OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
Hey Steve, About the droop on your rpm arms. RPM states that after a couple of runs the arms should start falling more smoothly. Guess you just have to break em in.
Also Maxxin, (I think that was you) asking about which wt oil to use so your chassis doesnt slap... well it's not really the oil. Its your springs. You need stiffer springs to keep that from happening. You can run stiffer springs or preload your springs (or both). Also the bigger the angle you have on your springs the more it should help with jumping too.
You can run the 50wt oil in there also, but the shock oil should be for fine tuning your suspension.
Also Maxxin, (I think that was you) asking about which wt oil to use so your chassis doesnt slap... well it's not really the oil. Its your springs. You need stiffer springs to keep that from happening. You can run stiffer springs or preload your springs (or both). Also the bigger the angle you have on your springs the more it should help with jumping too.
You can run the 50wt oil in there also, but the shock oil should be for fine tuning your suspension.
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
Hey guy i just have an quick question for the shock towers whats the difference between the B and the T i want to mount an truck body on the B is that possable?????
#2257
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
Ordered parts are starting to trickle in for my RC18MT. Got the RPM arms and mounts today. The hinge pins fit a little loose on the arms. I assume it will get snug once installed though as it states on the instruction sheet. Anyone have a close up pic of the 'hinge-pin retainer clamps' installed?
Also, is there any benefit (other than looks) by going to alum gearboxes? I was reading somewhere that the alum gearboxes and Steel Input/Diff gears (from TheToyz) + Super MIP diffs do not play well together, won't fit or something?
Tx.
Also, is there any benefit (other than looks) by going to alum gearboxes? I was reading somewhere that the alum gearboxes and Steel Input/Diff gears (from TheToyz) + Super MIP diffs do not play well together, won't fit or something?
Tx.
#2259
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
Hey guys, I just ordered up a couple of RC18R's the other day from Omnimodels for $134 each with free shipping and $20 off for orders over $200. So I got a pretty good deal.
If you look WAY back in this thread you can see that I had an RC18T a LONG time ago, converted it to a MT at one point.
I hope you will forgive me, I am going to act like a newbee for a minute and ask some questions that have probably already been answered in this thread. I would love to read through this whole thread, and I will someday, but righ now I need to leave for my second job and need some answers.
I need to keep both cars the same for the races between my son and I to be fair.
Do they still make a 380 motor mount for this chassis? Link?
What are the absolute necessary upgrades to be considered?
I know I will need Steel adjustable turnbuckles and the aluminum steering drag link to get rid of the slop.
Cool! They have RPM parts for these? I love RPM stuff
Thanks
If you look WAY back in this thread you can see that I had an RC18T a LONG time ago, converted it to a MT at one point.
I hope you will forgive me, I am going to act like a newbee for a minute and ask some questions that have probably already been answered in this thread. I would love to read through this whole thread, and I will someday, but righ now I need to leave for my second job and need some answers.
I need to keep both cars the same for the races between my son and I to be fair.
Do they still make a 380 motor mount for this chassis? Link?
What are the absolute necessary upgrades to be considered?
I know I will need Steel adjustable turnbuckles and the aluminum steering drag link to get rid of the slop.
Cool! They have RPM parts for these? I love RPM stuff
Thanks
#2260
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
Tons of RPM stuff for these cars.
a bit less for the R version though I think.
Get the DP draglink and gearcovers stat!
I havnt found a 380 motor mount, but I fit my 380 in grinding down the top-plate.
other than maybe a bumper, should be covered. Cars are fun out of the box, I have two bone stock for spec racing at the LHS if I ever get off my butt and drive down there... its just like 40 miles. Houston is too big imo.
a bit less for the R version though I think.
Get the DP draglink and gearcovers stat!
I havnt found a 380 motor mount, but I fit my 380 in grinding down the top-plate.
other than maybe a bumper, should be covered. Cars are fun out of the box, I have two bone stock for spec racing at the LHS if I ever get off my butt and drive down there... its just like 40 miles. Houston is too big imo.
