Raymond LeFlyr

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I wus gunna call it "Blue in YOUR-face" but I chickened out. What I wanted to do was experiment with BlueCor FFF and balsa to see if I could come up with a light airframe. I declare success!

Bare weight was 35 grams. RTF with the .010 was 3.2 ounces. I haven't weighed it with the .020.

Flew five flights yesterday. What a HOOT! Could easily keep up with our 'unlimited' Reedie Racers. I will put the .010 back on since it is now trimmed (I had WAY TOO MUCH elevator and aileron throws).

Details: Span 15 inches
chord 4.5
LOA 17
110 mah nimh
(2) Cox red (cheapo) servos
Construction:
Wing BlueCor FFF
Fuse conventional sides and formers balsa, firewall 1/8 ply. top and bottom FFF
finish three thin coats of WBP, light Rustoleum, 2 thin coats Ultracote clear sealer

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Hey! Where did my photo go? Whew, I thought for a minit youse-all wouldn't get to see me.

Edit: (Make sure you click on the enlargement to see me in the best detail!)

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

In response to the numerous requests for more words about my flying exploits (this is the NON place right?) . . .

Sunday it was windy here, so I used that as an excuse to leave the TD .020 attached to the Blue-in-the-Face (herewith, BITF) - even though I designed the model with an .010 in mind.

So there I was having filled the tank, drawn fuel into the venturi, and a drop or two onto the piston. Back flip, back flip. Several skeptics standing nearby gleefully anticipating fruitless attempts at starting the engine. Attach the lighter. Winding the spring, releasing, nada. Winding again, release . . . ah that lovely sound (this little engine is a sweety).

The skeptics push forward, the better to see the sure-to-come crash they think. Hah, I laugh on them!

Boldly I stride to the flightline. I render the thousand yard stare into the stiff breeze, my long (but still manly) hair wafting straight back from my smooth, wrinkle-free brow. I draw my right hand back, level the little plane with the screaming engine, and with a throw worthy of my Olympic-winning javelin days - another story) off she goes! Narry a wing-wobble, narry nose-dip, but a picture perfect, gentle climb-out over the soy bean patch. I could have left the transmitter laying on the ground!

What perfection! Large, straight loops. Flashing rolls - one, two, three. High speed, low passes. Then silence as the little model glides safely and surely to a stop a few feet from where I stand. Skeptics no more. Admirers all.

I feared that they would hoist me to their shoulders - but thankfully they confined themselves to a chorus of "For He's a Jolly Good Fellow".

Well, it could have happened that way . . . But I did have a good day and I'm well pleased with BITF. Next week I'll mount the .010 fer shur.

bps

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Check out my thread on the NonTest 09 Ugly Stick. My entry is completed!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9120520/tm.htm

Raymond LeFlyr

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Follow-up report on TD .010 powered BITF. Eh!

I think the engine I used may have to be relegated to the 'spares' bin.

Next time I'll try a "real" red tank/gold case .010. That ought to put some zip in 'er.

However, I won't get out to play again until Sunday which means that the stunning performance with the .020 will have to stand for the non-test proof of flight.

SnApRoLl-

My Uncle has a really cool scratch built R/C 3D Fun Fly with a .20. Is that ok? I know this "Nontest" states no more than .15c.i. in displacement for single engine planes, But you guys really gotta see this plane!!

Shawn

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

This is probably more of a small airplane builders forum than 1/2a specifically, I have no problem with a .20, I flew a Veco .19 for about 3 years when I got started, and just put up a electric power plane that had been designed for .010. I think the real little motors are going to get rare for two reasons, one is very few are being made anymore, and (flame-suit on) electrics do the real little stuff better IMHO.

SnApRoLl-

I remember those old Veco's. I used to have an old Veco .19 r/c engine that ran like a scalded dog!!
As far as the electric stuff goes, you cant beat a little home made rewound cd rom out runner. I made one that turned almost 19,000 rpm with a 2 cell liPoly with a 6x3 GWS prop. The prop had stress cracks in it after being spun that fast!!

Bipe Flyer

True. I've had the as much enjoyment in electrics by making my own brushless motors as flying them, despite the fact that I can buy one already built for less.

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

I have to second that emotion. I have had more fun with cheap 2-cell outrunners than you can shake a Reedie at. The ability to swing props from 6 to 8-inches makes all the difference. Having a "throttle" is nice too.

However, they will have to pry my little TD's from my cold, dead hands. PAW diesels too.

SnApRoLl-

Have they gotten that cheap? I have not priced brushless motors lately.
I haven't built one in at least a couple of years, but I used to be able to get enough NeoDimium magnets and magnet wire to build a few motors from a surplus electronics store when I lived in Florida called Sky Craft. And I used to get free junk cd-rom drives from throw away computers. So my cost was around $6.00 or $7.00 per motor at the time. (The magnets being 80% of the cost) I'm sure the prices for those supplies have probably gone up double or more by now though.

Bipe Flyer

It's costing me a little over $10 to make mine.

HobbyKing has several under $10.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idCategory=220

Raymond LeFlyr

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Help meee! I am a HobbyCity, little motor, junky!

I can recommend their tiny 1811 motors (200kv, light 2-cell li-pos and 5-inch props).

And their little more expensive 24-gram motors (1700kv especially). On 2-cell, 500 mah, li-pos, 8x4 props these are hard to beat on small models FFF models.

But if you don't want to hear about Chinese lekkies here - flame Bipe Flyer. It was his idea .

combatpigg

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Rich, I'd love to be able to argue your point........but until I see a .049 powered plane do all the same 3D and pull out of a vertical dive in reverse, I'll have to abstain.

Bipe Flyer

I'm ready to admit that now electrics outperform, but they didn't always. Still, there's a coolness factor to IC engines.

Something doesn't have to be the best for you to love it, ask any sports fan. lol

Bipe Flyer

Uh oh!

SnApRoLl-

Wow they have gotten cheap in price!!! And those prices sure beat spending an hour or more winding magnet wire around a stator. Especially when you forget your wind count on one stator pole and have to start over again! LOL

SnApRoLl-

Since we are waiting for more airplane pictures for the "Design Nontest" I thought I'd post a couple pics of one of my 1/2a toys just for kicks.
Here are some before and progress so far pics of a Cox Shrike that I am restoring.

Bipe Flyer

Very nice restoration job. What do you use to polish the plastic?

SnApRoLl-

Thank you for the compliment.

I used Mothers automotive upholstery and leather cleaner / protectant and a lint free buffing cloth to polish the plastic.
Mothers upholstery cleaner works wonders on anything plastic!

I also found a source for reproduction Shrike canopies and one will be ready next month and it will make the car look much better.

BMatthews

Fair notice that this thread looks like it has run it's course. I'll give it a couple of more days and then pull the sticky status and let it ride on its own merits.

Mr67Stang

I notice you changed the orientation of the engine during the restoration of your Shrike. Any reason?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I can't even remember what I built for this ?

BMatthews

OK, OK, it's unhooked and can slide away in prep for this year's Fall build off.