How Fast Dat Blink Be...?
#127
The hole is about 7/8" as it sits.
I "piloted" the hole with a 3/4" forstner bit, then took a cone shaped tool with 80 grit paper glued to it and opened the hole up to about 7/8".
I planned on a 1" hole up front.
2 more smaller holes need to be punched yet for needle valve access.
I "piloted" the hole with a 3/4" forstner bit, then took a cone shaped tool with 80 grit paper glued to it and opened the hole up to about 7/8".
I planned on a 1" hole up front.
2 more smaller holes need to be punched yet for needle valve access.
#129
I'll just use the stock Cyclon spinner nut [as usual] and let air enter the cowl via the extra large opening behind the prop.
If the model ends up tail heavy, then I'd look into adapting a G&Z spinner...[but those spinners are very light, so not much of a CG correction].
If the model ends up tail heavy, then I'd look into adapting a G&Z spinner...[but those spinners are very light, so not much of a CG correction].
#131
For a brick wall pattern you could have the vinyl rap guys do the graphic's. 9oz seems reasonable the engine wont have any trouble motivating once covered and fueled up.
The integrated fuselage looks like it will add some good yaw stability!!!
The integrated fuselage looks like it will add some good yaw stability!!!
#132
i was having trouble getting the covering to stick to the FG fin and fuselage so I dabbed some Weldwood contact cement and it did a nice job of sealing those surfaces
The model weighs 10.2 ozs now, up from 9.0
I didn't even bother to fill pin holes or prime the cowl, it just got 2 thin coats of black epoxy paint.
Gotta do a CG check, rinse out the engine and get the controls as "dead on" as possible before scampering to the field with it.
The model weighs 10.2 ozs now, up from 9.0
I didn't even bother to fill pin holes or prime the cowl, it just got 2 thin coats of black epoxy paint.
Gotta do a CG check, rinse out the engine and get the controls as "dead on" as possible before scampering to the field with it.
#134
It's Monokote's cheaper cousin...Towerkote.
I think it looks like something Bart Simpson cooked up.
t's Monokote's cheaper cousin...Towerkote.
I think it looks like something Bart Simpson cooked up.
The Weldwood worked just as good if not better than Balsarite ever did for me and it saved a 1 hour round trip to the LHS. Any place there was Spackle or Bondo residue, the covering just refused to stick. I had just very few bubbles to pop.
The model isn't truly RTF until I tape over all the lightning bolts. This design will peel even easier than flames with so many edges facing into the wind. I just consider pre-emptive clear taping an ugly fact of 1/2 A life.
I think it looks like something Bart Simpson cooked up.
t's Monokote's cheaper cousin...Towerkote.
I think it looks like something Bart Simpson cooked up.
The Weldwood worked just as good if not better than Balsarite ever did for me and it saved a 1 hour round trip to the LHS. Any place there was Spackle or Bondo residue, the covering just refused to stick. I had just very few bubbles to pop.
The model isn't truly RTF until I tape over all the lightning bolts. This design will peel even easier than flames with so many edges facing into the wind. I just consider pre-emptive clear taping an ugly fact of 1/2 A life.
Last edited by combatpigg; 02-17-2015 at 08:26 PM.
#136
It's been quite a while since I've seen Moosehead on the shelves. RiteAid might have it. The last Canadian beer I've bought would probably be Kokanee, which is a nice clean AAL.
This plane was covered with the help of New Belgium's assorted 12 pack.
Ranger IPA...very good.
Rampant [Imp IPA]...very good
2 Below [a winter warmer ale]...I really like
Abbey [a Belgian dubbel ale]..like liquid candy.
Flat Tire ale....I drink it because it's there.
This plane was covered with the help of New Belgium's assorted 12 pack.
Ranger IPA...very good.
Rampant [Imp IPA]...very good
2 Below [a winter warmer ale]...I really like
Abbey [a Belgian dubbel ale]..like liquid candy.
Flat Tire ale....I drink it because it's there.
#139
http://youtu.be/K7iYy-WE5Kg
Sorry about the video quality...we are still experiencing technical difficulties.
I'm also waiting for Pond Skipper's review of his new camera, [before I take the plunge].
It was too breezy to evaluate today's circular routes.
The plane appears to need lateral balancing and checked for straightness on the work table.
It also hit a nasty, gooey mole hill on that first landing so it has a snoot full of crud packed into the cowl.
Judging by the sound of the engine, the cowl doesn't need an extra hole for the intake.
I'm also waiting for Pond Skipper's review of his new camera, [before I take the plunge].
It was too breezy to evaluate today's circular routes.
The plane appears to need lateral balancing and checked for straightness on the work table.
It also hit a nasty, gooey mole hill on that first landing so it has a snoot full of crud packed into the cowl.
