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Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

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Old 08-16-2012, 11:51 AM
  #3201
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

The difference comes bout what? grease?
Someone already switched to oil? What?

Do I need to buy the grease and go again? Never grease or changed or differentials of the motor housing ...
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:13 PM
  #3202
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

Just spent the last couple of days reading this forum when i had the time. I own a RTR flux XS,Chase I had the exact same thing happen to me on the rear after about 5 or 6 packs truck was brand new. and found the exact same thing. all i had to replace was the bearing but when i rebuilt i put a small washer on top of the bearing before i put the pin and pinion gear back in, there previously was not a washer behind the pin. its been fine since. I actually just tore down my front diff to inspect for maintenance and the front diff had the washer behind the pin. it was put there during the build by HPI. I know my pinion shaft has a lot of slop in it. just wondering if the washer is not there, if the backside of the pinion or the pin itself is beating on the bearing causing the bearing to fail early in the diffs?
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:58 PM
  #3203
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Thiagooo

The difference comes bout what? grease?
Someone already switched to oil? What?

Do I need to buy the grease and go again? Never grease or changed or differentials of the motor housing ...
I want to try diff oil inside the differentials too, can we use silicone diff oil? I tried a heavier grease and it seems to be oozing out the bearings a little (I could have put a bit too much in there).
I am probably looking for somewhere between 50k and 100k weight

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Asch74

Just spent the last couple of days reading this forum when i had the time. I own a RTR flux XS,Chase I had the exact same thing happen to me on the rear after about 5 or 6 packs truck was brand new. and found the exact same thing. all i had to replace was the bearing but when i rebuilt i put a small washer on top of the bearing before i put the pin and pinion gear back in, there previously was not a washer behind the pin. its been fine since. I actually just tore down my front diff to inspect for maintenance and the front diff had the washer behind the pin. it was put there during the build by HPI. I know my pinion shaft has a lot of slop in it. just wondering if the washer is not there, if the backside of the pinion or the pin itself is beating on the bearing causing the bearing to fail early in the diffs?
Sorry to hear you'rs did the same mate. Iwanted to put a couple of washers/spacers in there as there was quite a bit of play in the cup when I installed the new HR cups, but didn't have anything handy at the time.
I dont think mine had a washer in there either, the remains of my rear diff are posted in that pic a page or two back.
I think you are right. With no washer in the rear the pinion shaft could very well be sliding back and forth and the pin damaging the bearing shield and letting the bearing cage and balls collapse.

Cumminspower, did yours havea washer in there rear diff?

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Old 08-20-2012, 03:59 AM
  #3204
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Thiagooo

The difference comes bout what? grease?
Someone already switched to oil? What?

Do I need to buy the grease and go again? Never grease or changed or differentials of the motor housing ...
I want to try diff oil inside the differentials too, can we use silicone diff oil? I tried a heavier grease and it seems to be oozing out the bearings a little (I could have put a bit too much in there).
I am probably looking for somewhere between 50k and 100k weight

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Asch74

Just spent the last couple of days reading this forum when i had the time. I own a RTR flux XS,Chase I had the exact same thing happen to me on the rear after about 5 or 6 packs truck was brand new. and found the exact same thing. all i had to replace was the bearing but when i rebuilt i put a small washer on top of the bearing before i put the pin and pinion gear back in, there previously was not a washer behind the pin. its been fine since. I actually just tore down my front diff to inspect for maintenance and the front diff had the washer behind the pin. it was put there during the build by HPI. I know my pinion shaft has a lot of slop in it. just wondering if the washer is not there, if the backside of the pinion or the pin itself is beating on the bearing causing the bearing to fail early in the diffs?
Sorry to hear you'rs did the same mate. Iwanted to put a couple of washers/spacers in there as there was quite a bit of play in the cup when I installed the new HR cups, but didn't have anything handy at the time.
I dont think mine had a washer in there either, the remains of my rear diff are posted in that pic a page or two back.
I think you are right. With no washer in the rear the pinion shaft could very well be sliding back and forth and the pin damaging the bearing shield and letting the bearing cage and balls collapse.

Cumminspower, did yours havea washer in there rear diff?

