OFFICIAL Detta ST THREAD **********
#1926
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: dana point,
CA
Posts: 3,947
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: DettaSCT
I have read your posts on other forums trashing the Mongoose systems, and then it appeared you disappeared for a while. Welcome back to the hobby.
But in your absense what everyone found was that there was an issue with the original Mongoose motors overheating, BUT that has long since been solved and tons of guys are using them without any problems. Then again, most of us don't overgear them as you appear to prefer.
Gearing is one of those things some people don't understand; some are under the opinion that gearing is about having the car topping out at the end of the straightway. That is fine if you are drag racing, but offroad/onroad racing your car is supposed to be topping out somewhere about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the straightaway.
Overmotoring is another thing. Again, it's fine if you are just drag racing or doing speed runs. But offroad/onroad racing is about matching the proper motor to the track you are running and not just bolting in the biggest motor you have on hand. It just leads to spinning your tires and wearing them out fast.
The other thing is that your only experience with these mini's is with running on huge tracks and leaping your cars 10 feet in the air, which few people do, and running crazy-speed NEU motors which really have no parallel to what the majority of people do with their mini's that aren't out to abuse them.
Perhaps it time you catch up with the current tech and talk, and not hold on to your 2-year-old ideas that are quite honestly outdated.
Out of all the races I've attended, I have never seen anyone run a NEU motor (at least that didn't run in the back because they couldn't control them) and out of all the people that I've heard having purchased a Mongoose in the last year or so no one has had the issues you had (unless they overgeared them). Maybe it's time you get up to speed with the rest of everybody. I run on a track that is the size of a basketball court, plenty large, and ran all season without a single issue or overheating problem.
If your thing is still speed runs up and down your street in front of your house or drag racing or showing off, that's cool. But it's not typical for 1/18th racing.
ORIGINAL: jaejw1
i think the mongoose would be fine in the detta for smaller tracks,, or 18th scale tracks,, but not anything large,, i had a tough time keeping the one i had cool.. and that was gearing it as high as i could to not burn the motor out.. but that was just my experience with it.... it is faster than stock though and much smoother than my NEU/mamba max combo (which actually blows the doors off any other motor i have tried.. and stays much cooler.)
ORIGINAL: DettaSCT
new here - the ''Goose'' is a marvelous BL system for these mini cars and trucks, especially the Dettas, and put all the other foreign no-name brands to shame. get yourself a lipo pack and you'll really luv it.
ORIGINAL: quads4_life
Well I went ahead and got the mongoose 13.5 and I have to say I am very pleased I am running the stock spur with a 14t pinion. With a 6cell nimh it still wheelies but is still controlable. I have to say I am pleased. I ran a full 1200 battery out over about 20 min and the esc and motor were warm and not even hot
Well I went ahead and got the mongoose 13.5 and I have to say I am very pleased I am running the stock spur with a 14t pinion. With a 6cell nimh it still wheelies but is still controlable. I have to say I am pleased. I ran a full 1200 battery out over about 20 min and the esc and motor were warm and not even hot
new here - the ''Goose'' is a marvelous BL system for these mini cars and trucks, especially the Dettas, and put all the other foreign no-name brands to shame. get yourself a lipo pack and you'll really luv it.
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But in your absense what everyone found was that there was an issue with the original Mongoose motors overheating, BUT that has long since been solved and tons of guys are using them without any problems. Then again, most of us don't overgear them as you appear to prefer.
Gearing is one of those things some people don't understand; some are under the opinion that gearing is about having the car topping out at the end of the straightway. That is fine if you are drag racing, but offroad/onroad racing your car is supposed to be topping out somewhere about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the straightaway.
Overmotoring is another thing. Again, it's fine if you are just drag racing or doing speed runs. But offroad/onroad racing is about matching the proper motor to the track you are running and not just bolting in the biggest motor you have on hand. It just leads to spinning your tires and wearing them out fast.
The other thing is that your only experience with these mini's is with running on huge tracks and leaping your cars 10 feet in the air, which few people do, and running crazy-speed NEU motors which really have no parallel to what the majority of people do with their mini's that aren't out to abuse them.
Perhaps it time you catch up with the current tech and talk, and not hold on to your 2-year-old ideas that are quite honestly outdated.
Out of all the races I've attended, I have never seen anyone run a NEU motor (at least that didn't run in the back because they couldn't control them) and out of all the people that I've heard having purchased a Mongoose in the last year or so no one has had the issues you had (unless they overgeared them). Maybe it's time you get up to speed with the rest of everybody. I run on a track that is the size of a basketball court, plenty large, and ran all season without a single issue or overheating problem.