Judging by the sound of the engine, the cowl doesn't need an extra hole for the intake.
#141
LOL....what can I say...?
You know I'd be lying if I told you I planned it that way....!
The "Little Guy" wanted to do a Victory Roll before it did it's first lap and I didn't have time to argue.
After the landing, I wasn't sure what I just saw, honestly.
It didn't seem exceptionally fast, but it'll be fun once it's dialed in. The engine could not have sounded better. I think that glow plug dates back to 2013..? It's happy with 10% nitro and fresh bladders every outing.
I took the backplate and head off today to flush out the cooties and took a photo of the crankshaft's "fish mouth" opening in the flywheel. The tunnel through the shaft appears to take a path that is not alligned parallel with the shaft. It appears to be tilted, but I might be "seeing things" I estimate the inner diameter to be 1/4", so it's relatively huge for 1 cc engine..Oh...the Jeep's new floor with the seam sealer drying and hopefully painted tomorrow.
Amazing how thin the metal was, but this is a pretty light car [for a 4WD]. It has 190 HP but it feels like a lot more.
BTW..get a load of the UFO that swoops into the picture right after launch. Was it was a raven that decided to abort it's attack...?
I've seen this before at launch, especially with the 1/2A planes.
You know I'd be lying if I told you I planned it that way....!
The "Little Guy" wanted to do a Victory Roll before it did it's first lap and I didn't have time to argue.
After the landing, I wasn't sure what I just saw, honestly.
It didn't seem exceptionally fast, but it'll be fun once it's dialed in. The engine could not have sounded better. I think that glow plug dates back to 2013..? It's happy with 10% nitro and fresh bladders every outing.
I took the backplate and head off today to flush out the cooties and took a photo of the crankshaft's "fish mouth" opening in the flywheel. The tunnel through the shaft appears to take a path that is not alligned parallel with the shaft. It appears to be tilted, but I might be "seeing things" I estimate the inner diameter to be 1/4", so it's relatively huge for 1 cc engine..Oh...the Jeep's new floor with the seam sealer drying and hopefully painted tomorrow.
Amazing how thin the metal was, but this is a pretty light car [for a 4WD]. It has 190 HP but it feels like a lot more.
BTW..get a load of the UFO that swoops into the picture right after launch. Was it was a raven that decided to abort it's attack...?
I've seen this before at launch, especially with the 1/2A planes.
Last edited by combatpigg; 02-28-2015 at 10:00 PM.
#142
What prop was that a 4.2 x 4?
29.3 to 29.8k that engine ran flat out to the end nice n steady unlike the delta wild ride that has a great glide ratio!
Congrats on saving the blurrr on launch whew!
Yesssa, you need a new cam for sure some good quality footage of your creations is a must for enjoyable reflection time.
29.3 to 29.8k that engine ran flat out to the end nice n steady unlike the delta wild ride that has a great glide ratio!
Congrats on saving the blurrr on launch whew!
Yesssa, you need a new cam for sure some good quality footage of your creations is a must for enjoyable reflection time.
#143
Yep...it WAS a 4.2 x 4.
The elevator control ran out about .01 seconds before touch down..so it's probably a tad bit nose heavy..or just a tad heavy..period.
If you get the CG just right, you can save a lot of props. The other Blink is very easy on props at 7 ozs.
Too bad this cam is toast, but it's taken some pretty bad drops. The chin strap came loose during today's flight, due to so much tension / torque that the heavy cam exerts.
What I do not want with the new cam is a curved / arched horizon. I don't want that distortion, even though it's in the peripheral view.
I wonder if that's just the way it is with these bite sized cameras...?
The elevator control ran out about .01 seconds before touch down..so it's probably a tad bit nose heavy..or just a tad heavy..period.
If you get the CG just right, you can save a lot of props. The other Blink is very easy on props at 7 ozs.
Too bad this cam is toast, but it's taken some pretty bad drops. The chin strap came loose during today's flight, due to so much tension / torque that the heavy cam exerts.
What I do not want with the new cam is a curved / arched horizon. I don't want that distortion, even though it's in the peripheral view.
I wonder if that's just the way it is with these bite sized cameras...?
Last edited by combatpigg; 02-28-2015 at 10:58 PM.
#144
Well sports cams are all about capturing the subject on the run key things to look for is mega pixels the more the better. My current cam is 120 deg view, no zoom you can see the amount of fish eye that one puts out.
The one I just bought is 150 deg of view however when using the zoom ( I look forward to trying 2x) the field of view should be reduced when I get the manuel I may have some more answers right off. It was bought in the good ol USA so should have it next week.
The one I just bought is 150 deg of view however when using the zoom ( I look forward to trying 2x) the field of view should be reduced when I get the manuel I may have some more answers right off. It was bought in the good ol USA so should have it next week.
