Quickie 45 anyone?
#27
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I keep wondering if I should tap the crank for pressure, never done it to an .010.
#28
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If I feel inspired this evening I'll cut and sand the wing.
Oh yeah.. I figured out how the HS-35 cases are held together when I stuck one to the profile fuse with adhesive transfer tape - they push and snap together, and the force required to open the case and dump the gear train onto the bench is apparently less than the holding force of the tape. Now I need to find my reading glasses, tweezers, bright light, patience... and all the parts.
#29
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It wont be long and you'll be able to tell if a pressure tap is needed after a few flights.
If you have a spare venturi to enlarge, I'll bet CC pressure is needed afterwards.
Otherwise, it is annoying when you have to run a vented system that needs to be set for the "4-2-4" to keep it from dying in the vertical climbs.
If you have a spare venturi to enlarge, I'll bet CC pressure is needed afterwards.
Otherwise, it is annoying when you have to run a vented system that needs to be set for the "4-2-4" to keep it from dying in the vertical climbs.
#30
I have had great runs with a hard tank rpm cresting over 36k level flying 31 to 33k.
Idle and ramp up are great with no flow issues. Small ABS pill tanks around 1/3rd oz.
is perfect. Mine came out to 6.8g and holds 5g of fuel.
Idle and ramp up are great with no flow issues. Small ABS pill tanks around 1/3rd oz.
is perfect. Mine came out to 6.8g and holds 5g of fuel.
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It wont be long and you'll be able to tell if a pressure tap is needed after a few flights.
If you have a spare venturi to enlarge, I'll bet CC pressure is needed afterwards.
Otherwise, it is annoying when you have to run a vented system that needs to be set for the "4-2-4" to keep it from dying in the vertical climbs.
If you have a spare venturi to enlarge, I'll bet CC pressure is needed afterwards.
Otherwise, it is annoying when you have to run a vented system that needs to be set for the "4-2-4" to keep it from dying in the vertical climbs.
I have to fit the fuel tank in a space 0.8" square tapering up to 1" square. I am thinking balloon may be the way to go.
#33
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Very similar - the Scat Cat firewall is 0.80" square OD, and the fuselage OD under the wing saddle is 1", so ID is 0.938". Lots of room...
What's with all the metric from stateside? Thought I was supposed to be quoting millimeters.. mind you I finished school right around metrification time, I mostly think Imperial and translate to metric anyways so what's the point.
The AG-03 airfoil works out to 0.1879" thick at 3" chord.. so 3/16" x 3" x 15" is the wing blank. I think I'll have to put a thin basswood LE on it though.. I really, really hate leading edge dings in sheet wings. Well, don't like them in any wing, but light sheet wings are esp. prone to dumbass handling.
What's with all the metric from stateside? Thought I was supposed to be quoting millimeters.. mind you I finished school right around metrification time, I mostly think Imperial and translate to metric anyways so what's the point.
The AG-03 airfoil works out to 0.1879" thick at 3" chord.. so 3/16" x 3" x 15" is the wing blank. I think I'll have to put a thin basswood LE on it though.. I really, really hate leading edge dings in sheet wings. Well, don't like them in any wing, but light sheet wings are esp. prone to dumbass handling.
#34
I was using calipers set on mm. My wing is 18" L x 2.9" at the root x 2" out on the tips
Firewall is almost the same yes least one number is .8"H x .85"W I made a hair more room
for the metal fuel line tubes glued to the fire wall upper left / right corners just the very min.
to slip fuel line over and still clear the engines back plate.
Fuselage at the leading edge of the wing .96"W x 1.15"H / Trailing edge of the wing .78" W x .66"H
Wing thickness at the center is .22" / .16" at the tips. With the Lil Speedy I used carbon tube
leading and trailing edge at the center for crush resistance with the rubber bands.
Firewall is almost the same yes least one number is .8"H x .85"W I made a hair more room
for the metal fuel line tubes glued to the fire wall upper left / right corners just the very min.
to slip fuel line over and still clear the engines back plate.
Fuselage at the leading edge of the wing .96"W x 1.15"H / Trailing edge of the wing .78" W x .66"H
Wing thickness at the center is .22" / .16" at the tips. With the Lil Speedy I used carbon tube
leading and trailing edge at the center for crush resistance with the rubber bands.
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-08-2016 at 08:13 AM.
#35
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I was going to drill through the backplate mount and bring the line(s) out that way. Fanatical maybe but who cares about the black backplates. Red I wouldn't.
I'll go the lazy smart-ass route and laser cut an inset for the LE from 3/16" basswood, then sand away the bits that don't look like the LE.
