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  1. #3226
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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: wyumez

    Has anyone found a permanent fix for our drive cup problem? I've read reports of the HR drive cups breaking as well.
    Ha! Run it with a NiMH battery. Either that or JBweld the dogbones into the drivecups. The biggest issue to failing drivecups is the slop. If the slop can be taken care of, it should fix the problem. Either that or CVD's will take care of it. With the pins on the dogbones not fitting tight into the cup, it allows them to "snap" to seat itself to get power to the wheels. Overtime, it leave indents in the cup and weakens it.
    -Aerodynamics and turbos are for people who can't build motors.

    Ofna LX2e-4s
    Axial SCX10 Jeep

  2. #3227

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


    ORIGINAL: wyumez

    Has anyone found a permanent fix for our drive cup problem? I've read reports of the HR drive cups breaking as well.
    Ha! Run it with a NiMH battery. Either that or JBweld the dogbones into the drivecups. The biggest issue to failing drivecups is the slop. If the slop can be taken care of, it should fix the problem. Either that or CVD's will take care of it. With the pins on the dogbones not fitting tight into the cup, it allows them to "snap" to seat itself to get power to the wheels. Overtime, it leave indents in the cup and weakens it.
    The cupjoint of hotracing breaks?
    Mine arrived this week ... still not installed '-'
    Only solution is to spend JB? Durepox? But it will be very rigid ...


  3. #3228
    cumminspower5.9's Avatar
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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: Thiagooo

    ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


    ORIGINAL: wyumez

    Has anyone found a permanent fix for our drive cup problem? I've read reports of the HR drive cups breaking as well.
    Ha! Run it with a NiMH battery. Either that or JBweld the dogbones into the drivecups. The biggest issue to failing drivecups is the slop. If the slop can be taken care of, it should fix the problem. Either that or CVD's will take care of it. With the pins on the dogbones not fitting tight into the cup, it allows them to "snap" to seat itself to get power to the wheels. Overtime, it leave indents in the cup and weakens it.
    The cupjoint of hotracing breaks?
    Mine arrived this week ... still not installed '-'
    Only solution is to spend JB? Durepox? But it will be very rigid ...

    I haven't tried the HotRacing cups, but I have heard in several instances that they can break also. JB weld or permanently fixing them to the cups will work. But it will be difficult to JB weld the cups coming out of the transmission. My diff cups are still perfect. Its the 4 outer cups, center cups, and the cups that go to the diffs are the ones that wear. I'm sure there are other ways to fix them, but the main thing to do is to stop the dogbone from moving in the cups. Shims, foam, something. See the picture. If you stop the pins from doing this to the cups, problem solved. Doesn't matter how you do it tho.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Us55020.jpg 
Views:	98 
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ID:	1800724  
    -Aerodynamics and turbos are for people who can't build motors.

    Ofna LX2e-4s
    Axial SCX10 Jeep

  4. #3229
    cumminspower5.9's Avatar
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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: Thiagooo

    Anyone know what this noise might be?

    I opened that box and everything ok ta ... also open that part smaller, and everything is right with the gears, but doing this weird noise ...

    This is the rear differential.
    The front works without noise.

    This Dogbones without connecting to the engine, I also pulled the engine ... finally. this light and loose.

    [youtube]8phhJy8N1lo[/youtube]

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8phhJy8N1lo
    Pull the diff apart. I didn't watch the video, but if anyhting makes a noice that's not natural, pull it apart. Mine makes a clicking sound. So I took the rear diff apart and found a missing tooth on the ring/bevel gear.
    -Aerodynamics and turbos are for people who can't build motors.

    Ofna LX2e-4s
    Axial SCX10 Jeep

  5. #3230

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


    ORIGINAL: Thiagooo

    ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


    ORIGINAL: wyumez

    Has anyone found a permanent fix for our drive cup problem? I've read reports of the HR drive cups breaking as well.
    Ha! Run it with a NiMH battery. Either that or JBÂ*weld the dogbones into the drivecups. The biggest issue to failing drivecups is the slop. If the slop can be taken care of, it should fix the problem. Either that or CVD's will take care of it. With the pins on the dogbones not fitting tight into the cup, it allows them to ''snap'' to seat itself to get power to the wheels. Overtime, it leave indents in the cup and weakens it.
    The cupjoint of hotracing breaks?
    Mine arrived this week ... still not installed '-'
    Only solution is to spend JB? Durepox? But it will be very rigid ...

