D Bronk

Nice pics Andrew.I just came in here to look for a drawing.you guys have a great idea going here for a plans thread, for beginners, and intermediates.I`ll be back later on this eve...D.B

D Bronk

BIPE I hate to stay on this topic but there is another option to the control rod thing. I forgot that ,I also have .5 mm.plastic coated stainless braided line , fishing leader, type material.I`m about to make the pushrods .but was considering a pull/pull type of system.I thought I would ask what you thought of that .I know about the issue with reciever interferance,but would that still apply to this?,It may be the lightest alternative yet,I also have the crimps on hand,too . Pic shows the coil, beside the 0.035" music wire,inside the ny-rod tube....D.B.

Bipe Flyer

Pull-pull is is very light and allows very little slop. I have it on a couple of planes and I really like it. It isn't usually something that is needed for a trainer and it can be a little bit fiddly to set up, but if you want to try it, then go for it. Dubro makes micro pull-pull system. http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...d=DUB846/101.0

D Bronk

I seen your BI-PLANE,a few minutes ago real nice!! Back to the pull-pull .You haven`t had problems with interferance then?.I think I would like to do this for the rudder as well.D.B.

Bipe Flyer

Pull-pull wires are used all the time without interference. I've heard of people having interference from a metal or carbon fibre pushrods, but I've never actually seen it. Just use a good receiver and don't run your antenna wire right next to the wires. On a plane this size you could even use some strong fishing line.

D Bronk

PERFECT,perfect ,PERFECT.I`m going this route and not looking back.I`ve got an idea, that will be lighter, and cheaper than the DU BRO parts,you linked me too..I think you`ll like it I`ll put pictures up ,of a sample,in a while,once I dig up the stuff I`ll need ..D.B.

SGC

For some reason pull/pull cables give less problems than steel rods or carbon fiber , but as stated the antenna needs to be away from them. Pull/pull is most commonly used in OT models and they are quite often flown at extreme ranges without problems. I only use pull/pull in my OT models and have it in my SlowPoke20 as well( trying to keep the tail light) OffT-Re the Slowpoke20 I added 20mm to the nose to move the motor forwards and relocated the RC gear forwards to from the plan to get the CG correct without the mandatory 4-6oz's of balast in the nose, I use an Irvine25FSR (old 85 model)
Stewart

D Bronk

Here`s my DEMONSTRATION set up..The more feed back, I`m getting, the more I`m liking this system.I want to use a threaded rod end@ the servo with a clevis at that end.and a simple snap clip hook on the other.I`ll probably end up drilling a very small hole through the rod end then loop the cable and crimp.The threaded rod can not rotate untill the clip is removed from the horn and actually spun by hand,That is how I think this will be user friendly for adjustments.For a reciever I have a Futaba FP-R127DF dual conversion..AT least with these heavier servos I can use them to my advantage,by lengthining and shortening the cables to help with the balance.and probably use a bit of NY_ROD to ensure a good route AWAY from the cables for the antenae.. D.B.

D Bronk

A slight change, going to trade 2 screws, for two plastic, nuts.. by installing horns, 1 above the other..Instead of 1 on each side of my center line shown above..D.B.

Cowboy88

Hi guys,

Pull-pull cabling has been known to cause rfi in many large planes. However, rfi has become less of an issue with newer radios. Unless you run metal to metal contact on a pull-pull system or run the antena close to te cabling or embedded in the airframe, you will likely have little <or no> problems.

However, there is another way to use p/p systems on small airframes. You will find the a 20-30LB test monofiliment fishing line will work well and provide only a tiny bit of weight. It also works well for rigging on small planes. However, the sun light seems to eat away at rigging lines over time. I have not had this happen with internal cabling.

P/P systems are not typically used on trainers because they require more skill to install and tension properly.


Cowboy88

D Bronk

The horns are plastic ,and ,so are the servo arms..WILL I be in for trouble ??[X(]

Cowboy88

Hi D,

I just re-read my post and realized the root of your question was that I missed typing a word. I meant to say that if you have any metal to metal contact on moving parts you may have problems. The metal to metal contact produces static electrical noise. As long as you have no metal to metal contact on moving parts ( ie --Manually Fix-- IE Ir OE E I e i Ice Ike Ive ice ire IA Ia Io ii Lie die fie hie lie pie tie vie ID IL IN IQ IT IV In It id if in is it iv ix Be Ce DE De Fe GE Ge He Le ME Me NE Ne PE Re SE Se Te Xe be he me re we ye . steel horns and steel clevises) you will have no trouble. If you even do build an model where metal to metal contact is required, simply solder a short piece of stranded copper wire to connect each piece and your noise issue will go away. You can also connect the cabling to the receiver's ground and reduce the noise caused by static noise and signal reflection from the metal objects.

