meowy84

Hello. Just got another cox .049 reedie from ebay and this one (unlike my other ones) does not have a provision at the top of the cylinder for the wrench to go. So how the heck can I unscrew the cylinder?

Also, there's a tiny steel mesh around the outside of the cylinder. Anyone know the purpose of this? I doubt it's for sound muffling so could it be for the messy oil reedies spit out? If so than I don't see how it would do much good except to atomize the spit into a finer spray.

Lynn S

How about a flat wood stick through the exhaust ports?
The screen is probably to prevent a fuel fire. I heard that is what the slits are for on some engines. They do catch on fire, ask my neighbor.

bigchap

you have a #191 product engine,the mesh was put on to prevent people getting burnt fingers when applying the glow clip after over-priming,a good way to unscrew the cylinder is to clamp it in a vice between 2 pieces of soft wood and turn,it sounds heath-robinson but works fine.

Big Al-RCU

And if you resort (heaven forbid) to the channel locks, PLEASE wrap the cylinder with three or four turns of masking tape first!
al

DICKEYBIRD

I lay the wrench on top of the cyl., scribe 2 lines and cut the flats with the thin cut-off wheel in my Dremel. Take less time to just do it than to agonize over other methods. It also helps to have a GOOD wrench. Buy a thin 5/8" wrench (spanner eh Steve?) and grind it down to the correct thickness. VERY much worth the time if you mess with many Cox engines.

mclintock

My Feedback: (3)

rubber strap wrench
2$ or less at places who sell chinese tools.. also wal-mart I think. Sometimes in a pack of two. The guys on 'American Chopper' use them to hold the stanctions in the triple-trees without marring the chrome while the top bolts are being tightned, so they must be cool.
Great around the house. No pickle jar is safe now. - not that that was a problem before or anything--huff* grunt* arg.

meowy84

A #191 eh? Simpson eh? heh heh Good to know. I guess there's a sh** load of different reedies because I now have ones with the wrench provision and with big exhaust slit, without the provision and with big exhaust slit and with the wrench provision and twin slits I think.

Anyways, thanks for the info guys. I'm not crazy about that mesh/screen though.

Andrew

Peel it off -- it's just spotwelded on. Just lift the end and unwrap it around the cylinder.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Just a standard pair of pliers has round enough jaws to do the trick. I have ruined a few liners years ago by sticking foreign objects[ like a COX wrench] into the exhaust ports. A few jaw marks in the cooling fins never stopped me from having a good time with a working engine!

Tim Wiltse-RCU

No.1. A two bypass cylinder with a large exhaust port that permitted sub-piston induction. It was originally made for the 290 and 291 series engines that were used in plastic cars later. it was used in the first Black Widow engines. At that time the top cylinder fin was not milled to accommodate a maintenance
wrench. Subsequently, the Black Widow I cylinder had two narrow slits for each I exhaust, and the top fin was milled. but I the cylinder was not numbered in this I configuration.
No.2. This denoted a single bypass. sub-piston induction cylinder. The top fin was not milled. This type was used on the Golden Bee, however, the cylinders were not always numbered.
No.3. A two bypass cylinder that initially did not have the bottom of the exhaust ports milled low enough to pro-
vide sub-piston induction. Later, the exhaust milling permitted sub-piston induction, and the outside was ground for use with an exhaust-restrictor type throttle, and the top fin was milled.
No.4. This was made for T.D. .049 engine. There are two bypasses, each with three separate milling cuts. and the bore is tapered. The exhausts allow sub- piston induction and the top fin is milled.
No.5. This has the same features as number 4, however. the bore is .410
inches. It is used on the T.D. .051.
No.6. Twin bypass, no sub-piston induction. and milled top fin. Some were externally ground for restrictor throttles.
No.7. The same as number2, but wiith a milled top fin.
No.8. Single bypass. narrow exhaust. no sub-piston induction. Top fin not
milled. Used in cars.
No.9. Unfortunately, I do not have samples of this cylinder. My only information is that it was only in very limited production.
No.0. Again. I have no samples, but it reputedly is the same as number 6.

jboy381-RCU

the open ports are stronger than the split ports...

john

Big Al-RCU

Tim, thanks for that good rundown on cox cylinders. I have one that doesn't make any sense to me, maybe someone can explain. It is marked 'P40' in two places, (under both exhaust ports). It seems to be identical to a No. 1. I don't have one marked as No. 1, but do have a Golden Bee with a No. 2 cylinder and it is identical in every way except for the second bypass port. That is, it is thin wall, no wrench flat, wide exhaust port, (approx 0.113) and the bypass ports are the single pass milled version. I am guessing that it was originally supplied on a plastic P40 plane? Did cox ever make such a plane? But even if so, WHY would cox stamp the cylinder specifically for a single application if it was identical to an existing part? There must surely be something different about it, but it isn't obvious to me.
Al Lenz

Andrew

Tim --

Thanks for the very complete descriptions on the cylinders.

the "other" andrew

meowy84

HEY HEY HEY guys quit hijacking my post. LOL just kidding of course.

Tim, there's a cold one at my house for you. Thanks for that super rundown. This newbie really appreciated it.

meowy84

Oops, got so excited copying that cylinder lineage that I forgot to say what I was gonna say.

I know the screen can probably be removed but it will leave those 4 nasty marks where it was heat-welded(?) to the outside of the cylinder. I'm a stickler for nice appearance and cleanliness (but don';t ask me why I'm into messy, dirty little Cox (no pun intended) that spit all over.)

Now the IMPORTANT PART: which cylinders are the best? The ones with the single big exhaust slits or the ones with the smaller double slits? Let me define better: longer lasting, more power, better cylinder metal for less wear, etc, etc. I would think that the big slits allow for better breathing (kinda like getting a dual 3" exhaust on your car) but if so then why did they go to the 2 slit design on the later models?

Tim Wiltse-RCU

Al,

Yup it was for the engine in the Cox P-40. It's the only cylinder marked for a certain model.

LAter,
Tim

Tim Wiltse-RCU

meowy,

There are a couple of cylinders that are not even on the list the cylinders for the Cox Venom and the REAL Killer Bees. All of the Cox cylinders are made from the same leaded steel alloy. As for which ones make the most power...in theory the #4/5 and then the #1's. But it is totally possible to have an engine with a #4 cylinder that runs like a dog. The fit of the cylinder and piston makes a world of difference plus the rest of the engine set up i.e. fuel type, venturi tube size and the glow head type. Plus the size of the bearings.....just kidding on that last only I believe only once a little fella masters the Cox reed valve engine can he then call his self a man

Later,
Tim

loverofyahshua

This is a GREAT forum. After learning computers, and then ebay, I had aquired a few boxed of different Cox engines. I had acquired my first cox 09 with a muffler and throttle. What a dream, to find it, I thought. Back to a dragonfly with a diesel head and throttle muffler now. I sold all the PAW and hope to run this dieselized conversion. About the cylinder, with no cylinder removing slots, there is a 1530 Cox wrench, that fits into the exhaust port slots. I believe a dremel, will assist a flyer, to remove the exhaust opening stell, so the wrench can fit. Hope this helps.
dj

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I've never seen a dieselized Cox engine make it through a gallon of fuel before breaking.
HD cranks wont do you any good once you start snapping rods.

BTW, never, ever use the exhaust slots to hold the cylinder..use pliers where there is no chance of damaging what matters.