Thinking back to when I took it apart, I don't remember seeing one. I threw some shims in their and it helped a little, but it needs more.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:33 AM
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

My rear diff started slipping in and out of gear yesterday too, so i chucked a couple of washers in there behind the pin, too many and it was binding, took one out and it seems ok now ...
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq

My rear diff started slipping in and out of gear yesterday too, so i chucked a couple of washers in there behind the pin, too many and it was binding, took one out and it seems ok now ...
Yep, I finally got mine to be shimmed just perfect. I had the same issue. I somehow also broke a tooth off the ring gear. they mesh fine tho oddly. haven't had a chance to try it all under battery power yet, just turning it feels ok.
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Old 08-23-2012, 04:09 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


Quote:
ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq

My rear diff started slipping in and out of gear yesterday too, so i chucked a couple of washers in there behind the pin, too many and it was binding, took one out and it seems ok now ...
Yep, I finally got mine to be shimmed just perfect. I had the same issue. I somehow also broke a tooth off the ring gear. they mesh fine tho oddly. haven't had a chance to try it all under battery power yet, just turning it feels ok.
Well I am glad it has hopefully worked out for you, I gave mine a quick buzz up and down the driveway, but yet to fully test it.

I went from 20c hyperion packs to 40-80c Turnigys the other day. Need tyres now, mine are practically bald lol, still cant pop a wheelie
on demand, and forget about a flip haha. Trying to keep it straight is entertaining though.

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Old 08-23-2012, 04:11 PM
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


Quote:
ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq

My rear diff started slipping in and out of gear yesterday too, so i chucked a couple of washers in there behind the pin, too many and it was binding, took one out and it seems ok now ...
Yep, I finally got mine to be shimmed just perfect. I had the same issue. I somehow also broke a tooth off the ring gear. they mesh fine tho oddly. haven't had a chance to try it all under battery power yet, just turning it feels ok.
Well I am glad it has hopefully worked out for you, I gave mine a quick buzz up and down the driveway, but yet to fully test it.

I went from 20c hyperion packs to 40-80c Turnigys the other day. Need tyres now, mine are practically bald lol, still cant pop a wheelie
on demand, and forget about a flip haha. Trying to keep it straight is entertaining though.

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Old 08-24-2012, 09:12 PM
  #3209
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq


Quote:
ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq

My rear diff started slipping in and out of gear yesterday too, so i chucked a couple of washers in there behind the pin, too many and it was binding, took one out and it seems ok now ...
Yep, I finally got mine to be shimmed just perfect. I had the same issue. I somehow also broke a tooth off the ring gear. they mesh fine tho oddly. haven't had a chance to try it all under battery power yet, just turning it feels ok.
Well I am glad it has hopefully worked out for you, I gave mine a quick buzz up and down the driveway, but yet to fully test it.

I went from 20c hyperion packs to 40-80c Turnigys the other day. Need tyres now, mine are practically bald lol, still cant pop a wheelie
on demand, and forget about a flip haha. Trying to keep it straight is entertaining though.

Scrap what I said, it doesn't work and I now know why.
Take the shims out. The shims are moving the pinion AWAY from the pin. What is happening is because there is play in the pinion shaft/rear drivecup, the shaft backs out and the pin slips out the back of the pinion and looses
drive to the rear diff. The pin and the back of the pinion on mine are wearing because of this. that pin needs to be as far inside the pinion as possible so it doesn't slip out. Shims aren't the way to fix this (you should have seen what was left of the shim closest to the pin in my diff!).

It's very simple to fix and I should have thought of this before... While removing your shims unbolt the two big allen bolts on the back of your TVP's that hold your diff to the chassis. Remove the two bolts that hold on the esc.
Find/buy some of those little foam spacers that go in the drive cups for the front and rear dogbones and put one in each drive cup between the gearbox and the rear diff. OR what I used was Tamiya o-rings that are commonly used in their
oil filled shocks (and actually some of their drive cups). This will take up the play in between the gearbox and diff and stop the diff drivecup from backing out which in turn stops the pin inside the diff from slipping out of the pinion!

