Pond Skipper

Dualsky Voltage Regulator 2S LIPO TO 5V Receiver POWER SUPPLY V-R3 UBEC or BEC

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1711057...ectorid=229466

the above is not a bad option if you just prefer to use what 2S lipo you have on hand.

Pond Skipper

I decided to buy 2 Hitec HS-45HB AGTT Feather Servo 33045S and a +1 for backup just in case one of them act up over time for the wing. During this time of waiting I have been bending torque rods and dry fitting my control system for the ailerons and flaps. I wanted ball bearings servo's in the wing for a tad more centering ability and general beef with the carbon gears but mainly for the servo size they are skinny and perfect to minimize the cutout size required to make thru the wing.
Will post a pic of the install in due time when the servo's come in Tues. here was my doodle to sort out the layout. The offset of the aileron servo will require some simple travel adjustments with the Dx6i.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

I bought a couple of HS45's recently as well - I was impressed by the relative beefiness of the gear train.

Pond Skipper

Good news to hear thank you!
I have their HS 35HD ultra nano's in the Lil Speedy and have been very impressed with their performance when using a IC engine, the vibrations have not affected them in the least.

Pond Skipper

Well to my surprise the Hitec HS-45HB servos came in a day early whoot. I noticed the weight is at 8.2g with the already mounted x style control horn. Another was the length of the control wire 10in on a micro this size is seems a tad much / perhaps as outboard wing servo's this would be just right.

Pond Skipper

Well after many self indulgences ie distractions, I have been doing some more work with EL Skorchin again.


I have some different cox powered options for the Skorch.
In the pic I have settled with:
- Galbraith head
- Nelson plug
- Tornado carb with air bleed
- Red anodized aluminum carb body
- Tatone muffler with pressure tap
- Tornado grish 5x4 prop with TD .09 spinner
- Phenolic thrust washer
- Non SPI .051 cylinder

I sourced some finishing supplies online:
I have applied 7 coats of fuel proofing gloss clear coats over the ply fuselage. I first filled in the grains with 2 part Z-poxy finishing resin squeezing off all excess resin off the fuselage so primarily only the grains were filled in then applied the gloss thinner coats using LustreKote by Top Flite. This method allows for a lighter finish without the need of fiberglass and a thick coat of the more heavy epoxy resin. With the drying / curing times involved the whole process took about a week to finish. So far the vertical stab and nylon pin hidged rudder have taken on the same trim treatment as the Lil Speedy with a thin ply footing incorporated for a solid bond to the horizontal stab.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Shiny! Do like...

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Here's some future bling - the little CF proto speed LG legs from Steve Wilk (Eliminator) are pretty small and sexy:

http://eliminatorprops.com/store/ind...&products_id=8

I grabbed a couple of pairs - I figure gluing/screwing the mounting tab to the inside of the fuselage side on a built up 1/2A would take up no space inside to speak of and look sexy. Less drag too I imagine, esp. if you clean up the LE and TE.

Pond Skipper

Yes seen those before, good price too!

I prefer with this plane:

- thin tall and lanky able to bend absorb shock loads on heavy impact
- wide stance to help project the low wing setup and its tips
- enables solid ground steering with steerable tail wheel and rudder
- ground roll stability over rough surfaces on natural ground

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Gotcha. I'm itching to put them on something, I do have a small 1/2A bipe in the wings, might be the ticket for that. They were too cool not to get some.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

On a similar subject (1/2A size bits) I also grabbed a 250mAh and 500mAh of these to check out:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...0mAh_1pc_.html

I've been running the 250 on the bench, works perfectly so far. 11.2g for an integrated 5V system - crazy. Overall they look solid enough, but recommend a drop of Goop at the base of the output wires - where they solder to the board looks like a potential fatigue trouble spot, needs strain relief from the board to the wire jacket to take the load off the connections IMHO.

Doh! I just looked back and realize the one you showed earlier was from HobbyKing too.. didn't realize until now. Great little things, hope the long term prognosis is good.

Mr Cox

The 19krpm on a 6x3 sounds like it is from AndyW?

He only got that by replacing everything apart from the crank and crankcase, these parts were on the other hand heavily worked on (enlarged intake). So I wouldn't call that a CS engine anymore...

The lowest rpm was probably obtained by CP (!) from memory I think it was around 12500rpm. Turned out the piston had a big casting deficiency in it...

Others reported around 15krpm on a rubber ducky 5x3, and that's from a .061 engine...

Edit; I was replying to Pond Skipper but his message is gone...?

Pond Skipper

Hey Kris,

I think you had landed on the first page or second of this thread in regards to the CS RC sport engine.
I do have a 36k rated 1/2A engine if I want to rip with the Skorch.

Mr Cox

Ahh, yes sorry about that, seems I ended up on the bottom of the first page although I clicked to go to the last message, computers...

Have you fired up the CS engine or will it stay in its box?

