canard .049 pusher queries.
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canard .049 pusher queries.
hello all,
I'm contemplating designing a canard wing plane powered by a Cox .049with remotechokeand I was wondering if there was any mods or aftermarket add ons ifneeded to convert these awesome engines to a pusher configuration, and if there are any hints and tipsthat could help me out in any way.Also if there is anybody that has had success using an .049 as a pusher.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
thanks again
I'm contemplating designing a canard wing plane powered by a Cox .049with remotechokeand I was wondering if there was any mods or aftermarket add ons ifneeded to convert these awesome engines to a pusher configuration, and if there are any hints and tipsthat could help me out in any way.Also if there is anybody that has had success using an .049 as a pusher.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
thanks again
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
49 pusher is easy, I recomend adding or having a thrust washer on the crank,not all 049`s have them and the cases wear pretty rapidly under the stress.
A pusher prop works well.
Yes,I have done this many times with my airboats to get the best steering thrust from a COX reedie.
Keep us posted if you don`t do an entire build thread,I`m interested in your plane design
A pusher prop works well.
Yes,I have done this many times with my airboats to get the best steering thrust from a COX reedie.
Keep us posted if you don`t do an entire build thread,I`m interested in your plane design
#3
RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
Actually, what is recommended on a pusher is a brass prop drive plate. On a tractor engine (up front), the prop drive plate does not contact the aluminum crankcase, so there are no issues of rubbing contact and wear. On a pusher, it is desirable to have the drive plate of a harder material.
For the reed valve engines, you can buy a complete crankcase with brass drive plate, cost $6.95 US:
[link]http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-crankcase-crank-pusher.html[/link]
or just the brass drive plate if you are bold enough to replace it yourself, cost $1.95 US:
[link]http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-drive-plate-hex-brass.html[/link]
Shipping costs are extra. I couldn't find anything for the Tee Dees or Medallions.
For the reed valve engines, you can buy a complete crankcase with brass drive plate, cost $6.95 US:
[link]http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-crankcase-crank-pusher.html[/link]
or just the brass drive plate if you are bold enough to replace it yourself, cost $1.95 US:
[link]http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-drive-plate-hex-brass.html[/link]
Shipping costs are extra. I couldn't find anything for the Tee Dees or Medallions.
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
ORIGINAL: GallopingGhostler
Actually, what is recommended on a pusher is a brass prop drive plate. On a tractor engine (up front), the prop drive plate does not contact the aluminum crankcase, so there are no issues of rubbing contact and wear. On a pusher, it is desirable to have the drive plate of a harder material.
For the reed valve engines, you can buy a complete crankcase with brass drive plate, cost $6.95 US:
[link]http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-crankcase-crank-pusher.html[/link]
or just the brass drive plate if you are bold enough to replace it yourself, cost $1.95 US:
[link]http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-drive-plate-hex-brass.html[/link]
Shipping costs are extra. I couldn't find anything for the Tee Dees or Medallions.
Actually, what is recommended on a pusher is a brass prop drive plate. On a tractor engine (up front), the prop drive plate does not contact the aluminum crankcase, so there are no issues of rubbing contact and wear. On a pusher, it is desirable to have the drive plate of a harder material.
For the reed valve engines, you can buy a complete crankcase with brass drive plate, cost $6.95 US:
[link]http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-crankcase-crank-pusher.html[/link]
or just the brass drive plate if you are bold enough to replace it yourself, cost $1.95 US:
[link]http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-drive-plate-hex-brass.html[/link]
Shipping costs are extra. I couldn't find anything for the Tee Dees or Medallions.
thanks again.
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
You might get some inspiration from this thread: [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4813640/anchors_4813640/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#4813640[/link]
I actually have this plan, but I have already promised it to an other pilot/builder. If you are interested I can try to scan it before I post it to the recipient. If you are: send me a PM.
