Ply Rolled Fuselage Part Deux - 1/2A " Mini Skorch "
#376
Thread Starter
Yea need to start messing with my 4cyl engines I have the scout plane to do already bought the vintage wire wheels and the two large scale Aces of Iron pilots as shown in the previous posted drawings with a Saito 71 will make a great plane for grass field flying with enough weight and size to take off from grass with ease.
Also have a racer design not shown for the OS 26 Surpass.
Also have a racer design not shown for the OS 26 Surpass.
#382
Thread Starter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Shuriken...#ht_146wt_1125
Dont see the above much anymore
The plane layout common with the Utah group they run a 400 E class now
Big wing for min loss of speed in the turns and now more popular V tail
The design / or similar use to have Norvels on the long nose
Dont see the above much anymore
The plane layout common with the Utah group they run a 400 E class now
Big wing for min loss of speed in the turns and now more popular V tail
The design / or similar use to have Norvels on the long nose
#386
Thread Starter
http://www.utahpylonracing.com/home/the-models
Marty Hill sells kits (fuse, wing, tail feathers), wing cores, vacuum bagged wings and fuselages for his current model. He can be contacted at [email protected] for pricing and availability.
Marty Hill sells kits (fuse, wing, tail feathers), wing cores, vacuum bagged wings and fuselages for his current model. He can be contacted at [email protected] for pricing and availability.
#388
Thread Starter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wl7w3smOTS4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wl7w3smOTS4 I sent a request for Vixen wing pre bagged ready to use I would imagine about 50 - 70 bucks.
http://www.matneymodels.com/vixen.html
sells glass fuselages or simple wood framed to bagged wings. Kits from 100 to 150.00 with glass fuse and bagged wings
This pylon racer has some unique building features! The wing has a saddle that locates the wing on the fuse and it gets secured with tape. No more screws to mess with! The fuse also has a built in locator for the V tail. No more alignment issues to worry about. The other nice thing is that the motor mount not only comes with the kit, it comes installed. You can also get the fuselage in four dyed colors. Contact Kevin Matney to find out more at: [email protected]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wl7w3smOTS4 I sent a request for Vixen wing pre bagged ready to use I would imagine about 50 - 70 bucks.
http://www.matneymodels.com/vixen.html
sells glass fuselages or simple wood framed to bagged wings. Kits from 100 to 150.00 with glass fuse and bagged wings
This pylon racer has some unique building features! The wing has a saddle that locates the wing on the fuse and it gets secured with tape. No more screws to mess with! The fuse also has a built in locator for the V tail. No more alignment issues to worry about. The other nice thing is that the motor mount not only comes with the kit, it comes installed. You can also get the fuselage in four dyed colors. Contact Kevin Matney to find out more at: [email protected]
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-27-2015 at 07:19 PM.
#389
Thread Starter
I put a 4.5 x 4 on the engine tonight will try one more vid with the stock engine prior to going with a nelson head.
I have three of these props and 10 on order. Most online store are out and on back order so I called
530.661.0399 direct line to APC and bought from them should be here Sat. or Mon.
Leaned out further:
I have three of these props and 10 on order. Most online store are out and on back order so I called
530.661.0399 direct line to APC and bought from them should be here Sat. or Mon.
Leaned out further:
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-28-2015 at 06:08 PM.
#391
Thread Starter
They are flying on a grass farm. I see they have tried 300 Sq/In 15 size planes. Looks like perhaps 240 would be good for speed.
300 looked a tad slow with a 7 x 6 prop.
300 looked a tad slow with a 7 x 6 prop.
#392
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
300 sqs makes it more of a "Pilot's Event" and it deters "engine cheating" because the extra drag penalizes attempts to go faster than the guys who fly legit.
An arbitrary figure..? Maybe they tried a few sizes out before voting...?
I'm sure it's still plenty "sporty" to fly and to watch.
It's just as important to give the "also rans" a feeling like they have a shot, or else you find yourself racing all by yourself.
An arbitrary figure..? Maybe they tried a few sizes out before voting...?
I'm sure it's still plenty "sporty" to fly and to watch.
It's just as important to give the "also rans" a feeling like they have a shot, or else you find yourself racing all by yourself.
#393
Thread Starter
Yea just seems over kill in Sq. In. for striaght line passes but keeps the turns steady and plane manageable for everyone.
Most of the time we have wind here in Texas to deal will so landings are easy with low sq. wings so on that note I'm going with 180 sq. in. for a 10 to 15 size engine. Will allow me to enjoy and test the AP .09 / ASP .12 and TD.15 all three are close in weight as previously posted. Simple spruce reinforced 1/4" balsa planked wing. Fuselage is 25" if counting the elevator and engine shown 30" ish.
TD .15 unloaded with a 6P gets around 115 -125 mph will be a loud screamer and a shocker for onlookers if with a throttle sleeve. I have options up to the Mk II which should go 130+
Since the air frame is skinny I will go with a ply box frame with sq. stock turning it into a very strong lawn dart. 4oz round tank.
For the first time I want to use neon blue monokote, I know yellow and pink pop in the air so will use the color scheme in the pic.
