mick1404

hello all,I have just been given a Fuji .099 engine from a mate cleaning out his dads garage, it looks quite old and luckily it's not seized or gummed up too much. My mate remembers it in his dads garage when he was a young fella, he is now 30. Is there anyone who knows much about these engines? And what is the best procedure cleaning wise and getting it running again as I'm still a bit green regarding glow engines (I'm a bit of an electric nut) and the only ones I have are Cox .049's (only 5 of them) and they have been issue free.Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Mr Cox

These came in a few different versions, the older are steel/iron technologies and the newer are ABC. If it turns over freely you don't really have to do anything, but you do have to run with with castor in the fuel, if it is the steel/iron construction. Even the ABC type will benefit from castor as it is a plain bearing engine.

ffkiwi

The engine could be an 099, an 099-S an 099S-II or an 099SR-all of which are different-and the latter two had steel or ABC options towards the end of original manufacturer production. Manufacturing rights (and spares inventory) for the Fuji Bussan range are now held by MECOA in the USA-though the MECOA website is not particularly helpful when it comes to listing spare parts for Fujis-you have to email them direct-and hope you get a sensible answer. If it has twin exhausts, its one of the early style reverse flow scavenged model Fuji 099's-the S, S-II and SR 099 models had a 'conventional' cross flow glow layout with a single exhaust port on the right
The 099S was about the same as an OS Pet/OS Max-10 in performance, the S-II and SR models were more powerful.

There is a wealth of information on the 099 Fuji series (arguably too much!) on Ron Chernich's website: www.modelenginenews.org Searching here will throw up more than you probably want to know about Fuji 099s...................

Cleaning wise? The same care as I hope you'd use on any older engine when stripping for cleaning. A bit of heat first to ensure any baked hard castor is softened, so you can remove screws without too much force being needed, and the front housing without damaging the front gasket, then the same for the head. The cylinder liner (I only have experience of the S, S-II and SR models BTW) seats on a very very thin aluminium gasket-so be careful not to damage this. Head gasket is a more robust aluminium item. Internally the layout is similar to the Enya 09-and perfectly conventional. Use your favourite engine cleaner.

These were cheap engines in their day-aimed fairly and squarely at the economy end of the market-so don't expect much in the way of performance. But within that market niche they were-and are perfectly good engines-but not that heavily marketed outside Japan compared to OS and Enya.

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

icerinkdad

My two cents worth. If it turns over do not take it apart. There is too much risk of damage to a gasket that may be hard to find a replacement for. Put a few drops of fresh fuel in the exaust and intake and turn it over a few times to see if it frees up. If it does just take the needle valve out and squirt fresh fuel thru the spray bar to clear any old oil out. Put the needle back in careful not to over tighten it. Turn it out about 5 turns from all the way in and hook up fuel line and a tank. Put a 6-4 prop on it to start. Check the glow plug. If it glows prime the motor and give it a good fast flip and see if it fires off the prime. If so fill the fuel tank and enjoy the noise!

GallopingGhostler

You will find an engine manual for the Fuji here:

[link]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=955929&page=16#post23295444[/link]

It has recommended prop sizes and starting instructions for all the .099's.

I have the ABC version of the 099S-II. It is low compression at 5.5:1, I have 2 of them in new condition, one broke in the other not, plan to use them on Texaco like planes for their gentle running and throttling characteristics. Power appears to be about on par with the Enya .09-III TV that I have, may be a tad less (I don't have a tach). The 099S-II ABC is an odd one as it is ABC yet is baffle piston (not Schneurle) in design. I guess they took the earlier iron piston / steel cylinder design and replaced it with ABC.

If the 099S-II, it requires 4 turns on the needle valve (misspelled as "full turns", I know because of my experiences). They recommend an 8x3 prop for break in, by which I am told by others probably for its flywheel effect. I didn't have that so I broke it in using a 7x4 prop.