If your thing is still speed runs up and down your street in front of your house or drag racing or showing off, that's cool. But it's not typical for 1/18th racing.
i ran the 13.5 as mentioned before.. and as i stated before.. it is a very smooth machine.. and with the gearing i was using i couldnt stop the motor or esc from over heating.. if i recall corretly i was using an 12/45 gearing..
im fully aware of back straights and gearing.. and when your motor should top out... im not some kid that goes out and just tries to drag race everyone.. although it may seem that way in my videos... i had the power to pull away or catch up so i used it.. and also the power was needed to clear doubles or triples... the same way everyone else was doing... i would watch the pro guys race.. i would study their lines and what they figured was the fastest way around the track and i would copy that.. if they took triples then i would.. if they duoble-single or single-double then i would do the same.. if they found a faster way through a rythmn section then i would do the same.... i enjoyed racing and i tried my best to stay out of other ppls way... no one ever complained about me being on the tracks..
as far as getting 10 feet in the air.. im not sure if i ever bot my detta that high.. but if i did atleast i was able to control it enough to land it with no problems,, just like everyone else.. i jumped just as high and just as far as everyone else on the track..
also a basketball size court is pretty big.. about the size as the 10th scale track i run on...
just for fun have you ever taken your detta on a larger track ,,, just to see what it could really do.... yes it is a 18th scale ,, but there is no need to lmit it to just 18th scale tracks... 10th scale guys dont limit themselves to ONLY 10th scale tracks,, they also run on 8th scale tracks..
this hobby is about having fun.. and no "one" system is the end all be all... i love my NEU motor.. it has stayed cool under pressure and has given me the power and speed that i need whenever i ask for it.. the mongoose came short.. but it was extremely smooth.. also the NEU 1105/1.5y is not the only motor that is made.. there is a complete line in the 1105 series and the 1107 series.. more options to choose from..
here is also a review i did on diff gears.. the steel ones... for qoisdhc oqina
http://thetoyz.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7814&hl=
there is a thread somewhere in this forum but i cant seem to find it
#1927
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: jaejw1
as i stated before.. the mongoose seems to be fine on a smaller track 18th scale... i dont have the luxury of driving on one so i drive on 10th scales.. also.. i have meet with and talked with others that have run the mongoose and had it geared with the mallest pinion that would fit and the largest spur they could use... and they still had over heating issues..
i ran the 13.5 as mentioned before.. and as i stated before.. it is a very smooth machine.. and with the gearing i was using i couldnt stop the motor or esc from over heating.. if i recall corretly i was using an 12/45 gearing..
im fully aware of back straights and gearing.. and when your motor should top out... im not some kid that goes out and just tries to drag race everyone.. although it may seem that way in my videos... i had the power to pull away or catch up so i used it.. and also the power was needed to clear doubles or triples... the same way everyone else was doing... i would watch the pro guys race.. i would study their lines and what they figured was the fastest way around the track and i would copy that.. if they took triples then i would.. if they duoble-single or single-double then i would do the same.. if they found a faster way through a rythmn section then i would do the same.... i enjoyed racing and i tried my best to stay out of other ppls way... no one ever complained about me being on the tracks..
as far as getting 10 feet in the air.. im not sure if i ever bot my detta that high.. but if i did atleast i was able to control it enough to land it with no problems,, just like everyone else.. i jumped just as high and just as far as everyone else on the track..
also a basketball size court is pretty big.. about the size as the 10th scale track i run on...
just for fun have you ever taken your detta on a larger track ,,, just to see what it could really do.... yes it is a 18th scale ,, but there is no need to lmit it to just 18th scale tracks... 10th scale guys dont limit themselves to ONLY 10th scale tracks,, they also run on 8th scale tracks..
this hobby is about having fun.. and no ''one'' system is the end all be all... i love my NEU motor.. it has stayed cool under pressure and has given me the power and speed that i need whenever i ask for it.. the mongoose came short.. but it was extremely smooth.. also the NEU 1105/1.5y is not the only motor that is made.. there is a complete line in the 1105 series and the 1107 series.. more options to choose from..
here is also a review i did on diff gears.. the steel ones... for qoisdhc oqina
http://thetoyz.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7814&hl=
there is a thread somewhere in this forum but i cant seem to find it
ORIGINAL: DettaSCT
I have read your posts on other forums trashing the Mongoose systems, and then it appeared you disappeared for a while. Welcome back to the hobby.
But in your absense what everyone found was that there was an issue with the original Mongoose motors overheating, BUT that has long since been solved and tons of guys are using them without any problems. Then again, most of us don't overgear them as you appear to prefer.
Gearing is one of those things some people don't understand; some are under the opinion that gearing is about having the car topping out at the end of the straightway. That is fine if you are drag racing, but offroad/onroad racing your car is supposed to be topping out somewhere about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the straightaway.
Overmotoring is another thing. Again, it's fine if you are just drag racing or doing speed runs. But offroad/onroad racing is about matching the proper motor to the track you are running and not just bolting in the biggest motor you have on hand. It just leads to spinning your tires and wearing them out fast.
The other thing is that your only experience with these mini's is with running on huge tracks and leaping your cars 10 feet in the air, which few people do, and running crazy-speed NEU motors which really have no parallel to what the majority of people do with their mini's that aren't out to abuse them.
Perhaps it time you catch up with the current tech and talk, and not hold on to your 2-year-old ideas that are quite honestly outdated.
