combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

That's a good idea, JM. Mole hills are a problem here and so are surveyors' stakes. Pretty soon another problem will be asphalt, parked cars and light poles. [&o]
Right now all glassing projects are on hold until I get a fresh batch of West Systems epoxy and throw out this Fiberbond junk that I've been using.

Japanman

I have used west system resins a bit. I would very strongly recommend measuring the two parts with a degree of accuracy. From what I have read, epoxies link A polymer to B polymer, a bit like a jigsaw, to make a solid. Should there be a bit much of A or B floating around, it will stay unlinked to anything and weaken the resulting plastic.
This has certainly been my experience- measure well, and the results are good. Don`t and, they aren`t. likewise, you want to mix very well- I think 200times is a guideline for high stress parts.
On top of this, it seems that there are two strengths/ hardnesses you can attain- both with equally prepared resins.
One is with the resin cured at room temp. It is O.K. It is also slow.
Another is achieved at about 45 to 55 C and it is significantly better. <and fast!> A hairdryer (wait till she goes shopping) or fan heater can be made to blow into a corrugated cardboard box to get what you need done. Look out for molds distorting, bubbling etc etc though!
Hope some of this is a help.


J.M

DeviousDave

West Systems is pretty good stuff, but after a year starts to go bad-it's best used for wings. For fuses Resin Services HTR-212 is one of the better ones I have used-it's a high temp resin that will handle around 400 degrees. The current "in" epoxy for fuses is MGS, but I've only ever seen it used on F5D's. Those get really hot too, but don't blow exhaust on the fuse.