brianjskora

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Hey man, Not trying to shoo you away, but You will probably want to go to a different forum topic for questions on a different RC build, since this is the rally thread.

Building an RC from scratch can have many benefits, but it can also be hair pulling without much experience, let us know how it goes.

Joe- the sidewinder would be fine with the 1/10 setup. You can buy the sidewinder with 3800 4600 or 5700 1/10 motors in a package, so you are good to go with yours... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUTA1&P=ML

If you want to use the mamba, I would just try that first, if it is messed up, just swap it out-

J0EC00L

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Yeah Skora,

I looked into last night while i was bored at 2 in the AM! Dang, i Need pills Anyways, The winder will handle the 4600kv motor fine. I think I may get a differnt KV if i plan on it going into the Rally. I am really contemplating making the rally a speed demon! But in order for me to do that, I'll have to get some more weight on it. As much as i hate ALum parts, I don't plan on bashing this RC, just road racing, so i may go with Alum mounting posts/brackets, Steel CVD's and center Drive shaft. Dual servos and Alum servo protectors. I'll give the RC a weight in with batts before Esc and Motor swap. Then start adding the mods and give it a weigh in. Hopefully the additional weight will help keep it planted a little better and not lift off in flight at 60 plus MPH!

ha ha ha. Wow! I'm already excited like a kid on Christmas eve!

Joe

J0EC00L

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Hey Skora,

Got the mamba max installed on the rally. I mounted it in the normal esc spot to keep my rcvr box in place. About 3/5th of the esc is mounted down to the chassis, while the remaining half is sticking out the side... But the larger body doesn't even come close to touching the esc. I didn't want to modify the rcvr box slot due to wanting the ability to easily swap out esc or rcvrs in the future. The less cutting the better. I also cut the corners off te battery compartment doors nearest te servos. Now both ends are trimmed, but I want to run the batt wires towards the front where there is more space to tie them up and keep from getting tangled into the wheels an shredding again.

One thing I definitely need to adjust on the esc is the drag brake. I have it at 30% which seems to be attempting to actually stop te rc, vice slowing it down. Though, I did make a trial run on only 2s with stock pinion. If you recall, I want to install the tenbol mount and larger motor, which will probably require my esc to drag brake at 30% or even higher.

My next order to tackle is setting the steering sensitivity and rate on my transmitter. I've never really messed with that feature. Does it have the capability to do exactly what I'm aiming to do? Slower steering sensitivity/rate at higher speed with faster steering rate at slower speeds? Or, do the settings apply to all speeds regardless? I know the spektrum supposedly has the capability.

Joe

crazy nick

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About a week away from owning ken block version. Oh I can not wait. Goin w/ mamba micro pro, what motor size should I get? I'm gonna probably go 2s to keep weight down. Using this spring for touring racing.

nostramaiden

hey do you think the ken block rally could do what this one is doing and does anyone know where i could get a body like that thanksre">

crazy nick

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[quote]ORIGINAL: nostramaiden

hey do you think the ken block rally could do what this one is doing and does anyone know where i could get a body like that thanks



I hope these rally cars can do that. They should with little problems. I haven't seen much for bodies yet, even non painted are tough to find thus far. But give it time , they'll come out w/ all kinds of bodies for these I'm sure.

J0EC00L

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Nick, why did you decide to go with the mamba micro pro, and not the sidewinder or mamba max pro? I was able to get the mamba max pro to fit in the esc slot on my rally. It fits with about 2/5 of it hanging over, but it still doesn't touch the body any.

Also, I believe there are some bodies that will fit the rally. They may need to be trimmed a bit, but search for 190mm or 200mm bodies and you can look at their dimensions to see if they matchup. A few pages back on this forum you'll see that someone did the measurements and determined what sizes should be a close fit. I'll give mine a quick measure and see what I come up with.

Joe

J0EC00L

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Ok,

I did a little quick measuring of the rally body. These are not accurate to the exact mm, but based on a close rounded number in inches

Length from rear bumper to front: 14 inches
Width from left door to right door: 6 1/4 inches
Distance from center of rear wheel to center of front wheel: 8 1/8 inches
Distance from rear right fender to rear left: 7 1/4 inches
Distance from front right fender to front left: 7 1/4 inches

Basically the 200m wide bodies will typically be a few inches longer and an inch wider at the center.