Out of all the races I've attended, I have never seen anyone run a NEU motor (at least that didn't run in the back because they couldn't control them) and out of all the people that I've heard having purchased a Mongoose in the last year or so no one has had the issues you had (unless they overgeared them). Maybe it's time you get up to speed with the rest of everybody. I run on a track that is the size of a basketball court, plenty large, and ran all season without a single issue or overheating problem.
If your thing is still speed runs up and down your street in front of your house or drag racing or showing off, that's cool. But it's not typical for 1/18th racing.
ORIGINAL: jaejw1
i think the mongoose would be fine in the detta for smaller tracks,, or 18th scale tracks,, but not anything large,, i had a tough time keeping the one i had cool.. and that was gearing it as high as i could to not burn the motor out.. but that was just my experience with it.... it is faster than stock though and much smoother than my NEU/mamba max combo (which actually blows the doors off any other motor i have tried.. and stays much cooler.)
ORIGINAL: DettaSCT
new here - the ''Goose'' is a marvelous BL system for these mini cars and trucks, especially the Dettas, and put all the other foreign no-name brands to shame. get yourself a lipo pack and you'll really luv it.
ORIGINAL: quads4_life
Well I went ahead and got the mongoose 13.5 and I have to say I am very pleased I am running the stock spur with a 14t pinion. With a 6cell nimh it still wheelies but is still controlable. I have to say I am pleased. I ran a full 1200 battery out over about 20 min and the esc and motor were warm and not even hot
Well I went ahead and got the mongoose 13.5 and I have to say I am very pleased I am running the stock spur with a 14t pinion. With a 6cell nimh it still wheelies but is still controlable. I have to say I am pleased. I ran a full 1200 battery out over about 20 min and the esc and motor were warm and not even hot
new here - the ''Goose'' is a marvelous BL system for these mini cars and trucks, especially the Dettas, and put all the other foreign no-name brands to shame. get yourself a lipo pack and you'll really luv it.
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But in your absense what everyone found was that there was an issue with the original Mongoose motors overheating, BUT that has long since been solved and tons of guys are using them without any problems. Then again, most of us don't overgear them as you appear to prefer.
Gearing is one of those things some people don't understand; some are under the opinion that gearing is about having the car topping out at the end of the straightway. That is fine if you are drag racing, but offroad/onroad racing your car is supposed to be topping out somewhere about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the straightaway.
Overmotoring is another thing. Again, it's fine if you are just drag racing or doing speed runs. But offroad/onroad racing is about matching the proper motor to the track you are running and not just bolting in the biggest motor you have on hand. It just leads to spinning your tires and wearing them out fast.
The other thing is that your only experience with these mini's is with running on huge tracks and leaping your cars 10 feet in the air, which few people do, and running crazy-speed NEU motors which really have no parallel to what the majority of people do with their mini's that aren't out to abuse them.
Perhaps it time you catch up with the current tech and talk, and not hold on to your 2-year-old ideas that are quite honestly outdated.
Out of all the races I've attended, I have never seen anyone run a NEU motor (at least that didn't run in the back because they couldn't control them) and out of all the people that I've heard having purchased a Mongoose in the last year or so no one has had the issues you had (unless they overgeared them). Maybe it's time you get up to speed with the rest of everybody. I run on a track that is the size of a basketball court, plenty large, and ran all season without a single issue or overheating problem.
If your thing is still speed runs up and down your street in front of your house or drag racing or showing off, that's cool. But it's not typical for 1/18th racing.
i ran the 13.5 as mentioned before.. and as i stated before.. it is a very smooth machine.. and with the gearing i was using i couldnt stop the motor or esc from over heating.. if i recall corretly i was using an 12/45 gearing..
im fully aware of back straights and gearing.. and when your motor should top out... im not some kid that goes out and just tries to drag race everyone.. although it may seem that way in my videos... i had the power to pull away or catch up so i used it.. and also the power was needed to clear doubles or triples... the same way everyone else was doing... i would watch the pro guys race.. i would study their lines and what they figured was the fastest way around the track and i would copy that.. if they took triples then i would.. if they duoble-single or single-double then i would do the same.. if they found a faster way through a rythmn section then i would do the same.... i enjoyed racing and i tried my best to stay out of other ppls way... no one ever complained about me being on the tracks..
as far as getting 10 feet in the air.. im not sure if i ever bot my detta that high.. but if i did atleast i was able to control it enough to land it with no problems,, just like everyone else.. i jumped just as high and just as far as everyone else on the track..
also a basketball size court is pretty big.. about the size as the 10th scale track i run on...
just for fun have you ever taken your detta on a larger track ,,, just to see what it could really do.... yes it is a 18th scale ,, but there is no need to lmit it to just 18th scale tracks... 10th scale guys dont limit themselves to ONLY 10th scale tracks,, they also run on 8th scale tracks..
this hobby is about having fun.. and no ''one'' system is the end all be all... i love my NEU motor.. it has stayed cool under pressure and has given me the power and speed that i need whenever i ask for it.. the mongoose came short.. but it was extremely smooth.. also the NEU 1105/1.5y is not the only motor that is made.. there is a complete line in the 1105 series and the 1107 series.. more options to choose from..
here is also a review i did on diff gears.. the steel ones... for qoisdhc oqina
http://thetoyz.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7814&hl=
there is a thread somewhere in this forum but i cant seem to find it
I was not trying to suggest you were "some kid," but honestly some of your ideas and concepts make it sound that way. I am not saying that to insult you, just being realistic.
