The Nobler
#1
The Nobler
This isn't a build thread, I just wanted to share some recent photos I saw of this classic design.
I think it would make a great subject for a 1/2 A project, [naturally].
This is a "profile" fuselage version that would be a quick build for a 3D type plane. The built up fuselage version really is a handsome plane.The finish on the yellow plane was described simply as "ink". I've never heard of that before. It would still need a catalyzed clear epoxy or urethane over the ink as far as I know.
I think it would make a great subject for a 1/2 A project, [naturally].
This is a "profile" fuselage version that would be a quick build for a 3D type plane. The built up fuselage version really is a handsome plane.The finish on the yellow plane was described simply as "ink". I've never heard of that before. It would still need a catalyzed clear epoxy or urethane over the ink as far as I know.
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It may very well be ink. When I was a screen-printer we had opaque inks that we used for most stuff and then we had four-color process inks for photo-realistic prints. Yellow, Cyan, Magenta and Black. All the colors except black were very translucent. I've never heard of anyone using inks for an airplane finish before and don't know how it would work exactly. Screen print inks that I used wouldn't be suitable as they had to be heat cured. Offset printing inks would probably work as I think most of them are air-dry.
#3
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I use dyes bought from Aerodyne, in both Nitrate and butyrate dopes. I suppose the black is cut out tissue , as is the red around the letters and stars. The leading edge red is maybe red tissue doped with red dye. I have found the dyed dope to work to suit me.
George Aldrich drew up 1/2A plans, in two sizes, for the Nobler, Agwagon,and Magnum. I don't know who got these plans at one of the VSC auctions, and they seem to have vanished.
George Aldrich drew up 1/2A plans, in two sizes, for the Nobler, Agwagon,and Magnum. I don't know who got these plans at one of the VSC auctions, and they seem to have vanished.
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I, too, think this would be a great 3-D plane. I was just out flying my Nobler with an old Fox .35 Stunt motor on it Saturday. Wowed the people at the fly-in as most had never seen control line or only seen the COX Plastic POS when they were kids. Even let one guy try flying it. He did fine until about 10 laps into it when he over corrected and put it in the grass. No real damage, though. Just a carb full of dirt and a busted prop.
#6
The thread I spied about this plane is posted over at Stuka. It was mentioned that the red and black is colored tissue.
It would be nice to find the 1/2 A Nobler drawings. This is such a timeless design and would look just as good with a Q-40 wing and a screaming Nelson as it would any other way you could wish to do it.
With a fine enough sanding job down to about 600 I was wondering if wiping the wood down with copy machine yellow ink would work, followed up with a clear fuel proofer..?
It would be nice to find the 1/2 A Nobler drawings. This is such a timeless design and would look just as good with a Q-40 wing and a screaming Nelson as it would any other way you could wish to do it.
With a fine enough sanding job down to about 600 I was wondering if wiping the wood down with copy machine yellow ink would work, followed up with a clear fuel proofer..?
#8
The Brodak Nobler looks like it might have a sliding cowl to suit any engine installation.
I'd be curious to see a Fox .35 stunt engine pull the original design through the full pattern..
I've heard talk about 1/2 A stunt contests but have never seen it. I tried to build a flapped 1/2 A stunter but my combo was too fast, or the lines were too short, or both.
Time to look for video somewhere.......
I'd be curious to see a Fox .35 stunt engine pull the original design through the full pattern..
I've heard talk about 1/2 A stunt contests but have never seen it. I tried to build a flapped 1/2 A stunter but my combo was too fast, or the lines were too short, or both.
Time to look for video somewhere.......
Last edited by combatpigg; 05-27-2014 at 10:02 PM.
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Andrew, are you talking about me or the plane being an old regular? As for me, I'm just starting to get back into flying after losing my wife of 13 years. There was a lot to do afterwards. But now I'm back and trying to get my hanger back into action.
CP, if I could do the full pattern, I'd try it. But, as I am pretty much at the wingovers and loops only stage, that isn't going to happen.