The 099SR is actually .11 in displacement, I don't have one, but looking at various forum comments, was a respectable powerful motor in its own right, very desirable.

mick1404

Sweet, I have done a bit of research and it is a .099 SII, it has a non R/C carb on it so i assume it is for C/L application. I couldn't resist so I took the head off and found that the top of the piston has an offset ridge 1/8" high on top. Thanks for all your input guys.

GallopingGhostler

Yes, with only a needle valve assembly, it would be for free flight or CL, although one could use it wide open on a 2 channel RC plane. That 1/8" offset ridge is what they call the piston baffle. It helps to keep the new fuel charge separated from the exhaust and is common on the older non-Schneurle engine designs. These engines are capable of swinging larger props generally than the Schneurles usually at a slightly lower RPM, making them economical on fuel usage.

I am told these older engines, particularly if of iron piston in a steel cylinder liner with plain bearings like fuel with Castor oil content (Castor oil oxidizes at higher temperatures than other oils) with a touch more oil than the standard 18% used these days. You may find also that it likes hotter glow plugs.

You've got a piece of history, enjoy!

Mr Cox

Yes, the ones with a baffle on the piston have iron pistons running in steel liners. Use 20-25% all castor in the fuel. There is another thread somewhere that discusses the very low compression ration in these engines, so you may need a high nitro level (>10%). The castor creates a varnish layer on the piston that helps it to seal against the cylinder, so don't clean the piston or cylinder from that, as that can ruin the seal completely in a used engine.

GallopingGhostler

Not totally true. Toward the last years of the 099S-II production, they switched to ABC technology. I have two Fuji 099S-II engines that are a true baffle piston that is aluminum running in a chrome plated brass sleeve (ABC). Please see RCGroups link I provided in my previous message, I provided those pictures. Apparently Fuji thought there was still a following with this engine and offered it as a lower cost alternative with its true Inner Bypass Schneurle (IBS) 099SR engine.

Some experienced fliers with the Ringmaster Brotherhood expressed that the iron piston running in a steel sleeve technology such as the older Fox and McCoy engines benefit from a little synth content; it doesn't hurt if the engine is not worn out. The Castor will protect the piston and plain bearing. The synth content will keep the engine from getting gummed up with baked on Castor oil in the cylinder to slow it down. But you are right, a little more oil is beneficial.

I ran the 099S-II with an 8x4 prop, it was able to turn it with authority. This was with 15% nitro fuel. I haven't tried it with less. I think this is where the lower compression and larger low pitch props will be of a benefit to older, vintage models. One plane I am targeting it for is the 55" (1400 mm) wingspan Miss Stik Senior, an electric stick build Texaco-like cabin plane, I plan to convert to glow. If I can find a 9x3 or 9x2 propeller, I might try those.

There was some mention of a special Fox fuel in the 1950's that had 28% Castor oil, to help restore the fit to old, worn out engines.

mick1404

well here she is in all its heavenly glory, looks alot better than it did a few days ago. Just had a good talk with my dad as he is a keen R/C flyer/collector also, but he is 1000miles away, he is going to give me some of his old diesel engines he has had since he was in his teens, he was a keen C/L flyer and F/F. some of the engines he is giving me I would assume would be good additions to any collector, some include an old diesel Webra, an old diesel Frog, 35 Mc Coy (red head with black cylinder) and an ancient OS, I think he said it was a Pet?not too sure. Cant wait as the engine collector bug has bitten hard.
Thanks again for all your help guys, may you all have smooth flights and landings.

GallopingGhostler

You do have a keeper there, Mick1404. She is almost begging to be placed on a 30" (760 mm) wingspan CL Sterling Ringmaster Junior profile stunt plane. Just curious, but is yours the older iron piston in a steel liner version? Then it was probably made in the 1960's. My ABC versions were among the last produced. I bought those in the 1980's at Hobby Shack in So. Cal. when they were liquidating them and discontinuing the Fuji brand. I either paid $5 or $10 US a piece for them.

mick1404

 Yeah Galloping Ghostler,the liner looks like steel and the piston looks like steel. I'm a bit excited to run it, but I got to get hold of some nitro with castor oil first, definitely a nice C/L model is on the cards, but first I got to finish off 3 unfinished models and rebuild my big Top Flite P-47. 

