flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

soaked it in oil took the head off oiled it up again and shot the starter to it for a while, a couple of times, built a test stand out of a 1 x 4 and hooked up a tank and lines put in some 7 year old 15% nitro and fired it up and it ran for about 20 seconds , hahahaha I love it, sounds buzzy but fairly quiet, I am not gonna be able to stand myself now til I fly it. lololol..Rog

jettstarblue

Whoa, dude, you sound just like me when I fired up my .049 Norvel after fighting with the Cox engines for years.
I'LL NEVER GO BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!

Jetts

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Yep! They are pretty nice. I only have the .074 and .061 right now. Both run pretty good, like them. I heat the cylinder with the hot air gun before I put the starter to a new one, might have to do that a couple of times till it loosens up. Starts easy, then let it run at variable rpms for about two or three tanks to loosen it up good. No problems after that.
Edwin

CAPtain232

My Feedback: (40)

Oh that thing is JUNK!!!


Why don't you sell it to me??!!!! LOL

I have been looking for one of these.

Jeff

goldguy

I have broken in a number of Norvel .074's, out of the box there are very tight at TDC and almost impossible to hand flip until broken in. Solution..............remove the head, load up with fuel and hit it with a 1/2A sized electric starter for a few seconds, reassemble and there you have it. Works for me!

Fly SMALL, Have A BALL

Bipe Flyer

Hey goldguy, I recoginize that nickname! I think it's the tightness in part that makes the Norvels such powerful, good running engines once they're broken in.

Andrew Donatelli

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

well while I got ya'll here after breakin do they start by hand ok.easy,???or do I need to carry the starter?
thanks again ya'll/////// Rog

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I always use the starter. No flipin props for me. Got 18 stitches about 5 years ago that cured me of that. I dont prime the engine just to make sure it doesnt get any hydro lock.
Edwin

2fast4u

My Feedback: (5)

Hay GOLDGUY......Just a quick note......Back when Norvel was Norvel and not ACE, the guys there were very easy to talk to. My first .074 was so tight it would not turn over. I called them to talk about the problem. They recomended that I NOT use fuel to lube the engine. See fuel is not a very good lubricant before it is burned. The alcohol tends to want to strip any lube from the cylinder which can cause the piston to freeze up. Once the alcohol is burned off it leaves behind the oil. The oil then protects the parts from the alcohol that is moving through the engine. The best way (and the way Norvel always recomended) to lube the Rev-Lite engines, is to pull the head, add oil (I use 10W30 but almost anything will work) to the cylinder, turn the engine by hand slowly for a minute or so, then put a starter to it for about 30 seconds. If there was little improvment, repeat the process. It works great and has produced some super .074's for me.

I'm not knocking your process, it's just that with these rods breaking, a little extra care may be needed. I did just what your doing on my first .074, using fuel to try to lubricate it. The engine would just stop hard all of a sudden while running. Then it would produce a loud squeek as I tried to turn it. I thought it was a gonner, but after talking to Norvel and doing what they told me, it began to come alive. Now 3 years later, it's still going strong and is only on it's 2nd plug.

Some people are soaking the engines in oil and letting them sit for 12-24 hours. I don't think it helps the process due to the extreme hardness of the ceramic coating used, but it sure can't hurt either. I would love to see anyone who runs an OS 10 try a Norvel .074. Once they break in, WOW! Have fun guys.....

sturmvogel

I've got a Norvel .074 in a Herr Cherokee that's probably going to wait for spring to fly. I'm really impressed with the Norvels. BTW, I just bought an AP .061 and to say it's a Norvel clone is to be accurate! I'd be surprised if it's not made by the same company. The Norvel .15BB is a real screamer! The best .07, though, I think is the Thunder Tiger .07. It's got a muffler that is really quiet, hand starts great, will handle a relatively large prop and is just very "user friendly". AND, it doesn't use a glow head...

sturmvogel

I just received the latest edition of Aviation Week and it has a picture and short article on a little unmanned aerial vehicle (13" wing span, 6 ounces) that has flown for 107 minutes!! It's electric, uses lithium-ion batteries, and it's planned that it will next be equiped with an autopilot and a color video camera. Any pride that I've had in planes I've designed and built is gone!!!

Bipe Flyer

I've got both the TT .07 and the Norvel .074. Both are great running engines, but the Norvel .074 has about 15% more power than the TT and isn't as thirsty. I also like the smaller muffler. The Norvel .074 idles much lower than it's little brother the .061 and costs less than the TT.
I don't know where people got the idea that Norvels use glow heads.