I just done this to mine, in hindsight I should have taken photo's to explain, but hopefully you get the jist of it.
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:07 PM
  #3210
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

Was running a toro 3900kv on 2s in my flux xs ss,

I was pleased with the performance but the motor got hot and would start to cut power back due to heat issues,

If I let it cool even for 1 minute it would come onto full power again, after a few packs runtime this became annoying,

Ive just bought a castle 3800kv motor but want to know if this is a down grade in speed and power to what I'm used to with the 3900kv toro motor,

I went with a lower kv rating than the stock xs flux rtr 4000kv with the toro 3900kv as I read about overheating issues on the stock rtr xs,

Is 3800kv castle motor too much of a step down in kv to have good torque and have some speed?
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Old 08-25-2012, 01:16 PM
  #3211
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

I have no experience with toro motors, but i have heard lots of people choosing the castle 3800kv as the motor of choice
in the savage xs. I do know the castle has .2mm laminations compared to the toros .35  (same as vektor 4000) and the 
castle has higher quality magnets which both keep the temps lower in the motor.     
I also know the castle 3800 doesnt draw as much current on the esc as the vektor does, (being far more efficient and not wasting current as heat)
so this could be similar to the toro.
I honestly dont know how much of a drop you will feel, if any, with a 100kv difference, try it and find out
(and let us know your thoughts).
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:11 PM
  #3212
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...





I got a GREAT deal on this little beast!
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:12 PM
  #3213
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double post.. sorry.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:57 AM
  #3214
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq


Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq


Quote:
ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq

My rear diff started slipping in and out of gear yesterday too, so i chucked a couple of washers in there behind the pin, too many and it was binding, took one out and it seems ok now ...
Yep, I finally got mine to be shimmed just perfect. I had the same issue. I somehow also broke a tooth off the ring gear. they mesh fine tho oddly. haven't had a chance to try it all under battery power yet, just turning it feels ok.
Well I am glad it has hopefully worked out for you, I gave mine a quick buzz up and down the driveway, but yet to fully test it.

I went from 20c hyperion packs to 40-80c Turnigys the other day. Need tyres now, mine are practically bald lol, still cant pop a wheelie
on demand, and forget about a flip haha. Trying to keep it straight is entertaining though.

Scrap what I said, it doesn't work and I now know why.
Take the shims out. The shims are moving the pinion AWAY from the pin. What is happening is because there is play in the pinion shaft/rear drivecup, the shaft backs out and the pin slips out the back of the pinion and looses
drive to the rear diff. The pin and the back of the pinion on mine are wearing because of this. that pin needs to be as far inside the pinion as possible so it doesn't slip out. Shims aren't the way to fix this (you should have seen what was left of the shim closest to the pin in my diff!).

It's very simple to fix and I should have thought of this before... While removing your shims unbolt the two big allen bolts on the back of your TVP's that hold your diff to the chassis. Remove the two bolts that hold on the esc.
Find/buy some of those little foam spacers that go in the drive cups for the front and rear dogbones and put one in each drive cup between the gearbox and the rear diff. OR what I used was Tamiya o-rings that are commonly used in their
oil filled shocks (and actually some of their drive cups). This will take up the play in between the gearbox and diff and stop the diff drivecup from backing out which in turn stops the pin inside the diff from slipping out of the pinion!

I just done this to mine, in hindsight I should have taken photo's to explain, but hopefully you get the jist of it.
I did the same thing with the shims. What you said makes sense tho that having the washers behind the pin won't let the pinion seat itself all the way on the pin. I did throw some of those foam spacers in each drive cup between the transmission and diff. So before you said this, I have he foam spacers and the shims in. I'll have to see how she runs. Thanks for the find!
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:24 AM
  #3215
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


Quote:
ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9
I did the same thing with the shims. What you said makes sense tho that having the washers behind the pin won't let the pinion seat itself all the way on the pin. I did throw some of those foam spacers in each drive cup between the transmission and diff. So before you said this, I have he foam spacers and the shims in. I'll have to see how she runs. Thanks for the find!
Yeah I would take the shimsout, but let us know how you get on.

