored part has a shorter shelf life than the hardener. It is not in a spray can though. The brand we have around here is Klenks, and there is a good epoxy thinner too. It seems pretty close to the old Hobbypoxy that was made by Pettit. I have tried a two part epoxy floor paint that is water soluble on a foam flutterboard/airboat? that seems fuelproof, maybe a bit heavy the way I did it with too thick of a cloth. It did not attack the foam anyway. It sure is an ugly cream colour that the floor is. I think any automotive two part paint will be fuel proof though, in any case, just test it on something first. Just to keep on topic, the "Weekend Wonder" looks similar to the "Das Wunder"

Pond Skipper

I place the plastic bottles in hot water then mix.
The slow cure stays nice and runny long enough to brush on an entire fuselage.

hfenn

They're not supposed to last that long

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Hollis, if you're cracking jokes, hopefully you're doing OK now...?
Funny you should mention this, because the 1/2 A combat planes that had the noses finished this way have been glued back together so many times they look like tile mosaics.

ffkiwi

i've used Epiglass 'Reaction Lacquer' in the past-this is an International Paints 2 part PU intended for boat work-but absolutely fuelproof-I have fuselages that are 30+ years old still good after regular 30-50% nitro usage. Not cheap though-and the hardener goes hard in the can at the slightest provocation-and its heavy (at least when brushed)-I never had the equipment to spray it back in the 80s. Smells vile too when you mix it up-isocyanates and other nasties in it-but if you want absolute fuel proof surfaces it certainly does the job.....and this was just on tissue covered, nitrate doped sheet fuselages. I'm in the process of resurrecting a couple of cans to do a C/L trainer...

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

hfenn

Hi CP, Thanks for remembering! Scans at end of January were great. Other than losing sight in the left eye, I'm doing well and plan to attend SMALL at Little Rock first weekend of June. Kind regards, Hollis

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I'm sorry to hear about your eye but I'm real happy to hear that you're not letting that keep you from having fun. Have fun at SMALL and foul the air as much as possible with 50% castor fuel and don't forget to step on as many electric ARFs as possible..!