D Bronk

. I`ll swap addresses with you by P.M. I`ll need to send you a photo CD.,,ONCE I get this together,and finished...

YOUR knack for Ideas ,just gave me a knack attack, too.What do you think??? Going to take some more wallpapering ,but can do, with a bit of effort,,It`s built up ,from bottom CHROME ,BLUE and RED...this design thing, is a first for me too..Going to need to learn CAD soon, for that Contest WINNING plane.Or, do I stand a chance even,what, with you being an entrant ,and the judge.LOL.... Won`t be doing much on this today, got the nephews coming later this afternoon,and the S.E.5A, needs some attention..GOT to get it ready for the MOVIES

Bipe Flyer

Looks good! Much better than mine. What's the .05 for, 2005?

I'm not the judge of the contest. We all vote.

D Bronk

OPPS .Really not thinking now..That would have been, a disaster, if I melted that down on the plane.SORT of a permanent reminder to pay attention to what I`m doing..I`ll use the same script but,make it read ,LST.50, or maybe LST.500, as in 1/2" ,as in 1/2A,as in 500 thousandths of an inch.LST.500 has a nice ring.TAKING VOTES on that. Even though it has the 0.074"engine .I know,you did intend it, for slightly smaller mill..I kind of thought it would be a nice tribute ,to your friend ,and yourself, all at the same time .Without getting too mushy ,and as my Nephews say," Put`in da BLING,in BLING Bling"I could move the decimal ,on that badge too, for an 0.5,or even LST 1/2A ..think it over

D Bronk

moved message up, sorry!!

Bipe Flyer

I've never seen 1/2A expressed as .5, but I see where you got it. I guess .05 could work too as it is the largest displacement in the 1/2A class. LST .049 may be the most recognizeable or you could go with LST .074, since that's what's actually in it. 1/2A LST makes the most sense to me.

Cowboy88

Hi Guys,

Isn't an 049 0.049 cu. displacement. I think .05 would be best.... But that is just my 2 cents worth ;-)

D Bronk

YOU` re right ,I`m even confusing, myself now ...LOL....

Aussie Damo

i say use 1/2A LST becuse its the most universal and if change the engine you wont have the wrong badge (just thought i would add my 5 cents australian)

D Bronk

ONE thing I know for a fact ,is, That there will never be, a COX engine bolted into this plane,EVER!!! I`m quite turned off,[:'(] by the engine that I do have..AND recall now, it being the cause of a wrecked plane ,when I was a kid..I`ve come to the conclusion;That any deal on one of those engines ,,,, is NO DEAL at ALL....[:@]..I`m going to start doing some rigging this evening on the trainer..

mclintock

My Feedback: (3)

Hey don't knock all the cox engines, those super-cheap 'sure start' engines work better than any other sub-seven dollar engine I've tried! They really do start well anyway..
http://coxmodels.com/prodinfo.asp?number=008901

D Bronk

YES THOSE ones look better .PROBABLY no O-ring in `em..I just can`t believe the FAULTS, I have found in this $60.00 CDN. ,engine.. I just feel ripped off, for that kind of money.ESPECIALLY when I see stuff like you just showed me,up above.TECHNICALLY I still have ,to buy an o-ring to make it RIGHT..Oh well ,what do you do?You don`t know what you`re getting in the package ..You think it`s a quality piece of equipment that only requires a break-in..

Bipe Flyer

Ragwing brought one of the $7 sure starts to our fly in last year. He had it in a cute little SWR of his own design. I thought that it would be a rocket for sure, because the plane was so small. I was very surprised at how little power it had. Probably less than a TD .020. Still, it was only $7 and it did start easy.

