ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Ok, there's already plans for a 1/2a ugly stick out there. But I had a little spare time the past couple days and the idea for using the ACE foam wings for a quick-build feature. Check this out and tell me what yall think.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I like the proportions! I see 2 things that I would change. The inboard cut for the ailerons is too close to the fuselage, looks like they would be hitting tthe fuselage. The trailing edge I would make out of a solid hunk of balsa and notch it to allow the end of the ribs to sink into. Looks like you plan on T.E. sheeting that is inlaid. Since it is semisymetrical, I like a solid T.E. that is jacked up on the building board to the zero=zero line of the wing, so between the bottom spar and the situated T.E., that is all the jigging you need. A small batch of these guys could be whipped out, covered with cellophane and ready for battle in no time. Any survivors could be sent over to the pylon course, and any survivors of racing could then take part in a little game of follow the leader and balloon bust. Howz THAT sound for a 1/2A FUN FLY agenda?

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

All right, gave the ailerons 3/16 clearance from the fuse and added 1/8 clearance on the outside. (we both missed that one!) I think your talking about tabs on the TE of the rib. I'll add some and post the update.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Here's the update. Anything else? Give it a critical eye!

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

BTW, the Ace foam wings are available from Ehobbies.com. The run 6.99 for a set and are called Thunder Tiger Ace R/C foam wings. Here's a link to the constant chord-

http://store.yahoo.com/ehobbies-com/rc-ttr-as6074.html

Dukester

My Feedback: (31)

So when do we get a chance at building this? I fly off of pavement, so only thing I have to add is I usually put two little skids up under the front end to protect the bottom corner of the fuse.

Duke

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I gave it a good look and it looks pretty good. The real proof is when you go to build it, or better yet have someone else build it. I think this one looks like a lot of fun!

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Here's a [link=http://www.ulmer-rc.com/DasNotUgly.zip]DXF. (<- click here)[/link] If you plan on using the Ace foam wing, follow the instructions that come with the wings except use 1/4x1" aileron or TE stock. I may have to knock one of these out soon. The question is... do I give the foam wings I borrowed back, or lie and say I lost'em!

BMatthews

Looks pretty good. A couple of things though.

The ailerons are big enough for racing but won't do much for general tossing around, especially when you're in a slower speed vertical component to some maneuvers. I'd bump up the aileron width to one inch and limit the throw for racing and bump it up for general hacking around.

You've selected a nice flat or near flat rear lower section semi symetrical section. So why not go to true flat, if it's not already and build it with the lower rear of the ribs and the trailing edge flat on the board and drop the tabs? It'll make cutting out the ribs a lot easier, aligning the trailing edge easier and let you build virtually the whole wing in one go before lifting it up.

And one last thing. Since the wing won't have any dihedral I'd suggest redoing the rib spacing so the center rib is gone but is replaced by two ribs that are spaced the same as the fuselage width with the sheeting between those two ribs and extended past about 1/4 inch. Then space the outer panel ribs to fill in evenly on either side. That'll save you quite a few sq inches of 1/16 sheeting out past the fuselage and be a little lighter. A setup like this is then a natural for using two 8-32 nylon screws at the spar to rib intersections and down to thick wing saddle blocks on the fuselage sides to hold the wings on. No need for a cross piece with that method.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I second the motion on the aileron chord, especially when using torque rods. But I dont like the idea of the flat airfoil for this plane because I would want the end result to be a plane that rolls like a drill bit. I guess if you follow that line of thinking you might ask why not go full symetrical, but this airfoil that Patrick is using looks like a good all around performer. The little bit of extra time it takes to cut these ribs out will reward you with a better stunt plane. I like to go with flat bottom airfoils for combat plane mass production for other reasons.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I think RCM has a 1/2A ugly stick already, and I will bet it is much chunkier than this one. They should go through alot of that old dead wood and update some of it.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

I'm kinda stuck with the NACA 2415, so the ACE wings will work as a quick-build option. I'm a little confused, the ailerons are the same size as what the ACE wings would use. I've seen them on a Pacer. It wouldn't roll like a delta, but it was ok. I've never used ailerons that small (in chord) before. Should I remove the drawings and build it first?

