VA 049 MK1
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VA 049 MK1
Any one know what the value of a VA 049 MK1 is worth? I got this in an engine lot a while back. Top of piston has a 5 scribed on it. I believe this is the piston size in relation the the cylinder as they were matched at the factory. The serial number is 495. It is missing the prop spinner. The mounting lugs do not have tool marks but I believe it may have been run in a clamp type test stand or washers were used. The bottom screw has tool marks probably to change the piston timing - neat feature. Super light engine.
Looks to have a Globee plug and adapter.
Jason
Looks to have a Globee plug and adapter.
Jason
#2
RE: VA 049 MK1
I've had several of these over the years but this is the first one I have seen with any markings on the piston top. Not to sure is this was done at the factory.
I'd guess it's worth around $50 and if you can find the right sucker then It's worth whatever they would pay.
I'd guess it's worth around $50 and if you can find the right sucker then It's worth whatever they would pay.
#3
RE: VA 049 MK1
I don't remember seeing any numbers on top of the piston on mine either, might be the previous owner who mark his piston setting.
What it is worth? Depends on how much you enjoin running small glow engines I suppose...
What it is worth? Depends on how much you enjoin running small glow engines I suppose...
#4
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RE: VA 049 MK1
I have some with marked pistons, it is indeed for their size.
As for the OP's engine, a serial number that low had a "wilder" port timing than later motors, with a change made to later motors to better suit the way US fliers used their engines. As for Value, if this engine were new and unmolested, it would typically bring $70 on FeeBay. I would expect $45-50 in it's current state.
As for the OP's engine, a serial number that low had a "wilder" port timing than later motors, with a change made to later motors to better suit the way US fliers used their engines. As for Value, if this engine were new and unmolested, it would typically bring $70 on FeeBay. I would expect $45-50 in it's current state.
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RE: VA 049 MK1
I bought two of these when they first came out. They were my first high performance small engine. Quite an eye opener compared to what I was used to with my Cox status quo, I recall first running them on clipped 5.5x2's. Light!
And then there was the MkII R/C.. sigh.. wish I could have afforded 5 of them when those were briefly available. As I understand only about 100 made it to NA.
And then there was the MkII R/C.. sigh.. wish I could have afforded 5 of them when those were briefly available. As I understand only about 100 made it to NA.
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RE: VA 049 MK1
Back in the early 90s' I bought some dozens of the MKIs from Dan Rutherford, set them up for 1/2A CL Combat and resold them.
Piston sizes were 1 thru 6 with 6 being the largest.
Compared to the TeeDee they were lighter, made a bit more power, and worked well.
We generally turned them too tight and that broke rods. After market rods pretty well solved that, but over-all the little engines were still a bit fragile.
I have checked the numbers on the "carcasses" I have left and they run to #1972. I suspect there were many more MKIs imported/sold than MKIIs.
MJD, I believe you may be correct on there being only 100 MKII R/Cs. And . . . I converted some of those to CL use by removing the muffler and carb and tapping the case out to take a TeeDee venturi and needle assembly. That seems a bit short sighted now, but those were engines with carbs without the adjustable air bleed. Andy Woitowicz later worked up an adjustable carb that worked much better.
Piston sizes were 1 thru 6 with 6 being the largest.
Compared to the TeeDee they were lighter, made a bit more power, and worked well.
We generally turned them too tight and that broke rods. After market rods pretty well solved that, but over-all the little engines were still a bit fragile.
I have checked the numbers on the "carcasses" I have left and they run to #1972. I suspect there were many more MKIs imported/sold than MKIIs.
MJD, I believe you may be correct on there being only 100 MKII R/Cs. And . . . I converted some of those to CL use by removing the muffler and carb and tapping the case out to take a TeeDee venturi and needle assembly. That seems a bit short sighted now, but those were engines with carbs without the adjustable air bleed. Andy Woitowicz later worked up an adjustable carb that worked much better.
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RE: VA 049 MK1
Larry,
Did these also come with different size venturi? I found a little bag that has a smaller ID venturi and 4 copper shims. The shims look to be for the piston timing.
Jason
Did these also come with different size venturi? I found a little bag that has a smaller ID venturi and 4 copper shims. The shims look to be for the piston timing.
Jason
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RE: VA 049 MK1
Dave has it right. I used red Loctite to hold the wrist pin carrier in place after setting the timing. It usually took one or two of the shims. The more shims the lower the timing. More shims = larger prop and lower RPM potential.
#11
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RE: VA 049 MK1
Talk to Andy W, he's done a mountain of them. I even managed to pick up one brand new, second hand!
I have successfully used the G-Mark .06 carb but it required taking the spigot down to fit. I think the ASP or CS might fit. Mine from Andy has the carb off a VA Mk. 2.
I have successfully used the G-Mark .06 carb but it required taking the spigot down to fit. I think the ASP or CS might fit. Mine from Andy has the carb off a VA Mk. 2.
#12
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RE: VA 049 MK1
ORIGINAL: Larry Driskill
Dave has it right. I used red Loctite to hold the wrist pin carrier in place after setting the timing. It usually took one or two of the shims. The more shims the lower the timing. More shims = larger prop and lower RPM potential.
Dave has it right. I used red Loctite to hold the wrist pin carrier in place after setting the timing. It usually took one or two of the shims. The more shims the lower the timing. More shims = larger prop and lower RPM potential.
#14
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RE: VA 049 MK1
ORIGINAL: MJD
I recall the instructions were to Loctite the assembly after finding the setting you wanted to keep.
I recall the instructions were to Loctite the assembly after finding the setting you wanted to keep.