bigdogkanicsar

i found someone who has fixed the diff problems with the MLST2 and all he did was shim the diff and put in a thinner bearing on opposite side to correct the mesh. this is for the MIP ball diffs and i actually ground down the drive cup where the bearing is seated so it slides on about .5 to 1mm further on the diff and shimmed the other side with shims from kyosho (same size as the bearing in the MLST2 diff) .5mm thick. they are rock solid now and have had NO more problems from them. the steering servos are a differnt story.


i need to add that if you to convert to single servo steering and EXOTEK directly offers that chassis conversion kit for 70$ and i also have a C-4 9400kv motor in it and going for the 11.1 v battery.

Go-Zilla

How many packs you have run after the mod ? Were you able to take care of the weak plastic idle gear problem in the center diff too ? Do you have a metal diff pinion ? So you are saying you are using the MIP ball diff for both front & rear right ?

bigdogkanicsar

i have ran about three packs and no trouble at all, and with that motor set up the lowest speed is about 6mph or at least when i squeeze slowly on the trigger it jumps to that speed right off. i even took it apart after the first pack to see if there was any stress, but there was nothing. the beginning problem i noticed was the mesh was crap, the pinion was only touching the diff gear by .25mm and sheered them right off in less than 30 seconds. this didn't cost me anything, i actually called MIP and they sent me four replacment gears. so, i experimented. but after all this ,then the steering servos went out so, this is the first time i actually got to run the truck at all since i bought 2 1/2 years ago. as far as the idle gear problem, that is a new one to me, but haven't had problems with that. i have a solid spool where the center diff used to be and solid spur because the slipper went out as soon as i changed to the 9400kv brushless and had to get a super small pinion cuz the truck was tryin to run 50mph after motor swap. hard to control as you can imagine, but never made it through full charge till now. here are some pics. well one pic

oh, yes i have the MIP hardened steel pinions.

Go-Zilla

3 packs, cool. Just keep us posted how it goes. Sounds like you might the third person that could make this work!

I have the exotek single servo kit. If I would have done it all over again, I will probably not do that but get a pair of the Htec mini metal gear servo for replacement instead.

Yes, the idle gear is another well known problem, specially with lock spool. Torque that didn't get absorbed has to go somewhere, right ?! So be careful out there. I locked my spool once, after about 6 runs, stripped the idle gear in the middle, and wrapped both front/rear plastic diff boxes. Pain in the buxx to switch that all out... good old times.

bigdogkanicsar

i hear ya, i've bean through two sets of losi viscious diffs and two sets of MIP ball diffs. 2 MIP center ball diffs till i got the straight spool. have you had problems with the EXOTEK single servo or just more cash that you didn't want to spend? let me know. i looked for servos to fit in there that were better but none have the same mounting holes. do you have any part #'s? i'll definetly keep ya post on the progress.

Go-Zilla

First is the price, second is the added weight to the front now it does less wheelies than it used to be. Plus I think part of my rear diff problem is a little bit from the weight from the Exotek kit and the added weight also.

JR 241 mg - 241 Micro Servo: Metal Gear Specs, ppl said there is some minor mod need to be done at the servo mounting holes but seems not that bad.

bigdogkanicsar

ya know i sat and thought about after i wrote yesterday. what motors you runnin'? my little truck with that 9400kv brushless on the right surface will pull wheelies by accident. and thats with the 7.4v lipo. hey thanks for the part #'s i'll have to give that a look.

Go-Zilla

There is a person named under Optimus1t. He mentioned put some CA glue to that plastic idle gear in the middle diff and let it dry completely before put it back in help it last longer. I am going to try that, but probably later when I have more time.

I have tried all Mamba 6800kv, 8000kv, Hyperion 6700kv short can, AON trust 4900kv, Novak Mongoose 10T sensored, Ammo 28-35-5100kv. 7.4v is the best, 11.1 lipo stripping gears like crazy.

bigdogkanicsar

i got mine geared as low as i can go and still pushes 35mph with 7.4v so it's plenty fast for my yard with no room. thanks for the input and if i learn anything else good for these i will post. on the idler gear ,when i put the alloy tranny case in i thought it looked like there was to much play in that area, but i run it to the ground before i rip it apart to replace it. but i'll keep it in mind. thanks bud.