octo

Greetings, all!

I just want to say, 'Hi'. I am newly returned to powered models and have happily discovered this board. I am halfway through an HOB FW 190 to be powered by a TD .049 and 1/4 the way through a Guillow P-51 for .020 control line ( for the kids). I've been working in a relative vacuum and I hope you won't mind a dumb question now and then.

Thanks!

octo

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Yo Octo,

I guess nobody has told you about the special Small Bird registration fee.

Just send five dollars (or two Weak Signals tickets) to me. I'll take care of the rest for you.

By the way, make sure you build that HOB kit as light as you can.

octo

Well, I'm all for the five bucks (until I discover the meaning of 'Weak Signals'); so, gimme an address to send the money

by 'light', how light do you mean, exactly? Moreover, where can I shave weight besides getting the lightest servos, etc? Or is it more like I selected too small an engine? I'm only doing what HOB told me to do! I can't help my choices!

thanks

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Greetings, OCTO! Did you make it to the TOLEDO SHOW? Best of luck with the HOB plane. I think the days of treading blindly into the unknown are over if you stay tuned to this channel. These guys[ the regulars of the forum] have in a matter of a few months turned my life around, now I only drink heavily after crashing, not before!

octo

Thanks, combat! Nope...didn't make Toledo; but, I'm looking forward to some local stuff and am just starting to get to know the Lancaster network of modellers and asst. geeks As for me, I only drink when the HOB instructions tell me to; ie, when the instruction is 'installation is typical'. Man, I can't wait to finish this and have a 'typical' point of reference.

Lynn S

Ask away...and post some pictures of your FW and P-51!

BMatthews

Welcome on board octo.

And don't pay any attention to Raymond. He's just trying to horn in on my gig as Forum Extortionist. You just send that $5 to me and I'll see you get protection from the dreaded Norvelites around here....

How light is light? For a 230 to 250 sq inch model I don't like to see the weight go much over 16 to 17 oz if you expect spirited aerobatic performance that involves good climbing. If it hits 19 to 20 oz it'll still fly well but the climb will be compromised and you'll find you need to climb then dive to build kinetic energy to carry you through maneuvers.

And there is no dumb questions around here. Only dumb replies, of which I've got a whole boatload to share....

2fast4u

My Feedback: (5)

Welcome OCTO. Glad to hear that you are including the kids in your hobby. I will be teaching my 6 year old girl how to fly this summer with an electric glider. Can't wait.

All of my HOB kits have flown well, if I could get a good enough launch. They are a bit on the heavy side compaired to some of the more modern kits, (HERR kits being my favorite) but that in NO WAY means that they are not good planes. Besides they have a great scale look when finished.

Good luck, and post pics if you can. We love pics....

octo

I'll try to post some pics this weekend. I recently covered the wings on the Focke (my maiden covering experience), painted their underside the wrong color and am awaiting the arrival of the TD before shaping the cowl. I may repaint this weekend. I just finished stringing the fuselage on the P-51 and that forced me to take a break from balsa. Instead, I am nearly finished with a 1/72 Avro Lancaster from AirFix. That was fun, too.

octo

Cool...competing extortionists!

Thanks for the input on weight. As this is my first, very first, RC, I'd like to keep it very manouverable and it's already going to give me a bit of grief: 1) it's a wing-under, not the best for learning, I've heard and 2) it's aerilon/elevator control, though I may modify to include rudder control. I fully expect to auger it into the ground, actually; but, here's to hoping I won't!

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

OCTO, some kits have wood and building techniques that should be left in the box. Some doublers, formers, and wing reenforcements are not needed. It becomes a viscious cycle of over building the fuselage, equipping it with heavy linkages, then having to strengthen the wing to compensate.. the 1/2A warbird kits that I have seen are strong enough to fly .15 combat with, and tend to just flub around with 1/2A power. If you put in a FUGI film tank, HS55 servos , a 210 NIMH battery, and featherweight[ ELECTRON] rcvr, you will have shaved a few ozs off what" normal" gear would weigh. The elevator linkage could be converted to pull/pull with a 1/16"ply control horn and SPIDERLINE fishing line. It looks pretty cool to only see the thread emerging from a pin hole in the fuselage, vs a big gaping slot for a wire. The other thing is to avoid epoxy, and paint. The FW190 sure would be easy to just blast with spray paint, but iron on covering, followed up with polyurethane sealing of the seams is a light and fairly durable way to go.

octo

well, that's a lot of info, cp! Can I use the push/pull you describe if I opt to modify the rudder? The only epoxy I've used was on canopy to fuse. The rest is titebond wood glue. As for paint, it was airbrushed on the underside of the wings; though, in the wrong color. I suppose I should remove that before repainting, yes?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

OCTO, sounds like you are pretty far along with the plane. I would not add rudder control, just keep the aileron control conservative. To make the plane turn, you bank it, then pull back on the stick to complete the turn. You will need to visually inspect the plane very well from the rear to make sure that there are no warps, and that you have the flaps in a neutral position' The fore and aft balance point is crucial[25% of the cord, or where the kit says to have it]. the engine should be just into a scream with the nose pointed straight up. 1/2as need time to allow needle adjustments to sink in, so give the engine lots of time to stabilize before you are sold on a setting. The launch is straight into the wind, and keep the throw level, or actually slightly down, this way the plane will begin to fly sooner. Big mistake to let go too soon, and stall it . The flying away from you is intuitive, it's the return trip that is confusing. You will rarely crash a plane when the wings are fairly level. To keep the wings level[when the plane is flying towards you], you move the stick in the direction of the low wing panel, and it will level out. Over control is the most common thing we all do as beginners. It's amazing how well a straight plane will fly on it's own if we allow it to. If you can work the plane up to 100-200 ft., then just be happy with getting it trimmed out for nearly hands off flight, and do big circles up there. avoid tight turns, because that will put you in a hard bank, which is a common precurser to crashing when you aren't experienced. It is really helpful to have a highly contrasting stripe of color on the top side of the wing, I don't care if you have to scotch tape some yellow caution tape onto your beautiful warbird paint sceme, when you are learning you need to be able to tell which side is up at all times! Good luck!

fritzke

My Feedback: (1)

Welcome OCTO! You have come across a good NG to guide you back into !QUOT!modern!QUOT! R/C.

