raycamel

Hello! I was wanting to build up a bunch of classic 1/2a birds, and though I would share my builds with all the peeps on the net.
First one is the Q-Tee, slightly modified from plans, stick built rear fuse, lightened as much as possible, also extended front nose 1/2inch for more balancing leeway, will have Monokote (tape) hinges or possibly stiched hinges.

raycamel

some more pics

ZoomZoom-RCU

Nice.

ZZ.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for sharing..!
This is the design I would go with if I was marooned on a desert island with a perfectly good engine and propellor to escape with.

A. J. Clark

Looks good.

Have you ever used the mylar hinges. That's what I like to use on the smaller models. I cut them down to 3/8 in. wide.

raycamel

TY for the compliments!
I have never tried Mylar hinges, I am unfamiliar with them, I will look them up and check them out.
Some pics of progress, my wood arrived for my wings, I laid out and checked to make sure I have correct bits,
covered the tail feathers with doculam, made controls horns, started covering fuse, figure I should really install pushrod guide tubes before I cover entire fuse, push rod tube guides installed, plastic coffee stir sticks used, I apologize for the smudgy pics, didn't realize I left thumb print on camera lens, I cleaned for last pic. Tomorrow is work all day, electrical(crafting and installing custom harness for vintage custom BMW motorcycle) but prob will get some more done on the build late night style.

A. J. Clark

The proper term for the hinge is (ca hinge).

Pond Skipper

Thin Mylar plastic sheet hidge sometimes come with a fuzzy layer of material so the CA wicks into the fuzz after install known as CA hinges. Some Mylar has holes for the CA to fill into for grip rather than the fuzz.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I first got introduced to RC by a pair of guys who flew Q-Tees for RC Combat. I was handed the radio with a TD running full blast [already flying] and was able to keep the radio for almost 2 full seconds before handing it back.
This planted the seed to not only give RC a try, but also RC Combat someday.
These guys could build a QT fuselage from scrap sticks in the junk pile and keep the wings flying with field repairs. They could put on quite a show of "Low and Slow" dog fighting that only took up as much space as a baseball infield. My first Q Tee lead a charmed life, it was even found laying in the woods by our LHS owner after my sister flew it out of range one day.

tewitt1949

I love Q-Tee's. I've been flying them since the mid 80's and I still have at least 4 of them and I have one I fly every time I go to the field. I hate to admit it but I have modified the fuse somewhat because I've converted it to Ele____c. I do have one with a norvel .74 and it does fly good, but the elect one (I hate to admit) flies much better and unlimited vertical, yet lite enough to fly super slow. Its such a gentle relaxing flier. I do have another one that I made a fully symmetrical wing with alierons. It is fun to fly but is a little more white knuckle than the flat bottom wing. You have to keep it in the air, where the other one will fly itself. The only reason I have some electrics is the lack or small nitro engines.
I'll always have Q-tee's in my hanger.

There are at least 7-8 guys in our club with Q-tee's. All love them.

raycamel

Stayed up late working on the Q-Tee,
hinged elevator and rudder, glued to airframe,
wing parts layout, tail feathers and control horns up close, (with my dog Chili in the background),
wing pinned and glued, wing sheeting added, setup for aileron servo,
aileron control linkages crafted, linkages installed with carved aileron stock glued on wing,
fuzzy shot with wings on fuse, wings and ailerons completed, ready for covering,
front and side glamour shots
I think I reversed order of photos.........

fizzwater2

My Feedback: (61)

thanks for sharing the pictures! I might have missed it - but what are your rudder & elevator control horns made of?

tewitt1949

As mentioned earlier I have several Q-Tees now and over the years I've probably built a least a couple dozen. I'm no expert and I don't mean to sound like it but I like to experment to improve someone elses ideas . I have to admit most of the time I will make it worse and they fly like crap. I've made flat bottom wings and changed the dihedral amounts. I've put ailerons on. I built symetrical wings, no dihedral, with dihedral, wider wings, longer wings and numerous other ideas. I probably have a doz wings laying around that didn't work real good. They all flew but not as fun as the unmodified. Except for a couple small changes.

The biggest thing and all our club members agree is we put stall tips on the wing. If I did it correct, I've attached pictures of them. We leave the wing flat bottom and only about 1/2 the dihedral as the plans call for. The stall tips make it fly a lot easier/stable and slower with out stalling.

