Iron on fabric?
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Iron on fabric?
Coverite has a iron on fabric witch requires balsarite adhesive.This adhesive comes in fabric and film formulas, does anyone know witch to use and if it's fabric could I get good results from the film formula?[sm=confused.gif]
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RE: Iron on fabric?
This is the information given at www.coverite.com
"Available in Balsarite - Fabric for fabric and Micafilm, and Balsarite - Film for all film coverings including Black Baron, Solarfilm and MonoKote "
I have a can of Balsarite film formula, it says "not for Micafilm" on the can. I had not noticed that there were two formulas.
At first there was only one formula and you could use it with monokote and fabric. It looks like the same stuff to me. You could try it on a small piece of balsa and see how it works with the fabric.
"Available in Balsarite - Fabric for fabric and Micafilm, and Balsarite - Film for all film coverings including Black Baron, Solarfilm and MonoKote "
I have a can of Balsarite film formula, it says "not for Micafilm" on the can. I had not noticed that there were two formulas.
At first there was only one formula and you could use it with monokote and fabric. It looks like the same stuff to me. You could try it on a small piece of balsa and see how it works with the fabric.
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RE: Iron on fabric?
ORIGINAL: Lynn S
I have a can of Balsarite film formula, it says "not for Micafilm" on the can. I had not noticed that there were two formulas.
I have a can of Balsarite film formula, it says "not for Micafilm" on the can. I had not noticed that there were two formulas.
Just my opinions...
AJC
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RE: Iron on fabric?
It looks and smells like Formica contact cement to me...just thinner....
also....."Warning do not use if you are, or suspect that you may be pregnant"
also....."Warning do not use if you are, or suspect that you may be pregnant"
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RE: Iron on fabric?
Fabric is not necessarily heavy. The picture is of my OS max 10 powered “Miss America”. It is covered with Sig Koverall with the fuselage finished in color dope, and the wings finished with clear dope to which has been added a little yellow dye. The covering is lighter than most iron-on plastic film. Such fabric is certainly suitable for most small R/C models and is incredibly tough and puncture resistant.
Another alternative is polyspan. I have a Norvel.061 powered R/C model covered with it and a Cox .02 powered free flight. Polyspan is about the same weight as medium silkspan but is heat shrinkable and completely waterproof. I sealed it with two light coats of dyed dope. It is much stronger than silkspan, and the Norvel powered craft has flown for three seasons and has yet to have a puncture in the covering.
Another alternative is polyspan. I have a Norvel.061 powered R/C model covered with it and a Cox .02 powered free flight. Polyspan is about the same weight as medium silkspan but is heat shrinkable and completely waterproof. I sealed it with two light coats of dyed dope. It is much stronger than silkspan, and the Norvel powered craft has flown for three seasons and has yet to have a puncture in the covering.
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RE: Iron on fabric?
Im sorry for the confusion, what I ment to say was Iron on tissue .But its good to see that you guy's know about almost anything.coverite's product "coverlite" is what im using. In responce to AJC the finish im looking for is stick & tissue.[sm=drowning.gif]
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RE: Iron on fabric?
The Balsarite will work well in that case. Or you could do what us free flighters have done for a few years now and use glue stick. You need to work a bit quicker with the glue stick or be prepared to add a bit of water to re-activate the glue but it works well and almost instantly.
If you use the glue stick be aware that you will want to let the glue "set" for about 3 to 4 hours before you water mist the tissue to shrink it. Doing it sooner can result in the mist re-activating the soft glue and letting the tissue slip and lift. Wait for 4 hours and it's not a problem as long as you don't soak it to the point the water is running off the tissue. just a light mist that results in the tissue going slack is plenty in any case.
It's good to see folks still using the traditional materials for a traditional look....
If you use the glue stick be aware that you will want to let the glue "set" for about 3 to 4 hours before you water mist the tissue to shrink it. Doing it sooner can result in the mist re-activating the soft glue and letting the tissue slip and lift. Wait for 4 hours and it's not a problem as long as you don't soak it to the point the water is running off the tissue. just a light mist that results in the tissue going slack is plenty in any case.
It's good to see folks still using the traditional materials for a traditional look....