flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

can I spray paint instead of covering? will it hold up?
like krylon or something, would it be heavier ?,.. I really hate covering, anybody flown a glow with no covering or paint? how long till the wood is useless?..Rog

goldguy

Here's a quick method...........

1-brush on one coat of white glue, thinned 50% with water

2-lightly sand to remove fuzz

3-brush on one coat of acrylic artist paint (craft store)

4-don't sand

5-bruch on one coat of water based urathane to fuel proof

6-the whole process can be done in a few hours while your
batteries charge

7-go flying, just don't let high nitro fuel sit too long on your new
paint job.

BMatthews

Very interesting option here. But I have one concern...

White glue is very heavy even when thinned down. And the last time I did any cabinet work it plugged up the sandpaper real badly. If it was me I'd substitute a brushed on coat or two of thin dope. It dries fast and you can then sand off the fuzz much easier. If you don't want to buy the dope then try white shellac cut about 50% with methyl alchohal. It also dries fast, raises the ruzz nicely and sands like butta'. The artist acylics and water based urethane sounds super.

Water based urethane is amazingly fuel proof. Minwax Polycrylic, however, is something else and has NO resistance to fuel. Be sure to get the right stuff.

goldguy

The white glue I use is Weldbond, works well to seal the wood and sands easy. I idea is a quick and dirty method. Remember, the ROG hates covering and this method is fairly painless because everything in water based and easy to clean up.

I just wanted to discourage him from headed to the flying field with a naked, bare balsa model!!!

fastlash

My Feedback: (7)

Rog quit ya whinning and just cover it, man it ain't no gaint scale!!!

matchlessaero

But I am not sure about the water cleanup Polyurethane being fuel proof.

I am considering using the Polycrylic finishing method described on the CLStunt forum for a soon to be finished CLPA plane I am currently working on, but according to everyone on that forum that has tried it, the water based poly's are not fuelproof and require an additional fuel proofing method over the top (they are using automotive clears for fuel proofing instead of dope).

Rog, compared to the 'wet' finishing methods I have used (dope, poly-u, epoxy, etc, Plastic film coverings are basically painless.

BMatthews

I hear ya about the bare balsa thing. That would be just plain NASTY....

I recently did some top coating with both a water based urethane and the Minwax Polycrylic. The Flecto brand stuff in the silver label container resisted 1/2A fuel just fine but the Polycrylic stuff turned very sticky and wouldn't clean up.

The Flecto urethane cleaned up just fine with water and a little bar soap rubbed into the brushes and then rinsed out. The Polycrilc cleaned up ditto.

I know the electric guys have been doing a light fiberglass and Polycrylic over foam with very good results and for our gassies I think we could use the Flecto stuff with similar results.

ZAGNUT

My Feedback: (1)

i hate covering almost as much as i hate balsa. for years i've been building planes out of foam covered in paper and thinned carpenter's glue. i use latex house paint with a water based clearcote for the finish. i started doing this about 15 years ago when i came over here and discovered that modeling supplies cost double what they do in the states.

the plane in the pic is all foam and paper except the fuse which is foam and 1/32" ply. it has a 20"x7" wing, weighs 14oz and flew with 2 channels and a medallion .049

dave

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

OK, I'll cover it, but I really suck at it, I think I got some dulcolan or something like that around here...Rog