Pond Skipper

Yes per post #28 and 30 back in August. The engine shows promise I may try to open up the ports for more rpm with a dremel tool and add an air bleed hole as the idle lacks my expectations or it just needs more break in time.

Finished the tail group ready to glue down for final install. I have ply footings on the horizontal and vertical stab made for a strong setup and should the vertical stab snap off in a crash I wont be ripping out chunks of balsa as ply tends to break clean if forced.

Pond Skipper

Ok the tail group has a new home = }

The stunt flaps will work in conjunction with the elevator but the rudder is all on its own hence its aggressive size.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

It will be very cool to watch some really crisply executed "squares", "vertical hour glasses" and "square eights"..!

Pond Skipper

Yes with that much rudder I can prop hang if enough thrust.
Looking to fly fast enough to hold it on the fuselage for knife edge passes or have enough engine to prop hang it on the side with slow passes. I want to induce Lomcevak's and knife edge spins / flat spins high speed flat turns, crisp 4 point rolls, and something I experience with another design back in the 90's a high speed level horizontal end over end tumble into a cartwheel that at first glance has all observers thinking the plane just blew up or shed a wing it all happens very fast forward flying in a big blurry ball of shock.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skfprThzUq4

Pond Skipper

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I've never seen 1/2 A RC planes that could do the "Brute Force" type stunts. The smallest I've seen "do it all" was the Morris Hobbies .15 sized "Pen Knife" with a piped MVVS .21 and there was a "Profile Brotherhood" flyer with his own .074 powered design that he landed in the back of his truck and on picnic tables.
A lot of us here built a 1/2 A 3D plane that was designed by Jeremy Chinn.....but they ended up behind the power to weight curve some what. They were still excellent for their day.
I tried lighter variant designs but never got enough thrust until I moved up to the Norvel .074 / 7 x 3 or even 8 x 3 prop.
I always felt like a 7 x 2 prop was needed to get the most aerobatic capability from .049 to .061 but was never able to carve one that worked well. Perfectly locked in hovering is really difficult with a 6 inch prop [even with a 9 oz model] and moving up to the .074 with a 7 inch prop made that chore...much less of a chore.
It will be interesting to see what your's will do with the fast wing. With the addition of flaps you will have a lot of dynamics to explore and to play with.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Closest I've seen to that prop is the FF two blader by Mike Hazel, 6.4x2. I never got one to examine, I suspect it has pretty thin and narrow blades for running in the high 20's.

With APC you get yer basic 6x2 or 7x3. I wonder about heating and de-pitching a Cox 7x3.5, or de-pitching the APC by hand, I dunno. If there was a nice CF quadrotor prop in that size..

Pond Skipper

You guys are spot on, speed acro will help with some tricks but other will require what's in this posted pic.

Thin wood tornado 6 x 2 props and I have some in 7in if a last ditch effort for thrust is needed. I hope to be sub 11oz all up ready to fly.

Pond Skipper

I have had this kind of plane before with a 20 size and 40 size with stunt flaps. It is because of the light weight RC gear I have figured the door for 1/2A speed mixed with acro is very possible now. There is a APC prop made for FF thinner prop than most sport props of that size.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380896968863...#ht_2411wt_984

It may have some promise 5.5 x 2.5 that tad more pitch may keep me happy speed wise around 60-65 mph.
The Tarnado 6 x 2 is not going to let me fly very fast. 45 - 50 mph. But should / may have 2:1 thrust ratio.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

It ought to keep you busy with exploring all there is to explore. The first time I tried coupled flaps was on a .35 powered C/L Stunt plane. It was very smooth and stable in level flight, but super responsive when you cracked the whip. It had a very fat airfoil that helped keep the speed of the maneuvers down enough to help make the stunts more recognizable and the fat airfoil shades minor control surface movements to contribute to smoothness [according to the designer]. AMA rule book pull out height at the bottom of the maneuvers is 5 feet with those guys flying over asphalt with planes that have countless hours put into just their finishes.
Sounds like a great way to relax from a stressful week at work...?

Pond Skipper

Lol asphalt wont happen until the plane has been flown over grass for a while. I have found loops can be tighter fast or slow, flat spins can be flatter as the flaps help to cup air sorta like a parachute action. You can actually throttle up and climb straight up. Knife edge circles are tighter if desired. Very very sharp 90's can be had. Im not sure what all my current 6ch radio will allow but looks like I have some reading to do to set things up. I have checked into some threads looks like preset flap modes are available for landings and dual rates for when in stunt flap mode. At higher speeds flaps can cause the tail to kick up when tumbling. Its been awhile since I had a plane with flaps should be some fun. Stressssssss at work has given me many grey hairs these days! Tons of developers in the area all with bank money ready to start yet another commercial or subdivision project along with city and county obligations as a retained consultant its been crazy. 4 day weekend time to live a little.