skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

Need feedback for this round tank.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXZCL2&P=ML

Mr Cox

I haven't tried the 1oz one, but the 2 and 3oz ones work well. They are lightweight too with their smaller plug into the tank compared to the much larger and heavier plugs on the tanks from Du-bro and Sullivan etc.

Andrew

It's a header tank, so you'll need to block one of the nipples. While convenient, for our applications, a wedding bubble or film can may be more applicable.

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

I've had airplanes die from internal bleeding caused by film cans and adapted shampoo bottles. I don't trust them anymore.
Blocking a nipple is not a problem. This tank seems just about right for a Sure Start. They run 3 1/4 minute on the 8cc back plate so one ounce should give 10 to 12 mins.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Cool, didn't know they had a 1oz. I like the form factor of the 2 and 3 ounce. My first instinct (perhaps foolish) as a weight fanatic would be to replace the clunk line with lightweight 1/2A silicone tubing (.i.e. not "small", but Texas Timers thinwall or the like) and a lighter clunk.

This would be a great tank for .049/.061's on pressure.

Andrew

If your tank is in a location that may be easily reached, how about a pressureless balloon tank. Typical party balloons don't have good longevity WRT fuels, but nitrile gloves are normally pretty resistant to many chemicals, can be purchased in various thicknesses and are cheap (not to mention, you'll get 5 tanks per hand. )

You get fuel flow in all attitudes, no foaming and they will empty out fully.

Mr Cox

They are already lighter than the regular clunks since they have to fit into the smaller hole in the tank. A major weight saving come from not having to have the large rubber plug that other tanks have.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Like the small Sulivan tanks.. that weigh almost as much as the engine.

hllywdb

I've switched all my 1oz tanks to these. You don't have to block the nipple, only one of them is "live" you have to drill the second one out to use it. They are lighter than the sullivans and the clunk works much better. I have had zero problems with them. Using them on a couple of backplate pressure motors too. I find they are much easier to mount in small spaces and the slant tanks are a pain with the tubes coming out at funky angles. For motors without a muffler I just run the vent hose up to the top of the cowl and use a small landing gear strap to hold it and cut the end at a slant.

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

Which brand and size tubing do you use inside?

hllywdb

All of them. Not trying to be funny but I have a drawer full of tubing, mostly because each time I go to order more I don't remember which one I liked the best so I order a few different types to be sure I get the "good" kind. The blue stuff is ok, but the thin clear or white is better, I like to use thinner stuff inside so it doesn't kink on the bends. I also have some from Texas Timers that I like as well. It's thin wall and holds on the nipples well. By the way the Hayes tank has real nipples so the tubing doesn't come off like it does on the brass lines. And there is no brass inside the tank to turn leftover fuel into the green oxydized goo.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Sullivan brand small tubing is good stuff. It has a grip range from 1/16" up to 1/8".

Toad

I really like the black Hayes neoprene fuel line supplied. stiff, looks like it wont work, once wet it grows in length and gets really flexible. cut it short to start with. it will color the first few tanks of fuel. hurts nothing and lasts yrs literally in the tank. It is the Preferred tubing for the nitro heli's. Works great for short clunk lines.

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the heads up on the Hayes tubing. I wasn't going to use it, now I may have to. Does the cap seal OK?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, the caps seal very well. This is the only brand I use any more unless I need a bubbleless tank [in the larger sizes].