You mentioned following what the pros did, but what puzzles me was that instead of stepping up and doing it with a 1/10th scale so you could have an accurate comparison you chose instead on continuing to try and do it with your 1/18th. I am not sure either that you should be bragging about landing jumps, because the vids that I saw showed a lot of crashes and overshot landing. Way too many to be competitive. As I said, yes I have taken my Detta on a larger track. One of the tracks I run is the size of a basketball court, so comperable to 1/10th scale size.
You are correct, there is no "one" system as an end all be all, but if that is what you believe then why is it that any time anyone mentions any other system that you have to log in and suggest they are wrong based on your 2+ year old test results?
#1928
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: dana point,
CA
Posts: 3,947
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: DettaSCT
Please jae, give it a rest. Your info is dated. As I said, read around the forums and check with other real racers and you will see that nobody's having any overheating issues. The more checking I did on other forums, the only person making any noise about it was you.
You mentioned following what the pros did, but what puzzles me was that instead of stepping up and doing it with a 1/10th scale so you could have an accurate comparison you chose instead on continuing to try and do it with your 1/18th. I am not sure either that you should be bragging about landing jumps, because the vids that I saw showed a lot of crashes and overshot landing. Way too many to be competitive. As I said, yes I have taken my Detta on a larger track. One of the tracks I run is the size of a basketball court, so comperable to 1/10th scale size.
You are correct, there is no ''one'' system as an end all be all, but if that is what you believe then why is it that any time anyone mentions any other system that you have to log in and suggest they are wrong based on your 2+ year old test results?
Please jae, give it a rest. Your info is dated. As I said, read around the forums and check with other real racers and you will see that nobody's having any overheating issues. The more checking I did on other forums, the only person making any noise about it was you.
You mentioned following what the pros did, but what puzzles me was that instead of stepping up and doing it with a 1/10th scale so you could have an accurate comparison you chose instead on continuing to try and do it with your 1/18th. I am not sure either that you should be bragging about landing jumps, because the vids that I saw showed a lot of crashes and overshot landing. Way too many to be competitive. As I said, yes I have taken my Detta on a larger track. One of the tracks I run is the size of a basketball court, so comperable to 1/10th scale size.
You are correct, there is no ''one'' system as an end all be all, but if that is what you believe then why is it that any time anyone mentions any other system that you have to log in and suggest they are wrong based on your 2+ year old test results?
and yes my reviews are outdated.. but im sure its still a good reference for others starting out.. and if not,, then i apologize for the confusion.... since owning the detta i have done nothing but try to help others..
all my reviews are my reviews.. my opinions thats it.. just like any other review out there.. did the mongoose work for me and what i drive on .. NO,, did it work for others and what they drive on YES.. did others that share my experience with larger dirt tracks share my opinion YES...
and not everyone drives perfectly on dirt.. if they did there wouldnt be a beginner class or intermediate class ...
i enjoy the 18th scale class. and have raced other minis on the same size track,, but since there are not any 18th scale racers out here.. and since i love the size,, i ask if i can race with the 10th scalers ... am i perfect when i drive.. no but practice isnt the same as racing and dirt isnt the same as asphalt nor is asphalt the same as carpet nor is carpet the same as dirt.. every surface has their own demons... and dirt suffers from an uneven, unpredictable, unsmooth, loose surface... where you try to find that fast line to drive in and avoid obstacles that the dirt will offer up.. as well as the ever changing faces of jumps and landings.. carpet/asphalt is something i have no desire to run on. i know i couldnt do it.. very fast pace smooth enviroment and attention to detail is crucial, i applaud you guys..
with that my last statement will be this and im done with the conversation.. this hobby is about having fun .. whereever and whenever.. everyone has their choice of surface to run on... there are bashers.. and racers,, and then you have sub categories with each.. its all about having fun and respecting others opinons and choice of where they have their fun...
i will continue to run what i have and enjoy doing so..
#1929
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: jaejw1
and yes my reviews are outdated.. but im sure its still a good reference for others starting out.. and if not,, then i apologize for the confusion.... since owning the detta i have done nothing but try to help others..
all my reviews are my reviews.. my opinions thats it.. just like any other review out there.. did the mongoose work for me and what i drive on .. NO,, did it work for others and what they drive on YES.. did others that share my experience with larger dirt tracks share my opinion YES...
and yes my reviews are outdated.. but im sure its still a good reference for others starting out.. and if not,, then i apologize for the confusion.... since owning the detta i have done nothing but try to help others..
all my reviews are my reviews.. my opinions thats it.. just like any other review out there.. did the mongoose work for me and what i drive on .. NO,, did it work for others and what they drive on YES.. did others that share my experience with larger dirt tracks share my opinion YES...
