ericke1

Can someone post a link where I can get a metal spur gear that fits exactly on the now but not the plastic replacement

wootham

Hey KRO - thanks for the 411 on the pinions. Turns out that the 13T will be just fine. I went to the LHS today and they had a NOW for sale for 229. I took the owner to amainhobbies and long story short I bought it for 189.99. He didnt even add on for the ten bucks in shipping. Thats right - I now own two NOWs and now I finally see for myself just how fast these things go. My first one went just over twenty(I GPSed it) and I have no idea why but this one is absolutely NUTS. [8D]Its insanely fast!!!! Like WOW!!!! [8D] I suppose I could GPS it but there isnt really a point. I have the timing set to race and the start up set to medium and it actually passes cars on a 30MPH main rd. I cannot believe how fast it goes and it still handles wonderfully!!

From the old one I put the motor, Mamba, TX,RX, steering servo in my brother's Mini Quake SE and took the stock batt out of the plastic case to use in his truck and it is super fast too. Its almost too fast so I dont know what was up with my first NOW - maybe the slipper. I doubt it was the diffs because I replaced the entire rear end from the new one with the old one 'cause I stripped the spur gear due to trying it without adjusting mesh and thread locking [>:] So now I have one that works properly and a bunch of spare parts. Granted it cost twice as much but at least my brother has a brushless Mini Quake.

ericke1 - I have no idea where you can get a metal spur gear - I have looked. If I find one I will let everyone know.

Silverfang - that Venom battery runs super long in new NOW that I purchased. I did not even wiat for it to shut off. Expensive battery but a pretty nice one.

A quick thanks to everyone posting in this forum, the information has helped me incredibly. I also purchased a Castle Link and all I can say is NICE

Silverfang

glad you are doing well with it. and I will let you know how that battery motor combo workd in an rc18t. goting to get a factory team rc18t and see how soon I can break it with the now moror and venom battery lol. But got to get to new york first. 2 weeks till I leave.

ericke1

THANKS, do you know the difference between the stock spur and the other one that is offered for the next/now?

thetable

FTR the Feigao (stock motor) is a 2.3mm shaft. If you are looking to go to a motor with a 2mm shaft, then there is a wide selection of 48P pinions available from Robinson Racing for both the RC18T and the MiniLST.

Silverfang

I am not sure I understoon that spur gear question, but I do know that the spur gear for the now and the one for the next are different. Then one for the Next will not work with the now.

As far as metal spur gear there is not one that I have found out there. A while ago I checked and could find nothing on it for eithere the Now or the next.

KRO

Took some pics of my NOW with the KMI ST a arms and CVD's , it made it wider by about 3/4 inch .

If and when I ever get the diff gear I am gonna set the slipper looser and cut down the braking power .

For a little more than the price of the Trinity a arms I got the arms and MIP CVD's .

BTW those are the 3 Racing wheels for the KMI ST .....

Front

Back




Built up a B/L MLST2 so I dont know how much run time she'll see !

wootham

[/quote]
FTR the Feigao (stock motor) is a 2.3mm shaft. If you are looking to go to a motor with a 2mm shaft, then there is a wide selection of 48P pinions available from Robinson Racing for both the RC18T and the MiniLST.
[/quote]


Thanks TheTable! Although the specs say the stock motor shaft on the now is 3mm I think its actually 2.3mm.

wootham

Looks sweet KRO. Hve you hurled it around and flipped it and cartwheeled and such since having all that aluminum on it?

Would you mind posting the links and the part numbers for the KMI ST front and rear arms and for the CVD's? I would very much like to stop purchasing the nylon ones over and over Are the KMI ST CVD's all you need to make the KMI ST arms fit? Thanks.

ericke1

So yesterday I was running my now and it started gasping, ie would stop running then spurt and run again. Never seen this before. My radio battery was low so I am hoping it is not that. I am also charging the pack again and changing the radio batteries, do you think the castle or mamba are giving way?

wootham

Hey Ericke1. Actually you should hape that it is because your Radio batteries were low. Make sure that green light is at least as bright as the red one. The behavior of your truck that you mentioned is condusive of low voltage in your radio. Get some fresh alkaline batteries and you should be fine. [)]

KRO

I ran 2 packs through on a track before the diff pinion stripped , nothing bent or broke (except the gear)

If you use the NOW uprights and rear bearing carriers then you have to do some modding (file out a little on the a arms) , if you get the KMI ST uprights and rear hubs it will bolt on .