    I haven't tried the HotRacing cups, but I have heard in several instances that they can break also. JB weld or permanently fixing them to the cups will work. But it will be difficult to JB weld the cups coming out of the transmission. My diff cups are still perfect. Its the 4 outer cups, center cups, and the cups that go to the diffs are the ones that wear. I'm sure there are other ways to fix them, but the main thing to do is to stop the dogbone from moving in the cups. Shims, foam, something. See the picture. If you stop the pins from doing this to the cups, problem solved. Doesn't matter how you do it tho.
    Here is a link with a Savage xs build that had problems with the HR cups. I think I'm stubborn and loyal to the Savage, which is why I won't give up on it yet!!!

    Hrmm.. I wonder if I can try fuel tubing, or even a hard play-dough like putty I can use to prevent the dogbones from rubbing... silly putty lolz.

    I'll search around for a compatible part later on tonight. There MUST be a high-end truggy such as a Kyosho or Mugen drive cup we can use instead.
    Hpi Savage, Hpi NitroMt2
    Hpi Micro Rs4, Xray M18, MR-TC4 SD SSG, HPI Pro-4

  6. #3231
    cumminspower5.9's Avatar
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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: wyumez


    ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


    ORIGINAL: Thiagooo

    ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


    ORIGINAL: wyumez

    Has anyone found a permanent fix for our drive cup problem? I've read reports of the HR drive cups breaking as well.
    Ha! Run it with a NiMH battery. Either that or JBweld the dogbones into the drivecups. The biggest issue to failing drivecups is the slop. If the slop can be taken care of, it should fix the problem. Either that or CVD's will take care of it. With the pins on the dogbones not fitting tight into the cup, it allows them to ''snap'' to seat itself to get power to the wheels. Overtime, it leave indents in the cup and weakens it.
    The cupjoint of hotracing breaks?
    Mine arrived this week ... still not installed '-'
    Only solution is to spend JB? Durepox? But it will be very rigid ...

    I haven't tried the HotRacing cups, but I have heard in several instances that they can break also. JB weld or permanently fixing them to the cups will work. But it will be difficult to JB weld the cups coming out of the transmission. My diff cups are still perfect. Its the 4 outer cups, center cups, and the cups that go to the diffs are the ones that wear. I'm sure there are other ways to fix them, but the main thing to do is to stop the dogbone from moving in the cups. Shims, foam, something. See the picture. If you stop the pins from doing this to the cups, problem solved. Doesn't matter how you do it tho.
    Here is a link with a Savage xs build that had problems with the HR cups. I think I'm stubborn and loyal to the Savage, which is why I won't give up on it yet!!!

    Hrmm.. I wonder if I can try fuel tubing, or even a hard play-dough like putty I can use to prevent the dogbones from rubbing... silly putty lolz.

    I'll search around for a compatible part later on tonight. There MUST be a high-end truggy such as a Kyosho or Mugen drive cup we can use instead.
    Well you can either buy expensive drive cups (which for a high end one might cost you) or just shove some kind of good in the cup and jam dogbone in it and put it all back together. Silly putty might not be a bad idea. use something maliable that wont come off inside the cup at high rpms.
    -Aerodynamics and turbos are for people who can't build motors.

    Ofna LX2e-4s
    Axial SCX10 Jeep

  7. #3232

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


    ORIGINAL: wyumez


    ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


    ORIGINAL: Thiagooo

    ORIGINAL: cumminspower5.9


    ORIGINAL: wyumez

    Has anyone found a permanent fix for our drive cup problem? I've read reports of the HR drive cups breaking as well.
    Ha! Run it with a NiMH battery. Either that or JBÂ*weld the dogbones into the drivecups. The biggest issue to failing drivecups is the slop. If the slop can be taken care of, it should fix the problem. Either that or CVD's will take care of it. With the pins on the dogbones not fitting tight into the cup, it allows them to ''snap'' to seat itself to get power to the wheels. Overtime, it leave indents in the cup and weakens it.
    The cupjoint of hotracing breaks?
    Mine arrived this week ... still not installed '-'
    Only solution is to spend JB? Durepox? But it will be very rigid ...