I'll go the lazy smart-ass route and laser cut an inset for the LE from 3/16" basswood, then sand away the bits that don't look like the LE.
#36
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Well, I drilled the backplate and that worked out fine. I have other balloons to try out, but this is a water bomb balloon plus barb fitting - 3cc capacity, < 1g. Need a bit more fuel than that, but I ran it in the basement this evening (sorry dear..) and it seemed to run steadily. Some leaning nose up, not too bad though. 10/32 nylon barb fitting, 10/32 nylon nut, the balloon neck stretches over the nut and seals fine. For a larger balloon I'll tap a nylon washer and pop the neck over that.
Weight here is the fuse, engine and prop, small balloon tank, and one HS-35 stuck in the rear of the fuse with all its wire.
Weight here is the fuse, engine and prop, small balloon tank, and one HS-35 stuck in the rear of the fuse with all its wire.
#37
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p.s. the profile served yet another purpose this evening, when I CA'ed a firewall to the front and drilled a through hole for the fuel line, then fit the balloon tank to it for the basement runs. So I got to go VROOM-VROOM with the fuselage indoors with the engine running full song.. now I'm getting stoked.
#38
Nice Mike with the stock black prop you should see good rpm what percent nitro?
At 33.5k your doing 40mph being such a clean small ship should look like 55.
Fast enough to have it grooving in the turns with spirit and not slowing down
much corkscrewing across the horizon. For me I need at least 3min flights
or it wont justify the pre flight prep time between flights wiping off the goo
filling up, start up efforts and needle time. After all that at least 3mins of bliss.
At 33.5k your doing 40mph being such a clean small ship should look like 55.
Fast enough to have it grooving in the turns with spirit and not slowing down
much corkscrewing across the horizon. For me I need at least 3min flights
or it wont justify the pre flight prep time between flights wiping off the goo
filling up, start up efforts and needle time. After all that at least 3mins of bliss.
#40
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Laminated 1/32" basswood to the front of the wing blank last night to toughen up the LE. Popped home today at lunch and cut the wing sanding templates from some formica sheet I had lying around for foam templates. With 45 minutes left for sanding time, that's about exactly what it took. I use a 24" long Al extrusion with 100 grit self adhesive paper, and support the wing on a dead flat surface while trying to sand evenly and patiently. With some care it seems to be a simple matter to sand down to the point where the paper grazes the template - there is a distinct change in the sound. So once I had it sanded to my satisfaction/patience limit, I then gave it a quick smoothing with 400 grit. Then back to work.... blahhhh
Next this late afternoon/evening was a coat of thinned nitrate dope with a healthy dose of fine balsa dust, and I let that dry for a while before sanding smooth with 400 then 800 grit. I'm using 3M wet or dry, the fine grits cut really well both wet or dry. After this I brushed thin CA along the TE about 3/8" wide both sides and kicked it, then sanded smooth again. Much tougher, more plastic feel now.
The blank was 12 grams before gluing on the templates (they weigh a piffle), after shaping/sanding 9 grams, after the sanding sealer and CA reads 10 grams.
Wing has nice torsional stiffness, the tissue should add to that yet.
Next step is cutting/fitting/shaping the tips. Then prep and tissue. After that I think I'll put in the linkages, then cut in a small amount of dihedral. After bonding I'll tissue over those areas again because it's the center section anyway and that should seal and toughen it up. Once that's done and had a few coats of thinned nitrate, I'll trim and decorate and what not, then a coat of clear epoxy to seal it against glow spoodge.
Next this late afternoon/evening was a coat of thinned nitrate dope with a healthy dose of fine balsa dust, and I let that dry for a while before sanding smooth with 400 then 800 grit. I'm using 3M wet or dry, the fine grits cut really well both wet or dry. After this I brushed thin CA along the TE about 3/8" wide both sides and kicked it, then sanded smooth again. Much tougher, more plastic feel now.
The blank was 12 grams before gluing on the templates (they weigh a piffle), after shaping/sanding 9 grams, after the sanding sealer and CA reads 10 grams.
Wing has nice torsional stiffness, the tissue should add to that yet.
Next step is cutting/fitting/shaping the tips. Then prep and tissue. After that I think I'll put in the linkages, then cut in a small amount of dihedral. After bonding I'll tissue over those areas again because it's the center section anyway and that should seal and toughen it up. Once that's done and had a few coats of thinned nitrate, I'll trim and decorate and what not, then a coat of clear epoxy to seal it against glow spoodge.
#42
How much with all the gear and what is your SQ / In on the wing?
I see 2oz with gear and mock up and est. 47 Sq / In. on page 1..
