ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

I plan to put this one together. I would apreciate all suggestions regarding coverins (tissue not durable..) I I will put Hitec HS55's on rudder,elevator and throttle or speed control if electric

Deadstik

My Feedback: (8)

Richard,

Before you throw the brush away on tissue/dope..I think you need to do a bit more research. I've covered a LOT of planes in silkspan and dope and they are not only lighter than any iron on.. but add an incredible amount of strength. I've got one of these kits (maybe two) stuffed back in my hangar...but when I build one.. it will be covered w/silkspan....check into it !!! Even the directions that Comet gives on the plans aren't half bad.....


Dan

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Thanks Dead stick-- I've done one or two models with dope and tissue,silkspan and of course silk. With regard to the inital Fues. build up 1/8 balsa square stock is shown. I wonder if this could be improved on by substituting 1/8 square spruce for balsa during construction of the 2 basic Fues. sides. It makes sense to me since this is a conversion to E-power most likely and as posted on an earlier thread the structure per plans is rather flimsey .

john 8750

I would sheet a lot of the structures with 1/16 sheet over the standard balsa frame. Use cap strips on the wings. Beef up the landing gear. Be careful and dont add to much extra weight.
Try a dual IPS motor with 5.6:1 gears and a 9070 prop, or a higher gear ratio and larger prop.
I like lithiums so about a 2 cell 1200 ma. E-Tech would do.
Get some modern silk span. Dont go with the paper in the kit. Dope with a 50/50 mix of thinner.
Dont forget to install a steerable tail wheel.
Sounds like much fun. Give us the progress reports.

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

John-Can you give me more spefics on the motor and prop? All I know is engines.. Is there a manufacturer web site or magazine ad for the motor and propeller of your suggestion and where do we get silkspan these days., Thanks bunches!

mclintock

My Feedback: (3)

you may also wish to read about tissue (or silk or silkspan) over mylar covering-
I have one of these comet giants as well as the similar taylorcraft I have yet to build..
Here is a link about the tissue over mylar--
[link=http://www.stringwell.freeserve.co.uk/Covering.htm]tissue over mylar[/link]

Here's a page of gws drives with a link on it showing data..


[link=http://www.buygws.com/dualips.htm]buygws.com[/link]

Also a common wattage 280 or 370 geardrive might do to fly these things too..

Another scheme I had was to buy a hobbylobby miss stick and use it as a guide in beefing up and powering the similar-sized comets..

[link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/miss-stik.htm]miss stick[/link]

BMatthews

If you're going electric on what is supposed to be a rubber model I strongly support the 1/8 sq spruce for the main longerons, similar sized wood for wing spars and making the struts functional so you can keep the spar wood light.

56 inch span is quite big and even built light to keep the weight to 20 to 24'ish ounces I suspect a speed 400 on gears will be needed. It MAY fly with the same style as the original with a GWS EPS350 or so. Perhaps with a 3S Li-poly and suitable prop to keep the current to 7 or 8 amps max? The 3S pack should offer up the watts needed for that combo.

That's about the lot for my parkflyer motor knowledge. If you want more then drop by the Electric Universe.

For glow an 061RC would be fine if the weight is kept to 20'ish. It won't handle stronger winds well at that size and weight though. It'll sure catch thermals easy however.

Andrew

[link=http://www.sigmfg.com]SIG Manufacturing[/link], [link=http://www.brodak.com]BRODAK[/link] and [link=http://www.towerhobbies.com]Tower Hobbies [/link] all carry silkspan. Tower only sells in large quantities. SIG and Brodak are your best bet, although you may have to buy more than you want from SIG. I have used BRODAK several times and have been pleased with the service.

fritzke

My Feedback: (1)

I have an old OLD issue of Model Aviation (70's ??) that shows one of these Comets converted to CO2 indoor R/C with
a Cannon radio. First published instance of indoor R/C aircraft THAT I can think of.
My Dad flew one (much modified) with a Cox Medallion 09 R/C and rudder/elevator.
I'm pretty sure it is still in the pile of planes in the attic.
I agree with DB, judicous use of spruce (or basswood) and a geared speed 400 should fly it nicely.