May need to look into the 190mm bodies, but keep in mind the wheel well distances. The slots pre cut to allow for the wheels may be off a bit. But additional trimming could solve that. Heck, the 200mm bodies may work, but be a little bigger or longer; but give more options when trimming. The 190mm bodies may require a perfect fit, and it will determine the body type too. I don't think a corvettes would fit, but a Subaru or hatchback body of some type may just fit right.

Hope that helps.

nostramaiden

alright thank you im glad i found that video i see now the rally should be able to do what im looking for

brianjskora

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Joe- Here is the offset of the nitro tec wheels

crazy nick

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JOECOOL, I was was thinkin the mamba micro pro just to keep cost and size down but still have all the features . I have a rusty w/ mamba maxx pro and absolutely love it. I had the tekin rs system but it would always run hot . So I sold it and got the mamba , the fan never even runs w/ 3s lipo.

J0EC00L

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Oh ok.

Can the mamba micro pro hadle 4S, or is 3S its limit? I assume it is also a bit smaller and will take up less space, so i can see your decision.

I like the look Skora... now just a video, or i can try my own when they come in, in a few days. I have a few things on my list to get. A larger brushless motor, the Spektrum DX3S and some alum gear to weigh the rally down. Before i get the Spektrum though, i would like to give the TRaxxas 2.4 link a try with some new settings - if it can progrma the way i like it to. Up until now, i've only used the transmitter in its basic form, but i beleve i can adjust the steering sensitivity, i just hope i can adjust it to be more responsive at lower speeds, but less at hgher speeds.

Anyone do this with their transmitter? if so, how'd it fare?

Joe

brianjskora

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Ive got the 2.4 expo dialed in at about 90%, so I have to really jamp on the wheel to get it to turn, but I love it as it wont just randomly spin out if I touch the wheel on a straightaway. Throttle expo I have on about 50%

-ran yesterday but it was below freezing and the tires didnt warm up so it was a crappy run- It needs to warm up a little so the tires arent rocks!

crazy nick

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Joe , 3s is the limit on the mamba micro , but these cars are so light you really don't need more IMO. But I am a conservative throttle racer. Good lines and consistancy not the fastest from corner to corner is how I race.

J0EC00L

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OH,

So at 0% it would be quick response and the higher the percentage, the slower the steering rate? Or do i have it backward? Mine is at stock or what ever the base setting is, and my rc turns rather quickly... so bad it causes easy spin outs and drifts - but that could also be due to the stock tires. They griped fairly decent in the very beginning after they heated up, but now they just spin out if i goose the throttle over 50%

How'd you dial in the steering rate via the controller? I'm sure the manual describes how to do it, but i'm just asking you since you've already done it. Is it set where it turns quicker at slower speeds and slower adjustments at higher speeds? My guess is it probably applies to all speeds and doesn't have the features to apply to different speeds.

Joe

brianjskora

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Joe, it applies to all speeds. and yes, 0 would be off, or no expo.. and 100 would mean that if you turn it a little, nothing really will happen, but it exponentially (SP) increases as you turn the steering wheel more.

For adjustment, look in your guide at the bottom of the controller...

hold menu 3 seconds... when green blinks once, hit set... one red blinks once, hit set. You now have the knob on the right set for steering exp adjustment. I have it at 90%, so when i turn my wheel about 25%, not much happens, 50%, a little bit happens, 75%, alot is happening... but its no different at 5mph then 40mph.

I keep mine on this setting, as I like my throttle expo the same on road, or off road. The only thing I change is the steering.... off road I turn it to 0, on road 90%. Thats just my opinion though. To make sure you have it on the steering setting if you are not sure, turn everything on, and then turn your wheel about 50%... then, turn your right knob back and forth (Set to steering expo) and you should see the front tires changing since you are changing the expo. If not, you have it set up incorrectly.

J0EC00L

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ahhh,

so i've been mistaken on how the steering expo actually works. You set it to the degree of turn on the knob. So that slight movements on the steering knob relate to slight increments of turning on the rc. This way, you can turn safer at higher speeds and maintain control of the rc, but when you slow down, you are also able dial in more abrupt turning by applying more to the steering knob.

Makes complete sense! I was figuring that based on the throttle position of the trigger, the steering expo/rate will either increase or decrease. But instead, it is determined by the steering knob position. At 50% or less, you can have the steering rate set to slow, and then anything greater than 50% radius, equates to full steering rate. Thus, you have to be careful with the steering knob at higher speeds, not to turn more than the % you dialed in.

