flyquiet

Hi:
You bet I am watching. This is totally different than advertising in magazines and ebay. This is fun watching the different ideas. In the last 15 or more years I have tested over 50 designs for sound reduction. I have been in TV and radio production and recording studios for over 35 years. Sound is easy to reduce if you have the space. One of the best books on sound reduction was written by Howard Crispin over 15 years ago and it was for the AMA. He had research from one of the colleges wind tunnel tests on propellers and the Air Force designs for mufflers for their unmanned aircraft.
We are getting ready to introduce several brand new products in the near future.
Fly quiet and have fun,
Ron

EASYTIGER

My Feedback: (119)

I've got some simple questions:

The pipe shown on your site is not a true tuned pipe, but the one shown in the ad on RCU is different, and is a true tuned pipe for the norvel 061?
What kind of performance gain are you getting with the tuned pipe?

EASYTIGER

My Feedback: (119)

PS I was a soundman for many years, features and commercials and news and such! We have something in common!
But I could care less about how loud the pipe is! I want POWER! I want a tuned pipe to give MORE POWER!

Bipe Flyer

ET,

You're looking to get more out of your Kamdax, right? How about a Fora or a Cylcon? Even an AME might give that little bit extra.

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Actually BRUCE, that was me, not Matchless, although Jeremy did provide me with the plans. I am still using that carbon tuned pipe on my LCB carbon flying wing that I built for the 1st design contest.

aND Tim, I used some high temp vinylester resin, not epoxy, and its holding up fine. vERY cool temps our small engiunes run at...

AJC

Bipe Flyer

AJC! Glad to see you back.

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Well, 2005 came and went in a hurry... I am trying to get back into some modeling stuff, and 1/2A in particular. Between my mom and dad having gotten ill this past year,, the busiest year at work in 12 yrs, and other stuff its been quite crazy. But I have still been keeping my eye on you guys..


AJC

EASYTIGER

My Feedback: (119)

That's all I want outta life, another 1000 RPM for my Kamdax! I think I HAVE a pair of AMEs, they are just the norvel, right? I could go for a Fora or Cyclon, but can they spin the load of the fan? What about the CS? I have the CS tuned pipe already.
When i think about it...I do NOT need a throttle.

Good to hear from AJC! Hope all finds you well.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

ET, the G&Z peaks out on a 4.2x4 APC. I think the fan would be WAY more load than it would like. Maybe the Fora or Cyclon would be better since they're timed for less RPM?

EASYTIGER

My Feedback: (119)

That's what I am afraid of...the Fora or Cyclon are a serious investment that may not work. I did that before with developement work on the Tokifan when I bought a $250 Fantom 16 which is now useless to me. Also, the cases may be too large to fit into the fan unit...

propbuster

My Feedback: (1)

Hi guys, I've been watching this thread and I've been thinking how the added 1000 rpm is beneficial over the added weight and drag that this type of muffler must add. I can see how the added weight and drag wouldn't affect a bigger model, but with the small ones I always thought lighter was better. Just wondering, AJ, Good to see you back

EASYTIGER

My Feedback: (119)

1000 rpm on a DF model is a HUGE gain, I would gladly take the weight of the pipe for that. Pretty much ALL IDCF setups except the Kamdax use a tuned pipe.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

You know, the Big Mig .061 is not as powerful as a good TD. Add a tuned pipe that works and you might have quite a bit more than your 1k.

EASYTIGER

My Feedback: (119)

I ASSUME the Kamdax engine is the AME version, not the BigMig version...

As far as the norvel being less powerful than the tee dee, well...could be, but I doubt it. Though I have seen some very powerful tee dees, they were very inconsistently so, one was really powerful for a little while, and then pow, wheras the norvels run strong time after time...

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

ET, I've replaced a Bigmig .061 c/l on a delta with a TD and there was a pretty big difference. Seems like someone checked the porting and said the engines in the Kamdax were BM's, but that's lost in the far past. Yep, the TD's are not the most consistant runners off the shelf. A new needle valve makes it a pretty steady runner. (Texas Timers has them I think) I'm sure you've probably got one around somewhere.

flyquiet

Hi:
This is getting to be fun. To answer Bruce first. When you receive your Fly Quiet pipe the instructions will show you how to start the TD or Blackwidow without priming through the exhaust port. To answer EasyTiger. Looking at your gallery with the duct fan planes. We made custom pipes for some duct fan flyers in New York 2 or 3 years ago and they work fine. BUT the planes were made around the pipes. It is like installing the .40 size Fly Quiet pipe inside the fuselage for looks and extra siliencing, the plane should be built around the pipe. A short story EasyTiger since you were in radio. 20 or more years ago some flyers made expansion chambers behind the firewall by coating the wood with epoxy. They worked great. Being in radio I thought I could do better so I made the whole rear of the fuselage into reverse sound traps. It was fantaisic it was so quiet. I put the plane away after some of the planes caught on fire in flight. It was specatular going down in flames.
Fly quiet and have fun,
Ron

EASYTIGER

My Feedback: (119)

Never in RADIO, just film and television...
Heh...make the whole plane into an expansion chamber! Good idea...in THEORY, as you found out! I once had a scratch-built 52" General Aristocrat...I used large silicon tube to duct the exhaust from a Saito 30 through the fuse...well, the silicone let go, and the fuse filled with fumes...RUINED the plane, all the internal wood was totally soaked with oil, it turned into a floppy bannana!