Here are links too the parts ...
[link=http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=9245&cat_name=]KMI ST rear arms [/link]

[link=http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8979&cat_name=]KMI ST front arms[/link]

[link=http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8752&cat_name=]KMI ST upper arms[/link]

[link=http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=6387&cat_name=]KMI ST turnbuckle set[/link]

[link=http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=8013&cat_name=]KMI ST CVD's[/link]

Silverfang

yeppers sounds like low bats in the radio

ericke1

How about the spur gear, hub carriers, uprights and knuckle arms? Should I just get the photon parts?

KRO

Spur gear is still a Trinity part . IF you get the rear hubs , front uprights for the KMI ST then the parts should bolt on .

ericke1

Thanks, can I trouble you for the links, cant find them on that website, I can get these, please let me know if these will work on the NOW, I already installed the lower front and rear suspension arms:

HERE IS THE GENERAL LINK:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/defaul...95_736_653_702

HERE ARE SOME OF THE ITEMS, I CANT DISTINGUISH BETWEEN THE ST AND MINI PARTS:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=14267&pname=ATOMIC%20(#AK35)%20Alum%20Rear%20Hub%20Carri er%20(1Pairs)%20For%20Mini%20Inferno/ST/NB16

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=14036&pname=Yeah%20Racing%20(#MI-002)%20Alloy%20Front%20Upper%20Arm%20Set%20For%20M ini%20Inferno/NB16/(IFW137B)

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=14083&pname=Yeah%20Racing%20(#MI-007)%20Collar%20For%20Front%20Caster%20Block%20Min i%20Inferno

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=14216&pname=3Racing%20(#MIF-030/BU)%20Alum%20Steering%20Block%20For%20Mini%20Infer no/ST/NB16/(IH19)%20(BU)

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=15657&pname=3Racing%20(#MIF-036/BU)%20Alum%20C%20Hub%2020%20Deg%20For%20Mini%20Inf erno/ST/NB16

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=14267&pname=ATOMIC%20(#AK35)%20Alum%20Rear%20Hub%20Carri er%20(1Pairs)%20For%20Mini%20Inferno/ST/NB16

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=14029&pname=GPM%20(#MIF019A)%20Alloy%20Front%20C-Hub(20%20DEG)%20(BU)%20-1pr

KRO

The front c hubs , steering knuckles , and rear hubs are all the same for the Mini Inferno buggy and ST , the a arms and upper front arms and CVD's are all wider on the ST .

The front upper arms you have listed are for the buggy , the ST upper arms are longer and have a brace in them .

The links I have in my post do not work for you ?

ericke1

Thanks KRO, I actually just need the following:

Front Upper Arms
Rear Hub Carriers
Uprights
Knuckle Arms
Spur Gear

Prefer to buy them from RCmart as I can get them by Friday night, somone is coming from HK, if you can tell me from the list what specifically will work, I WILL BE SO GRATEFUL

Here is my list,

This comes in 20 deg and 22 Deg

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=14030&pname=GPM%20(#MIF019A)%20Alloy%20Front%20C-Hub(20%20DEG)%20(RD)%20-1pr&osCsid=77ebd8c98ea8f89946face915e3d3f12

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=13954&pname=GPM%20(#MIF022)%20Alloy%20Rear%20Knuckle%20A rm%20-1pr%20(RD)&osCsid=77ebd8c98ea8f89946face915e3d3f12

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=14033&pname=GPM%20(#MIF021)%20Alloy%20Front%20Knuckle%20 Arm%20(RD)&osCsid=77ebd8c98ea8f89946face915e3d3f12

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_702&products_id=13575&pname=ATOMIC%20(#AK22)%20Titanium%20Screw%20&%20Collar%20For%20Front%20Caster%20Block%20Mini%20 Inferno/ST/NB16&osCsid=77ebd8c98ea8f89946face915e3d3f12


For the CVDs, will any of these work:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/defaul...face915e3d3f12

KRO

I looked at all of the a arms for the KMI that rc mart has and NONE of them looked like they were for the ST ?

You will have to use a Trinity spur gear , NONE of the Kyosho parts will work .

The knuckles , uprights and rear carriers will all work .