CP, if I could do the full pattern, I'd try it. But, as I am pretty much at the wingovers and loops only stage, that isn't going to happen.
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We're all allowed to lie about age here I think.. when necessary for improved self-esteem or other nefarious purposes.
I notice the lap times seem a little frantic on the videos I found so far, or is that just me. I'm no stunt flier, just stunted.
I notice the lap times seem a little frantic on the videos I found so far, or is that just me. I'm no stunt flier, just stunted.
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Some years ago I got the structure built for a full-size Flite Streak constructed with the BareCat method to be powered by one of my TeeDees & flown (hopefully) on 42 ft. Spiderwire lines. Obviously it’d have to be flown in dead calm conditions & would have to have serious thrustline & line sweep tuning but I think it would fly very well. Oh yeah, I thinned the airfoil too. It has the same carbon strip reinforced 6mm Depron profile fuse with 1/64 ply sandwich beam mounts, Depron ribs, Solite covering, yada, yada and the fixed flaps were made from stripped Walmart sturdyboard foam. Without a radio & batteries, the thing would’ve weighed maybe 5 or 6 oz. if that much. If memory serves, the BareCat was 9.5 with 5 servos, receiver, battery, etc.
Unfortunately, I tried to shrink the covering in the wife’s oven and ruined the wing. I was so disgusted with myself I haven’t touched it since. One of these days….
#13
MJD, those lap times were just a little bit "brisk" but I think with a 5.7 x 3 or 6 x 3, etc. you have to keep the momentum up to do the overhead stunts. We'll see about that. Those engine runs were perfectly steady, those planes breezed through all of those stunts so smooth and those pilots really make those 4 foot pull outs look easy..!
I just need to stay focused for a couple more months on other stuff before jumping off into a 1/2 A stunter.
Exocet, I'm real sorry to hear about your loss but glad to see that you are "back at it" here. Just keep practicing those stunts [except for the figure 9's].
Dickeybird, I remember your Rare Bare Cat but I always thought it was a finished product that you let those Profile Brotherhood Hippies have their way with...?
I hope you do devote some time to building a Super 1/2 A Stunt Machine that can keep those 42 footers tight. I think APC sells a 6 x 2, but I've never tried one for a project like this.
Your pal Design Man has a 1/2 A stunt plane on display over at Stuka right now. He used a novel covering idea that involved a super lightweight iron on material [that I've never heard of] applied over silkspan / dope. The idea is to avoid using much dope and also to get a durable skin.
I ought to ask him for details.
I think my ideal 1/2 A machine will weigh next to nothing, put out about 18 ozs of thrust, have sufficient drag to act as a speed governor and enough line tension to make those 42 foot lines sing in the wind...oh yah, it will also look like a Nobler..!
I just need to stay focused for a couple more months on other stuff before jumping off into a 1/2 A stunter.
Exocet, I'm real sorry to hear about your loss but glad to see that you are "back at it" here. Just keep practicing those stunts [except for the figure 9's].
Dickeybird, I remember your Rare Bare Cat but I always thought it was a finished product that you let those Profile Brotherhood Hippies have their way with...?
I hope you do devote some time to building a Super 1/2 A Stunt Machine that can keep those 42 footers tight. I think APC sells a 6 x 2, but I've never tried one for a project like this.
Your pal Design Man has a 1/2 A stunt plane on display over at Stuka right now. He used a novel covering idea that involved a super lightweight iron on material [that I've never heard of] applied over silkspan / dope. The idea is to avoid using much dope and also to get a durable skin.
I ought to ask him for details.
I think my ideal 1/2 A machine will weigh next to nothing, put out about 18 ozs of thrust, have sufficient drag to act as a speed governor and enough line tension to make those 42 foot lines sing in the wind...oh yah, it will also look like a Nobler..!
#14
Exocet --
So very sorry to hear of the loss of your wife. I was referring to you as one of the old regulars.