ORIGINAL: jaejw1
i enjoy the 18th scale class. and have raced other minis on the same size track,, but since there are not any 18th scale racers out here.. and since i love the size,, i ask if i can race with the 10th scalers ... am i perfect when i drive.. no but practice isnt the same as racing and dirt isnt the same as asphalt nor is asphalt the same as carpet nor is carpet the same as dirt.. every surface has their own demons... and dirt suffers from an uneven, unpredictable, unsmooth, loose surface... where you try to find that fast line to drive in and avoid obstacles that the dirt will offer up.. as well as the ever changing faces of jumps and landings.. carpet/asphalt is something i have no desire to run on. i know i couldnt do it.. very fast pace smooth enviroment and attention to detail is crucial, i applaud you guys..
with that my last statement will be this and im done with the conversation.. this hobby is about having fun .. whereever and whenever.. everyone has their choice of surface to run on... there are bashers.. and racers,, and then you have sub categories with each.. its all about having fun and respecting others opinons and choice of where they have their fun...
i will continue to run what i have and enjoy doing so..
i enjoy the 18th scale class. and have raced other minis on the same size track,, but since there are not any 18th scale racers out here.. and since i love the size,, i ask if i can race with the 10th scalers ... am i perfect when i drive.. no but practice isnt the same as racing and dirt isnt the same as asphalt nor is asphalt the same as carpet nor is carpet the same as dirt.. every surface has their own demons... and dirt suffers from an uneven, unpredictable, unsmooth, loose surface... where you try to find that fast line to drive in and avoid obstacles that the dirt will offer up.. as well as the ever changing faces of jumps and landings.. carpet/asphalt is something i have no desire to run on. i know i couldnt do it.. very fast pace smooth enviroment and attention to detail is crucial, i applaud you guys..
with that my last statement will be this and im done with the conversation.. this hobby is about having fun .. whereever and whenever.. everyone has their choice of surface to run on... there are bashers.. and racers,, and then you have sub categories with each.. its all about having fun and respecting others opinons and choice of where they have their fun...
i will continue to run what i have and enjoy doing so..
They do better on some surfaces rather than others, but as long as one is running against other 18ths then all's fair. Only problem is trying to run with 10th scalers; then you either become a speed bump, get in the way, or look like a Cessna getting on the taxi ramp at LAX with the 747s. But that's why we have different classes, to make things fair for everyone on the track and not just those with single-minded obsessions.
Again, if you want to respect my opinion as you suggest you do, then the next time I post some mongoose-related info please just pass it by and reserve your dated comments to one in which someone's asking about a Neu.
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#1930
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Valrico,
FL
Posts: 922
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys...
Check out my ads - i'm selling all my stock - brand new - Detta electronics, plus the battery and charger and the servo. Motor, ESC, Receiver, Transmitter, Servo, Battery, Charger
All new - all for 60.00
PM me for more details
Joe
Check out my ads - i'm selling all my stock - brand new - Detta electronics, plus the battery and charger and the servo. Motor, ESC, Receiver, Transmitter, Servo, Battery, Charger
All new - all for 60.00
PM me for more details
Joe
#1931
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seminole,
FL
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sounds like someone really likes their Mongoose.
I tried the 10.5 when they first came out, but I was disappointed so I sold it. I recently got an 8.5 in a deal, and my EZRun/CM26 absolutely puts it to shame in every way. Well, I guess the Novak has a little more top speed when geared accordingly, but then it runs hot. Either way the speed is close enough that on a typical 18th scale track the EZRun/CM26 is just as fast. Plus the EZRun ESC and Castle motor do not get hot at all under any circumstance that I can configure. Runtime is pathetic with the 8.5, less than 15 minutes with a 1750mah lipo. I know the 8.5 is not meant for runtime, its meant for all out power, the problem is that it has neither. The only advantage that leaves is the sensored/sensorless comparison, and after running both types of systems for several years I can say: What a joke! My EZrun 35A ESC is smooth, fast and efficient. Of course I race with others that use the MOngoose, so my judgments are not simply based on my own opinion of the 2 systems I listed here, but my experiences are very similar to others I race with. One could argue that I used the two fastest motors for my comparison, and that the 13.5 is much better suited to a Vendetta. I might agree, but if someone is looking at a brushless system I don't think they should be limited to the one system that seems to work decent at the cost of being the slowest.
I recommend Castle Creations and HObbywing products for anyone considering brushless power for their Vendetta.
I tried the 10.5 when they first came out, but I was disappointed so I sold it. I recently got an 8.5 in a deal, and my EZRun/CM26 absolutely puts it to shame in every way. Well, I guess the Novak has a little more top speed when geared accordingly, but then it runs hot. Either way the speed is close enough that on a typical 18th scale track the EZRun/CM26 is just as fast. Plus the EZRun ESC and Castle motor do not get hot at all under any circumstance that I can configure. Runtime is pathetic with the 8.5, less than 15 minutes with a 1750mah lipo. I know the 8.5 is not meant for runtime, its meant for all out power, the problem is that it has neither. The only advantage that leaves is the sensored/sensorless comparison, and after running both types of systems for several years I can say: What a joke! My EZrun 35A ESC is smooth, fast and efficient. Of course I race with others that use the MOngoose, so my judgments are not simply based on my own opinion of the 2 systems I listed here, but my experiences are very similar to others I race with. One could argue that I used the two fastest motors for my comparison, and that the 13.5 is much better suited to a Vendetta. I might agree, but if someone is looking at a brushless system I don't think they should be limited to the one system that seems to work decent at the cost of being the slowest.
