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Thread: too big nyrods


  1. #1

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    too big nyrods

    I think I goofed and am looking for suggestions. I put regular size nyrods in my scratch-built rcmodeler trainer 5 from plans. It's a 36" wingspan-18 0z. high wing trainer. I am putting hitec 55 servos in and I didn't realize that it took smaller connectors and inner rods or wire to the servo arms. I already have the fuselage enclosed, ready to cover. Is it possible to put smaller rod or wire inside the outer nyrod or will I have to rip it out and start over? Thanks for any thoughts or help.
    Mike.

  2. #2
    combatpigg's Avatar
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    Mike......You could use the plastic conduits you already installed to slide in the smaller nyrod system...?.
    WHO GUNNA FEED MAW KEEEIDS..???

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    I think that might be possible. I'll take it to my local hobby shop and check it out to see if it fits.

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    Quote Originally Posted by combatpigg View Post
    Mike......You could use the plastic conduits you already installed to slide in the smaller nyrod system...?.
    Slide the inner rod into the outer, then use a piece of 3/64 music wire as your push rod using the inner nyrod as your guide. I've done this frequently, but tossed the outer sheath and just used the inner rod alone as a guide. You can let the inner rod extend beyond the ends of the outer rod as a support for the wire. On small planes, 3/64" wire is quite stiff enough if supported most of its length.
    the "other" andrew
    I'm not older than dirt, but I can remember when it was patent pending

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    MJD's Avatar
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    Agreed - the best small linkages I've made are with .047 wire in a plastic guide. I make drill bits from the wire itself - first grind flats on both sides then a point - then drill new zero (almost zero) -clearance holes in the horns and arms. I run the bit in the new hole just long enough to make it a free turning bushing fit but no detectable slop.

    If the outer will come out you can insert the inner nyrod then pull the outer away from around it leaving the inner rod routed where you need it.
    Sorry I'm late dear, I had to help my uncle Jack off his horse.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MJD View Post
    ................ I make drill bits from the wire itself - first grind flats on both sides then a point - then drill new zero (almost zero) -clearance holes in the horns and arms. I run the bit in the new hole just long enough to make it a free turning bushing fit but no detectable slop.
    Great minds must think alike.

    For small holes in soft stock, the chisel point music wire bits make better, more accurate holes without tearing the adjacent material and I have better luck ensuring the location of the hole --- standard bits sometimes have a tendency to wander leaving a wallowed out entrance.
    the "other" andrew
    I'm not older than dirt, but I can remember when it was patent pending

  7. #7
    MJD's Avatar
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    In my official tupperware tub full of Dremel bits, there are probably 3-4 of these homebrew drill bits in every wire size from 1/16" down that I've ever used.
    Sorry I'm late dear, I had to help my uncle Jack off his horse.

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    thanks for all the help,I will definitely use the 047 wire and make a drill bit out of that wire. My project just got easier. A side note- what is your opinion on the easy connectors that I see some people use for the connection to the servo?

  9. #9
    MJD's Avatar
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    I hate them.. LOL.. And prefer to use an L bend with an EZ-link keeper or a Z-bend. The keepers come in .047. I just don't trust anything with set screw type retention on a vehicle powered by a vibration generator. Personal choice.

    I also use L-bends with orthodontic rubber band retainers.. I even have one on the mixture linkage on .65 ducted fan engine and it stays put. YMMV..
    Sorry I'm late dear, I had to help my uncle Jack off his horse.

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    This is probably going to sound dumb, how does the other end at the control surface connect so that you can make adjustments? I'm new to the small stuff,I was used to the threaded ends on ny-rods in my bigger planes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MJD View Post
    I hate them.. LOL.. And prefer to use an L bend with an EZ-link keeper or a Z-bend. The keepers come in .047. I just don't trust anything with set screw type retention on a vehicle powered by a vibration generator. Personal choice.
    And I like them...LOL.

    I use an L bend, but retain the pushrod with a piece of insulation from a small gauge wire. Just make sure the L bend is long enough to use about 1/4" of insulation.

    For the Easy Connectors, I agree with Mike that a hardened steel set screw tightened against hardened music wire has the potential to loosen since it will not get much of a "bite". However, if you're a shotgunner or have a friend that hunts, choose a shell that contains shot that is about the diameter of the setscrew. I drop a pellet into the Easy Connector, then tighten the set screw down against that. The lead will deform around the wire and the end of the set screw and keep the screw from coming loose and hold the wire in place. If you don't have access to lead pellets, a little piece of solder will serve the same purpose.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    the "other" andrew
    I'm not older than dirt, but I can remember when it was patent pending

  12. #12
    MJD's Avatar
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    Oddly enough the solder trick is exactly what I do when I do "have to" use them. "Hate" is a strong word, it was kind of tongue-in-cheek. They always worry me though, and I sleep better at night with L or Z bends and keepers.

    I tend to strip ez connectors, they get the gorilla-hand treatment due to my fear of them coming loose.
    Sorry I'm late dear, I had to help my uncle Jack off his horse.


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