Ragwing

My Feedback: (2)

I've got the cowl on the Altair, and now I figured it's about time to decide on what I will do about a needle valve extension. Currently, the needle valve would need on the order of a 1" extension to reach the outside of the cowl. I'm thinking about having a welder I know weld a small wheel collar onto the end of the needle valve. But I'm secretly hoping that someone else might have a better and simpler idea. This is for a Cox TD .020, any thoughts?

Thank you!

Derek

vauxhall

If you get hold of a copper nail or even a piece of brass rod from your LHS , file off the blackening on the needle valve and so lder it on.Or the cheaters way out, would be slide a piece of tight fitting fuel tube onto the needle valve and cut to the right length.

PsychTeacher

Ditto the latter. The clear vinyl tubing is stiffer, smaller in diameter but a little harder to install. It might be better for a 1" extension. This piece of silicone tubing has been working great since last August, however.

Ben Newkirk

rrragmanliam

My Feedback: (1)

Music wire, Epoxy - works for me

DICKEYBIRD

STEP AWAY FROM THE NEEDLE VALVE EXTENSION!

Grind away the black oxide from the needle knob; cut the head off (and grind away the oxide) a 4-40 allen head capscrew and silver-solder it on the needle. Drill a small hole in the cowling for access with a ball-end allen wrench. Very precise adjustments can be done with no long extension to turn into a blur and destroy that precious Tee Dee needle housing! [X(]

I've done this on my .020 Stealth Bipe, the Twin Lizzie 2 and the Gyrator. All have the engines completely enclosed in radial cowlings and are very easy to adjust.

Here's a pic of the .020 needle in the bipe.

jessiej

What a great idea, DICKEYBIRD! I have one with an extension that I will cut off and convert to your method this afternoon. Thanks!
(Now if I can just keep up with that @!~$%*&^ allen wrench)

jess

DesignMan

Gee, I usually use a piece of dowel, and a piece of fuel hose as a coupler. An alternative is to get some Gold-n-rod, cut the head off the needle and shove the plastic down over the stub. JB weld if required. The knurling on the rod makes for a good grip.

The original Killer Bees used this type extension because we could not keep a standard needle from vibrating out.

On my Hyper Viper, I drilled a 3/32" hole down the entire length of the needle shaft to lighten it up. Works great, no drifting, even with a Venomish front end and drilled venturi.

Silvaire

My Feedback: (50)

Dickybird, that's GENIUS! Did you come up with that one all on your own?

When will the engine manufacturers begin putting a recessed hex in the ends of their needle valves??

Arlen

DICKEYBIRD

No, no genius here! Like a lot of the tricks I use, I can't claim that one as my own. I saw it in magazine article somewhere.

Ragwing

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for all the great answers guys. I think I'll be trying the Dickeybird's method first, we'll see how it goes.

Dickybird,

Are you using any special paints on those pop-bottle cowls, or just the regular rattle can? I'm planning on using krylon and a automotive top coat to make it fuel proof, but I am a little worried about cracking and crazing of the paint. Have you had any problems with that?

Thanks again,

Derek

DICKEYBIRD

I used Top Flite LustreKote, warmed the can in warm water, shook the heck out of it and sprayed on a very light tack coat. After it dryed for 30 min., I sprayed on 3 more coats, letting each flash off. I let it cure for a week before getting fuel anywhere near it and so far, 25% hasn't damaged it. I do keep a paper towel handy when fueling to soak up any spills immediately.