Am i correct in my latest assumptions? Sorry for the noob questions - but it serves me right since i've never bothered to experiment with the additional features of my Remote.

Geeze - I'm a horse's Patooot!

Thanks for your help Brian!

crazy nick

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You couldn't have explained that better !

brianjskora

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glad to help... again, the best way to really see how it works is to set it up and turn it to 0 and turn just 25%. You will see the wheels turn about 25%.... but once its turned up to say 75%-100%... when you turn the wheel 25%, the wheels may only turn 3-5%... when you turn 50%, the wheels may turn about 25%, but then at 75%, they are probably 60-75%, then when you turn 100, they turn 100!

Its a very difficult concept to explain on a forum haha!

J0EC00L

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So,

with that explanation - what would be the formula to have the steering rate set at 25% (car) with the steering knob set for 0 to 50% turn (Transmiter) and then a 75% knob turn equals 50% turn (Car) and 100% equals 100%? is that possible? ORdoes it have to equate equal increments from 0 to 100? Basically meaning that you can't lock a percentage in of 25% turn rate (car) to the transmitter knob radius of 0 to 50%

Hope i made that clear enough?

Joe

J0EC00L

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Allright.

I have narrowed it down to the castle cms36 6900kv motor. It is designed to perform best on 2s, which gives me double run time with 2s parallel and I don't have to monitor temps as much. I'll still have to determine gearing, but that's another day. I actualy came across a csecmn6900 kv premium motor by castle, which has 4 poles vs just 2 poles, which means more durability and torque. We'll see. The premium run around 100 while the cms 36 only runs about 70-80.

Also, in my quest to find different bodies to work on the rally. The 200mm will be too long and too wide. The 190 is also going to be too long, but is closer in size by width and wheelbase.

Here's the measurements.

Length: 460mm = 18.11 inches
Width: 190mm = 7.4 inches
Wheelbase: 255mm = 10.09 inches

Compare that to my earlier measurements of the rally body, and it appears that the 190mm bodies may work, but will be about 3 to 4 inches too long. The width and wheelbase seem fairly close though. So I guess you set it with a few inches sticking over front and rear to counter length, and just trim the wheel wells a bit more/less and..... wallah!

brianjskora

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Joe- Its hard to say really... I would think for that combo maybe try it at about 50% and see how it feels. Once its dialed in, its great though!

J0EC00L

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Thanks again skora. I will give it a shot this weekend. I have a few parts coming in.

I actually won two castle 6900kv motors, by accident. Didn't think I would win the other one, but I guess I can sell it. The one I plan on using in the rally is the 1406 6900kv premium. Per their website, it has 4 poles and punches more torque and has more durability. I'm excited!!! Can only use 2s on the motor, but that's good - longer run times with them in parallel.

Iv also got the castle fan shroud on order for the motor and the steel center drive shaft. I want to give it a try and see how it does. I still have to get some steel cvd axle shafts for front and rear, but was wondering if I should save money with the integy ones or stick to Traxxas? The steel center drive shaft is made by integy and they haven't always made the best quality parts. My other dilemma is if I should invest in the new integy billet alum arms. They are a few bucks more than the standard alum, but look fairly tough. Lastly, integy now makes titanium pushrods and toelinks. I know titanium is stronger than alum, but is it worth the extra bucks? I want to make the rally suspension sturdy enough to handle the higher speeds and also give it some more weight at the lower center of gravity. Alum parts should help with that..., but I'll wait to see how the plastic holds up until something breaks. Still gotta get steel cvds regardless, and probably the rods and links to tighten suspension. May also have to consider a second servo - anyone got an extra one lying around?
Anyone interested in a 6900kv? Lol

brianjskora

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Sounds like some fun projects on the car. At first when you said aluminum I was thinking... no way... but i guess on the rally its not jumping and bashing... its racing so it might be ok- definately to get weight lower.

Im trying to think if I need a 1/10 motor... I dont think I do but ill ask some buddies today when we race/fly

PM with what you want to get for it

J0EC00L

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Yeah, its gonna be a nice little project. I too am skeptical about alum parts, but since I'm not bashing and offloading the car, I don't see the problem. Plus, I want the suspension as tight as I can have it with a little more weight. The billet alum arms by integy appear thicker and better quality than their previous designs. So...... I'm really considering giving them a shot. I will have the center steel driveshaft we've all wanted to try. I think the steel driveshafts will be Bette suited to handle the higher revolutions and torque this car is gonna pump out.