Derigor

HPI usually has better parts support than Tamiya does also, wheely kings are really neat trucks... for some reason they remind me of my old tamiya blackfoot when I was alot younger.

Edit: now that I think about it I dont think clods are really that more expensive than any other RC I've played with so far. 2 axles, 2 silver cans, and a chassis arnt too bad of a price. You can get a decent chassis for 100 bucks and you can find good deals on used axles on fleaBay usually. I managed to snag my axles for free luckily but I think I have seen them go for 40 bucks a pair on the fleaBay. I have a Rage chassis which is a good bash/crawl/race chassis, middle of the road for 170 bucks new. Got mine used of course for alot cheaper. I think you can get a clodzilla 2 for about 100 bucks and an M&L Art budget chassis for cheaper. My cousin has one of those and it works great. Dang clods are so tough you really dont need parts support except for maybe ordering a few plastic parts trees from tamiya. I ordered a few just in case but I agree with you, I hate waiting for things.

That's the same reason I chose an AE 18th over a Losi or something else... That and I am biased as hell. After my first rc (blackfoot) I got an rc10. Sucker still runs perfect to this day with 0 maintenance. The stealth transmission is damned near perfection.

oldzy

Anyone else use FullForce Steering Knuckles? If so, does the outer bearing stick out a little like this below?

calvino

Thanks Patchim for agreeing with me. I am consideirng one for my planes... where weight is a total issue [>:]. From my experence lower KV motors are better for bashing since they consume less power, create ALOT more power and alot less heat. Ceadergrove, wow never realized how big the tabletop was! Looks nice, man I should get my RC18 going again []

dicko

Heads up guys,

I just got a pair of the Ali complete diffs from GPM, the ones with the delrin gear. Gotta say they're not going into my 18B as they are. The delrin gear is TRASH. They both have over 1mm play side to side between the outdrives and it sure isn't a smooth diff. They're grindy right out of the pack. I'll be pulling all the balls, gear & plates out & replacing them with the Associated ones. The only part I'll use will be the ali outdrives.

I should have saved the money on these & bought the Integy steel outdrives & used the Associated balls, rings & diff gear like I planned to, the only thing that stopped me was that Tower won't allow overseas customers to use Paypal.

lesson learnt. I hope the ali outdrives hold up to the 8000kv on 11.1v, I kept melting the plastic ones.

sonicj

My Feedback: (2)

thats good to know! i was considering those... do you have a link to the integy outdrives? i haven't seen then yet!

dicko

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=L5MWJ502&P=7

sonicj

My Feedback: (2)

those are pricey! are they worth the $11 extra over the mip's?

calvino

I use the MIP in the rear with no issues at all, IMO Intergy = junk (alot of people have backed that up). Just go with like MIP.... they hold up amazing and I have had no problems with them either.

bigwill5686

on a 8000kv mamba on 3s in an rc18mt, what would be some good gearing to keep it from over heating while doing high speed/drag racing? I plan on running 1/10th scale onroad foam tires. And I have the ft motor mount/heatsink as well at an e-flight 20mm motor heat sink

Derigor

I'll save you more money by telling you to skip integy junk and buy MIP super diffs. Seriously, if MIP makes a part for your car, but you are considering getting an integy part instead, kick yourself in the ankle. MIP has been making some of the best drive train parts for years. Integy has been making some of the worst (but pretty) aluminum parts for years.

james#17

Quick question while on the diff's. I have the following setup.

3Racing Alum Lower Diffs
MIP Super Diff
MIP Shiny CVD'S
Steel Gears
Carbide Diff Balls


Do I need to install the little spring back into the outdrives with the MIP CVD'S also do I need to use the sleeve over the outdrives if I have the above setup?
I will be running a mamba 8000kv with 11.1 lipo and with 1/10 jaco foams. Just going for straight line speeds. Start to stop.

Derigor

shouldnt need the sleeves since the mip super diffs are hardened steel, but they do look cool... atleast the FT ones do.

No idea on the springs, I dont have my mip super diffs yet.

how you like the shiney cvd's? I was going to pick up a pair along with my mip diffs.

james#17

I have never driven this truck so I am not sure how I like them. I think I might go ahead and put the sleeves on because I am going to be putting alot of power out of the motor. It might help orevent the outdrives from spreading apart. I am still unsure of the springs. Does not look like I will have to use them.

Derigor

What do the mip super diff instructions say? I seem to recall someone else bringing up the same issue. I cant remember what they decided on doing.

I'd put the sleeves on, cant hurt. But I dont think you have to worry about hardened steel spreading

Steve441

I don't think the "Directions" mention them - I put 'em on just to keep the dirt out a bit if nothing else - Steve

sonicj

My Feedback: (2)

i skipped springs and sleeves on my super / shiney setup and all is well!