I recommend Castle Creations and HObbywing products for anyone considering brushless power for their Vendetta.
#1932
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: burnineyes
Sounds like someone really likes their Mongoose.
I tried the 10.5 when they first came out, but I was disappointed so I sold it. I recently got an 8.5 in a deal, and my EZRun/CM26 absolutely puts it to shame in every way. Well, I guess the Novak has a little more top speed when geared accordingly, but then it runs hot. Either way the speed is close enough that on a typical 18th scale track the EZRun/CM26 is just as fast. Plus the EZRun ESC and Castle motor do not get hot at all under any circumstance that I can configure. Runtime is pathetic with the 8.5, less than 15 minutes with a 1750mah lipo. I know the 8.5 is not meant for runtime, its meant for all out power, the problem is that it has neither. The only advantage that leaves is the sensored/sensorless comparison, and after running both types of systems for several years I can say: What a joke! My EZrun 35A ESC is smooth, fast and efficient. Of course I race with others that use the MOngoose, so my judgments are not simply based on my own opinion of the 2 systems I listed here, but my experiences are very similar to others I race with. One could argue that I used the two fastest motors for my comparison, and that the 13.5 is much better suited to a Vendetta. I might agree, but if someone is looking at a brushless system I don't think they should be limited to the one system that seems to work decent at the cost of being the slowest.
I recommend Castle Creations and HObbywing products for anyone considering brushless power for their Vendetta.
Sounds like someone really likes their Mongoose.
I tried the 10.5 when they first came out, but I was disappointed so I sold it. I recently got an 8.5 in a deal, and my EZRun/CM26 absolutely puts it to shame in every way. Well, I guess the Novak has a little more top speed when geared accordingly, but then it runs hot. Either way the speed is close enough that on a typical 18th scale track the EZRun/CM26 is just as fast. Plus the EZRun ESC and Castle motor do not get hot at all under any circumstance that I can configure. Runtime is pathetic with the 8.5, less than 15 minutes with a 1750mah lipo. I know the 8.5 is not meant for runtime, its meant for all out power, the problem is that it has neither. The only advantage that leaves is the sensored/sensorless comparison, and after running both types of systems for several years I can say: What a joke! My EZrun 35A ESC is smooth, fast and efficient. Of course I race with others that use the MOngoose, so my judgments are not simply based on my own opinion of the 2 systems I listed here, but my experiences are very similar to others I race with. One could argue that I used the two fastest motors for my comparison, and that the 13.5 is much better suited to a Vendetta. I might agree, but if someone is looking at a brushless system I don't think they should be limited to the one system that seems to work decent at the cost of being the slowest.
I recommend Castle Creations and HObbywing products for anyone considering brushless power for their Vendetta.
Considering all the problems people keep posting about the ezrun systems, I would venture to guess that you get what you pay for (low quality, hongkong, long distrance tech support issues). Suggesting it is smooth, is, LOL, like saying the earth is smooth. Might look that way from outerspace, or the uninformed, but to suggest you can make a sensorless system with current technology as smooth as a sensored system is ludicrous. There's a reason the big names in the industry, Tekin and LRP to name but two, have followed suit and why sensored systems are whatare winningall the big races and sensorless is not. If you wanna run knockoff stuff, that's fine. But don't post that hobbywing BS here, people won't believe it as fact anymore here than they do on other forums. It's basher-grade electronics. What a joke is right. LOL
Also, there's no sense in pimping your CCCM26 as the motor was a limited production and is no longer available.
![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#1933
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seminole,
FL
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And considering that you are talking about the EZrun in the sense of what you read on the internet about them I would say its a pretty fallacious statement to suggest that they are low quality. Show me a thread for a real problem with the EZRun and Ill show you a physical example of a failed Novak. You can run on any track you like, but that doesn't give you insight to how every power system you see on the internet works. I guess since you run 18th scale, you must know how my 1:1 car runs too huh? Pick up a book on high school level debate and you will see why your argument has little meaning in this conversation. Oh, and if Novak says the 8.5 is a parking lot speed run motor, shouldn't it have the speed to compete in parking lot drag races? My guess is that you do not own the 8.5, so again your insight is pretty much void. You will not see me on here knocking the Tekin Mini Rage system, I do not have experience with it.
It seems rather obvious why sensored systems are found in the winners circle of major races. I, for one, don't know of any sponsored driver who would forget his/her sponsor so they could use another companies system. Just like many of you, the rest of the sheeple who are lucky/good enough to make it into the upper mains of National or International events will be running what they see competing at that level. Imagine if Hobbywing sponsored the Ryans, do you really think they wouldn't win anymore?? I do not need to see my power system in the hands of a pro driver to know that I can beat the local guys at my tracks with it.