Now...back to the tuned pipe for the Norvel 061...
I bought the aluminum CS pipe and tried it. Could not get the engine to come up onto the pipe. Will yours work, if I can get it to fit?

mclintock

My Feedback: (3)

Does the Kamdax version of the norvel engine use a normal norvel head and plug? I wonder if the galbreth head and nelson plug combination would bump you up 1K with the exaust the way it is? No added weight anyway.. Also pulling the carb and putting on a venturi may gain something? Lets you ditch a servo if nothing else.
Also listed on the carlsonengineimports site, is a zeus variant or some such of a norvel, with no photo, but it sounds from the destription to have a huge venturi that requires a bladder pressure tank to run. Maybe one of those venturi would be good for even more?
http://carlsonengineimports.net/products/ame.shtml

EASYTIGER

My Feedback: (119)

All good ideas, yes...

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Well, I couldn't resist. Got one for a TD and one for a surestart on the way. For thirty-three bucks, the price is right. If all else fails, at least they'll be quieter...
ET, hey at least we're being nice and not hollering at you.

ArthurD

I've been using FlyQuiet pipes for several years. My first use was as a tailpipe to keep exhaust off my plane. Then I tried their double cone tuned pipe on a Laser Arrow with a Webra .32 and I can tell you without doubt it is just as powerful, maybe more, than the Macs tuned pipe I had been using. It also cleaned up the carb mixture tuning issues of too-lean at top end.

You'll appreciate the guy who owns FlyQuiet, Ron. He's been very easy to deal with, is knowledgeable and has great service. Go to his web site at www.flyquiet.com and check out his test results and products. No, I don't work for him. Just a very satisfied customer.

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Tim,

I have the high temp epoxy. Can you do a trade for some CF sleeve? Specs on epoxy not handy, but let me know if interested.

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with Arthur on Ron and his Flyquiet products. Talk about energy and enthusiasm. His products are unique and well made and they work. At least everything that I've used from his large selection of products. Shown is my Low Stik with exhaust extension. The grey really works well as it's a neutral colour and suits most any colour scheme. Way to go Ron.

Ron, you haven't heard from me for a while because I liked your stuff so much right away that I got me a virtual lifetime supply.

EASYTIGER

My Feedback: (119)

Can someone give me a flat answer? Does flyquiet make a TUNED PIPE(not tuned muffler or exhaust extension or anything else) that fits the Norvel 061 and what kind of performance increase does it give?

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Clint,

I tried the Nelson plug/head combo on a variety of Norvels including a piped version but saw no advantage. In fact, my piped VA, which already comes with the Nelson plug, while it ran very well on the pipe, it would flame out on acceleration from even a brief idle period. Interestingly, adapting the VA to take a stock Norvel plug cured the problem with no loss of power.

Easytiger,

A thousand rpm? What are you getting with the fan with the stock engine? On a 6 x 3 black Tornado, both my VA MK2 and rear exhaust Norvel gave me a 3K boost. And throttling was maintained with a little tweaking as in the VA. And yes, throttling at 6K not necessary for DF flying so any non idle bleed throttle should give you all the throttling and transition you would need. Plus, you can get an .074 barrel which is a drop in fit and has a slightly larger bore. Every little bit helps.

I have a Kress .049 fan that I never got around to trying.

An easy way to gain 500rpm is from a tip sheet published by Larry Driskill with an additional trick of my own. Illustrated with a Wasp .06 crank, first, heat shrink a piece of tubing onto the crank pin to protect it. Then, using a Dremel fine point grinding bit, cut a groove at the 7 O'Clock position as shown. Larry's version is more pronounced, mine works well enough for me. To compensate for the missing counterweight material, next grind the back edge of the crank web behind the pin. Finally, fill in the dead spot in the crank port with JB Weld. Make it just enough to take out the stagnant chamber and allow a nice slope into the crank passage. Hope the pics make it all clear. Larry also likes to polish the crank with extremely fine sandpaper, (2000 grit?) but I prefer the normal break in to do this to avoid overdoing and getting leaky cranks. That's just me though,,, maybe not a real issue.

Another thing to consider, along with the 500 gain described above is to try just a long FlyQuiet pipe. Make a baffle that you can slide back and forth and secure with a zip tie. Trim the long pipe to about three inches away from the baffle and install an outlet. In this case you can pick up that last 500 rpm you're looking for. This actually gives you a tuning effect but it won't be as efficient as a true, tuned pipe.


Addendum:

This particular crank's groove turned out more six o'clock than intended although the camera angle makes it worse. My better ones were very much biased to the left of the port hole. This crank hasn't flown so I don't know if or how much difference it would make.