MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Why would that make any difference? The + and - pins are on a common bus, whereas the signal line is unique to each channel and shares the -ve ground with B+. Which is why it is easy to provide dedicated power to servos if you want, just clip the red from the Rx and supply the dedicated DC to the red/black combo into the servo, the black is ground for the signal lead and the DC source.

Pond Skipper

My thought too seems like any open pin set should do. I think the Aux had some presets on it and so interferes when there is no servo signal.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

The solder bus could be cracked at the AUX jack...?
A look with a magnifying glass can really bring evil out of hiding.

Pond Skipper

Ok I did a little looking they are starting to change the wording on the RX from bind to batt perhaps there is a requirement to use that pin set. I would have to dig up my manual to confirm.


mine is on the left

Pond Skipper

Yes Chuck that could be the case too -

Ok manual calls it the (batt / bind port) but the rx says data / bind looks like Aux will just cause issues.
So it appears the old skool way of thinking doesn't apply here. Least I didn't have to stomp on my RX.


"Plug the bind plug into the receiver’s BATT/BIND port. In systems utilizing a separate battery pack and 3-wire switch, plug the bind plug into the charge jack".

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Maybe there is something different, but why would an Aux port be any different, just a numbered channel to me. Will be interesting to find out if there is a specific reason this is trouble.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

AR610: "The battery can be connected to any open
port except the Bind port." (otherwise it is tough to bind..)

AR6100/6115/others - say nothing about where the battery has to be connected, it just says "appropriate ports" and watch polarity. To me this is more indirect evidence that it doesn't matter.

The instructions for testing battery voltage also refer to any open port. I still say it is a common + and - bus, and where you power it doesn't matter.

Pond Skipper

Right to bind here was the instructions in my manual.

"Plug the bind plug into the receiver’s BATT/BIND port. In systems utilizing a separate battery pack and 3-wire switch, plug the bind plug into the charge jack".

Pond Skipper

On my RX the 5ch works with the landing gear switch and the Aux works with the flap switch you can use the mix function 1 and mix 2 to do flaps elevator, rudder ailerons that sort of thing. For some reason the RX will fire up ok in the Aux port but as soon as I throttle up the engine the whole thing sends every servo to one extreme direction. The manual wants you to park the battery in the batt port after you bind.

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

Bizarre - point is, whatever is happening is happening no doubt about it. Just doesn't smell right.

Pond Skipper

Whats really scary is not knowing for sure, I had to move things around to dig out the RX - could be a bad wire somewhere. If this happens in the air.... arrrrooooO

I will take the time to bench run the engine some more and see if it happens again, ran it last night so far so good will run it again tonight.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Take the whole works, tape it to an orbital sander and see what happens. Of course, I'm giving out advice that I've never tried myself.........

Pond Skipper

I will run the RX and TX batteries down during the process if there is a weak signal it may show will do the invert, side ways, point down, nose up trick along with tapping the fuselage.
If if doesn't happen anymore I will have to be a believer that the batt port is the happy port.

Will do a range check in the field with the plane held back at full throttle if all goes well I can finally vid with the pipe screaming.


edit ran it up again did not get a single hic up other than the engine being a snap snarling beast. 24,740 steady static.
Once the needle locks in the sweet spot it jumps on the pipe and gets thirsty drinking from a straw.
I did go too lean by mistake pushing the numbers / it just stops abruptly.
Should be interesting what needle setting works best in the air will need to be richer with the added rpm.
I hope the engine will avoid some in prompt to dead sticks.

Pond Skipper

Rain out Saturday and 40% on Sunday there may be a window but the field will be a mud pit, out of desperation to test the pipe I may go for one vid flight.
I need to monitor the hourly and the wind chart.

Meanwhile I was able to source a Norvel crank new in the package from VGE. I hope this is not a reproduction. I bought a Cos .09 high performance crank from them once at the fit was loose perhaps it was a refurbished part cleaned and polished. All the same the tolerance was out. This Norvel crank looks new threads clean the works no sign of being a refurbished part. It is well made if a reproduction and if so perhaps the steel is high grade.

So this leave me to going to task which is to modify with a oil groove to trap oil up front extending the crank case life and perhaps speed it up a hair bit.
I haven't decided yet may go with twin grooves equaling what would have been done if there was a single wide groove like a TD. The engine is mint in the box
.061 big mig revlite version. Sure would be nice to mill it down and fit a bearing up front but alas I don't have the tooling to do so.

Mr Cox

I don't think that you'll need any oil groove on them. But you need to check for enough clearance when new, some can be a little tight but it usually goes away during running in. You can also lap the case to the crank if you are more impatient. I haven't worn out any crankcases yet, unlike the AP wasp engines that come worn out from the factory...

Pond Skipper

Thats good news perhaps I will use this crank in the AP Wasp with a cut oil groove.

Kris have you seen this:

AP .061 Wasp on a Profi 1/2A tuned pipe with a Sportwerks header pipe.
Best noted peak 26.3k rpm / engine is new and has about 3oz of fuel ran thru it.
APC 4.2 x 4. Fuel 20% castor 25% nitro.
Spins a APC 4.5x4 at 23.47k

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_Kzb8MyNqU

Mr Cox

Yes, I have seen that, but it is a little hard for me to judge the performance on the tiny 4.2x4 prop...
It sure screams a lot, but even at around 26000rpm it is less than 90W of engine power? The Novels will deliver that type of power already around 20krpm, without a pipe and on more useful propsizes.