KRO

The Mini Inferno ST is wider than the NOW or the Mini Inferno buggy , you will need a arms that are for the Mini INferno ST (upper and lower) if you get the Mini Inferno ST CVD's or they will be too long for the NOW a arms .

The uprights should come with the screws and collers so you dont need to order those .

ericke1

THANKS, for the C Hub, does 20 or 22 deg make a difference? Im also thinking of getting these tires and wheels.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_696&products_id=15916&pname=3Racing%20(#MIF-051/FY)%205%20Spoke%20Wheel%20&%20Tyre%20Set%20For%20Mini%20Inferno%20(FY)

And this suspension set:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_736_653_700&products_id=13396&pname=3Racing%20(#MIF-001/BU)%20Alum%20Shock%20Set%20(F%20&%20R%204pcs)%20For%20Mini%20Inferno/ST/NB16%20(BU)

PLEASE ADVISE AS I WILL GET THE STUFF TONIGHT BY EMAIL. THANKS KRO, IF YOU NEED ANYTHING, YOU CAN INCLUDE IN THE LIST AND ILL MAIL THE STUFF TO YOU.

wootham

KRO - Thanks so much for the links!!

I couldnt wait for your reply so i could make this thing a little less non-bullet-proof but alas the motor can came off during a normal run and the motor threads are stripped and because of this the spur gear is stripped. This happened to the motor in both my NOW trucks. The motors just came apart. I tried JB welding the first one this happened to but it fell off five minutes into its first run. The second one I did nothing to and e-mailed trinity to see if they would repair or exchange it.

To get the spur gear off you do have to loosen the allen screw(set screw) after removing the driveshaft, right? I cant get the dog gone things off. TRied many allen wrenches. Any ideas guys? Somewhere back in this forum it was mentioned that you could easily modify a RC18T spur gear to work. Is this true? If so, Could you use one of the metal ones that they make for the RC18T?

I must say I am finally starting to regret purchasing these things. Basically because of this motor-can-falling-off-thing. Im lost guys. Any input would be appreciated.

KRO

Dam, I cant believe the motors are falling apart ? [:@]

The RC18 spur will work but you gotta drill holes for the slipper bolts , grind a little off the back of the gear , and add a washer too each side to help with flex in the gear since its thinner than the NOWS spur , and even then its not perfect , just drivable .

I too am loosing faith in Trinity and this car , bought a USED MLST2 and put my Mamba system from my Mini T into it and did a few other mods and it came out cheaper than the NOW and has been really durable so far and is a blast too drive .

I wanna give it one more shot after I loosen the slipper some more , but IDK if the motors are falling apart ?

Did yours overheat ?

wootham

Gald to hear you are enjoying your mlst2. I have been searching for something to replace my NOW with and have considered this but I dont think you could fit the battery from the NOW into them and i would like to make use of these batteries.( I own three for the now).

The motors did not overheat. As a matter of fact I can put them back together and they run properly but will not hold together under usage in the truck.

You had mentioned flex in the RC18 spur gear due to having to file some of it off. Do you think any of these metal ones would work ?

http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_sear...rc18+spur+gear

If I could get one of these to work properly I would buy a different motor and then add the KMI ST suspension parts in hope of it being relatively durable. Any idea on how I could remove the stripped spur gear? I cant seem to loosen the set screw.

Silverfang

man wootham that is a lot of buying parts and moding just to get the NOW to run. Ya know if you get an RC18T the battery will fit no worries. My Venom will fit and its bigger than the stock now battery. I was thinking of doing all the cool things like KRO did. Great Ideas but in the end my front dif striped out before I got around to moding it.

I know I say it alot but. It is just not worth me spending all that money to hopefuly fix the NOW. If I have to use the KMI parts then I should just drop 89$ and get a KMI much cheeper in the long run. OR I can get a Factory team RC18T with the nifty blue metal parts for 130 or so and drop a momba 25 and the motor and battery from the now in to it and watch it scream run after run.

I had such high hopes for the NOW, but man that is just WAY too much work and money to get it going good. I still can't believe your cans fell appart. I would try some high temp metal set. You can probably get some at the local auto parts store or hard ware store. We use high temp metal set on the 701C turbine engines for minor repairs and it holds up to thoes temps. May work for you. Just remember no matter what the directions say let it set for 48 houres.