#146
I think it's going to take a twenty five cent piece to balance the wing. If the wing tip was thicker I could simply push a length of lead into a pilot hole.
If this plane was to balance "naturally" with no ballast, the starboard panel would probably need to be 1 inch longer than the port side. Then there would have been an aerodynamic imbalance, so you can see the conundrum.
I waveoscoped one of the loops at 20 seconds and came up with 109 mph, so our measuring sticks are pretty close to each other.
This is what started out as a 1/2 inch thick slab wing, but I figured since it tapered to almost nothing at the tips it would be as fast as any of the 1/4" thick SWRs.
If this plane was to balance "naturally" with no ballast, the starboard panel would probably need to be 1 inch longer than the port side. Then there would have been an aerodynamic imbalance, so you can see the conundrum.
I waveoscoped one of the loops at 20 seconds and came up with 109 mph, so our measuring sticks are pretty close to each other.
This is what started out as a 1/2 inch thick slab wing, but I figured since it tapered to almost nothing at the tips it would be as fast as any of the 1/4" thick SWRs.
#147
As I recall you have no right thrust so it torqued off to the left right on launch if the port side er left wing was a tad longer it would help offset the torque, however your starboard wing by way of the weight of the gear has the right wing tipping off the balance - can you move the battery and RX to the left side within the center body any?
Good to hear you took a reading I found the best rpm through out the vid and then crunched the number with my pitch speed calculator. I watch the vid again with my app at around the same 20 sec range to compare again I was getting 29.37k given the rpm the prop pitch is flatting out some if pitch is 3.876 / 109 mph. otherwise my tools have you at 111 mph
So these methods with the wave scope and app is close enough for spot checking performance. I really really need to get my radar gun to the field with an operator to compare shout out readings during a run while video recording to compare with the rpm app and prop pitch calc data for further comparison.
Good to hear you took a reading I found the best rpm through out the vid and then crunched the number with my pitch speed calculator. I watch the vid again with my app at around the same 20 sec range to compare again I was getting 29.37k given the rpm the prop pitch is flatting out some if pitch is 3.876 / 109 mph. otherwise my tools have you at 111 mph
So these methods with the wave scope and app is close enough for spot checking performance. I really really need to get my radar gun to the field with an operator to compare shout out readings during a run while video recording to compare with the rpm app and prop pitch calc data for further comparison.
#148
None of my speed models use offset thrust.
Once I balance this plane laterally, it'll still have a momentary torque reaction when it's released, but that goes away within a split second once the model starts flying.
What will surprise you [if you've never tried it] is to set up an old fashion 2 man speed trap.
What works best for me is to station the time piece operator in a lawn chair, behind a car that has a raised hatch back, or a stake in the ground nearby. Have him line up so that his reference point in the foreground [edge of the hatchback or a stake] is alligned with an object in the background. This becomes his imaginary finish line to stop the clock at.
At the start line X amount of feet from the finish line I fly the plane up to my imaginary starting line as I give my timer a countdown to start the clock. I've done dozens of sessions like this and the results have been amazingly consistent with 150 mph planes. Consistent to the hundreth of a second in many cases.
This is the general method that was used at the earliest European Speed Cups before they got more sophisticated.
Once I balance this plane laterally, it'll still have a momentary torque reaction when it's released, but that goes away within a split second once the model starts flying.
What will surprise you [if you've never tried it] is to set up an old fashion 2 man speed trap.
What works best for me is to station the time piece operator in a lawn chair, behind a car that has a raised hatch back, or a stake in the ground nearby. Have him line up so that his reference point in the foreground [edge of the hatchback or a stake] is alligned with an object in the background. This becomes his imaginary finish line to stop the clock at.
At the start line X amount of feet from the finish line I fly the plane up to my imaginary starting line as I give my timer a countdown to start the clock. I've done dozens of sessions like this and the results have been amazingly consistent with 150 mph planes. Consistent to the hundreth of a second in many cases.
This is the general method that was used at the earliest European Speed Cups before they got more sophisticated.
#150
Yes, it was sold by Winged Shadow Systems and it was called the "HOW FAST?"
It worked very well, except the aluminum sampling tubes were prone to snagging and breaking during belly landings. I would splice them back together with fuel tubing.
What's funny is I couldn't tell you which plane is the last one to use it. It'll take me an hour to search for it probably.
They stopped making these because of a lack of demand.
Eagle Tree is another onboard data logger, but much more $...but it does more, too.
It worked very well, except the aluminum sampling tubes were prone to snagging and breaking during belly landings. I would splice them back together with fuel tubing.
What's funny is I couldn't tell you which plane is the last one to use it. It'll take me an hour to search for it probably.
They stopped making these because of a lack of demand.
Eagle Tree is another onboard data logger, but much more $...but it does more, too.