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  1. #26

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Cross grain sheet the fuselage bottom, front and rear, with 1/16" sheet balsa. This is a good time to introduce a twist into your fuselage if you like. I'm holding it firm to the building board with a weight so that doesn't happen. I'll trim off the excess sheeting tomorrow when I can get outside to sand.
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  2. #27

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Bottom sheeting is trimmed. Next, prepare the nose doublers. Note that they are cross grain to the fuselage sides.
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  3. #28

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Oh man I cant wait to get one of these!!!!! keep buildin! looks great.

  4. #29

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500


    ORIGINAL: forsakenrider

    Oh man I cant wait to get one of these!!!!! keep buildin! looks great.
    Thanks! It's an easy build!

  5. #30

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Once the nose doublers are in place, glue in the triangle stock and trim to shape.
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  6. #31

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Next we will glue on the fuselage front top block. I made guide lines on the side and top to aid in planing and sanding in the profile shape.
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  7. #32

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Once the block is shaped to profile, I marked it at the instrument panel for the top radius and then glued it on. Once glued in place, I shaped the radius with a plane and sanding block.
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  8. #33

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Next sheet the cockpit floor with 1/16" balsa. Now we have enough done to put it together and bench fly while making airplane noises.
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  9. #34
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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Nnnyyyoooooooooowww
    Real Airplanes have Round Engines and Two Wings.

  10. #35

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Before we can build the turtledeck, we need the stab and fin in place. Before we do that, we need the wing bolted down in order to get the stab aligned properly. Here you see I inlet the trailing edge a little for the aileron torque tubes and glued them in place. Put Vaseline at the ends of the tubes so glue doesn't stick the links to the tubes. Next I glued the plywood wing bolt block into the fuselage. Then fit the 1/8" balsa block behind the torque tubes. Now glue on the 1/32" plywood reinforcing plate, drill a hole the tap size for your 8-32 bolt, remove wing and drill through it for passage of the bolt and then tap the plywood block 8-32. Here the wing is bolted on ready for stab fitment.
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  11. #36

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Test fit and mount the horizontal stab. )I did find a problem with the stab being too long at the center by 1/8". I consulted with Steve and we decided to trim it back to fit. This is the sort of thing he is looking to correct before the kit is released.) Do this with the wing bolted in place for reference. Assure the tips are equal distance from each wing tip and that it is parallel to the wing and glue in place. Note that the front turtledeck is in place. That was done after the stabilizer was glued in (see next steps).
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  12. #37

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Laminate TD-1 and TD-2. This makes a 1/8" ledge for the 1/8" square turtledeck stringers. Make an angle template to set the front turtledeck former (TD-1 and TD-2 assembly) to the correct tilt. Glue in place.
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  13. #38

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Now it's time to glue on the vertical fin. I found a problem with the fin not matching the plan. Steve is aware of this and will correct the kit. I had to trim a little off the top of the rudder so the parts will match. Be sure it is on the center line and is square to the stab. Also make sure the trailing edge is in line with the rear of the fuselage. Once the fin is glued in, we will glue on the TD-5 turtledeck former.
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  14. #39

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Next glue in the top stringer. Then you can fit TD-3 and TD-4. Glue in the remaining stringers. Blend all together by sanding.
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  15. #40

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    I happened to have an old SIG canopy on hand that looks like it might contain the canopy for this airplane. I held it over the plan in side view and marked the rough outline.
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  16. #41

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Good news! It fits! The canopy number is WC809, clear 9" WWII universal bubble canopy. Better news! SIG still sells it:
    http://sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.ex...ntF.html?E+Sig
    Edit: Their site won't let me link to the product page.
    On the left side menu:
    click on Aircraft Accessories
    click on Scale Accessories
    click on Canopies and Cockpit Coaming
    click on SIG WWII canopies in the box that opens on the page.
    It is the 9" canopy
    Or see post number 45 below for a direct link. Thanks Andrew!
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  17. #42

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    I just had to do this. The landing gear it is sitting on is not from the kit. It is a SIG Hummer landing gear. I still have to bend the landing gear wire, cut out and fit the ailerons, assemble the elevator parts and then I'll be ready for finish shaping/sanding in preparation for covering.
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  18. #43
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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    More airplane noises... Nnnyyyoooooooooowww.

    Landing gear looks good like that.. May have to do an option.
    Real Airplanes have Round Engines and Two Wings.

  19. #44

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500


    ORIGINAL: skaliwag

    More airplane noises... Nnnyyyoooooooooowww.

    Landing gear looks good like that.. May have to do an option.
    I've used that gear on a lot of 1/2A planes. It works good so i always have one or two on hand.

  20. #45

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    SIG can be aggravating when trying to set links. This should take you directly to the canopy that was referenced.

    SIG Canopies

    BTW, I've also used the SIG Hummer gear on several planes - it's size and shape works well with most 1/2A sized fuselages. Being a bit lazy, I find the aluminum gear to be easier to fit, saves bending wire and cuts down on fabricating the L/G blocks.

    SIG Hummer Gear
    the "other" andrew
    I'm not older than dirt, but I can remember when it was patent pending

  21. #46

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500


    ORIGINAL: Andrew

    SIG can be aggravating when trying to set links. This should take you directly to the canopy that was referenced.

    SIG Canopies

    BTW, I've also used the SIG Hummer gear on several planes - it's size and shape works well with most 1/2A sized fuselages. Being a bit lazy, I find the aluminum gear to be easier to fit, saves bending wire and cuts down on fabricating the L/G blocks.

    SIG Hummer Gear
    Thanks for the direct links Andrew! I made a note in my Post 41 above.

  22. #47

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    I'm following you on this build Bro...Looks Fantastic..glad the canopy fits..I always end up making one..the landing gear thing is something I do as well..LOL....
    What colors ya going for?


    guamflyer P-40 Bro #5 & #6
    guamflyer P-40 Bro #5 guamflyer\'\'s Dad #6
    SLOPE FAST - SOAR DEEP

  23. #48

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    Hollis -

    When you shaped the front deck, did you take any wood off the bottom or did you leave it flat?

    Steve -

    Although Hollis has done an excellent job of fairing in the stringers on either side of the vertical fin, my inclination (being lazy again) would be to stop the stringers at the last former, then use a shaped block from the former aft. For me, it would be easier to sand to shape and perhaps make covering a little less complex.

    the "other" andrew
    I'm not older than dirt, but I can remember when it was patent pending

  24. #49
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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    I agree. On the proto I did shape two 5/8 sq blocks. I am going to kit this model and 6 inches of 5/8 sq costs more than a few inches of 1/8 sq balsa. Sqquueeeeek.
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    Real Airplanes have Round Engines and Two Wings.

  25. #50

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    RE: Build Thread: Selextra 500

    @guamflyer Thanks for following! I haven't settled on a trim scheme yet. I've been looking at pics of full size Extra300L for ideas.

    @Andrew I did not hollow the bottom of the front block. It was very good wood and the part you could hollow is very close to where the CG will be, so I don't think the few grams would be worth it. Re the turtledeck stringers: I'm sure Steve will chime in, but we had that conversation. I'm inclined to do it as you suggested if I were scratch building, but Steve pointed out that it would require another wood size to be included in the kit. After having this in hand, I believe it will be easy enough to cover as is. I will detail how I tackle the covering as I get to the that part of the build.

    Thanks all for following along. The thread has gotten a fair amount of views in just over a week.


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