Most of the time we have wind here in Texas to deal will so landings are easy with low sq. wings so on that note I'm going with 180 sq. in. for a 10 to 15 size engine. Will allow me to enjoy and test the AP .09 / ASP .12 and TD.15 all three are close in weight as previously posted. Simple spruce reinforced 1/4" balsa planked wing. Fuselage is 25" if counting the elevator and engine shown 30" ish.
TD .15 unloaded with a 6P gets around 115 -125 mph will be a loud screamer and a shocker for onlookers if with a throttle sleeve. I have options up to the Mk II which should go 130+
Since the air frame is skinny I will go with a ply box frame with sq. stock turning it into a very strong lawn dart. 4oz round tank.
For the first time I want to use neon blue monokote, I know yellow and pink pop in the air so will use the color scheme in the pic.
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-29-2015 at 08:08 AM.
#394
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
The plywood fuselage is nice because it saves interior space like fiberglass fuselages do.
The V-Tail needs space in the aft end for a lengthy control horn and for the torque rods to converge.
I ended up cutting "windows" in the sides of my 1/2A V-Tail plane's fuselage to make enough clearance for the linkage.
The V-Tail needs space in the aft end for a lengthy control horn and for the torque rods to converge.
I ended up cutting "windows" in the sides of my 1/2A V-Tail plane's fuselage to make enough clearance for the linkage.
#395
Thread Starter
I like this torque rod setup with ball sockets - there are some various sizes out there one should work great for the Slim V
When you have a moment if willing take a snap shot of your set up. Yessah ply helps keep things skinny and strong with
enough working space. For a slight weight penalty they can handle smacks straight into the ground.
When you have a moment if willing take a snap shot of your set up. Yessah ply helps keep things skinny and strong with
enough working space. For a slight weight penalty they can handle smacks straight into the ground.
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-29-2015 at 05:40 AM.
#397
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
My linkage is buried..! The next time it sees the light of day, will be a day of mourning.
My torque rods are longer and they meet together inside a single clevis, so the range of motion is restricted.
The torque rods are ground flat so that they can fit inside the same clevis. I used 1/16" music wire for the torque rods IIRC. They need to be weak enough to "give" with the single clevis...but strong enough not to flutter. The ends of the MW are annealed enough to allow them to be hammered flatter and then cross drilled for the clevis pin. It's tricky to get it just right. I had a few failed attempts before the assy was ready to be permanently buried out of sight.
I would rather go with the set up you show for future VTails.
My torque rods are longer and they meet together inside a single clevis, so the range of motion is restricted.
The torque rods are ground flat so that they can fit inside the same clevis. I used 1/16" music wire for the torque rods IIRC. They need to be weak enough to "give" with the single clevis...but strong enough not to flutter. The ends of the MW are annealed enough to allow them to be hammered flatter and then cross drilled for the clevis pin. It's tricky to get it just right. I had a few failed attempts before the assy was ready to be permanently buried out of sight.
I would rather go with the set up you show for future VTails.
#398
Thread Starter
I have thought about using a hammer and anvil to flatted the piano wire for both torque rods glad it worked out!
For repair efforts being able to pop off the ball sockets to glue back on a stab and rotate to adjust is a plus.
This weekend has been very windy here gusting to 27 mph but sunny and warm oh the torture!
For repair efforts being able to pop off the ball sockets to glue back on a stab and rotate to adjust is a plus.
This weekend has been very windy here gusting to 27 mph but sunny and warm oh the torture!
#399
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Music wire is probably not the best choice for hammer forming. I just guessed at how much to heat it. Without knowing any better, hammering it could be playing Russian Roulette. A Gun Smith would probably know.
MW takes silver solder really well, so joining metal ball sockets to it ought to be pretty simple.
I set my stab halves in a solid balsa V-Block and then join the V-Block to the fuselage after it has been all framed up. I learned that from assembling a Lanier ARF.
Now that I see how the linkage is done, I've got a couple of .40 sized "Quickees" that need to be finished.
MW takes silver solder really well, so joining metal ball sockets to it ought to be pretty simple.
I set my stab halves in a solid balsa V-Block and then join the V-Block to the fuselage after it has been all framed up. I learned that from assembling a Lanier ARF.
Now that I see how the linkage is done, I've got a couple of .40 sized "Quickees" that need to be finished.
#400
Thread Starter
Wow it went for 475
[TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 3"]New Shuriken .050 050 with extras Racing Free Flight Model Airplane Engine UC CL
See original listing
New Shuriken .050 050 with extras Racing Free Flight Model Airplane Engine UC CL[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][TABLE="class: img img140"]
[TR]
[TD][TABLE="width: 140"]
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[TD="align: center"] [/TD]
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Photos not available for this variation[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: vi-ht20"]
[TD]Item condition:
New
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: vi-ht20"]
[TD]Ended:
Mar 28, 2015 , 12:15PM
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Winning bid:
US $475.00
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 3"]New Shuriken .050 050 with extras Racing Free Flight Model Airplane Engine UC CL
See original listing
New Shuriken .050 050 with extras Racing Free Flight Model Airplane Engine UC CL[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][TABLE="class: img img140"]
[TR]
[TD][TABLE="width: 140"]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"] [/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Photos not available for this variation[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: vi-ht20"]
[TD]Item condition:
New
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: vi-ht20"]
[TD]Ended:
Mar 28, 2015 , 12:15PM
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Winning bid:
US $475.00
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]