Sorry for the confusion.

Cowboy88

D Bronk

Phew!! that grounding info is something I didn`t know ..I`ll try to remember that ..Thanks Cowboy .DAVE B.

D Bronk

Well I`m about to try, Bipes method of covering .HingelessGoing to do the verticle,first.got som pics again..BIPE mad me a drawing to paint..I`m asking the pros which color where for best visibility .With the warbirds ,I have noproblem.LOOK at the picture and make the plane look like that.. THIS is differant though.It needs to be seen well by my nephews...I`M welcoming suggestions. I would use the microsoft paint,but if I misuse the colors and it`s not visible when it`s upstairs.I`ve only wasted my time and materials...I`ve adjusted the colors of the coverings to appear correct on my screen so it`s reasonably close enough for this purpose..I`ll find that drawing and move it forward to here so maybe it can be used by folks to help me out again Thanks... DAVE mainly concerned with vert.+ horiz.at the moment

Bipe Flyer

I find that a predominantly red and white, or yellow and black colour scheme gives good visibility. Black and white, or blue and white are more difficult to see. You want something that is highly visible on both sunny and cloudy days. Make the top different from the bottom to help with orientation.

If you're using the colours shown there, make it mostly red and white with blue accents. The checkers will look nice on the ground, but they don't usually stand out that well in the air, so use them for decoration more than visibility.

A guy in our club has a Kadet done in the Snowbirds colour scheme; it looks really nice.

Bipe Flyer

This is just a quick doodle, but it would give good visibility and you could use the checkerboard on the bottom of the wing. You could do the windows in blue or black.

D Bronk

I forgot to move that drawing in here

D Bronk

It`s kind of growing on me Bipe.So is all the bottom reversed from the top,,color wise? ..It kind of makes the plane ,BI-continentally ,,friendly If any one else wants to do a bit of art,please do..I also have some metalic silver , from a laser cut decal sheet for a full size truck ,I had decaled for a customer.Might be good for windows??

D Bronk

LADIES AND GENTLE MEN ,BOYs and girls!!! Introducing the newest SNOW BIRD.. CANADAS soon to be famous, the PUDGY BUDGIE., LST-740 X AMBASSADOR TO THE WORLD!!!!! thanks for the Kick in the right direction BIPER..D.B.

Bipe Flyer

That looks good. There's no mistaking top from bottom.

I just thought of something. Have you ever flown RC before? If not, is there anyone who can assist you in the beginning?

D Bronk

OUCH.!![] I guess,I`m asking for too much advice, for these DINKY little Toys ..[X(] sorry

Bipe Flyer

I'm not sure I understand. I didn't mean anything offensive by that. I was just wondering if you've ever flown before. You should have someone who knows how to fly, trim out the plane and assist you in learning.

D Bronk

ANDREW I owe You ,an apoligie .I can`t leave this as is..I took a look at myself yesterday ,and slept on it .,and have to tell you this ..It `s not what you asked me about R/c flying that upset me ,but my building inabilities,that would lead to a question like that.I know now that ,it was not your question so much ,as the fact that I`ve been making mistakes all along with this build.I had to think why you would ask me that ,and with the simple questions, and silly errors,I`ve made ,it probably would make anyone wonder..All my building experiance is out of a box,you know ,seperate the parts and follow the manual ,and there`s a plane lurking in there,somewhere.These errors I`ve been making all along, have made me question my own abilities .At this point my building confidece is, very,very, little(gone).I really have ,no experiance with these"dinky little toys",their engines,set-ups,and construction....Your question only made me realize ,my extremely limited knowledge, with the 1/2A aircraft..Without your help and from the others here in RCU.I would most likely have made this trainer into a submarine.YOUR question was justified, and made with concern ,for us over here..I regret that I didn`t respond further to you yesterday.I`m also sorry, if I made you feel bad...ANDREW,my "WAKE up call" was hard for me to swallow,and I am TRULY sorry for leaving this hang, till now.THIS is NOT your fault at all..I just needed to give myself a reality check,and figure out what was wrong with this picture.I guess I`m trying to say that ,I`m upset with myself,and not YOU.I`m TRULY SORRY. ANDREW,this is my fault and not yours...I`m posting this here,because I think it`s the right place for it. SINCERLY ,DAVE B.

D Bronk

I did this yesterday while,soul searching..D.B.

Bipe Flyer

I'm relieved, but I don't think that there's anything wrong with your building skills. Any mistakes made were due to lack of documentation, but that is being rectified as we go along. I assumed that because you were building a trainer, you hadn't flown before, forgetting that this is for your nephews to learn on.

I hope that you'll find scratch building rewarding enough to build a few more and even start designing your own. We have an informal little contest starting every January that allows people to hone their designing/scratch building skills. You can check it out at http://www.donatelli.net/contest