aspeed

That video prompted me to make a few turbo heads, and buy another couple .07 TTs, along with that fairly long thread on correcting the TT .07s. The ASP .15 really responded well to that mod. Congrats on the worlds first from the top of the world!!! The TT .07 really idles nicely for a little motor.

gmeyers

Until lately I haven't wanted to mess much with things like changing heads n such - my main goal has been to get it out of the box and head to the flying field. I did tinker with a couple of .07's because I needed one that flew my RC planes with the right power and weren't too heave. But I have more interest in making changes now.

Pond Skipper

There is a .07 car engine I have 4 of them and have had some good success with them as is with
some typical converting to aero use. The header pipe needs the lower half cut away and the back
plate converted for non pull start by reducing its pull start mounting etc.

7CXP Side Exhaust Nitro Engine
Brand: HSP
Item No.: PT0701A1

7CXP Side Exhaust Nitro Engine
Capacity: 1.14CC
Bore: 11.50mm
Stroke: 11.0mm
R.P.M: 31000
Power: 0.65HP
Weight: 125g

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7CXP-Side-E...53.m1438.l2649

Benched one in a outrigger hydro design too.


SH-.07 / 1.14cc converted car engine. 38,680 rpm static / 30% nitro / 20% oil.


Aero set up:

SH .07 / APC 4 2x4 / 25.7k / Profi .8cc Tuned Pipe
4.2x4 / 25,678 to 770 / .147hp / 110w / 98 mph / .86 lbs / 13.8oz / est. 29k / 110mph 20% nitro and oil


Flew it with a APC Carbon Prop:


.07 RC Car Engine Conversion with Profi 1/2A Tuned Pipe Engine is called a SH-07
APC Black Carbon 4.75x4.75EC speed prop 26,640 rpm best pass down wind 119.84 mph
Static Power Stats - 22,286 rpm / 141watts / .192 hp / 17.3oz thrust
78F bit of wind 8 to 12mph per weather data with gusts.

gmeyers

I know that some of those car engines run extremely well and throttle response is great. Like the looks of the carbs on them too. I have been tempted to buy an engine or two just for the carbs. I have 4 Conquest .15's needing carbs and 3 Supertigre X-11's needing carbs too.

aspeed

Conquests are nice. They came with a Perry carb. I don't like mine, There is likely something better that will fit from ASP or even OS. I like to play with the motors just to see which one will work well on whichever plane. It is also a long winter, and very windy here, and I like to hear some noise. I like to fire up the mill and lathe once a month whether I need it or not. Reminds me of working days, but isn't really work.

Mr Cox

The carbs for car engines usually do not fit very well for airplane use. The main needle often sticks out too much forward and it will be in the way of the prop. Here is an example were it just about works, on an OPS .12 engine:

Mr Cox

If my notes are correct, then both the ASP ,12 and the ST .11X have a carb though of 9mm, but I haven't tried to make any swap. The stock ST carb is pretty hard to beat.

I actually like the Perry style carbs. I they work great on Veco, HB and Conquest engines, but I'm not using any muffler pressure on either of them.

Otherwise I'm all for swapping around carbs to see what happens. The Norvel .15 for instance has a very restrictive stock carb. It idles great but the high end suffers a little. The MVVS carb is a direct drop in though and an instant 1500rpm or so gain on an 8x4 prop.

gmeyers

My grandson keeps my lathe busy making wooden fishing bobbers and I can't buy any time on it. I have two Unimats but they're no good for heavy work and he likes the big lathe for his bobbers. He won't touch a mill but my projects are all lathe suitable. I have a couple of carbs I could fit to the Supertigre but like you I think the Tigers used the very best carbs. My X-11's have a lot of time on them now and still humming along. I have one X-11 carb still in the original box never used but I'm saving it for the day I sell one and want to bring Top Dollar. I'll look around for some 9mm carbs or O.S engines with carbs just in case one will work. Most of the small ones are airbleed though and I would rather find a two-needle which is why I was looking at car engines to begin with.

Mr Cox

The APS .12 are twin needle and it will drop right in without any modification. I don't know how it will run though as I haven't tried running it. The bore of the ASP is smaller, but so is its spray bar, so it they may well have very similar effective intake areas.

Pond Skipper

As shown with the .07 you can remove the stock NV use a 90 deg nipple and run a NV well in the clear.
If you can't rotate to a tight fit you can use a nylon washer to clear or a two piece nipple as shown with the Sirio .09

gmeyers

I rummaged thru my box of accumulated RC carbs and found three that will fill my need for the Supertigre X-11's - They are new still in package I probably picked up in some buy-out sometime during my 65 years of messing with this hobby. one is from an old OS 25 but it is air bleed the other two are also new in package for Thunder Tiger somethings, but they fit with a quick spin on my lathe and maybe just a little lube (don't want too tight a fit might split crankcase) There's a job that won't interfere with grandson's set-up for turning fishing bobbers that I can do on a Unimat. I still don't have any for my Conquests but I do have some that look like the perry carb. . And if I happen across an ASP . or just the carb on Ebay I'll give it a try - would prefer two needles.

aspeed

I just looked at an ASP .21 that has a screw for low speed mixture. 6.5mm bore with about a 1/16th inch needle going right through. The OD is 9mm.