Just ordered some HPI geolandars, still an all terrain but stickier than the useless D compound stock GT2's, my GT-2s are pretty much bald after a month and a half.
I have some old tamiya king cab rims with Proline Dirt Paws on them that are good for the dirt and grass, just needed something to replace the stock ones
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:56 AM
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


Quote:
ORIGINAL: chasehq


Quote:
ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9
I did the same thing with the shims. What you said makes sense tho that having the washers behind the pin won't let the pinion seat itself all the way on the pin. I did throw some of those foam spacers in each drive cup between the transmission and diff. So before you said this, I have he foam spacers and the shims in. I'll have to see how she runs. Thanks for the find!
Yeah I would take the shimsout, but let us know how you get on.

Just ordered some HPI geolandars, still an all terrain but stickier than the useless D compound stock GT2's, my GT-2s are pretty much bald after a month and a half.
I have some old tamiya king cab rims with Proline Dirt Paws on them that are good for the dirt and grass, just needed something to replace the stock ones
Ran it and everything is ok with it. The shims are thin and I believe that's why it is ok. Other than the clicking since my bevel/ring gear is missing a tooth, I think it all worked out after pulling the diff apart 10 times in the beginning lol.

I was thinking of getting geolanders as my next tire, but nothing grips like pins do. I run Badlands and have been for about 8 months now and they show little signs of wear.
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Old 08-30-2012, 04:07 PM
  #3217
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

I installed another 4 bumpers, liked the end result ... seems to become more agile.
I drove about 20 minutes and stopped it, activated the protection of ESC because it was too hot.
This has nothing to do with the 100 grams more than the bumpers add right? or have?

I put a thermometer in the sink today and 10 minutes later the temperature reached 80 degrees Celsius / 175 ° Fahrenheit.

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Old 09-01-2012, 07:54 AM
  #3218
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

Does anyone have problems with the body screws stripping? I have had three screws that became unusable. I wish Tony Screws hD a kit for the xs.
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:56 PM
  #3219
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


Quote:
ORIGINAL: wyumez





I got a GREAT deal on this little beast!
é o pneu masher 2000?
voce precisou fazer gear down?

@@@@
He was running today and started making noises, strange crackling. I stopped, took apart the engine ... and that engranagem this way:
A 6-eaten teeth, left a bit on top ...
this may have been caused by the 4 bumpers that added? OMG ...
buy this part of hotracing? hpi or stock?
HPI105813 Idler Gear 32t-56t costs 6,99
the same by hotracing costs 20,00 too expensive, I can buy three gears of hpi

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Old 09-06-2012, 01:42 PM
  #3220
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

Can someone shed some light on how to program the ESC? My bullet flux has the Mode Table in the manual but the XS doesn't have a table that shows all the ESC modes and options for change. I don't want to have to buy a ESC program card.


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Old 09-08-2012, 01:10 PM
  #3221
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

Someone already removed the rear differential?

I removed the 4 screws that asks the manual, page 33 ...
  But the front does not come out at all, this very fixed, what to do?
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:47 AM
  #3222
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

I use a hobbywing 80A esc with no problem once you remove the stock esc mount. just zip tie it down.
Quote:
ORIGINAL: sparky 25


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Foxy

So I'm thinking of finally getting an SS kit, anything I should know?
Don't do as I did,

ordered a toro 80a esc to find it won't fit in the very tight space allocated for the esc on the xs,

Most 60a esc fit without issues though,

Have yet to run mine as I'm waiting on the 60a esc to arrive,

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Old 09-09-2012, 02:31 PM
  #3223
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

Yea the 80a esc will fit in the space,

but is as tall as the roll bar/carry handle leaving it very exposed if you do any bashing.
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:32 PM
  #3224
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

Anyone know what this noise might be?

I opened that box and everything ok ta ... also open that part smaller, and everything is right with the gears, but doing this weird noise ...

This is the rear differential.
The front works without noise.

This Dogbones without connecting to the engine, I also pulled the engine ... finally. this light and loose.

[youtube]8phhJy8N1lo[/youtube]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8phhJy8N1lo
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:57 AM
  #3225
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Default RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

Has anyone found a permanent fix for our drive cup problem? I've read reports of the HR drive cups breaking as well.
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