#2262
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
actually the wide bumper does fit the rc18R
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...ts.htm#18TBump
which is all you really need unless you are getting insane.
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...ts.htm#18TBump
which is all you really need unless you are getting insane.
#2263
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
stock is a 380 motor mount, use the DP draglink to take out the steering "mush" ([:'(]), RPM makes tons of indestructable bits for these cars, the DP gear cover is also nice, don't know what your running on though [>:]
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
if you run your car on earth you should get the gear cover, but you have to modify it if you have the FT motor mount. something I am reluctant to do. because I am lazy.
#2267
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
Easy way around not using the gear cover is to flip the diffs around, and reverse the motor rotation - that way rocks are pushed up against gravity. Don't really get rock issues this way.
Steel turnbuckles don't get rid of slop really.
The problem with slop comes from
1 - the servo saver. Even hitec's has a little.
2 - the crank setup. I think if it were like (gasp) propulse, it would have had better steering.
There really isn't any slop from the plastic links - and they're probably more durable. Steel AE turnbuckles shattered like a glass plate for me. Go titanium, or stick with plastic. Steel doesn't handle bending very well.
I've "shown interest" in the propulse infront my wife while at radioshack - so I should be getting one soon ^_^
But Wheelnut! Dude! why not an me16mt? Your review is #5 on google for me16mt!
Steel turnbuckles don't get rid of slop really.
The problem with slop comes from
1 - the servo saver. Even hitec's has a little.
2 - the crank setup. I think if it were like (gasp) propulse, it would have had better steering.
There really isn't any slop from the plastic links - and they're probably more durable. Steel AE turnbuckles shattered like a glass plate for me. Go titanium, or stick with plastic. Steel doesn't handle bending very well.
I've "shown interest" in the propulse infront my wife while at radioshack - so I should be getting one soon ^_^
But Wheelnut! Dude! why not an me16mt? Your review is #5 on google for me16mt!
#2270
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
Thanks guys,
Calvino, I realized it had a 380 size motor mount last night when I was reading up on AE site to see if it came with ball bearings (glad it does) and I read it had a 380 size motor. I felt goofy, for some reason I thought it had a 280 size motor. So that is good news. Who had to trim the motor mount to fit what motor?
We will be running on road, so I will probably get the steel turnbuckles and use RPM ball cups on them.
Beomagi, The ME16MT was a fun project and it ran great. The purpose of that truck was to have a smaller monster truck and a bigger mini truck, so it fit the bill perfectly.
Now we are going to run Rally cars, so the ME is larger than what we were looking for in a rally car. Yes I know they make a ME16 rally. Also it is too difficult to track down after market parts for it. You have to find an after market part for another RC model that just happens to fit. And that means not many will fit and it looks like there will not be after market A arms.
Calvino, I realized it had a 380 size motor mount last night when I was reading up on AE site to see if it came with ball bearings (glad it does) and I read it had a 380 size motor. I felt goofy, for some reason I thought it had a 280 size motor. So that is good news. Who had to trim the motor mount to fit what motor?
We will be running on road, so I will probably get the steel turnbuckles and use RPM ball cups on them.
Beomagi, The ME16MT was a fun project and it ran great. The purpose of that truck was to have a smaller monster truck and a bigger mini truck, so it fit the bill perfectly.
Now we are going to run Rally cars, so the ME is larger than what we were looking for in a rally car. Yes I know they make a ME16 rally. Also it is too difficult to track down after market parts for it. You have to find an after market part for another RC model that just happens to fit. And that means not many will fit and it looks like there will not be after market A arms.
#2271
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
ORIGINAL: UPGRADE88
I know that RPM is a realy good brand but is it worth the money win you can just buy $3 stock parts???????
I know that RPM is a realy good brand but is it worth the money win you can just buy $3 stock parts???????
We are in Annandale VA
#2273
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RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
they never break. ever. and if by some cosmic event (cosmic event as in a friggin meteor hitting it) that it does, they have a lifetime warranty.
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