    I haven't tried the HotRacing cups, but I have heard in several instances that they can break also. JB weld or permanently fixing them to the cups will work. But it will be difficult to JB weld the cups coming out of the transmission. My diff cups are still perfect. Its the 4 outer cups, center cups, and the cups that go to the diffs are the ones that wear. I'm sure there are other ways to fix them, but the main thing to do is to stop the dogbone from moving in the cups. Shims, foam, something. See the picture. If you stop the pins from doing this to the cups, problem solved. Doesn't matter how you do it tho.
    Here is a link with a Savage xs build that had problems with the HR cups. I think I'm stubborn and loyal to the Savage, which is why I won't give up on it yet!!!

    Hrmm.. I wonder if I can try fuel tubing, or even a hard play-dough like putty I can use to prevent the dogbones from rubbing... silly putty lolz.

    I'll search around for a compatible part later on tonight. There MUST be a high-end truggy such as a Kyosho or Mugen drive cup we can use instead.
    Well you can either buy expensive drive cups (which for a high end one might cost you) or just shove some kind of good in the cup and jam dogbone in it and put it all back together. Silly putty might not be a bad idea. use something maliable that wont come off inside the cup at high rpms.

    What would be great is if we had a drive cup that looked like this:




    Hpi Savage, Hpi NitroMt2
    Hpi Micro Rs4, Xray M18, MR-TC4 SD SSG, HPI Pro-4

  8. #3233
    cumminspower5.9's Avatar
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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    Yea that definitely looks more sturdy than the stock cups. The stock cups split too due to the slot for the pins. HPI should just make CVD's for the XS and it will solve everyones problem for the diff and axle cups. now the center cups would need a new design.
    -Aerodynamics and turbos are for people who can't build motors.

    Ofna LX2e-4s
    Axial SCX10 Jeep

  9. #3234
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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    Those cups in the picture are stock hpi Baja cups with a hardened steel band slid over them,

    My xs cups don't even look used yet and being the ss it's has cvd's at the wheels,

    If the cups are breaking on the xs, an after market company would make some easy money providing cups with the steel bands in place.
    Its me is that you?

  10. #3235
    cumminspower5.9's Avatar
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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: sparky 25

    Those cups in the picture are stock hpi Baja cups with a hardened steel band slid over them,

    My xs cups don't even look used yet and being the ss it's has cvd's at the wheels,

    If the cups are breaking on the xs, an after market company would make some easy money providing cups with the steel bands in place.
    If they had those cups for the output of the tranny, and made cvd's for the inner and outer axles, i would definitely spend the money
    -Aerodynamics and turbos are for people who can't build motors.

    Ofna LX2e-4s
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  11. #3236

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    Does anyone know if there is good tire masher 2.2 on savage xs? Or is it too heavy? 

    About gear, 24T and 60T decreasing to help?
    As stated here: http://www.prolinera...s-xs-flux-mini/


  12. #3237

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...



    hey guys finally back home (toronto) after 3 months in kansas for work. Ive been out of the loop since then but is there anyway to increase ground clearnace on the xs? I need more height when I bash during the winter to avoid snow build up.


    Edit: noticed an odd noise on my xs and though it was coming from the gear box but i think is from the wear on the drive cups:


    ill order those HR Hardened drivecups but how I remove the drive cups? Ialready removed the screwshafts but the drivecups wont budge


  13. #3238

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    Remove the screws from cupjoints and then pull them out. Simple as that.

    one that has a spring clutch, needs more strength ... Last time I opened I used a screwdriver to move it out

  14. #3239

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: Thiagooo

    Remove the screws from cupjoints and then pull them out. Simple as that.

    one that has a spring clutch, needs more strength ... Last time I opened I used a screwdriver to move it out
    ahh i see, I should have put wd40 on it and let it set overnight

  15. #3240

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...



    upon setting my order for the HR hardened centre cups I realize ive been negalecting my xs since built my stampede 4x4 with mmp+3800kv, teknos all around etc.