Best of luck with your build (and keep us posted)
/Stefan
I actually have this plan, but I have already promised it to an other pilot/builder. If you are interested I can try to scan it before I post it to the recipient. If you are: send me a PM.
Best of luck with your build (and keep us posted)
/Stefan
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
I was going to design a forward swept wing canard but decided not to, as I have plans for a canard wing model from D. Boddington (Dracon) and to my surprise, one of my Cox .049's has a brass drive plate fitted, so I have everything needed to make this model. I will keep you all posted.
Thanks to you all !!!
Thanks to you all !!!
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
If your building the Dracon, I have a few suggestions, move the main(rear) wing forwards 1/2" and keep the CG in the same place relative to the fuselarge then reduce the amount of incedense on the forward plane (probably by about 1/2) this will result in a better flying model.
I built it as per plan for my son and with the wings and CG as shown it needed slight up elevator (canard flaps drooped) to fly level and would drop the nose savaglely when inverted makeing rolls a task. As designed the canard has a fairly high loading. An addition of 1" to the canard span would also be of benefit.
Stewart
I built it as per plan for my son and with the wings and CG as shown it needed slight up elevator (canard flaps drooped) to fly level and would drop the nose savaglely when inverted makeing rolls a task. As designed the canard has a fairly high loading. An addition of 1" to the canard span would also be of benefit.
Stewart
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
awesome, thanks, luckily I haven't started cutting out the wings as yet. Did you use a throttled Cox .049 with a remote tank on the model you built? As that's what I had in mind using and placing the tank and throttle servo as close as possible to CG. Also did you have to add any additional strength to the main wings as they don't look all that strong, I might be wrong but they look a tad flimsy.
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
I added a 1/8 x 1/4" spruce brace across the wing join, tcut to fit the taper required to match with the wing sweep, the model was powered with an unthrottled cox Black Widow 049 tanked motor. The model only reqiured a firm level launch, hold it level for 25-30yds then you can pull it up into a 40deg climb.
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
sweet mate, I think it would be a good idea to incorporate a mainspar just to give the wing some strength, if you can think of any other pointers, please let me know.
Thanks again.
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
I built the wing as per plan, just added the spruce wing joiner that was 5-6" long and sheeted the underside of the wing centre section were it sat on the fuselarge only. The wing then was strong enough , my son used to wring it out pretty well.
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
Mick, what I've always done to remove the drive washer is to stick an old prop screw into the crankshaft then with some 1/8 plywood pads use my bench vise to push the crank back into the case and out of the washer. Works slick as a whistle and avoids the hammer shock.
Putting them on is as easy as starting it on the spline then use a prop and screw to push it back into place.
Putting them on is as easy as starting it on the spline then use a prop and screw to push it back into place.
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
ORIGINAL: BMatthews
Mick, what I've always done to remove the drive washer is to stick an old prop screw into the crankshaft then with some 1/8 plywood pads use my bench vise to push the crank back into the case and out of the washer. Works slick as a whistle and avoids the hammer shock.
Putting them on is as easy as starting it on the spline then use a prop and screw to push it back into place.
Mick, what I've always done to remove the drive washer is to stick an old prop screw into the crankshaft then with some 1/8 plywood pads use my bench vise to push the crank back into the case and out of the washer. Works slick as a whistle and avoids the hammer shock.
Putting them on is as easy as starting it on the spline then use a prop and screw to push it back into place.
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RE: canard .049 pusher queries.
hi all,
I havent started building my Dracon canard yet, (nearly finished my Jim Vigani 'Scratch' and very busy with work commitments) and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas regarding the aileron linkages as I would like the model to have removable wings and not have the same system as the Dracon calls for where you would have to disconnect the clevises from control horns to remove wings.
Thanks
I havent started building my Dracon canard yet, (nearly finished my Jim Vigani 'Scratch' and very busy with work commitments) and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas regarding the aileron linkages as I would like the model to have removable wings and not have the same system as the Dracon calls for where you would have to disconnect the clevises from control horns to remove wings.
Thanks