Bipe Flyer

With all those lasers I was exepecting to see a Stormtrooper in one of the pictures.

I see that your laser is a Bushell, but what model?

D Bronk

whatever you do; DON`T,,,,, LOOK ,,,,,,DIRECTLY... INTO,,,,,, THE LIGHT.!!!!!!!!!! BUSHNELL model:82897. .3 function,2 pivots.

I think, I accidently figured out, how to make this thing STUN..WHAT`s the date today anyway??? ..AM I, the only stunned one, to use this type of thing.???

D Bronk

What do you folks think, about me using a 3/16" aluminum tube, for the wing hold down,instead of a wooden dowel,it`s probably lighter...D.B.

D Bronk

Is this permissable???anybody

Bipe Flyer

The Norvel engines draw well, so you can move it back and down a bit with no problems.

D Bronk

..how about this,..??..

For a servo tray .1/8 lite-ply,ok??

Bipe Flyer

I'd be worried the aluminum tube bending, but test it and see if it holds up. Maybe jam a balsa stick inside the tube and use a couple of drops of thin CA.

1/8" light ply is fine for the servo tray.

D Bronk

Here`s the weather we got today,started @ 10:00 am,and still going,only DEPUTY likes it..GOING to need some accessories for the trainer...QUESS what I need plans for..I have some ideas ,but thought ,I would see what you folks, had up your sleeves.. I think I`ve got my, "Challange" plane, decided on too...

vauxhall

Hi D Bronk, you could fly control line in your front yard if the bears weren't around. I'm jealous
......John

D Bronk

THE Doctor says` I can`t go back to work for a year.[] Trade you places for a while Vauxhaul..THE bears aren`t scared of engines either.They were coming within 100 yards(300 feet) ,while breaking in a babe bee 0.049..I think they`ve gone for their winter sleep now, and won`t see them till ,spring time again..I was asking for plans for Skis in the last post but better make it snow shoes,now.Take a look at Deputy(dawg).That animal, LOVES -32 degrees Celsius.,and lays in the snow all day long.I`ll bring him in the house and 1/2 hour later, he wants "OUT"!!!....Some sort of CESSNA CARGO plane crashed on a city street early this morning(pilot dead).I don`t know all the details yet.. [].HERE`s what I woke up to this morning[X(] SO the 1/2A Trainer, needs some WINTER WEAR any suggestions???I seen Floats for it in the thread somewhere ,but I won`t need those, till SPRING when this Crud melts[:@]DAVE B.

Cowboy88

Hi D Bronk,

I have had good success using floats on the snow. Just remove any water rudders. They work best in loose powder but I have even used them on ice and frozen snow. Skies work best on packed snow and if large enough, they can be used on loose snow.

I make my own skies from warping and laminating 3 sheets of 1/16 bass wood. Figure around 6.5-8 sq inches of area per pound. I use a hard maple block mounted to the ski and drilled at the top to mount the lg leg into using wheel colars. Use rubber or a rubber band to hold the nose of the ski up at about a 15 degree angle and use a stop string on the rear to keep it from inclining more than 15 degress. I know one guy in the area who actually points the nose of his skies down about 5 degress. If you do this you must have a good flare on landing to keep them from digging in. But he claims the planes handle better that way...

I have not used this on 1/2A sized planes as I usually remove the lg from them and belly land them in the snow. If you can find 1/32 bass or maybe use 1/32 ply you can make your own skies. Unlike floats, I have found that the shape of the skies does not seem to have much impact on performance. Size does however. The larger the ski, the better it moves on the surface but, the more drag they indice in the air.


Hope this helps...

D Bronk

HI Cowboy; I was wondering what happened to you ..Thanks for the tips..It gives me something to ponder on..NEVER tried flying in the snow ,but going to give it a try,this year, GOT about 6 months of this white stuff.That little Norvel should ,go real good, due to the air being more dense,in the cold ..I`ll just to tune it for the days conditions,to keep from leaning out ,to much,and frying her..BEING winter, I wondering, if the engine can be cooled ,too much..I also wonder about condensation ,when bringing, the radio and the rest of the electrics inside ,after being outside,in the cold.Probably won`t try to fly lower than -15 degrees celsius..I would hate to wreck this stuff due to corrosion DAVE.B.

Cowboy88

Hi D,

I have flown in -24F but didn't enjoy it much. I couldn't stay warn... My experience has been that I have not had any problems with the electronics however, the most critical thing is to slowly warm yor electronics backup. The most likely failure will be due to the copper traces on the PC board cracking from extreme tempature changes. When the air is that cold there is very little or no moisture in it so condensation is not usually an issue.

As for those little engines, even the my 40's and 60's have dificulty in sevre cold conditions. Use a little higher nitro and either one of those military or first aid hot packs to pre-warm the engines before flight. I have a 500 watt inverter in my truck to use with AC equipment and using this with a heating pad works well to pre-warn the engins as well.

In near freezing weather a little higher nitro seems to work fine. Also, keep yor fule as warm as possible. This will help to aid in starting the engine.

Flying in the snow is great unless the wind blows. Things get really cold then...

D Bronk

COWboy I`m mainly worried about, when the electronics come back inside, thats when I think the condesation will happen..

Cowboy88

Hi D,

I have a workshop all my stuff goes into after flying. My work shop doesn't have a humidifier so I can't comment on what would happen if you took the radio inside where the air might be humidified. But if you are really concerned, get a box large enough to place your radio gear in and place silica beads in the box with the gear. The silica will remove the moisture from the air and any on the radio. If you can't find silica beads you could use diatomaceous earth (raw silica). You can often find that at pool supply stores. Also, if you have a dehumidifier you could use that in a small room where you store your radio gear.