Bipe Flyer

I find it pretty hard to flip start my Norvels. The spring starter works fine, but can't be used if you have a spinner. I use a ½A electric starter.

Norvel, Sullivan and Miller RC all make ½A starters.

sturmvogel

I hand start all my engines-that's everything from .018 up to .65! And all my Norvel engines have glow heads except the .15 & .25!
Bob

Bipe Flyer

Do you have Cox heads on your Norvels? All of my Cox engines have glow heads. I've got Norvels ranging from .049 to .15 and none have glow heads. Have you tried removing the heads on your Norvels? The plug is held in place by the head, but is not part of it.

I've attached a picture showing the plugs and heads on a BigMig .074, an AME .049 and a BigMig .061.

goldguy

Well. let me get a word in Andrew. it's Frank from Nanaimo, the goldguy. I have a gold plating business and my customers gave me the nick name, it was either that or "Goldie Locks" and you have seen my hair line!!!

I have a gold plates TX which the locals call my "pimp TX".

Anyhoo, regarding Norvel engines, the first thing I do is remove the screen from the carb. Maybe it's just me but I think it definately makes an improvement.

I also like the TT 07, but I don't think it has the tork of the Norvel.

Put the Norvel .074 on a 16"X16" Pizza Box Flyer and will be trying it out Sunday, in the rain.


Fly SMALL, Have A BALL

CAPtain232

My Feedback: (40)

I have several question for you guys....

Where are you orering your NORVEL engines from?

What is the best way to set them up, what head/glow plug, take the screen out of carb......?

What prop should I put on the .061 and the .074 for flying 1/2a trainer type planes?

Jeff

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

got mine here
at quantum good price great service,, mine is a .074 I took the screen out of the carb for break in at home on the bench, probably leave it out.. and I have a 7 x 4 prop on it, haha works great on the bench but I have an APC 7 x 5 prop on order, mine is for an Extra 230, sounds sweet, still on break in, run one 2 oz tank through it so far, seems a bit hungry but its probably from breakin and me wishin I was flyin... get one.. Rog

oh , use the plug it comes with and a cox wrench will work on the head

Bipe Flyer

I bought a couple direct from Norvel before SIG started distributing them. I buy most of them from http://www.greathobbies.com .

I use the Freedom XL Norvel plugs because they're hotter and less expensive than regular plugs. I remove the carb screen and the small bolt that restricts the throttle arm. I custom order Red Max fuel from FHS Supply . I have it mixed 20% Castor and 15% nitro for breakin fuel and 20% Castor and 25% nitro for flying. For the .061 I use either an APC 5.7X3 or APC 6X2 for extra thrust (great for a flying boat). I use an APC 7X3 or MA 7X3 on my .074s.

goldguy

2fast4u, I agree with your post, but remember that the lower end is lubed by unspent fuel, so there has to be some value in my method.

goldguy

CAPtain 232.......my older AME .061 really sing on a Tornado white nylon 5 1/2 X 3. The prop also depends on the aircraft you are flying.

Bipe Flyer

Another point to consider is what fuel is used for break in. I use 20% castor in my Norvels and break them in the way Frank described. Norvel's reccomendations likely err on the side of caution, as well they should, because some people may be using lower oil content or synthetic.

sturmvogel

Bipe Guy,
You're absolutely correct when you said that no Norvels have glow heads. As President Nixon proclaimed "...I misspoke...", the point I was trying to make was that I could just go to the LHS and buy a glow plug for the TT .07 rather than use the specialized glow plug the Norvels use. One really excellent Norvel feature is the wrench that they give you-it really fits! I've got a bunch of Norvels and the only thing that I'd wish for is a long stroke sport engine that allows use of a larger prop. I've ran a Royal Spitfire .045 with a 9/4 prop on it! The bad side is that the Andersons only put out about 1/5 of a Norvel! Have a good one!

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Don't be so hard on yourself, with $20,000,000.00 you could have done it too!

Bipe Flyer

sturmvogel,

It's true that the Norvels use a special plug, but they cost less than an OS #8. To be honest, I have more spare Norvel plugs, and engines for that matter, than standard plugs, so I consider the standard plugs as being the oddballs.

I wish that there was a better prop selection for the norvels. I usually use an APC 5.7X3 or 6X2 for the .061 and an APC or MA 7X3 for the .074. I wish that someone would make 6.5X2, 7x2 and 7.5X2 props. I prefer thrust over speed, but it is difficult to find props where the pitch is less than half of the diameter.


_________________________
½A all the way!