VGE Hobbies

My Feedback: (9)

He guy's and gal's,

I came up with a new engine design for a drum rotor Cox 049. Please check out the video on youtube and let me know how you like it. Just click this youtube link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsV65Xhbcz8



Reggie



www.vintageglowengines.com

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Very nice Reggie! The ID of the drum looks big enough to run a .15! [:-]

VGE Hobbies

My Feedback: (9)

Thank You! Yes, it get's the fuel/air mix in the engine for sure. Looks big but it's really not. The rotor is the same size as the RR1 but just a hair longer and the port is longer. I think my next step is my own cylinder and piston set up, it's next on the drawing board. Pretty soon I'll have my own 1/2a engine

Reggie

build light

I know I like this.
The run is super smooth and steady!
I have seen reedies that turn more RPMs

A few questions.
What size prop and what rpms were achieved in the youtube video?

You noted using a standard Cox glowhead in the video. Surely a Tee Dee head could make a difference or would the drum porting hurt the top end should you try and achieve 20+K RPMs?
If so, might you offer in the future a Hi-Perf Rotor for racing for example?

Have you tried different props on this design and settle for the prop in the video as best suited for this particular set up?

Will left hand rotors be available in the future for pusher installations?

I am sure I will have more questions later! I want to play with one!

Robert

Tim Wiltse-RCU

Here is Halfa Work's Mangusta DR .049 rear drum engine that has been in production for a few years now. Many of you will remember the build threads on it as I documented the design work when I was first doing the prototype machining. It started as a disk rotor engine and then became the first rear drum Cox 1/2a to be made in any real numbers since the RR1. Many of the forum members here offered their insight and support as I was up late at night machining parts, making changes and doing all the hard work that went into this design. Here is my old video of the first Sniper DR .049 rear drum engine prototype..[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3Kn2WW-1xA]Sniper DR .049[/link]

VGE Hobbies

My Feedback: (9)

Robert,

In the video the engine was running a a Cox 6X3 propeller and low nitro. I wanted to show how the engine would keep the same rpm's on a 3 min run. I tested another prototype with a Galbreath Head with Nelson Plug Combo and a smaller APC prop it was around or over the 20K range and ran just as steady as the lower rpm range on the 6X3. The pictures on this post is one of the first prototypes with a rotor from the a Cox RR1. I improved the rotor from the RR1 making it longer and a longer timing port.

If I get some time this weekend I will take another vid of the engine with upgrades turning those high rpm's!

Reggie

JCT049

Reggie,
There is a bunch of machine work on that back plate. What kind of equipment are you using to do all of that pretty work?

John Tate

VGE Hobbies

My Feedback: (9)

John,

I used a Haas cnc mill. Pretty big machine for a small part.

Reggie.

forsakenrider

Lookin beautiful Reggie. I would love to see you come out with your own engine, one for speed and one for sport.

Do you have an idea on a standard price for your RR2 or will you just be auctioning them off on the 'bay

VGE Hobbies

My Feedback: (9)

Thank you. I'm going to be working on my own cylinder/piston set this spring. I'm thinking about more of a Norvel style cylinder and still retain the VGE RR2 backplate setup. As for sales I'm going to be listing them for $99 with free shipping to US customers and $15 S/H worldwide.

I will also be making a reverse LH rotor maybe this weekend or next for the VGE RR2 backplate to run those left hand propellers. Due to many request.

Reggie

Dan Vincent

Love these custom engines, beautiful work.

I'd like to see someone make a combination rear drum backplate with beam mounts that would make a reed type case to be similar to the Cox Space Hopper layout. Speed guys would probably love it.

Silvaire

My Feedback: (50)

Great looking engine Reggie,

I've looked at the pictures you posted here and on your eBay auction, but none show the crankshaft and how you are driving the rotor.

Can you post a picture, or share any details of how you are doing this?

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

Nice looking work.

Why don't you just put a second drive hole in the drum, one for forward running, the other for reverse rotation?

build light

That would be a good idea but it should be marked "L" and "R" to make things a little easier should the information and engine become seperated down the road. Also, how hard could it to measure and drill your own secondary hole? Of course it would be nice to have these available as a replacement part.

Reggie, thanks for clarifying the data in the video. Most could tell it was not turning it's potential RPMs.
Also sounds like a price many could afford.

Robert

VGE Hobbies

My Feedback: (9)

Thank you HighPlains.

I guess I could. But wouldn't it be more fun to keep up with 2 rotors? lol I'll have to keep it simple with one hole and mark each one with a R or L on the face on the rotor to indicate its rotation.

Reggie

VGE Hobbies

My Feedback: (9)

I just couldn't stand it any longer. So I did more testing today out in the cold overcast sky. Yuck! Testing the RR2 as listed it turns a APC 4.2X4 @ 22K and change. It's scary turning a popsicle those kind of rpm's. So I added a 1702 HC glow head and it spins a Cox 5X3 nice and smooth at steady 18500 rpm's on 15% nitro.

Here's a link to a short video and I'll post the longer one later this weekend.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTjXGxi2Q8g

Bipe Flyer

When I saw the pictures I thought it was one of Tim's designs. Very nice.

VGE Hobbies

My Feedback: (9)

Bipe Flyer, Thanks!

No, it's my design. The rotor and female part of the RR2 backplate are modeled from the RR1 and the venturi part is the same diameter as the Killer Bee's intake. Nothing like Mr. Wiltse's DR 049.

Reggie

Silvaire

My Feedback: (50)

Reggie,

I'm still hoping that you will let us know how you are driving the rear rotor, or better yet, post a picture.

I can think of 3 ways that you might have chosen to do this:
Reduce the width of the big end of the rod (not likely good, as it seriously compromises an already highly stressed part).
Drill the crank pin and press in a pin (probably doable, and probably good if done right).
Build a new crankshaft with a long crank pin (best of course, but expensive and probably impractical for a short run of parts).

Perhaps you came up with something that I didn't think of?

Since you are offering these engines for sale, I felt it was appropriate to ask you for info on this detail of your engine!

t587y28

Could someone tell me about the two larger COX .049 crankshafts in this picture?
The crankshaft on the bottom of this picture is from a standard sure start 049.

SGC

The top 2 cranks are Cox car engine cranks

t587y28

I was under the impression that COX only made one other HD size crankshaft for the 049 Bees.

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Nope, I have a bunch of those larger diameter cranks as well and they for sure came from Cox car engines.

AJC

t587y28

Can this crank be use for an aircraft engine? I read some ware that they are stronger than the surestart engine cranks. Thank you for your time, and info.

lildiesel

I've long been intrigued with the rear drum valve for Cox engines. I wonder what throttling would be like with a variable intake air restrictor on one?