The sensorless/sensored debate has been going on far too long, and I refuse to continue contaminating threads like I have already started above. My sensorless systems and my fellow racers that use sensorless are all extremely happy with the smoothness and power delivery. That is enough for me to recommend them to anyone looking for a brushless system.
Here is the Castle Creations CM26 motors, still available.
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ..._pro-cm26.html
Together with this ESC, this is one powerful system that operates very smoothly and reliably.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/hobbywing-...hless-esc.html
It seems rather obvious why sensored systems are found in the winners circle of major races. I, for one, don't know of any sponsored driver who would forget his/her sponsor so they could use another companies system. Just like many of you, the rest of the sheeple who are lucky/good enough to make it into the upper mains of National or International events will be running what they see competing at that level. Imagine if Hobbywing sponsored the Ryans, do you really think they wouldn't win anymore?? I do not need to see my power system in the hands of a pro driver to know that I can beat the local guys at my tracks with it.
The sensorless/sensored debate has been going on far too long, and I refuse to continue contaminating threads like I have already started above. My sensorless systems and my fellow racers that use sensorless are all extremely happy with the smoothness and power delivery. That is enough for me to recommend them to anyone looking for a brushless system.
Here is the Castle Creations CM26 motors, still available.
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ..._pro-cm26.html
Together with this ESC, this is one powerful system that operates very smoothly and reliably.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/hobbywing-...hless-esc.html
#1934
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: burnineyes
And considering that you are talking about the EZrun in the sense of what you read on the internet .
And considering that you are talking about the EZrun in the sense of what you read on the internet .
#1935
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seminole,
FL
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Some people in Tallahassee know where to race on 18th specific tracks. There is really no need to invite every jerk who thinks he knows everything when 10-12 people on a small track makes for a good day of racing. Interestingly enough, there is a church on Thomasville Road with an indoor carpeted basketball court, where racing is frequently held among a private group. If you are friendly to the right person, maybe you'll be lucky enough to find it someday.
This is all irrelevant really, because I do not live in Tallahassee. I lived there for thirty years, but moved away two years ago. I'm not very savvy with my forum tools, so I have never bothered to change it. Here in my current place of residence I still race 18th scale specific tracks on a regular basis, and I also frequently visit Tallahassee to see my friends and family. While there, I sometimes enjoy racing with my old buddies on the carpet AND the asphalt.
I come on this forum to learn first of all, and secondly I am here to help others who might need to know something that I know. I currently race with two Vendettas, so I have some knowledge that could be useful for this thread. Arguing about what brushless system is best is not what this thread needs, and it certainly does not need emotional arguments cluttering the pages. I stated my suggestion for a great system and why I believed it. If that is not what you believe then post your favorite system and why you like it. It just makes sense though, that if you talk poorly about a product, that you have actually used it.
This is all irrelevant really, because I do not live in Tallahassee. I lived there for thirty years, but moved away two years ago. I'm not very savvy with my forum tools, so I have never bothered to change it. Here in my current place of residence I still race 18th scale specific tracks on a regular basis, and I also frequently visit Tallahassee to see my friends and family. While there, I sometimes enjoy racing with my old buddies on the carpet AND the asphalt.
I come on this forum to learn first of all, and secondly I am here to help others who might need to know something that I know. I currently race with two Vendettas, so I have some knowledge that could be useful for this thread. Arguing about what brushless system is best is not what this thread needs, and it certainly does not need emotional arguments cluttering the pages. I stated my suggestion for a great system and why I believed it. If that is not what you believe then post your favorite system and why you like it. It just makes sense though, that if you talk poorly about a product, that you have actually used it.
#1936
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here again, had you not entered this discussion questioning me and trashing the Mongoose system I would have no reason to call you out and question your own post.
So if you want to keep the arguing and emotion out of the threads, then I suggest you take your own advice to heart and follow it closely instead of coming back later and lecturing when even using you're own parameters you are actually the one at fault. Oh, and getting together with a select group of a couple friends isn't really racing, it's more like bashing. Racing is an organized event, timing, scoring, and advertised to others to precipitate their participation instead of being held quietly and unknowingly to others in a church gym so as to keep out others.
So if you want to keep the arguing and emotion out of the threads, then I suggest you take your own advice to heart and follow it closely instead of coming back later and lecturing when even using you're own parameters you are actually the one at fault. Oh, and getting together with a select group of a couple friends isn't really racing, it's more like bashing. Racing is an organized event, timing, scoring, and advertised to others to precipitate their participation instead of being held quietly and unknowingly to others in a church gym so as to keep out others.
#1937
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Valrico,
FL
Posts: 922
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Quick question: Which is the best CVD setup to go with? I would like to ditch the plastic CVD's - since one already broke... Man, brushless is serious power in these 1/18 mini's.