Pond Skipper

Another thing I like to do is grind off the coupler portion of the pipe as shown, the silicon tube holds
great without the need of a zip tie. All the same I still have a iso-mount at the stinger to keep the pipe
stable from migrating off the header. No zip ties make for a cleaner look.

GallopingGhostler

If you're into speed, then of course the smaller lighter displacement engines with lots of power at higher rpms really shine. The slower flying sport planes benefit from a slower turning larger propeller for thrust. In those, the lower power higher torque engines of the 1960's suit them well. Since all engines went to Schneurle with smaller props, I've noticed that more and more you see electric flight, slow fliers using larger diameter props at slower revolutions. These have displaced the A and B sized engines.

An interesting discussion I saw was from Peter Chinn on the old Brown Junior engine. A .60, it had the power of the then late 1950's "modern" glow engines, but could turn a 14 inch prop. When one had a free flight with a 7 or 8 foot wingspan, turning such a prop was at better advantage than a .15 turning an 8 or 9 inch prop, which with the more modern Schneurle .10's of same HP turning a 7 inch prop would be even more unsuitable.

It would be interesting to see how a piped Fuji .05 in a CL speed plane would perform. I suppose though, that because there are more powerful engines, that such would not be considered competitive, although it is a powerhouse in its own right.

I'm now seeing a few instances of folk converting RC car Schneurle engines to aircraft use. This is truly creative. One finds interesting and thought provoking developments still on the flying field.

gmeyers

I'm not into speed - especially control line speed where you must spin faster than a gyro or top and I'm too old and gymnastically inept for that. I've got a couple of 1/2 A's that are in the 120 mph range and can barely keep up with them. Thinking maybe I should put a slow turning 4-stroke on my Senior Kadet and letting it putter around the sky. I do like those fast turning engines on the bench though I've got a few of the Chinese Racing engines and when I'm done testing I'll probably list em on EBay.

aspeed

I had trouble keeping up with the speed models when I was in my 20's. I still want to do it, but am near 60 now. I have no place to do it any more that is handy, but would do it in a second. (well when the weather is warmer) I have a couple of those chinese .049s. They were more of an assembled kit that needed a lot of fitting and new parts. I got them going well eventually on the test stand. No parts available any more, so I don't want to go nuts on the little props. I think the Fuji could match it with some work. It is just a side exhaust though like the Picco P0. Yes it would be nice to get a real time on a speed model. The props have come a long say since when I flew, as well as the motors. I still want to make a B speed model with a Novarossi .28 and pipe. All the larger classes don't allow a pipe, and that sort of takes the fun out of it for me. A B speed has 70 ft. lines so the ? 200 mph might not get you as dizzy as an A speed model on shorter lines going that fast.

gmeyers

On the Chinese .049's - don't the Chinese GZ .049 parts work the same?? I was under the impression that it was simply a name change but the engines stayed pretty much the same.

Pond Skipper

If for RC you can always run it a bit rich with less pitch if no throttle to keep it tame enough till you are
use to it.

GallopingGhostler

An old trick is to put the prop on backwards, reduces thrust through reduced aerodynamic efficiency.

aspeed

My GZ doesn't turn up as fast as the CS. They do look the same. I think they might have some interchangeable parts. It is still a CS though(?) and they are finished with production too. The older CS had an engineering change early on. There was a small block and later a big block, maybe to blend in an .06? I am not a historian because of my memory, but fairly old to have gone through stuff. It is always easy to slow a motor down. A bigger prop with less pitch, a few head spacers to give less advance timing effect. The motor will last longer and thank you for it too.

Pond Skipper

I have 4 CS engines two RC two CL Speed. Yet to fly them let alone bench test.
Most I have done is cut out the slots for the prop blades on the one shown.
Size comparison to the Fuji:

aspeed

You have a fair investment in these little guys. I didn't know there was an RC model. I am surprised that a pressure fitting comes with an rc carb, as they seldom work in larger engines. A pipe with an rc engine could make it hard to set up. Should go like stink if you do. Does it have the pipe timing? It will be about 180 degrees exhaust and the port will be right up to the top of the casting hole. Mine came with a two piece head that did not use a 1/4 32 plug. I made a Nelson plug head way back in the 1990s probably. Got the blank right from Henry or Garry Gou (Gow) It was not outstanding in the non piped version. I recently made a turbo head and it is much better. I wish I had made it back then. Might have set a record even. Just a Canadian record, but still good bragging rights.

Pond Skipper

My RC version actually uses a Nelson plug, I put hex head bolts on it rather than the original flush flat head type.
I will end up with pipe pressure tap and swap that back plate to the CL version when ready to bench test it.
Perhaps this weekend with the extra free time to tinker, will post a vid. Rare any vids on piped CS engines let
alone none for the RC version.

aspeed

Here is a pic of my old one. I sawed off the exh. outlet and ground away what would interfere with the exhaust. Probably a waste of time, and I should have taken an rpm reading before and after. I should do a piped run of the other motor and put it on Youtube to be the First!!!. I have not done the Youtube thing yet. They want me to register. Too much info, and I want to avoid the flaming comments. I do spend a lot of time looking at the vids though.

GallopingGhostler

If you already have a G-mail account, then basically you are already registered. You have the ability to delete comments. I've deleted a few who are seeding my posts with replies to visit their blog sites, or entice you to unwholesome activities. Some of those blog sites are places I'd never visit. Makes you wonder what type people are out there sometimes.