westphill24

Ive been having diff problems and steering problems with my 18t so I decided to tear it down. I went to check out the diffs and [X(] the balls started falling out the back. I decided to just take the whole thing apart and the washers that go on the adjusting side of the diff where broken and mangled. I still havent figured out what my steering issue is but since it was given to me I always had one. Are those metal servo rings good or should I try the aluminum parts? I have the dp draglink but that didnt help my issue.

calvino

metal rings = huge disapointment, don't get them, use the base of a spring over the servo saver as a "better option" and it will cost you next to nothing

westphill24

Yeah Ive seen people say that about the spring working. But the spring from what? I have never seen a pic of anyones so I was never sure how that worked.

MORNINGSTAR

okay, so right outta the box here (i dont even have the rc18mt yet) i want to just hop it up a bit.

i like the price of the Orion baja, but what else would i have to change to accomidate that motor? (diffs, gears etc)

also, what are the best batteries i can stick in it w/o changing all the connections and jazz? id like to get a few

emidyl

I too have got many parts from Toyz.

Wanted to know if the all metal steering assembly gets rid of the slop as well as the drag link with the original two steering arm portions.

I ordered the part as well as the drag link. However I am not using the metal link arm that came with it and instead using the drag link. Works amazing but what wouldn't considering how bad the originals are.

Just hate to have to take it all apart again to experiment.

Thanks

wolffcub

I have 3 frames and I’m converting them all to the drag link upgrade from the metal steering assembly. The metal ones do have a considerable amount to slop in them. You can mod them a bit by taking a file and taking down the bolt sleeves a bit but if you go too far they will not pivot freely. The drag link setup I have has zero slop what so ever.

westphill24

So you have thr aluminum servo saver and your using the dp draglink? I just want to be sure before I order it.

wolffcub

i will post a pic when i get home

wolffcub

I know my pic I posted a while ago shows aluminum arms and such but that’s my BLING car. stay away form the aluminum arms and C hubs. I only use the aluminum front and read knuckles. With a heat gun, drill and a bit of time you can make your entire suspension assembly have absolutely little to no play in it, and the arms and C hubs will not bend up in a minor crash. I have twisted 3 C hubs during the last 2 times out. With the drag like now on one of my cars I cant believe how tight the steering is.

calvino

the DP draglink is better than the aluminum "stock" steering assembly[8D], aluminum one is the same lame design[>:]

Spiro

On the topic of steering slop, drag links, servo savers, etc... last night I had a chance to spend some time on the cars so I addressed some of these issues on my RC18B's

Installed Driven Productions (DP) Drag Link
Modified servo saver with addition of a spring coil
Installed Driven Productions Gear Cover
Shimmed dogbone springs with some #0 washers

The DP Drag Link cut down the steering slop drastically, as advertised. Wrapping a coil of an appropriately sized spring around the servo saver C-Clip took all the slop out of that while still allowing the servo saver to function in a hard hit. Between those two modifications the steering is finally pretty decent.

The DP Gear Cover is fantastic. I have no idea why the original parts weren't molded like this. I run on dirt and was constantly getting little rocks stuck in the spur gear. No more!

Those dang dog bones kept clicking or wanting to pop out. Particularly the front ones, while turning and under power. The diff is asymmetric and as a result one dog bone will fit tighter on one side of the car than the other by several mm. The loose one was always prone to problems. I thought about getting some MIP CVD's which would surely solve the problem, but I have 4 cars and at $20 per pair for CVD's that adds up fast! For now I have shimmed the loose side of the diff with a couple of #0 washers under the dog bone springs. If it works, I will let you know.

I took a few pictures while I was doing the work. They are available at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffrot...7608666147774/
along with some notes if anybody is interested.

Spiro

chadr

I have the stock xps esc (#29136) and I have not been able to use reverse - it is forward/brake only at the moment. The instructions state to hold down the button while turning on the power. This doesn't seem to do anything. I am able to enter the esc setup by holding the button after the power is on, and it goes through the sequence to set neutral, full throttle, and full reverse. Any suggestions?

westphill24

Another good cure for the the front dogbones is using small slices of fuel tubing instead of the springs. That way you get to measure how long you want them to be.

Spiro

WestPhill24,

Now that's a good idea! Thanks much. I like that better than springs/washers. I will give that a try tonight.

Spiro

calvino

as for the ESC, make shure you use something LARGE enough to hold the "set" button down, then turn on the ESC, it will blink, then remove the item holding down the switch, that should fix it[8D]

Spiro

So the fuel tubing replacing the dog bone springs worked great.
The DP gear covers did their job very well.
The DP drag link got the steering tightened up nicely.
The spring coil wrapped around the servo saver was a bit too much!

One of the cars took a hit that wiped out the servo gears. I will select a weaker spring than the one I am using and try again. I think the spring I had was so tight that the servo saver was effectively locked up. While I wait for some replacement servo gears to show up, I thought I would see what people were using for servos in their cars.

What do you recommend for a metal gear servo?

Thanks much,
Spiro

guaged

i hate my rc18mt. it suxs baddd[:@] it never stops breaking. i need a 10th scale again. i think i'll get a b4. they seem to do pretty wel on the track.
but does anyone have problems with their cars? mine breakes all the time.
whadda pain in the butt.

patatchim

guaged -> get an xray :X

My rc18b lasted for 2 months of almost daily use. Only thing that went wrong was the clicking noise on the diff gear.

calvino

if you smash it real hard, it will break, drive reallll hard and it will break, common sense right, IMO your not driving correctly or something, still lovin mine, its sitting right now because im to lazy to replace my spur gear (to busy with track....)

Mousesi2k

havent touched mine in about 2 weeks =( still gonna be another 2 before i get the spektrum gear to solve all my issues x_x

MORNINGSTAR

stock, how long does the lil crappy charger take to fully charge a stock battery?

westphill24

Go on ebay and get a peak charger for like 10 bucks, it will be well worth it. I heard they take about 8 hours to charge.

MORNINGSTAR

ahh weaksauce.

adnabbit.

its like $160,,,,, $200,,,,,$3000 ahhh WTH lol

Spiro

Stock Trickle Chargers.

So I have a small pile of batteries I use for the 4 cars we are running. I would like to get some more of the stock wall-wart trickle chargers for cheep/free, so I can trickle charge more of the batteries over night. I also have several decent peak chargers I use on a regular basis, but that is not what I am after. If you still have your old trickle charger sitting unused in a box somewhere and would like to send it to a better home instead of the landfill, drop me a PM. I am looking for ~8 of the stock wall-wart trickle chargers. Every one helps!

Thanks much in advance,
Spiro

Mousesi2k

i should have 2-3 of them. lemme see if i can locate them. i'll send ya a pm if so