Official HPI Savage Flux XS thread...
#3576
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I just ran into a problem. After 1 run in the snow the next pack I have no forward or reverse. Apparently this is a known issue when the fan wires get wet and there is an update to fix it but I dont have the program box to do the update. Since this new esc is a hobbywing SC10 esc does anybody know if the hobbywing multifuntion program box will work with it and also apply the update? Or do I need the hpi version of the box?
Here is the writeup about this issue.
http://hpiracing.world/en/article/view/2015052802
#3577
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Whoa, that sounds like a major issue, will have to check if my LHS (2 hrs away) has that box because I'm not paying $65 to fix their problem. Came across this because I'm thinking about buying a Savage XS. Is it worth the extra $30 to get the Raptor version? Looks like the only differences are the body, esc, motor, and esc mount. Also, any other parts I should order with the vehicle as backups?
#3578
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Whoa, that sounds like a major issue, will have to check if my LHS (2 hrs away) has that box because I'm not paying $65 to fix their problem. Came across this because I'm thinking about buying a Savage XS. Is it worth the extra $30 to get the Raptor version? Looks like the only differences are the body, esc, motor, and esc mount. Also, any other parts I should order with the vehicle as backups?
I think it is worth the extra $30 because it comes with a better esc and motor than the original. I hate to admit what I am doing but I bought the programmer box with full intention of updating my esc to fix that issue and returning the program box for a refund............................ If I were you i would get the upgraded steering turnbuckles. The stock ones pop off all the time. Also the stock tires just plain suck and get no grip on anything. I put Big joe II tires on mine. Much better grip over the stock tires. The stock steering servo is VERY weak. Less than 40oz of torque. I got a cheap traxxas 2075 servo on ebay for like $25. Waterproof and much much more torque.
#3579
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I think it is worth the extra $30 because it comes with a better esc and motor than the original. I hate to admit what I am doing but I bought the programmer box with full intention of updating my esc to fix that issue and returning the program box for a refund............................ If I were you i would get the upgraded steering turnbuckles. The stock ones pop off all the time. Also the stock tires just plain suck and get no grip on anything. I put Big joe II tires on mine. Much better grip over the stock tires. The stock steering servo is VERY weak. Less than 40oz of torque. I got a cheap traxxas 2075 servo on ebay for like $25. Waterproof and much much more torque.
#3580
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Can you point me to the turnbuckles you're recommending? I see lots of aftermarket parts and homemade solutions but guessing there's a specific item you're referring to. Good info re: the servo, those big joes look fun but I may try the stock tires out first since I'll be in the skatepark mostly.
[h=1]HPI 108074[/h]
http://hpiracing.world/en/part/108074
#3581
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I tried some bigger wheels (Proline Trencher in 2.8") and stock gearing. Running those wheels/tires causes the motor to overheat. What can I change the gearing to so that I can run these tires? I've gone back to the original wheels and no more overheating, but traction is terrible. Thanks!
#3582
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I tried some bigger wheels (Proline Trencher in 2.8") and stock gearing. Running those wheels/tires causes the motor to overheat. What can I change the gearing to so that I can run these tires? I've gone back to the original wheels and no more overheating, but traction is terrible. Thanks!
#3583
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I'm running duratrax 2.8 monster truck tires (same size as trenchers) with the 60 tooth spur gear and 24 tooth pinion. 2s 5k mah 50c battery. It's the perfect combo for the BMX freestyle jump track I run on. I run multiple packs back to back within safe temp range.
#3585
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Thanks. I have the 24T ready to go in. Any my new SPC Racing battery has the same specs as yours....so I should be good to go.
#3587
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One thing everyone should be aware of...don't do speed runs into a culdesac w/ cars at the end. 99% of the time there aren't any cars at the end of my street...had some friends over, and admittedly a few drinks, and we took the RCs out for a run. Did ONE speed run, hit the brakes a bit too hard, got some grip, and flipped it end over end into my friend's year old VW Passat. 1600 dollars later, she's getting a new door panel. This truck is fast...and dangerous...and expensive. Thankfully my homeowner's liability coverage kicked in, but still.
I literally have only flipped it end over end braking ONE other time in the year I've owned it...and of course it couldn't have happened the other 99% of the time when there aren't cars packed at the end of the street, but my get together happened to have people parking there. So yeah, horrible, horrible luck.
I literally have only flipped it end over end braking ONE other time in the year I've owned it...and of course it couldn't have happened the other 99% of the time when there aren't cars packed at the end of the street, but my get together happened to have people parking there. So yeah, horrible, horrible luck.
#3588
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One thing everyone should be aware of...don't do speed runs into a culdesac w/ cars at the end. 99% of the time there aren't any cars at the end of my street...had some friends over, and admittedly a few drinks, and we took the RCs out for a run. Did ONE speed run, hit the brakes a bit too hard, got some grip, and flipped it end over end into my friend's year old VW Passat. 1600 dollars later, she's getting a new door panel. This truck is fast...and dangerous...and expensive. Thankfully my homeowner's liability coverage kicked in, but still.
I literally have only flipped it end over end braking ONE other time in the year I've owned it...and of course it couldn't have happened the other 99% of the time when there aren't cars packed at the end of the street, but my get together happened to have people parking there. So yeah, horrible, horrible luck.
I literally have only flipped it end over end braking ONE other time in the year I've owned it...and of course it couldn't have happened the other 99% of the time when there aren't cars packed at the end of the street, but my get together happened to have people parking there. So yeah, horrible, horrible luck.