Do you have any figures on the APC 4.7x4 for instance?
Also, numbers with and without the pipe is the only way to tell if the pipe does anything good or just acts a low resistance muffler.

The AP engine is just a poor copy of the Norvel, in my experience, your Big Mig should do much better.
22-23krpm on the APC 4.7x4 and stock muffler, is what I have in my notes.

Pond Skipper

Static with pipe:
APC 4.2x4 / 26.3k
APC 4.5x4 / 23.47k


Yea the AP new in the box was bought as they are cheap and you can rotate the carbs around.
I did source a Big Mig .061 as that version has a removable carb I can flip it around for the throttle arm to be on the correct side to use with the Skorch. It hasnt been ran up yet but I would imagine another 1k + static over the AP numbers above with a pipe. I plan to fly with the 4.5x4 as the plane will hang on the prop with a bit of throttle to spare with the modified TD

Here are all the numbers used with the plane thus far:

Collecting In Flight Engine Data:

The Killer TD .049 - Cox RC carb
Breaking in the engine in the airKB Galbreath / Nelson plug
#1 cylinder 2 bypass ports 1 boost flute per port
2nd flight APC 4.5 x 4
22,044 rpm in the hand 25% nitro
best pass at 24,160 rpm needle is set bit rich. 67 F. winds 6 to 9 mph

Killer TD .049 3rd flight
APC 4.75 x 4
20,873 rpm in the hand 25% nitro
22,287 rpm cross wind and 23.94k down wind
9 to 12 mph winds - temp 78 F Humidity 80%

Stock TD .049 - Cox RC carb - Cox High Comp plug
APC 4.75 x 4 (no data with the 4.5 x 4)
19,380 rpm in the hand 25% nitro
21.4k rpm cross wind 23.3k down wind.
Winds about 4 to 6 mph per hourly weather check. 74 F


TD .050 #5 cylinder- high compression head 1 shim - 1st flight test
performance crank non SPI - 140 deg exhaust timing25% nitro 78 F
Tarno carb - APC 4.5 x 4
In the hand 21,237
unloaded 23,771 best pass / 90 mph theoreticalIn a down wind high dive 24,9K
Bench Tests

Profi Tuned Pipe TD RC .050 non SPI - 1st bench test
Tarno Carb, Cox buggy header pipe with half moon 3/4th around brass shim to block 1 exhaust port
#5 cylinder 2 bypass ports and 2 boost flutes per port -1 shim HC Cox Plug - KK pressure tap
- Idle with Tarno carb 11.786 rpm APC 4.5 x 4
- vid recorded 20,996 rpm on the pipe best noted 21,370 rpm 25% nitro


AP .061 Profi pipe with Sportwerks Header pipe
Static 25% nitro:
APC 4.2x4 / 25.63k
APC 4.5x4 / 23.47k

MJD

My Feedback: (1)

AME RC, muffled, 4.2x4 APC, 15% - 25.5k static on early runs. That's the only slightly relevant data point I have. Similar performance to VA MkII.

aspeed

Doesn't NV carry spare parts for the Norvels? I had good luck soldering the bearing on a T Tiger .07. They come with too much clearance from the factory. I just put a ring of solder on the front and back one at a time, and pushed the crank through. It gave an ok clearance to start lapping from. I am sure it will not last too long, but who knows? Model Ts used the babbit, and they are still running today.

Pond Skipper

Yes your right Alan Norvel does still have parts and their crank is 24.99 I found the one on ebay for 12.95 /2.95 shipping.

Mike - at 15% nitro that amount is reasonable on the plugs - I have had quite a few runs now with 25% no sign of wear on the element.
The AP seems like a great little engine other than I do not like the carb assembly it leaks at the NV (no O ring) and the barrel is a bit loose in the carb body.
Did the fuel tube fix so It does work but I think there is losses. Once you lock in the needle setting it jumps on the pipe just fine but there is a slight smooth
out duration as the carb settles in. I have three Norvels so if it fits will rob a NV and barrel to use with the AP to improve fit.

Well its been thundering rain and dark skies here with winds up to 21 mph as of 11am the rest of the day it picks up 53% precipitation arrooooO

Pond Skipper

8yrs in the making


Flite Test | The Valkyrie - Joe Nall Project Build

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmGNIRh-HE0

Pond Skipper

The Pocket Radar Ball Coach radar small can be placed in front of a head mounted video camera.

Accuracy: +/- 1 MPH (+/- 2 KPH)

Measures from: 25 to 130 MPH (40 to 209 KPH)

Size: 4.7 inches (H) x 2.3 inches (W) x 0.8 inches (D)

Weight: 4.5 ounces with two AAA batteries

Recall Memory: previous 25 speed readings

Seen them as cheap as 195 on ebay so far...

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

That is such a work of art..!
I've seen similar projects [in magnitude] done entirely with popsickle sticks.
Too bad about the rain spoiling your weekend. At least you are all geared up for the next opportunity to get out there and do it.

Pond Skipper

Thank you Chuck all things charged up, tools, props all ready to go we are expecting sunshine over this weekend wheeew..

Yea thought this video was well worth sharing the birds eye view with the quad made this truly a special moment for the builders and craft.
How about those solid steel wheels 6lbs per!