Japanman

Hi,
I have been searching for a good place to order litespan from- I want to get some in silver for my MiG- and other small stuff.
Hobby lobby has it but they want to charge me $8 handling and the actual postage costs(probably another $8) ... $16 for $16 worth of litespan and balsaloc..

Anyone know of a better source?

J.M

mclintock

My Feedback: (3)

I don't know if they are better or worse, expense-wise but peck-polymers.com does list litespan and balsa-loc on their site..

There is a note under the balsa loc that says it ships ground only.. so maybe for next season the boat will get to you if you order now..[]

fastbanana

The best place to find light materials for any small planes is:

www.samsmodels.demon.co.uk

Tel. 00 44 1763 287 606 or Fax 789

Japanman

Thanks for the link- tons of neat stuff there. I`ll email them and see what they`ll send it for.

P.S If I order, it will be by fax- I see their credit card order area is not secure.

J.M

CoosBayLumber

My Feedback: (1)

Many of us using LiteSpan do not use the fluid Balsa-Loc. Instead we use a common Elmer's glue stick. Just mark on two layers, then begin applying the fabric.

Litespan also seems to have a grain, and thus will shrink a bit more going with the grain instead of counter to it. The silver/aluminum does not seem to shrink as much as the colored styles. It also cannot be reversed side for side.

You may want to consider Nelson Litefilm. It is by same manufacturer, but does not require adheasive be applied first, and shrinks just a bit more.


Wm.

Japanman

Do you mean the standard P.V.A white glue in a bottle?
I have often wondered about ulternatives.

Is nelson lite film a fabric like material like litespan or a plastic film based product?

J.M

P.S in my experience the white does not shrink as much as the other colors too. But I find the stuff just such a dream to put on (touch wood) that I seldom need a lot of shinkage to get it tight.

I have not used the silver though.

Andrew

JM --

He's referring to the semi-solid stick glue that comes in an extending tube similar to chapstick. Several companies manufacture it - Avery, Elmers, UHU. Here is a [link=http://www.reuels.com/reuels/product20442.html]link to a UHU stick. [/link] UHU is colored, usually purple or blue -- dries clear when dry.

the "other" Andrew

DesignMan

Do you apply the glue and let it dry then iron on the covering? Or do you have to apply it and cover simultaneously?

How fuel proof is the glue, or do you post-seal the edges?

Tell more, please!!! []

DesignMan

Oh yes, I think Koverlite is the same stuff. Available through both Hobby People and Tower. At least I can't tell the difference.

Japanman

Just did a search of hobby p. and tower and all I could find was 'coverite' which seems to be a film product rather than fibrous like litespan.

J.M

DesignMan

Oops, that is Coverlite, not Koverlite. And Hobby People does list it, I just checked.

Sorry []

Japanman

Found it!

Thanks Design man.

J.M

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Question:

Does Litespan/Coverlite shrink with heat, water, or a combination thereof? I have done ultracote, solite/litefilm, and dope & tissue (guillows FF models), and I'm wondering which method litespan is most similar to, as I have acquired several packs of it and would like to try it on my next balsa model.

DesignMan

It is a heat shrink material, and does have an active "grain" like silkspan or tissue.

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks, Larry. I'm guessing it's much more important to get the wrinkles out as much as possible before sealing this material as compared to litefilm, eh?

DesignMan

Actually, all those products are more "stretch on" than "shrink" if you want a good job that won't wrinkle in the sun.

See Faye Stilley's books on how to apply film if you want to get it right. MAN handles them.

Japanman

I find litespan a real pleasure to apply- but like tissue if you could only water shrink it, it has limited shrink. My best results have always been from careful application and the using the lowest temp I can to shrink it. If you get it too hot it seems more prone to going loose again in of left in a hot car etc.
As Larry pointed out, it does have a very definate grain along which it is much stronger, and also shrinks more. this is great for ribbed wings with no balsa skin on the LE as the ribs don`t show through as much.

I also like the `feel` of it- like tissue- and it is fuel proof as is- it is great stuff- so light for our little planes.

J.M

DesignMan

I still would like more detailed information on using the glue stick to apply Litespan.

1. Do you coat both the wood and the film?

2. Do you then iron on the film or do you have to apply it while the glue is still sticky?

3. Is the glue fuelproof, or do you have to seal the edges after application?

Thanks,

Time Pilot

DesignMan,

I'm trying to find out some of the same thing. From what I've discovered so far, Balsaloc is a PVA glue. I found this on the Staples website:

Conros All Purpose Glue: (I don't know if this link will work for you or not)
http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/ca...l+Purpose+Glue

A ready-to- use polyvinyl acetate latex adhesive that provides a superior, high strength bond to wood, leather, fabric, paper, ceramics and non- porous surfaces such as styrofoam. Sets up rapidly and dries to a transparent tough bond that doesn't stain and is moisture resistant.

It comes in a liquid and a stick.

If it is used like Balsaloc, which I have read that it can be, then you would apply it, let it dry, and then use a low heat setting (I think that is around 90 - 100 degrees Celcius (195-210 F).

Whether you use the liquid or the stick, I would be tempted to only put it on the wood so that it would sink into the wood a bit to 'deepen the bond.' If I used the liquie, depending on how it went on, I might be tempted to use two light coats.

It is easy to test for fuelproofness: glue a bit of litespan on a piece of wood and coat with fuel, no? I'm trying to find something to glue on Holographic Wrapping Tissue on to an electric frame. I may try some contact cement too. I see Staples has it in some kind of a stick now too.

Japanman

Hi Time pilot,
I tried some P.V.A glue that I got here in Japan- I tried two types. the first was a fast setting but 'true' P.V.A. I spread on one coat with my finger to a sheet of paper, and after it was completely dry (an hour later) I ironed it onto another sheet of paper. IT stuck like crazy!

The second glue was a cross linking poly alphatic 'P.V.A'- this produced absoultely no bond at all with the same test.

I have my doubts about the fuel proofness of normal P.V.A as it will soften in water- and ethanol is a stronger solvent so I imagine it will eat it alive. We`ll see though- I`ll test that too.

J.M

Time Pilot

Japanman,

I did a bit of internet research and found out that Elmer's school glue is a PVA type of glue--Did not work at all for me so I'm off to the hardware store for some real PVA glue.

Good to know that it works though, thanks!

boberos

As a good substitute for Balsaloc, I use 'Weldbond' adhesive. Available in most hardware stores & is heat activated.
It goes on white , then dries clear.
I apply it on wood , then a light coat on the litespan or aerospan where it will touch the wood frame. Let dry, then stick it with heat sealing iron.

Good luck,
Bob G

Japanman

I　just thought I`d put in a little punt for Sams models- while they do not have a secure (that I can tell ) site to do credit card orders from, it is easy enough to fax an order through.
Just don`T call them in the middle of the night like I did- Ithink the phone is re-directed to the owners house... "just checking the fax number sorry[]" I said... (sorry Sam, if your out there)

As a comparison most U.S sites have litespan or coverlite for about U.S$4.50.. Sams has it for GBP1.44- thats about half the price. When I emailed them about postage it worked out to about U.S$8 for airmail for a jar of balsaloc (yes, it`s o.k to airmail as it`s waterbased) and a couple of sheets of litespan.- thats very reasonable-

Looks good... see how long it takes to get to Japan from the U.K

J.M