If you do get any radio gear wet, turn it off, disconnect the battery, and find some de-ionized water to wash it with. Then air dry. Get this done with-in a day or so or you may have corrosion issues. This is the proper way to clean any contaminated electronic circuitry.

Again, remember that sudden or extreme temperature changes are very hard on electronics. Older electronics had larger copper traces and handled the extremes better. The new circuit boards with tiny copper traces can be easily damaged by temperature changes. This is why expensive or mission critical computer systems are often placed in climate controlled rooms. So protect against rapid temperature changes.

Hope this helps

D Bronk

http://media.putfile.com/aworkingtail

. Sort of got the tail operating useing plain ol`fishing line to do a test run,and just held servo tray in place to see what happens.I don`t think I`ll use pushrods, to often anymore..I can see these large servos being quite an extra load for this little girl to carry around. Going to see, if I can`t spring, for the smaller ones throughout.If I cant downsize right away, I`ll make this servo tray easily removeable so I can update later.....I`ve got the Futaba NR-4RB battery..Is this the type, you folks normally run as an on board battery, as far as weight and size is concerned??

Bipe Flyer

I currently run a 280mAh NiMh pack, but I've used a lot of 270mAh Nicads in 1/2A. The Futaba NR-4RB is a 1000mAh, 4.2oz pack isn't it?

Check out these links.
http://www.servocity.com/html/4_8v_2...d_battery.html
http://radicalrc.secure-mall.com/sho...19&cart=357586
http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-81_micro.html
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUZ92&P=7

D Bronk

YEs as you described.Do you think I`m going to have too much weight with this pack.??I`m going to try and pick up the remaining servos,and can`t afford much more at this point.

Bipe Flyer

Maybe go with the 270mAh NiCad pack if you can. You'll save 2.6oz You should be able to find small 4 cell NiCad packs for cordless phones at London Drugs or Radio Shack/"The Source" or whatever they call themselves now.


Check out the prices at Great Hobbies. Lately, they've been selling servos for less in Canadian dollars than you can get them in the US.

D Bronk

You right about those servos Andrew Great HOBBIES is charging $18.00 as opposed to $25.00 locally.I checked a shop ,that, I usually don`t use, and they wanted $48.00 all these prices are for the HS-81 micro servo..I`m shocked about the mark-up on this stuff,IT`s Criminal[:@].YOU gave me an idea for a battery source too.We have a surplus store in WPG.called Princess AUTO.THEY have all kinds of batteries there and pretty cheap too..I couldn`t get to the City like I hoped so .It`ll have to wait till after TURKEY DAYDAVE B.

Bipe Flyer

We have Princess Auto here too. I never thought of checking there for batteries.

Have a good Thanksgiving.

D Bronk

Messing around with the trainer today.MODIFIED the Du-Bro aileron linkages,by making,and,useing the brass ends like on the plans.BUT I`m not happy with the linkage, holding block, for the trailing edge of the wing..I think I can make up something better by building up the part useing a hollow balsa core and sheeting the top and bottom useing 1/32" ply.I think it would be stronger, than my carved block is too,.Since the wing has dehidral, should the holding block, match that as well ,or should I make it flat again??ANY of you experienced Guys` can answer.I have a feeling BIPE ,is spending the day ,Sharpening his Turkey carving knife..BUT then,again,Maybe, he has a modified 1/2A engine,mounted on a knife handle, and just makes Turkey salad ,out of the bird.. Or do you just take the wing off the closest plane,hold the fuse in one hand,and operate the transmiter with the other,for the more delicate slicing....I sure would like the plans for the KNIFE though..ANDREW; would you mind, SHARING that with Us??LMAO... DAVE B.

Bipe Flyer

The block should match the wing dihedral so that the torque rods are aligned with the wing correctly. I would just continue with the block the way it is and then glue a piece of 1/64" ply over the block and a portion of the trailing edge of the wing. This will not only keep the block secure, but it will also prevent the elastics from marring the wing. You should be able to do it with a single piece of ply and bend it to conform to the dihedral. Your idea should work too.

Your description of the turkey cutter reminds me of the commercial for the NHL being back where a woman is cutting a tomato with a hockey skate and Gretzky is in her kitchen giving her a dirty look.[sm=lol.gif] Hmmm, is NHL a dirty word in Winnipeg?

D Bronk

No you can say NHL,Idon`t really follow hockey, untill the play-off finals..You know ,when they play,for the "GREY CUP"..We got the Manitoba MOOSE`s .I think, They`re the "farm" team, that ,Grows, the hockey players ,for the Vancouver CANUCKS....

So you think that carved,Hunk @ $4it, will do..I don`t know, I really thought it looks, 2nd rate,and would just make a bit nicer one.SINCE I`m going for the servos,I think, I`m going to make the ply job ..I`ll save the pics of the balsa block, and take some of the built up one also.

Another question for you is,On the top of the fuse does the wing rest right on the 3/16" sheet sides . Or do I need to, re-inforce the edge with Tri stock,to make a ledge,on the inside edge,between the dowels ??.I`m going to use wood dowels, there and not the aluminum tube,idea.i`m not certain it`s strong enough......Thanks .. DAVE B.

Bipe Flyer

LOL! I wasn't sure how popular the NHL was there since the Jets moved to Phoenix. Yeah, the Moose are the Canucks farm team. They're actually quite popular here. One of the coolest logos in sports, too.


My 1/2A stuff uses 3/32" sides and I often don't use doublers, but if I do I just use a piece of 3/32" X 1/2" balsa. I've attached a drawing with the doubler in blue. You can use tri-stock, just personal preference.