GallopingGhostler

Yeah mick1404, understand that, BTDT. Working on Q-Tee repairs, so I can move on to new builds. That big Top Flite P-47 is a classic.

gcb

Fox Super Fuel came out in the early/mid fifties if I remember correctly. It is still available. It now has 5% nitro, 29% castor, and the rest methanol.

George

mick1404

awesome, now I just have to find a similar product that is readily available in Australia, otherwise, I will have to blend my own, which I don't mind doing as then I know what it has in it. I would like to find a happy medium where I could have a fuel that all my Cox .049's can run on happily and with optimum performance and reliabilityand for my new addition (Fuji .099), but I'm assuming this might not be possible.

Mr Cox

My do it all fuel for old-school stuff is 25% pure castor and 10% Nitro.

GallopingGhostler

Unless your old engines are really worn out, you might be able to get by with just upping the oil content of your fuel with Castor oil. Some have suggested increasing to around 25% total oil content. Check with a motorcycle dealer who sells stuff for competition. You can get a quart bottle of Klotz BeNol Racing Castor oil to add to fuel. Here in US it goes for around $10 per quart.

On the .049's, the Castor oil will protect the piston / connecting rod ball and socket joint and the aluminum bearing surface of the crankcase. Synth detergents help to keep the varnish from building up excessively. (BTDT, after so many runs on pure Castor oil fuel, have to periodically break down the engine and devarnish the cylinder with steel wool.)

YMMV.

Edit - corrected misspelling of "Klotz".

mick1404

sweet, good call, thanks heaps, I would rather remove castor oil from my models and engine/s than have one wear out on me, thanks again.

GallopingGhostler

You're welcome, Mick1404.

Here's one of my Fuji's, same 099S-II except it is R/C and the later ABC version.

Mr Cox

Here is a little "time-line" of their development, going from iron/steel on the left to schneurle porting and ABC on the right.

mick1404

Absolutely beautiful, and you still have the original packaging, and the R/C version, I will be keeping a close eye for R/C versions for my engine collection. I'm also on the lookout for any Taipan diesels, as they are Australian, I must have one LOL.

mick1404

absolutely beautiful, and they are so clean, just like they were fresh out of the box. It is obvious you look after them, thanks for the pics.

mick1404

oh, I forgot to ask, how hard would it be to get hold of the original exhaust? I might have to ask my friend to have another look in his dads garage for it as I have a feeling it might be a mission to find an original one.

GallopingGhostler

That may be difficult as the Fuji's were not as popular as OS or other brands.

The following measurements are from my 099S-II ABC: muffler bolt distance 26 mm on centers. Engine exhaust exit inner dimensions: 5.07 mm tall by 16.2 mm wide. Exhaust exit outer dimension is 31.1 mm wide by 7.5 mm tall. An OS 871 muffler for a .15 will almost but not quite fit because the muffler's bolt spacing is 2 or 3 mm wider. Enya uses an exterior bracket, you might be able to find one that works, perhaps their .09 but I'd verify with the vendor its dimensions. Unfortunately I don't have one to give an assessment on.

GallopingGhostler

If you are referring to the Fuji .099SR ABC, yes, this is their Inner Bypass Schneurle (IBS) engine. The Fuji .099S-II ABC is not. I've attached a photo of the .099S-II ABC along with the OS Max10R/C.

The sleeve's two flutes shows it has been ported for standard cross scavenging. The piston is a baffle type, typical for cross scavenging. The heavier and thick chrome plated brass sleeve accounts for the engine's greater weight making it an ounce heavier than the OS. The OS's bypass is similar, but done through the case with a slot in the sleeve instead of sleeve fluting.

The following is stated in [link]http://www.modelenginenews.org/ad/fuji_ch4.html[/link]