    This is my list so far to strengthen my lil xs, let me know if need to add anything else:
    HPI Universal Drive shaft set instead of HR hardened centre cups
    Alum. heat sink Motor Plate
    Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Body HPI106704 (thinking white/black tone)
    CC3800KV motor

    Current hopups: Powerstroke shocks, tbone bumpers, traxxas turnbuckle mod, traxxas servo, geolander+hpi wheels





  16. #3241

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    You have geolander yokohama? Are really good?



    ORIGINAL: spena



    upon setting my order for the HR hardened centre cups I realize ive been negalecting my xs since built my stampede 4x4 with mmp+3800kv, teknos all around etc.



    This is my list so far to strengthen my lil xs, let me know if need to add anything else:
    HPI Universal Drive shaft set instead of HR hardened centre cups
    Alum. heat sink Motor Plate
    Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Body HPI106704 (thinking white/black tone)
    CC3800KV motor

    Current hopups: Powerstroke shocks, tbone bumpers, traxxas turnbuckle mod, traxxas servo, geolander+hpi wheels





  17. #3242

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    @Thiagooo
    Yea the geolander's are great! prob the best tireslistedin the Option Parts list on the HPI website.
    I was hesitant before buying since I wanted to order the Mashers 2.2 or the Dirt Hawgs but I didnt want to wait for it to ship and the geos were in stock at my lhs.

    Its great on grass, pavement and dirt but not so well in snow. Had the tire for a year with little wear after 25+ runs on 2S

  18. #3243

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    hmmm... thanks

    Well, I really wanted was a masher, but many say it is too heavy for the transmission and the ESC.
    Or buy the dirt hawg II or yokohama, however yookohama is smaller than the stock ...

  19. #3244

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: Thiagooo

    hmmm... thanks

    Well, I really wanted was a masher, but many say it is too heavy for the transmission and the ESC.
    Or buy the dirt hawg II or yokohama, however yookohama is smaller than the stock ...
    mashers will be my next set after I put in cc 3800kv and the universal driveshafts

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    The masher is very pretty haha, just afraid of having problems with the ESC and transmission ...

    The gears stock are: Crown 56T and 28T PINION.
     If I put a crown 60T  and 28T pinion... What will change? what will change in relation to the stock 56T?

    Because I wanted to buy only the 60T CROWN HOTRACING, but wanted to know what changes over 56T, running with the same pinion ...



  21. #3246

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    still having trouble removing my drive cups ib the center transmissionscrewshaft has been removed)


    really want to avoid buying a new center transmisson..

  22. #3247
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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    You haven't even removed the grub screws on each drivecup,

    Remove the grub screws and then the worn cups will come off the transmission
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Its me is that you?

  23. #3248

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...


    ORIGINAL: sparky 25

    You haven't even removed the grub screws on each drivecup,

    Remove the grub screws and then the worn cups will come off the transmission
    yupp its been removed prior to attempting to take out the cups.
    its suppose to just come off or do i need to twist it off? I see some rust could that affect it? i also tried putting wd40 and soak it for the night and still wont move.

    edit
    finally was able to take it out. took two adults to take those cups out lol
    hopefully the universal driveshafts would do better than the cups

  24. #3249

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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    Wow those cups are ready to go!!!! Lol how many runs you got on them? I'm asking cuz I want to pick up one of these trucks
    1/16th revo, 8ight T 2.0, Savage XL, Micro T, Jato 3.3

  25. #3250
    cumminspower5.9's Avatar
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    RE: Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...

    Well for the first time since I have owned the XS, I pulled apart the transmission to inspect and clean it. The slipper pad has been completely torn to shreds but remained in the transmission in a powdery form lol. It was totally gone, but it still wad enough material left on the hub to grip lol. Crazy. Now the diagram in the manual seems to show 2 slipper pads. Mine only had one. Correct me if I am wrong.
    -Aerodynamics and turbos are for people who can't build motors.

    Ofna LX2e-4s
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