I see 2oz with gear and mock up and est. 47 Sq / In. on page 1..
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-09-2016 at 06:53 PM.
#43
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Got the tips on..
Need to fill a tiny gap or two. The TE is paper thin. Tips are 1/16" balsa, 1/64" ply with tiny lightening holes,1/8" balsa.
I need to find a smaller battery in my collection. Left hand picture is now with tips, engine and prop, no bottom rear hatch, and one HS35 - 40grams.
Rx = 2g
HS35 with short leads = 5g
Battery 300mAh 1S = 9g (160 = 4.5g)
5-6ml balloon tank = 2g
step up regulator = 3g
So far we're at 61 grams.
Let's say 10 grams for a really heavy finish
5 grams for linkages
I can do a shorting plug micro switch in a fraction of a gram.
77 grams so far = 2.7 ounces
I think I can shave a few grams from the estimates above.. 4.5g on the battery, 1g on the tank, 3 grams on the finish => 68.5 g or 2.4 ounces
I won't be too optimistic. If I hit 3 oz it will fly fine.
The rectangular wing section is 45 sq in, add tips 47 sq in.
Need to fill a tiny gap or two. The TE is paper thin. Tips are 1/16" balsa, 1/64" ply with tiny lightening holes,1/8" balsa.
I need to find a smaller battery in my collection. Left hand picture is now with tips, engine and prop, no bottom rear hatch, and one HS35 - 40grams.
Rx = 2g
HS35 with short leads = 5g
Battery 300mAh 1S = 9g (160 = 4.5g)
5-6ml balloon tank = 2g
step up regulator = 3g
So far we're at 61 grams.
Let's say 10 grams for a really heavy finish
5 grams for linkages
I can do a shorting plug micro switch in a fraction of a gram.
77 grams so far = 2.7 ounces
I think I can shave a few grams from the estimates above.. 4.5g on the battery, 1g on the tank, 3 grams on the finish => 68.5 g or 2.4 ounces
I won't be too optimistic. If I hit 3 oz it will fly fine.
The rectangular wing section is 45 sq in, add tips 47 sq in.
#44
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BTW I only realized partway through the build, this is the version that is stretched 1/2" in the nose, and 1/2" in the rear fuse from the scale Scat cat profile. So the profile is scale, except for the aspect ratio of the fuselage fore and aft of the fuselage.
The mock-up fuselage is the original scaled dimensions. I like the looks more, but let's see how the longitudinally tamed down version behaves first.
The mock-up fuselage is the original scaled dimensions. I like the looks more, but let's see how the longitudinally tamed down version behaves first.
#45
The extra nose helps with such a light weight engine and of course the tail moment will help
with the wind. Tracking should be more solid keeping the speed up. Agreed if you can do
3oz its a winner as I have seen 4.3 oz "fueled" fly very well with the larger Lil Speedy. I will be test
flying the NANO with the black stock prop, having no throttle once its up and running there
is no stopping whatever happens. Its been many many years since I have flown a 2ch plane lol.
Ready for group photo
with the wind. Tracking should be more solid keeping the speed up. Agreed if you can do
3oz its a winner as I have seen 4.3 oz "fueled" fly very well with the larger Lil Speedy. I will be test
flying the NANO with the black stock prop, having no throttle once its up and running there
is no stopping whatever happens. Its been many many years since I have flown a 2ch plane lol.
Ready for group photo
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-09-2016 at 11:25 PM.
#46
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These two ought to be pretty close in performance, they're getting to point of being engine aiming devices. You'll be in the air first, that's a guarantee. I still have another few evenings of obsessing over little details.
Big picture, the fact that at least two people are actively pursing a level of .010 performance that was barely possible some years ago is encouraging. And it's a pile of fun designing small like this. Time was that the status quo was the sense of achievement getting anything to fly RC with an .010. I freely admit your hijinx over the last few months got me motivated to do this, there is always a list of ideas crying for attention.
Big picture, the fact that at least two people are actively pursing a level of .010 performance that was barely possible some years ago is encouraging. And it's a pile of fun designing small like this. Time was that the status quo was the sense of achievement getting anything to fly RC with an .010. I freely admit your hijinx over the last few months got me motivated to do this, there is always a list of ideas crying for attention.
#47
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p.s. the pre-launch willies are the fun part of flying two channel.. like pausing at the top of a steep tobaggan run. Oh wait, you don't have those in Texas. Okay, it's like... the pause at the top of a hill on a bicycle with no brakes.
#48
This is a good base line example of what the new micro's are chasing with a black stock prop.
