Looking for an RTF / ARTF "Park flyer" sized model for "Nitro" power
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chester, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looking for an RTF / ARTF "Park flyer" sized model for "Nitro" power
Hi all
I currently have a Parkzone "ultra micro" Spitfire that I use on a local field (not actually a public park, but similar). I am very happy with it. (I also fly bigger models / powered gliders, at other venues, etc).
What I am now looking for is an ARTF roughly 1/2A or smaller sized model with a "proper" engine (I have a selection of small motors I could use)
Anyone got any suggestions ?
I currently have a Parkzone "ultra micro" Spitfire that I use on a local field (not actually a public park, but similar). I am very happy with it. (I also fly bigger models / powered gliders, at other venues, etc).
What I am now looking for is an ARTF roughly 1/2A or smaller sized model with a "proper" engine (I have a selection of small motors I could use)
Anyone got any suggestions ?
Last edited by ghost123uk; 11-30-2013 at 03:10 AM.
#2
Virtually any electric with a 1 meter or so wingspan can be converted with a little effort. I put a PAW .09 Diesel R/C engine in an Electrifly Fokker VII (IIRC) and used a 2 oz. (60 ml) tank. I flew OK, although I later reconverted it to electric. It all depends on what type of plane you are interested in.
John C
John C
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chester, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for that.
Does the foam these electric RTF's are made of stand up to Glow and or Diesel fuel ?
Interested an a 1Meter or a bit less size, semi scale "look", aileron, but not a nail bitingly twitchy screamer Mind you, if a foam RTF can be used with fuel, the world is my Oyster isn't it
Does the foam these electric RTF's are made of stand up to Glow and or Diesel fuel ?
Interested an a 1Meter or a bit less size, semi scale "look", aileron, but not a nail bitingly twitchy screamer Mind you, if a foam RTF can be used with fuel, the world is my Oyster isn't it
#4
My Feedback: (5)
All of my foam planes now are electric but I had a foam plane in the 80's with a glow engine on it. The fuel didn't "eat" the foam and it held up to the vibrations but the fuel weeped into the foam and it started to look ratty ,got heavier,and was difficult to repair. If I had known then what I know now, I would have sealed the foam and I'm sure that would have helped. I seal the foam with water based polyurethane or regular poly if the foam will handle it and that keeps dirt ,etc...off and keeps it looking good. You could also cover it with shrink coating . Either method should keep the unburned fuel from getting into the foam along with cleaning it immediately after every flight.
#7
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Orangeville, ON, CANADA
Posts: 8,658
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
The EPO foam parkies are generally made from today is far more solvent resistant than trad polystyrene foam - think along the lines of polyethylene. I experimented with an accidentally-disassembled Parkzone Spitfire - I found for example, that vinylester resin sticks quite aggressively and did an okay job on a couple of sections I glassed with 3.2oz glass cloth. However it - and polyester resin - will vaporize PS foam almost before the brush makes contact.
I'd be more worried about any factory paint finish than the foam itself. My first instinct would be to brush on a coat of low viscosity epoxy lam resin as fuel proofing. Only because I don't use polyu or the like for fuelproofing and have no experience with them.
I'd be more worried about any factory paint finish than the foam itself. My first instinct would be to brush on a coat of low viscosity epoxy lam resin as fuel proofing. Only because I don't use polyu or the like for fuelproofing and have no experience with them.
#8
I've never been interested by the foam planes, but there are plenty of kits made in balsa that are suitable. In order to have a true parkflyer though you need to go down in engine size I think. I have a J3 cub (with a peewee) that was designed for indoor flying that flies very well outdoors on no-wind days, it is also slow enough to keep really close. I don't fly in parks but with this one it might be possible...
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chester, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All good input chaps
Does that Pee Wee have an r/c carb ?
I was thinking foam because of it's crash (well more "rough landing on a bumpy field") resistance, but thinking more about it, I guess a model this small has little inertia and so would survive "farm field" landings much in the way an free flight model does ?
I have a "just run in" Thunder Tiger 09 that should perhaps be my chosen power plant, I have nothing smaller. Now, I wonder what (RTF) frame would fit around that and make a relaxing flyer ?
Does that Pee Wee have an r/c carb ?
I was thinking foam because of it's crash (well more "rough landing on a bumpy field") resistance, but thinking more about it, I guess a model this small has little inertia and so would survive "farm field" landings much in the way an free flight model does ?
I have a "just run in" Thunder Tiger 09 that should perhaps be my chosen power plant, I have nothing smaller. Now, I wonder what (RTF) frame would fit around that and make a relaxing flyer ?
#10
I have never seen an .09 TT. I have a TT .07 that may be a good match for a Stryker possibly. I also have a TT .10 that would be too big for that plane IMHO. It is kind of a dog anyway. I am not sure the Stryker would be relaxing. The .020 has no throttle available that I am aware of except home made ones.
#12
I have used a home made exhaust throttle on the Cub shown above, it worked quite well but you have to get a very good seal against the cylinder in order to get low rpms. Runs are always a bit unstable on the peewee, not sure if the needle is simply too coarse, or if the tank heats up, but it will rarely run well for a full tank (for me at least). So lately I have used a diesel conversion head instead, it gives a much more stable running (never quits until the fuel is gone) and one can run a larger prop, a 6x3 is no problem and it flies much better and scale like compared to the stock peewee prop. I haven't tried the exhaust throttle on diesel yet, that could perhaps be the best combination.
#13
A Kadet EP-42 converted to glow power?
Just spotted this, not sure what to think: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00mm_PNF_.html
Just spotted this, not sure what to think: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00mm_PNF_.html
#15
My Feedback: (1)
Reply to Mr Cox's post. Diesel T/Ring
I've tried it.. two negatives working against you.
Slowing the diesel down it cools it and the comp setting is wrong.
Because of the restricted exhaust there is nowhere for the unburnt fuel mix to go.
Having the engine mounted sideways may help because as soon as you open the exhaust the old oil and kero mix just gets blown away
I did get an old DC Merlin to run pretty good with a ring set up once though. No pics of it running but still have the engine.
I've tried it.. two negatives working against you.
Slowing the diesel down it cools it and the comp setting is wrong.
Because of the restricted exhaust there is nowhere for the unburnt fuel mix to go.
Having the engine mounted sideways may help because as soon as you open the exhaust the old oil and kero mix just gets blown away
I did get an old DC Merlin to run pretty good with a ring set up once though. No pics of it running but still have the engine.
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chester, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@ ASPEED, thinking about it, the TT is a .10 not a .09
I will strongly consider that, it looks like a relaxing fly, with a plus that it has ailerons
Just spotted this, not sure what to think: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00mm_PNF_.html