But about that HOB FW 190 being your first R/C plane, that is not so good. Unless you are
an R/C pilot !QUOT!idiot savant!QUOT! or have spent a lot of time on the R/C Simulator, your chances
of successfully flying it are quite small. (Use light gear, and leave off the landing gear. And a
Norvell .074 is a far better choice of engine for the HOB planes I think.)

But first, get a Herr Cloud ranger, build that and fly it first. You need to learn how to
steer coming and going, how to land in the same zip code when you deadstick, how
not to overcontrol, when to panic, when not too.. Better chances with a slower, larger, lighter
wing loading plane like the Herr. Make it DARK on the bottom, light/bright on top.


Learn to fly that, then tackle the FW! Then you probably wont auger it in, altough I still
do once in a while even after flying R/C for almost 30 years!

Dave

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Octo,

I can see that you have already gotten some really good advice from the previous posts. But none of them mentioned the special anti-destruction module that I market exclusively. You will not find a review of this product in any magazine. Nor will you see advertisements offering to sell you this extra special item. No, this is only available to dues-paying members of the aforementioned organization that I am proud to represent. So, regardless of what other extortionists may say. you might want to consider sending me the five bucks.

BMatthews

See what I have to put up with around here? All these Johnny come lately yout's that think they can be a contenda! I think it's time for some an object lesson. Guido, show this LeFlyr guy what the delete account button is for.... and don't be gentle with 'im. I want'a see his eyeballs POP!

Octo. First RC model and HOB scale models are not a good combination in one sentance. FInish it by all means and then hang it up for inspiration and build a better trainer for your first model. Really.

Have you contacted or joined a club where you can get flying instruction? Even most trainers will survive longer if you have an instructor to help out. Of with some RC simulator time and a slower flying powered glider like model I think it's possible to train yourself without TOO much damage.

Jim OHaver

Not at all. Have built several of the HOB 1/2As over the years and have two of them flying right now: Bf-109, P-47, and friend is working on the Fw-190. Ask away. Also, a few days ago I say a thread with a gent who had uploaded pictures of his Fw-190 equipeed with Norvell .074, but now I can't find that thread. It's on this BB somewhere. Jim

zoomzoooie

Raymond your gadget sounds like its full of hot air!

ZZ

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Zoo Dude,

Hot air eh? Well I never ... Ok, perhaps I have been accused of hot-airness once or twice. But I can assure you that I could really use an anti-destruction module if I DID have one.

Octo Seriously, I guess you can tell that these guys who have posted responses really would like to help - and more than anything we'd like to be able to be there in person to make your project as sussessful and stress-free as possible.

However, since it is a little too far for me to travel I can make you a special price for my series of 8-track R/C training cartridges. Yes, friends if you order within the next 11.7 seconds I will include at no extree cost ...

Aw never mind. I just can't help it. When you fly as poorly as I do you have to compensate any way you can. I'll go stand in the corner for a week.

Digger-RCU

Greetings all,
I cant help but get involved here, I really like the HOB 1/12th kits, but I would agree with the above posters and say that the TD is under power for this plane. My p-47 flies very well on a Norvel .074. It is the engine I would advise. Allows the plane to fly with authority.

Also, I have seen several of these planes (including my own) that scraped the plastic turtle-deck, and fabricated it out of basla. I think this mod makes for a stronger and more attractive plane. (Just my 2 cents)


Randy (Digger) Birt

octo

Yipes!

I am overwhelmed by information. You guys are swell...really, even the extortionists. Sadly, I have an ABBA tape stuck in my 8-Track and cannot accept any further offers involving it

I can see that the HOB FW190 will be a challenge! I have, however, decided it will be the first plane I fly this time around. Likely the first I'll wreck, as well. I'll start with the TD and advance to the Norvel next phase. Maybe I'm bullheaded, maybe I am a savant...who can say? All this info (combatpigg) is greatly appreciated.

The Guillow P-51 is coming along. Framed the wings today. I've opted to make it a FF w/ the Cox (or something) .020 and give it to the kids to throw around.

I hope to have some pics of the 190 this week, after I clean and repaint the underside of the wings.

Jim OHaver

I agree with you about the plastic turtle deck thing. It IS heavy, ain't it? Still I used it on my Messerschmidt and it flies great with the intended TD .05, so now, between the two of us, we're up to FOUR cents worth!
Jim

octo

Well, here's a little update. I recieved my Norvel .049 in the mail today ( half the price of a cox) and it's a bit larger, isn't it? Also, there are two openings on the muffler. Should I put holes in the cowl to accomodate exhaust or will this all operate without vent? It also seems that this project will be completed engine in as it won't move easily (if at all) through the hatch. So, it's plastic bag over the engine for finish sand and paint. Always a learning experience.

encan

where did you get the norvel .049 for half price of a cox??

Jim OHaver

I use the Cox TDs because that's what I have had for years, and they continue to provide good service. Let me know how you make out with your Norvell, because I have mixed reports on them. Jim