Test flight after I reset the ball socket. I did do some ice sledding in Holland for a few yrs yes
over the edge no stopping after that for about 900ft runs good times. I need to pop over
to the hobby store for some small dia piano wire and perhaps a roll of light weight covering.
Are you planing on using any props beyond the stock one? The 3.75x3E cut down to 2.6x3
may do very well up to 90 to 100 mph is possible down wind passes. Green Drone prop
cut to 2.6x2 would be peaking the engine around 36.7k / 70 mph. I hit 34k with it as a 3x2 / 64 mph.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q70KRjnnF1s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q70KRjnnF1s
Test flight after I reset the ball socket. I did do some ice sledding in Holland for a few yrs yes
over the edge no stopping after that for about 900ft runs good times. I need to pop over
to the hobby store for some small dia piano wire and perhaps a roll of light weight covering.
Are you planing on using any props beyond the stock one? The 3.75x3E cut down to 2.6x3
may do very well up to 90 to 100 mph is possible down wind passes. Green Drone prop
cut to 2.6x2 would be peaking the engine around 36.7k / 70 mph. I hit 34k with it as a 3x2 / 64 mph.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q70KRjnnF1s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q70KRjnnF1s
#49
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Absolutely - this thing will be totally muzzled with the stock prop, but for sure Ill use it for test flights. I've ordered some of those 3x2 and I have a couple of the 3.75x3 already.
What have you come up with for full throttle fuel consumption? I ran off a 3cc balloon with maybe 2.7-2.8cc of 35% fuel last night in the workshop, but had no watch/clock with in sight at the time (duh). I counted about 1:20 run time. Looks like I should have 5-6cc, which I can do with a slightly different fitting and part of a larger balloon. Weird thing I noticed is that the engine goes slightly rich about 1/2-2/3 through the fuel burn, yet there is no elastic tension on the bladder to explain this. Only two runs but they both did it a bit. Jury is out whether it is needle vibes or fuel head variation or just random circumstance.
What have you come up with for full throttle fuel consumption? I ran off a 3cc balloon with maybe 2.7-2.8cc of 35% fuel last night in the workshop, but had no watch/clock with in sight at the time (duh). I counted about 1:20 run time. Looks like I should have 5-6cc, which I can do with a slightly different fitting and part of a larger balloon. Weird thing I noticed is that the engine goes slightly rich about 1/2-2/3 through the fuel burn, yet there is no elastic tension on the bladder to explain this. Only two runs but they both did it a bit. Jury is out whether it is needle vibes or fuel head variation or just random circumstance.
#50
I get good run times with 15cc the TD .010 does 11 mins the TD .020 gets 8 mins
Prop selection makes a difference piston wear makes a difference looser fit tends to blow
out more raw fuel. Hotter loaded engine needs more fuel mix to stay at peak.
On a side note the new tank for the NANO is approx 8cc I expect at least 5min flights
It has proven to get 3.2mins with the TD .020
Note my aluminum after market CNC back plate for the TD .020 has the same
dia. as the TD .010 at some point I plane to but the TD .020 on the NANO
The engine has ran 29,554 RPM / 84 MPH with the 3.75x3 with exhaust throttle.
The smaller / lighter NANO plane will allow the engine to unload past 31k / 88 mph
I want to try a 3x4 / 31.05k / 118 mph potential world RC record holder for the fastest
.020 will vid when I try it. The event will be shocking to watch.
Another note I have a Special light weight .049 for the nose of the Lil Speedy II
Using a postage stamp style back plate I go from TD .020 / 28g to 39g .049 with a TD cylinder.
Watch the first pass..best pass further in the vid the camera barely see's it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwkxfJ8_gQE
Prop selection makes a difference piston wear makes a difference looser fit tends to blow
out more raw fuel. Hotter loaded engine needs more fuel mix to stay at peak.
On a side note the new tank for the NANO is approx 8cc I expect at least 5min flights
It has proven to get 3.2mins with the TD .020
Note my aluminum after market CNC back plate for the TD .020 has the same
dia. as the TD .010 at some point I plane to but the TD .020 on the NANO
The engine has ran 29,554 RPM / 84 MPH with the 3.75x3 with exhaust throttle.
The smaller / lighter NANO plane will allow the engine to unload past 31k / 88 mph
I want to try a 3x4 / 31.05k / 118 mph potential world RC record holder for the fastest
.020 will vid when I try it. The event will be shocking to watch.
Another note I have a Special light weight .049 for the nose of the Lil Speedy II
Using a postage stamp style back plate I go from TD .020 / 28g to 39g .049 with a TD cylinder.
Watch the first pass..best pass further in the vid the camera barely see's it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwkxfJ8_gQE
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 03-10-2016 at 02:05 PM.