Mini Contender slimer conversion
06-14-2015, 07:05 PM
#101
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Just got me a new bike helmet that actually fits comfortably, so the next step is the GoPro mount.. and helmet cam.
On another note I had never tested for myself out how fuel proof Goop is. Hot dang it is very fuel proof indeed. I sealed the inside of a small paper cup with it, let it dry, then filled it with 25% fuel and left it for a day and a half. No effect. And you can cut it with toluene (and I'll figure out what else) to make a thin brush on flexible tough fuelproofer. Going to keep experimenting with it.
On another note I had never tested for myself out how fuel proof Goop is. Hot dang it is very fuel proof indeed. I sealed the inside of a small paper cup with it, let it dry, then filled it with 25% fuel and left it for a day and a half. No effect. And you can cut it with toluene (and I'll figure out what else) to make a thin brush on flexible tough fuelproofer. Going to keep experimenting with it.
06-14-2015, 07:40 PM
#103
There is one easy fix, run metal tube thru the firewall and epoxy in place it is truly over with. We need a synthetic fuel proof material that works like balsa and ply woods, sands and glues up well and in various thicknesses to mimic our current wood sources. The first one to distribute this earns my money 
06-15-2015, 03:41 AM
#105
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If there is no air in the line to begin with not sure how you will get foaming. A tank is another matter.
06-16-2015, 11:16 AM
#106
I usually don't seal it. There is a bit of spray from the carb, but I haven't found any detectable amount getting into small holes in the firewall around the fuel tubing. The exhaust goop is all down stream. I don't think I've ever had a reason to seal it. I don't even do it when I run my diesels. Are you guys sure this is really necessary?
Jim
Jim
06-16-2015, 12:18 PM
#107
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Well.. it all depends on the particular engine and design don't it? Some of these things seem to pump oil into the pores of the wood in the firewall under hydraulic pressure - and I am not sure if any engine does it better than a tanked reedie. Other aircraft with three lines poking out of caverns in the firewall, with front intake carbed engines merrily go on for years.
My opinion is - if you don't seal it now and try to seal it later when you realize you need to, it ain't gonna go so well. To me the goal is to make the fuel-proofing as quick and painless as possible while being effective, like most building tasks I abhor. But I sure feel good about doing it afterwards. Then of course, on the way out of the shop for the first time I usually ding the wingtip or stab, so sometimes one wonders about the value of forethought and prevention.
The caveat to this for me is - the ugly ones always last the longest.. so what's a little fuel soak?
My opinion is - if you don't seal it now and try to seal it later when you realize you need to, it ain't gonna go so well. To me the goal is to make the fuel-proofing as quick and painless as possible while being effective, like most building tasks I abhor. But I sure feel good about doing it afterwards. Then of course, on the way out of the shop for the first time I usually ding the wingtip or stab, so sometimes one wonders about the value of forethought and prevention.
The caveat to this for me is - the ugly ones always last the longest.. so what's a little fuel soak?
06-16-2015, 04:04 PM
#108
Diesel fuel is the worst. It doesn't take very much residue to lift the covering and making the plane look like a prune.
My 1/2A Cox powered glow models are the slobberyist messes and unless they get meticulously cleaned after every session, it doesn't take long for them to start looking old. I've had decent luck scuffing iron on film with a green pad and then using epoxy paint to coat the firewall and let it overlap the iron on film by a slight margin. Not a "Concours De Elegance" technique but utilitarian..
I'll give GOOP a try for the fuel line penetrations. I think it'll stick better to the wood if the wood is sealed first with epoxy.
My 1/2A Cox powered glow models are the slobberyist messes and unless they get meticulously cleaned after every session, it doesn't take long for them to start looking old. I've had decent luck scuffing iron on film with a green pad and then using epoxy paint to coat the firewall and let it overlap the iron on film by a slight margin. Not a "Concours De Elegance" technique but utilitarian..
I'll give GOOP a try for the fuel line penetrations. I think it'll stick better to the wood if the wood is sealed first with epoxy.
08-07-2015, 07:48 PM
#109
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Try gluing two pieces of balsa together with it sometime.. it's really tenacious stuff.
The Mini Contender continues to be a sweet sport flier on the Magnum .15. It's a perfect application for the 8-4 prop, modest top speed but lots of traction, it's a draggy model.
I got to fly this earlier in the evening, it's a nice aircraft.. grooves along at about 100mph, you can flick it around and have a bit of fun. Nice and light on the stick, smooth control feel.
http://www.classicaircraft.ca/cornell/
The Mini Contender continues to be a sweet sport flier on the Magnum .15. It's a perfect application for the 8-4 prop, modest top speed but lots of traction, it's a draggy model.
I got to fly this earlier in the evening, it's a nice aircraft.. grooves along at about 100mph, you can flick it around and have a bit of fun. Nice and light on the stick, smooth control feel.
http://www.classicaircraft.ca/cornell/
08-08-2015, 09:13 PM
#113
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I was not on the stick on takeoff or landing - it belongs to the museum and my buddy Dan is one of the museum pilots. But yeah, smooth it was - so that's what oleos feel like.
09-05-2016, 08:49 AM
#115
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On the subject of the Mini Contender conversion, like many models they have busy time and quiet times. I've been flying this thing a lot in the last few days and it has really grown on me. I handed it over to a buddy for a couple of tankfuls and he offered to buy it. I said no, but you can fly it. The Magnum .15 has settled in nicely and is totally reliable inverted even at idle - no problems whatsoever, other than getting it wet enough to hand start priming inverted. Vertical lines are 400-500', it has only a hair over 1:1 so will hover, but will not accelerate vertically nor maintain vertical to cloud base. However.. This aircraft revels in part throttle aerobatics and with a 3oz tank I only have run to the end once. It is a sweetheart on landing and low slow flight. All the video to date is a twirling white and red dot and noise, I need someone out with me that has a video taking attention span..
Last edited by MJD; 09-06-2016 at 04:09 PM.
09-06-2016, 04:07 PM
#118
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Yes I bet it would do a great job. One thing I think you should avoid with this aircraft, is excessive flight speed. So I would think it would be wise to invest the extra horsepower in vertical, rather than horizontal speed. The airframe Is well-built & solid, don't get me wrong. But I would keep in mind that the ailerons are quite wide, and they are built-up stick structure. The H stab is also built up, but reasonably rigid. So I'd keep the pitch moderate, 4-5" would be my recommendation. But your mileage may vary. Think of it as a wee Hots.
