hello123

I'm wondering if the guillows series P-47D Thunderbolt 30.25inch wingspan is meant for the cox sure starter engine .049. If it's not do you have any mounting tips?

hello123

Has anyone converted a guillows P-47D Thunderbolt 30.25inch wingspan in this series to RC?

hello123

can anyone help me! I'm planning to install a 2 channel radio sysem ailerons and elevator with an .049. would i have to modify any thing in the construction?

Lynn S

Did you look at Colmo's thread about his Zero?
They should be about the same.
From what I hear the Guillows kits have very hard balsa that is hard to work with, but it can be done if you are good with cutting small pieces of balsa. I quickly turned a my Guillows Spitfire (control line)into a bag of balsa sticks but I was not that great of a builder 36 yrs ago.

vauxhall

Hi Lynn,I did the same thing with a Guillows Corsair converted to C/L , fortunately I covered it with Monokote so all the balsa toothpicks were in a dark blue plastic bag. It only takes a second to turn 'em back into kits.

Lynn S

I guess mine didn't know how to go in a circle. I think it headed to the left instead of pulling the lines to the right.

hello123

I looked at colmo's thread about his Zero and I don't think it's possible to build it at 135 grams[X(]. I built a Curtiss P-40 warhawk at 300 grams with an .049 (baby bee). Though the 2-channel radio I used was from a toy remote control car with two servos. It barely flied and crashed on the first flight when the glow plug died out!!![:@]

Lynn S

hello123, I think you will find that most any scale model warbird will not be easy to fly. In my opinion, Guillows kits will be even harder to build and fly for more than one flight.
It just depends on your level of skill, some builders can make these work, but I would say most don't have the skills to build a successful plane.
If this is one of your first planes I would try an easier to fly model, such as one of the Herr kits. That will at least give you a plane that can fly.
I spent several sleepless nights when I was in college working on my Spitfire..... all for nothing.

hello123

Thanks for you help (the thread).

BMatthews

Moved from a deleted thread. Hello123, there was no need to start a new thread. You've got this one already going on this topic and it's customary to just carry on as things change and develop.

As for how much weight it'll handel do you know what the wing area is on the kit? That's probably THE major factor.

A nice wingloading for a small 1/2A is about 8 oz/sq-ft. A max loading that will fly decently (subjective I know but you get the idea) would be 10 to 11 oz/sq-ft. At 11 to 12 it'll start to tip stall easily and snap roll out of high G maneuvers and glide very fast and steep during landing approaches. All in all not much fun as it would seem like it's lugging around.

hello123

Sorry about starting a new thread. I'm new to this site.

(RE:do you know what the wing area is on the kit?)I believe it's somewhere between 160(at least) to 180

hello123

RE:At 11 to 12 it'll start to tip stall easily and snap roll out of high G maneuvers

Wht's a tip stall and what's a high G maneuver? I just don't know?

BMatthews

High G is when you pull back hard on the stick and the model loops super tight. The model sees a lot of centrifugal force in such a maneuver and we call it G load as in Gravity load. Dive a model and then yank the stick back hard and during the pullup the model can easily see it's apparent weight increase by as much as 10 or more times it's normal weight. The same thing happens in tight turns.

The wing can only deliver so much lift. If you try to get more from it during these high G maneuvers and the model is heavy the wing cannot offer engough lift and the model can stall even though it's speed is quite fast at the time. You just asked the wing to do too much during the high G load maneuver. This sort of stall can often show up as a stall at a wingtip. If both stall equallly and at the same time the model just gets draggy. But if the wing tips are made slightly differently it means one or the other may stall first. If that happens the model can snap roll very violently. Making sure the wing loading is light helps avoid this problem by delaying the effect to a point where the model cannot hope to turn tightly engough to reach it. And since we like small models to turn tightly it's that much more important to make sure they are light enough so that the wing loading is low enough to let it turn this tightly without causing problems.