Dave

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Thanks for all the replys!
Richard McFarland AMA52920

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

I copied the plans and print wood and the complete kit appears or will appear on AMA/RCU+Ebay

glmmeyers

I like lite-span or mica-film for conversion to rc models like the Aeronica .

I pay you $15.00 for a Kinko's 100% sized photocopy of the plans ? You should make a photocopy for building anyway to preserve the original. Kinko's can even send me the plans COD

Please advise

Gemstone

fla_g8tor

I built the Comet Taylorcraft in 1981 as a rubber powered model, and converted it last year to electric. I am using a GWS 350 with D gearing, swinging a 12 x 6 APC prop. I use a castle creations speed control and an 1100 mah 7.4 v li-poly. All up weight is 24 oz. I had to fiberglass the cowl, which had previously been sheeted with 1/32 balsa, which had cracked very much over the years. 4 hs-55 servos, 1 in each wing so I can remove the wings, one for rudder, one for elevator. I get 10-15 min flights. For covering I used Litespan. It is fabric looking, very light and applies easily, you just have to use a balsa adhesive.[img][/img]
Here are a couple of pics. The color scheme is base on the real one owned by a friend of mine.

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

That is real nice I for one appreciate the work you put into it How about a little more on the type paint you used and WHETHER you did the initial frame up using *Comets supplied hard balsa liongerons----- My late Father had a very similar painted Talorcraft hangared at the "old" Hyde Field in Clinton Maryland; I flew it and it was better than a J-3 insome aspects but this T Crafts 'dash board' does not accommodate a 6' person KNEES to well!! I remember my knee caps to the dash/instrument panel applying full power some rudder of course and so much 'forward pressure,'on the stick I was SURE the prop would strike the runway as we got ready to rotate..He sold it in 74 I think. Again nice job and gives me the "clear the bench feeling"[8D]

zoomzoooie

I'd like to know if anyone has used the mylar/tissue/dope method using other plastic covering like Solite. How would the dope effect the Solite and will the tissue stick just as good? If so then using Solite would be less of a fuss then using mylar and might be the thing for me to try for my scale projects.

ZZ

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Can you all give us some advisement on this?

[sm=confused.gif]

mclintock

My Feedback: (3)

One thing that may help of someone chimes in with any info on substituting mylar in the mylar/tissue method with iron-on film is to know that 1 mil = 25 microns.
I find much of the info about the mylar/tissue method on the web discusses mylar in 5 or 10 micron thickness, where things over here in the barley-seed based system land use mils.

I wonder how using the laminating film (1.5 mil) with tissue over would work. If for no other reason than it being easier to paint tissue probably.. I got no experience with laminating films yet.

In any case here is a sort of related link- where some iron-on mylar is listed with links to instruction.

[link=http://www.modelresearchlabs.com/products.htm]modelresearchlabs[/link]

zoomzoooie

Isn't laminating film made of mylar? I have no experience with it either because I wanted an authentic finish for scale projects.
ZZ

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Hi,
What is Solite and where can we get it.


Every time I maneuver from my shop, to my mini van, to the field with the "big ones' I find my self thinking 'what fun to be had with the small ones when I was a much younger kid in the early to mid 1960's. You know guys and GALS: I'ts just a small matter of time before I build one. Among other Comet plans and kits,I have a Comet 20" span Grumman F6-f that looks like it will be nice for micro R/C I just picked up 2 sheets of dark Navy Blue tissue. Another question..back when I used Testors wood glue and liked the results. Maybe I will post this question but what are you all using as an adhesive these days to construct these little gems?

zoomzoooie

Here is a link with info on Solite.

http://rcgroups.com/links/index.php?...at=201&id=4227

Coverite has Coverlite which is a synthetic iron on covering much like tissue but stronger.

ZZ