Derigor

there you have it, in or out; all is good

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Check it out guys. This is a VERY inexpensive way to keep an eye on your lipos.
Just go to ebay and do a search on "Lipo Battery low voltage buzzer Indicator alarm RC Car"
Sorry, no links allowed. It is only $4.90 with free shipping from seller abeyerr

So Cal

Im really glad i have my rc18mt, it has been pouring down rain all day. So i charged uo the rc18 and have been running it all day in my living room. But tomorrow after i go get my dads new chevy im breaking out the muggy and revo.
i just got the body from my friend and he cut it to hell. The metal diffs are awseome!!

calvino

Heck at least it looks cool with the shell on . Shure is fun having something to do inside when the weather outside could be way better

So Cal

Thanks, and yeah, rain for one day is ok but a lng time, just plain sucks. I wish water was not so harmful to rc's. I about need a new wing, mine is getting bashed up pretty good.

dylan0123

Ok so I got interested in a mini, knew nothing about them, thought i wanted a losi mini-t, found out 18T's are 4WD (I love rally cars, and own an STI), just sat down for 2.5 hours and got to page 46 of this thread. I've read every post up to that point. I saved a lot of my questions, and most of them got answered, but I still have some left. I'm gonna try to finish the rest of the thread so I can get more info on these things. Would you guys kindly answer these ?'s? Thanks!

1. What does it mean to “shim the diffs”? Can someone give me more info on this? Pics? What size shims are needed, where, how many, how do u put them in, where can u get them?
2. Do I need 2 sets of super diffs, or just one on the rear?
3. What’s an Exotek Slipper? If I have MIP super diffs and metal diff gears, would I need an Exotek Slipper with a 6800kv or 8000kv mamba system?
4. What are fr&rr CF shock towers? What does the “fr&rr” abbreviation stand for?
5. What’s a Derlin Spur Gear? What website has them the cheapest?
6. What’s the point of a graphite center driveshaft? do the stock ones break? or is it just lighter so it makes the vehicle faster? (in 1:1 less rotational mass=good..same thing w/ 1:18?)

Derigor

Welcome! A fellow subaru lover! I have a WRX sport wagon

Lemme see if I can help out a bit...
Shimming the diffs referes to putting thin washers on one side of the diff. It's how you set the gear mesh between the diff gear and the input gear. The kit should come with plenty of them 2 is the stock recommended amount of shims but due to differences in the plastic gearbox (flex over time and what not) it might be necessary to add more.

As far as two sets of super diffs being needed, they probably arnt. Alot of people run high end brushless systems on the stock diffs. I do plan on putting 2 in my car once I snag some CVD's.

The exotek slipper is a slipper clutch. Adds a clutch pad to the spur gear. Should help on drive train wear and offer more tunability. Dont think you need the slipper, more of a preference part. My old race buggies always had slippers, might pick one up if you are going to be doing alot of heavy jumping.

FR&RR CF shock towers... if I had to guess I would say front and rear. Got a link to the particular ones you are talking about?

Delrin is a self lubricating plastic. It's a great alternative to metal gears or basic plastic gears. Delrin is usually very strong. www.thetoyz.com I have one on my car, love it.

You nailed the graphite center shaft. Although I am not concerned about rotational mass of my car (my center shaft is aluminum), I am not hardcore racing. Most brushless motors are so over powered in these cars that rotational mass is negligible. It's like worrying about the rotational mass on a funny car if you were to drive it to the grocery store. Now you do want a strong center shaft because you are going to be putting alot of power through it. The last thing you want is it flexing and slapping around inside your chassis like a plastic center shaft would.

side note. rc18r kamino body is an sti! your probably going to need one, or the body shell to build a rally car out of.

Derigor

Now for my own question

any of you guys have problems with the HS-65mg? more specifically mounting problems. If I mount it using the little servo posts in the stock holes it is too far back from the bell crank. So I moved it forward and used servo tape to hold it down. Yea not so good. Damn servo has so much torque it flexes the servo tape. So I put one of those mounting posts in and screwed a really long screw through it and the servo to try to stop it from moving so much. works better but not well enough. Cant get a screw through the mounting post and the servo on the drive shaft side.

You guys know of any servo mounts that fit the rc18 and hs-65mg servos well? something akin to the stock servo mounting piece would be awesome if it just fit the 65mg.

westphill24

I have that servo but mine matched up perfect, you could either drill new holes where you think they should be or look around your hardware store for something to make a hold down with. I saw a pic of a guy that used the 81mg and he made his hold down, Ill see if I can find it.