Center rib- I like your idea Bruce. But how would I handle the dowel? The center rib has the dowel slot and two half ribs glued up. If I remove the center rib.... what to do with the dowel?

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

I dont see the specs, but with the built wing in the drawing ,,it looks like Fireman's baby stik that he flew at the fun fly......I think his was a 35"ws and BobHH is going to kit it I believe...but he did have a norvel .074 in it and it was a flat airfoil with small ailerons...Rog

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Rog, the span is 30.5" with 182 squares. 23" from firewall to the end of the vert. (rudder is optional)

Andrew

Good memory -- came out in '75; was called the Half-A-Stick and used the ACE wing, 35" span and about 200 sq. in. area.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

I doubt very much that I could do something that hasn't been done before. Now's your chance to get it free and to have input on the design. I'm going to change the wing hold down method like Bruce stated.... if I can figure something out. I do expect it to be smaller and lighter than the RCM version and to have better moments than the LS150. All-in-all it should be an improvement over the others. Not yanking my own chain. Bipe helped out with the ACE wing design and I worked empirically from the LS150 and the original Das Ugly Stick.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

The short chord ailerons work, but those models seem kind of "flitty" when you see them fly, and more aileron chord might just might have smoothed them out. Of course some of the examples that I've seen came out pretty heavy which also contributes to a plane that looks like it's struggling. For the wing centering dowel, I'm in the habit of filling the area between the L.E. and spars with solid balsa, and using a foot long 1/8" drill bit from the front of the model to drill through the former that receives the dowel and the wing itself in one shot. The problem I have with the ACE wings, is they are pretty heavy, and by the time you have reenforced them, they must easily be a couple of ozs more than a balsa wing, so even though the ACE wing is an option, it is a sleezy option that the self respecting 1/2Aers we have here would be far too proud to accept.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

If it makes you feel better, the foam wings would need 7 inches cut off. (3.5 per side)

I need to mod the plans again and show where the dowel hole is in the former. That's usually how I handle that. Without that, your method is about the only way to do it.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Looks like I need to knock one out this weekend just to check it out. I've got a blackwidow that PIGPEN fixed up for me.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

[X(]You mean the one with SUP technology? That one revs so high the neighbors complain that it knocks their TV set reception out. The shockwaves makes fish swim backwards and humming birds faint.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

To tell the truth... he had to tell me it had a TD cylinder. I didn't even look at them before they got anodized. They were pickups from the Perry,GA swap meet. Black and red spiderwebs on the tank and crankcase look pretty bad***. Should get an extra 2-3k rpm from the anodize job though. Right? Well, at least they'll match the color scheme for a stick w/iron crosses.

Oh! You were thinking of the DEVIL ENGINE! It's almost ready for the weekend.(the airplane, that is) There's been a guy there saying I need an airplane with a "real" engine. You think that one will convince him?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Too bad we never get input from any guys who have experience with competitive mouse racing. Bill R. has talked about having competed, but hasn't chimed in with any hard fast, "We did this, this, and that type stuff" to get them to go. I don't think we are far off with the current crop of rpm getters though. I guess the way to go in depth is to hang out more at the RCU engine guru forum, and over at DELPHI. Delphi is kind of like having a conversation at the old folks home, you pose a question and then wait a day and a half for a real detailed answer. One thing that stands out in my memory banks about AMA mouse racers is that these guys spent more time working over props than anything else.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

I've updated the file a little. Mainly, it's got the Iron Cross templates needed for the covering.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I'll go have a look. I sure do like to see those "surfer crosses" in a blurry furball of streamer nipping fun! How did they become known as surfer crosses? Maybe it was just a local term?

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Never heard of "surfer crosses". I always expect to see them on motorcycles. What kind of streamer would work? That's partly why I wanted to use the ACE wings for a quick build and toughness. Maybe if I fly it around with a streamer attached, someone will try to cut it?