Damn, that sucks. But it is a funny story. I say that because my buddies and I do the same when we are drinking and we broke a fog light one guy's car. It was a hoopty, so he didn't care. LOL
#3589
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I love this little monster, but I HATE having to adjust the slipper on it. What a PITA. The quickest and easiest way I found was to remove the radio box and adjust from above. Still $uck$
#3590
the slipper on this truck should be set it and forget it deal. if yours is constantly coming loose you need to take it apart, clean the the gear real good, preferably get new slipper pads and rebuild it making sure everything seats correctly. i was having problems with mine constantly coming loose and it finally melted the pads.
#3591
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I stick a wrench through the side of the tvp under the radio box then roll the truck forward or back depending on whether I'm loosening or tightening the clutch. Then put a drop of medium strength lock tite on the threads. Threads have to be clean. Seems to stay put most of the time...
#3592
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the slipper on this truck should be set it and forget it deal. if yours is constantly coming loose you need to take it apart, clean the the gear real good, preferably get new slipper pads and rebuild it making sure everything seats correctly. i was having problems with mine constantly coming loose and it finally melted the pads.
#3593
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I got lucky and found the set at one of the 3 shops near me. I'm back up and running. Love this lil truck. It's my go to basher for in front of my house. At the part, the XMAXX and the Yeti XL rule.
#3594
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good day fellas...this is my first post here. Love this savage xs flux, except for the stock motor that mine came with. It's a little different Vektor 4000kv (probably older) A distinguishable difference is the screw used in the motor can. Countersunk allen head (and not the button head). Ran really well for few runs then suddenly noticed it heats up pretty quickly even with cooler ambient temps (50F-ish). Also, there was a noticeable drop in performance. So i reached out to HPI support, sent the motor and glad they replaced it right away (now with the button head screw Vektor 4000kv motor) and the difference is like day and night. I rarely bash, mostly doing speed runs on paved roads.
Happy bashing everyone!
Happy bashing everyone!
#3595
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Hey everyone. Ive started a youtube channel and my first set of videos is about tearing down and upgrading the xs flux. I have a lot more in store for the RC world on the channel coming up soon but for now Id be very grateful if you would check out what i have posted so far!
https://youtu.be/UgGdreXvrMc
https://youtu.be/pJ03jZFgXnQ
https://youtu.be/HwWQmPilrlU
https://youtu.be/hgVkh_x44-U
And a servo review
https://youtu.be/eXxLbPmNCdM
My goal is to put up a couple videos a week at least. Im very passionate about our hobby and hope i can contribute in this way!
https://youtu.be/UgGdreXvrMc
https://youtu.be/pJ03jZFgXnQ
https://youtu.be/HwWQmPilrlU
https://youtu.be/hgVkh_x44-U
And a servo review
https://youtu.be/eXxLbPmNCdM
My goal is to put up a couple videos a week at least. Im very passionate about our hobby and hope i can contribute in this way!
#3597
Well I'm back into the game. I was into nitro cars 20 years ago. I have been out of the game and I do not remember much. I broke down today and bought the Savage XS Flux Ford SVT Raptor, Duratrax Onyx LiPo 2S 7.4V 5000mAh 35C Hard Case Star, and Duratrax Onyx 225 AC/DC Advanced Charger (combo deal $360). I will get it next week. I'm will not be beating on the truck. Any recommendations for me on extra parts or upgraded parts? Looking for different wheels/tires, but I can't seem to find them. Thank you
#3598
I'm new to R/C and the Savage XS, but already I've found some parts useful:
Proline Big Joe II 2.2 Tyres - so much grippier than the stock ones.
20W or 40W Servo - the stock one is a bit weak at higher speeds.
HD Axles and spare dogbones - I broke an axle straight away.
Spare shock absorber lower ends (screw-in plastic eye things) - broke two of those.
Also paint something bright on the adjustable steering rods as they're designed to ping out and could be easy to lose in rough terrain.
Proline Big Joe II 2.2 Tyres - so much grippier than the stock ones.
20W or 40W Servo - the stock one is a bit weak at higher speeds.
HD Axles and spare dogbones - I broke an axle straight away.
Spare shock absorber lower ends (screw-in plastic eye things) - broke two of those.
Also paint something bright on the adjustable steering rods as they're designed to ping out and could be easy to lose in rough terrain.
#3599
I'm new to R/C and the Savage XS, but already I've found some parts useful:
Proline Big Joe II 2.2 Tyres - so much grippier than the stock ones.
20W or 40W Servo - the stock one is a bit weak at higher speeds.
HD Axles and spare dogbones - I broke an axle straight away.
Spare shock absorber lower ends (screw-in plastic eye things) - broke two of those.
Also paint something bright on the adjustable steering rods as they're designed to ping out and could be easy to lose in rough terrain.
Proline Big Joe II 2.2 Tyres - so much grippier than the stock ones.
20W or 40W Servo - the stock one is a bit weak at higher speeds.
HD Axles and spare dogbones - I broke an axle straight away.
Spare shock absorber lower ends (screw-in plastic eye things) - broke two of those.
Also paint something bright on the adjustable steering rods as they're designed to ping out and could be easy to lose in rough terrain.
#3600
Sure, HD Axles are: 109921 , Dogbones are: 66655 (dogbones of the beast huh). Other people have recommended Universal Drive Shafts which are 106709 , but I decided on the Axles + spare dogbones because they're cheaper initially and if something bends / breaks they can be replaced modularly.