With 160 to 180 you'll want to keep it down to 10 to 13 ounces total weight. At that it'll fly nicely but it's still going to be a hotrod with or without power. At 10 oz it'll glide in for nice landings. At 13 it'll be a bit faster, sinkier and "arrive" more so than lightly touching down. At 16 oz it would glide like a greased manhole cover and land like a cast iron frisbee.

hasallthenamesbeentaken

Hi guys. I spend more time watching than writing replies. I love your angle on wingloading Bruce! I maidened a Simple Series Texan over the weekend. It flies not too bad at 15oz. Power is Cox .049 twin port plastic backed jobbie. The box states the wing area as 188 square inch. I worked it out at 181......It loops if one buid up enough speed. Glide is flat but not too fast. LynnS hope you are reading this, I stuggle to get onto the ACE SS forum.

Marius
South Africa

hello123

When I went to the store I couldn't find a P-47D Thunderbolt 30.25inch wingspan[sm=punching.gif], so I just purchased a Guillows Junkers Ju 87B Stuka 34.5inch wingspan. I've already purchased a two channel radio, .049, servos,etc.. The kit has no ailerons just dive flaps, 144 sq. in. of wing area, 2.875 inches of dehidral for 12.75 inch of wing (both sides) ,etc....

I was wondering if it has enough dehidral for just rudder and elevator and could I omit the dive flaps and dive brakes? [sm=confused.gif]

mclintock

My Feedback: (3)

On another forum site i found a thread that has many 1/2a guillows conversions, including a stuka..

I hope the rcu filterbot lets this happen--
[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1638772&postcount=96]guillows stuka with cox[/link]

Ragwing

My Feedback: (2)

Hello 123

Sounds like a fun project! If you want my two cents, I'd try to build it really light-say 8-10 oz, and go with a TD .020. It has almost the same power as a reed .049 but far less weight, and it is easier to conceal. It will haul around a 30" model without trouble-if it is light. Good luck, and post pictures!

Derek

fastbanana

I converted a 28'' Guillows spit a few years ago.
The hardest thing was to do was to change the wing incidence.
The plane flew with its tail down. I packed some 1/16 balsa on
top of the leading edge in the fuz in order to lower the incidence.
Then it flew just great. I gave the cox 0.49 Bee a rich setting and flew the plane
low to the deck for ages and ages. I even covered it with silver litespan and
painted it with enamels. After a while the silver came through in places and it
looked quite authentic. No ailerons, just rudder and elevator.

Regards,

Jaime

hello123

I was wondering if I could omit the dive flaps and dive brakes?

mclintock

My Feedback: (3)

If you want a small jug see the hobby hangar one..
[link=http://www.hobbyhangar.com/test/kits.htm]hobby hangar[/link]

in the guillows, two or three channels tops will be all you can cram, but in the bigger hobbyhangar one maybe you really could have dive brakes! Dive bomb things with eggs etc..

Lynn S

hello123,
The way most of us have learned about building planes is to build it and see what happens when you try to fly it. The plane you picked is not a typical r/c plane so you are more or less on your own to see IF it will fly at all. As most have stated, you would be better off to spend your time on a real r/c model. At least you will know it can fly if built correctly.
So back to your question.....if the flaps are needed for lift put them on, if not I would leave them off, they will act like ailerons. Or you could put them on and see what happens.
There was a post by a builder who built an electric Stuka. You can do a search on Stuka and see if it shows up. He would be your best source for information.

hello123

I know for a fact that guillow planes fly. I've flown a spirit of st.louis 34.5 inch wingspan in free flight and it flies great (it's the only plane I've flown), the hard part is the rc conversion. I also believe that the dive flaps were used as ailerons so I will omit them.

hello123

i'm closed to finishing my model and was wondering is there any way to connect the servos to the rudder and elevator without using a push rod? can nylon lines (the ones in the kit for u-control) be used?