Interesting that another name from the past has cropped up in this thread -- as always, good to hear from Dickeybird, too.
andrew
So very sorry to hear of the loss of your wife. I was referring to you as one of the old regulars.
Interesting that another name from the past has cropped up in this thread -- as always, good to hear from Dickeybird, too.
andrew
#16
Yes, that would make a good looking outline to try for 1/2 A 3D.
My earlier attempts ended up heavier than they should have for true 1/2 A 3D.
Even with installing pull / pull controls and making the tail group so flimsy it needed guy wires made from thread.
So far my best performing 1/2 A 3Ders have been the PBF type jobs made with balsa sticks. I had one that weighed about 8 or 9 ozs with a Babybee on it and even with no throttle it could hover. It didn't really need a rudder, either. The rudder was helpful but the model was very capable with just a pair of elevons banging away.
The bulk of the weight is the engine itself and the on board battery pack[no surprise to anybody]. This is where evaluating the best option is important before gluing the first pieces of wood together.
I think a Norvel Big Mig is the best option, but I'm not sure about the battery or servos. I think the rudder servo has jambed / failed on little 3D attempts more than the other controls. I tried 150 [and under] mah NMH packs and never got my money's worth out of them. It doesn't take much time to drain them, either.
There's one thing I'm fairly certain of, using craft store cellophane covering is pretty hard to beat for weight control. It needs the seams doubled with Scotch clear tape.
I found Hayes 1 oz "header tanks" and figure on using them for projects like this.
Well, gotta get back to the "grind stone" and get out of Bondo Purgatory with a car project that is taking 10 times longer than it should.
My earlier attempts ended up heavier than they should have for true 1/2 A 3D.
Even with installing pull / pull controls and making the tail group so flimsy it needed guy wires made from thread.
So far my best performing 1/2 A 3Ders have been the PBF type jobs made with balsa sticks. I had one that weighed about 8 or 9 ozs with a Babybee on it and even with no throttle it could hover. It didn't really need a rudder, either. The rudder was helpful but the model was very capable with just a pair of elevons banging away.
The bulk of the weight is the engine itself and the on board battery pack[no surprise to anybody]. This is where evaluating the best option is important before gluing the first pieces of wood together.
I think a Norvel Big Mig is the best option, but I'm not sure about the battery or servos. I think the rudder servo has jambed / failed on little 3D attempts more than the other controls. I tried 150 [and under] mah NMH packs and never got my money's worth out of them. It doesn't take much time to drain them, either.
There's one thing I'm fairly certain of, using craft store cellophane covering is pretty hard to beat for weight control. It needs the seams doubled with Scotch clear tape.
I found Hayes 1 oz "header tanks" and figure on using them for projects like this.
Well, gotta get back to the "grind stone" and get out of Bondo Purgatory with a car project that is taking 10 times longer than it should.
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This isn't a build thread, I just wanted to share some recent photos I saw of this classic design.
I think it would make a great subject for a 1/2 A project, [naturally].
This is a "profile" fuselage version that would be a quick build for a 3D type plane. The built up fuselage version really is a handsome plane.The finish on the yellow plane was described simply as "ink". I've never heard of that before. It would still need a catalyzed clear epoxy or urethane over the ink as far as I know.
I think it would make a great subject for a 1/2 A project, [naturally].
This is a "profile" fuselage version that would be a quick build for a 3D type plane. The built up fuselage version really is a handsome plane.The finish on the yellow plane was described simply as "ink". I've never heard of that before. It would still need a catalyzed clear epoxy or urethane over the ink as far as I know.
#19
Is it me or this looks like an early 2000 decade post ?
All my respect to you guys!!, I've learned a lot about these little jewels we simply call 1/2A model engines and airplanes, reading your posts along these years.
Thanks !
Claudio
All my respect to you guys!!, I've learned a lot about these little jewels we simply call 1/2A model engines and airplanes, reading your posts along these years.
Thanks !
Claudio