The fuse if using electric we narrow it up only big enough to fit the electric stuff in and make it about 2 inches longer in the front for CG, shorten later as necessary. We also only have the wing about 1 inch above the fuse also (lower the cabaines).

These mods have worked good for us, I'm just passing on what we found. my 2 cents

raycamel

Hello! Fizz - My rudder horns are 1/8th aircraft ply painted with black marker
Tewitt - Thank you for the input! I think I will install some stall tips on mine, I wasn't liking the look of blank square wing ends.
I did add 1//2 in to fuse front, and lightened up rear fuse, my wings have no dihedral (my twin brother begged me for a non trainer trainer)
I might cut a set of semi - symmetrical foam wings to give them a try.

raycamel

found some time to install the stall tips, started covering, couldn't find the heat gun, but I will tomorrow, and i'll shrink it and posts pics.
I was going to cover it in one piece of covering, but I goofed on the starting side, so I used 2 pieces

tewitt1949

Ray......Looking good. Is the covering your using doc-u-laminate? I've used it for years and I like it. Only problem I've had is finding (and I've tryed different brands an types) is getting paint to stick to it. I mean the paint don't just fall off, but it scuffs off pretty easy and then looks like crap. I've wondered if buying the matte doc-u-lam, since the surface is frosted, paint might stick better. I get mine here. http://www.oregonlam.com/Laminating_...e.html#318250m.

It looks like my stall tips bigger than yours, no big deal they will probably work good. Its hard to tell from the photos. Mine are about 2 inches by 6 inches.

The guys in our club will challange each other to do stupid stuff with our q-tees. Everyone likes them because if you screw up and they hit the ground, more than likely just strap the wing back on and fly it, replacing the prop at most. Mine flies so good and stable, I will challenge everyone to get your plane trimmed, and land it. Then set the throttle where you want it, set the radio on the bench, walk out on the field and give the plane a toss. Last one to grab the radio wins. I quit often will go 1-2 mins. As you can tell, we get bored but have a lot of fun.

raycamel

my tips are about 1.3 wide, I put them on at a 40 degree angle, and carved them to shape.
yes the covering I use is doculam from laminatorwarehouse.com , they have a bargin/wrong order bin, you can get odd single rolls for cheap.

tewitt1949

I just got an email from the doc-u-laninate place and they said the laminating material is pollyester and paint don't stick very well to either clear or the matte material.

tewitt1949

This is one my best flyers right now. It has seen a lot of abuse and its starting to show it. But you can see the way .

modified the fuse. Making it boxie, it becomes super strong and builds quick. 1/16" balsa sides. About 2" to 2 1/2" inches longer in the front over what the plans call for. No landing gear either. Just belly it in.

raycamel

Hey Gang!
Found some time to work on my aircraft, took some pics:
Found heat gun, finished wing, installed servos in wing and fuse, soldered up motor & speed control connections (went lectric on this one), weighed it, 290 grams, (no battery, rubber bands or receiver, or hatch), glamour shots, it's done except for front hatch, building the front hatch, shot of the front hatch, the first one I made was flimsy, and broke, so I sacrificed a few grams to make a stout one, hatch fitment, hatch underside, I still have to sheet it, but that's next build session, fuse setup pic.
Hopefully my brother will maiden this weekend, but only if it's not crazy windy.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Nice and tidy...!
The doculam looks as tight as a drum.

raycamel

Thanks CPigg!
Pretty much finished it up, sheeted hatch, covered it, took a few glamour shots on the other side of shop with better lighting. Sunday forecast is decent weather, will try to maiden it and report back with vid.

raycamel

Saw a thread years ago about this cool little plane, and though one day I have to build it, well, that day has come......
I will do my thing on it and lighten it up, this one is kinda heavy built, I will also add ailerons, but leave in some dihedral. Wings will get modernized spar style, hardwood squares top & bottom, sheeted cross grain I-beam style.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

That's a very cool looking project that I recall seeing in the plans catalog.
One thing I'll say about plans of this vintage is they feature the short control horns that I think contribute to the notion that 1/2A models are too twitchy.
Now this one could be a candidate for stained wood under Doculam...?

raycamel

I was totally thinking the same thing, staining the wood underneath before I cover with doculam, have any ideas how too?