I've seen steel cvd's, i've seen the MB4 cvd's; and i've seen the plastic ones that are threaded. I'd like to go threaded, i dont like the tiny screw holding my wheels on, especially if were running high speeds.
Suggestions:
Joe
I've seen steel cvd's, i've seen the MB4 cvd's; and i've seen the plastic ones that are threaded. I'd like to go threaded, i dont like the tiny screw holding my wheels on, especially if were running high speeds.
Suggestions:
Joe
#1938
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: J0EC00L
Quick question: Which is the best CVD setup to go with? I would like to ditch the plastic CVD's - since one already broke... Man, brushless is serious power in these 1/18 mini's.
I've seen steel cvd's, i've seen the MB4 cvd's; and i've seen the plastic ones that are threaded. I'd like to go threaded, i dont like the tiny screw holding my wheels on, especially if were running high speeds.
Suggestions:
Joe
Quick question: Which is the best CVD setup to go with? I would like to ditch the plastic CVD's - since one already broke... Man, brushless is serious power in these 1/18 mini's.
I've seen steel cvd's, i've seen the MB4 cvd's; and i've seen the plastic ones that are threaded. I'd like to go threaded, i dont like the tiny screw holding my wheels on, especially if were running high speeds.
Suggestions:
Joe
Any part made for a LRPShark ST, or MG4 Truggy, will fit the Vendetta ST. All of the cars are made by Anderson Models in Taiway, but the same exact truck otherwise.
#1940
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seminole,
FL
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have been lucky that my universals have been holding up. But taking advice from people that I truly trust I have heard the same thing over and over, the Duratrax CVDs are the only ones worth getting.
#1943
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: dana point,
CA
Posts: 3,947
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
has anyone had any problems with the threads snapping off... cause i keep snapping screws on mine.. just hoping the threaded cvd's are much stronger..
just wish they made them as 3mm and not 2.6mm
just wish they made them as 3mm and not 2.6mm
#1944
Senior Member
My Feedback: (-1)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: saywhat,
AE
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys im having problems.I got the ball diff for the rear, and it didnt come with bearings.So i ordered 2 6x10's from avid rc.Thats the size it says on the diff instructions, but they dont fit. They are too small, it hits on the inner ring of the bearing.Anyone know why?Do i have to bend the outdrive cup to make it fit?Sand it maybe?Or is it something else?
#1945
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: , IL
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The bearings supporting the outdrives on the diff are 8x12mm. I would just re-use the bearings that came with your kit as long as they are still in good shape.
#1947
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: ,
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: jaejw1
has anyone had any problems with the threads snapping off... cause i keep snapping screws on mine.. just hoping the threaded cvd's are much stronger..
just wish they made them as 3mm and not 2.6mm
has anyone had any problems with the threads snapping off... cause i keep snapping screws on mine.. just hoping the threaded cvd's are much stronger..
just wish they made them as 3mm and not 2.6mm
if it was me I would try and identify what are doing that is leading to you snapping them off
#1948
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: dana point,
CA
Posts: 3,947
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: mrgoodbar
the only thing that i could think of.. is that maybe the screws are backing out.. giving chance to bend and brake.. but that is only a guess..
if it was me I would try and identify what are doing that is leading to you snapping them off
ORIGINAL: jaejw1
has anyone had any problems with the threads snapping off... cause i keep snapping screws on mine.. just hoping the threaded cvd's are much stronger..
just wish they made them as 3mm and not 2.6mm
has anyone had any problems with the threads snapping off... cause i keep snapping screws on mine.. just hoping the threaded cvd's are much stronger..
just wish they made them as 3mm and not 2.6mm
if it was me I would try and identify what are doing that is leading to you snapping them off
#1949
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: jaejw1
the only thing that i could think of.. is that maybe the screws are backing out.. giving chance to bend and brake.. but that is only a guess..
ORIGINAL: mrgoodbar
if it was me I would try and identify what are doing that is leading to you snapping them off
ORIGINAL: jaejw1
has anyone had any problems with the threads snapping off... cause i keep snapping screws on mine.. just hoping the threaded cvd's are much stronger..
just wish they made them as 3mm and not 2.6mm
has anyone had any problems with the threads snapping off... cause i keep snapping screws on mine.. just hoping the threaded cvd's are much stronger..
just wish they made them as 3mm and not 2.6mm
#1950
Senior Member
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys. Anyone remember me? haha
Well anyways, a year ago I sold all of my RC stuff and haven't done anything related to RC since. I just got a tower catalog in the mail and it got me pretty interested again haha. Thinking of picking up a Detta ST again, but I have a few questions.
Is the Ammo 3900/Sidewinder combo still used? Or is there a better combo now.
Have there been any fixes on the detta st, or are there still the same problems with the snapping cvds and tierods?
Well anyways, a year ago I sold all of my RC stuff and haven't done anything related to RC since. I just got a tower catalog in the mail and it got me pretty interested again haha. Thinking of picking up a Detta ST again, but I have a few questions.
Is the Ammo 3900/Sidewinder combo still used? Or is there a better combo now.
Have there been any fixes on the detta st, or are there still the same problems with the snapping cvds and tierods?