D Bronk

If they are that under powered. I don`t know if an engine like that, would be able to pull the Trainer around.Do you.??I don`t know why they would have designed that cylinder with 2 slits per exh.port ,per side,, instead of 1 nice big port per side like they did with the engine I have from the 1970`s.It`s like an exhaust type throttle..The exhaust flow is slowed and so is the intake,and I would think that the over all power is going to fall to because of that..Anyways I don`t see an advantage for the design,more of a hinderance than anything.I`m almost considering putting that other cylinder I have on this engine,but I can`t use the matching piston and rod,Because the Ball socket is, loosey goosey..I just might do some constructive, destruction, to this engine If I can`t get it to BUZZ..We`ll see .I would like to leave it, factory stock ,though...











the

Cowboy88

Hey guys,

Don't knock those little Cox engines. While I will say that the new owners of Cox has not done justicte to the product line, if not for these little engines I doubt I could have ever gotten started in modling. I flew FF, CL, and even RC Babe Bee 0.049 powered modles until I was in high school and could afford the likes of K&B, OS MAX, and ROSSI engines.

If you design a plane correctly you can get little planes to fly well on the meager amount of power produced by these little engines. I flew 1/2A modle using Kraft brick radios and full size gear that is dwarfed by todays full size gear...

That is not to say we didn;t have our troubles. In fact I found most problems with the engines were caused by one of three issues.

1. Reed value has worn or been scratch and leaks. I wore out many reed values and kept a few in the flight box for feild replacement.... When Cox went to teflon reeds it was a major improvement from the old brass ones.

2. Dirt in the fule caused either plugging of the bleed or scratch the reed.

3. Glow plug damaged and won't stay warm. Running the high nitro fulls you need with these little engines is hard on the glow head element. There is not only a physical heating that takes place but also a chemical reaction between the nitro and the element material. High nitro fules tend to slowly change the element's ability to store heat over time. This can cause the engine to start, run fine for a while and then seem to change mixture or die...

Other less troublesome issues are:

4. Worn or cracked vinture' o-ring. Often caused by over tightening of the back plate.

5. Pluged intake screen.

6. back plate leakage (again cuased by over thightening...)

7. Front crank leakage (caused by too many hours or lots of dirty fule)

8. Glow head gasket leakage (caused by damaged head gasket or re-using an old gasket...)

9. Running a fule too low in Nitro content. These little engine disapate heat very quickly. Their heavy metal designs, excess cooling fins, and small size make it important to run a high nitro fule. Also, running a fule with real castor oil will help maintain compression. If you use synthetic fule add a couple ounces of castor oil to a gallon and you'll see a difference in performane after a dozen tans of so.

These engines are in my oppion an engineering marvel. They are simple, cheap, and if maintained well can run for years.

The newer engines with the plastic tanks due suffer from over tightening causing the back plate, tank, or both to deform resulting in seal failures. I don't like these engines as much as the metal tanked engines.

The engines without a tank can suffer the same problems and over tightening of the back plate is common with these little guys. Unfortunitly, once the back plates have been over tightened, they rarely regain their original shape.

As for performane, well, I flew many 2 & 3 channle 1/2A planes using the Cox Golden Bees, Black Widows, and of course, TEE DEEs. The reed valve engines take a bit of experience to maintian but once you've got it, you've got it!

Many years of mowing lawns during the week so I could purchase a new Top Filght, Sterling, CG, etc, 1/2A FF or CL kit on friday and fly it Saturday afternoon taught me quite a bit about these little motors. I have fond memories of them and still have one of two lying around. I use to have dozens of them...

If you are running these engines in cold weather, keep them warm for at least 30 minutes before starting. This will greatly improve starting and performance.


I hope this all runnin' off at the mouth helps someone make the most of their little beast....

Cowboy88

Hey folks,

I want applogies fer the poor typing.... Recal I'm one handed at the montment and disk-lexic to boot.... Bare with me awhile and I'll learn to use that spell checker....

rszanti

New to this thread. Looks like this might be a good project for a winter build. But I can't find the plans !

I've read the total thread. The original link to the GIF file gives me a blank page and I can't find the link to the PDF file. Any help ?[]

Richard

Bipe Flyer

For the GIF you'll need to right click > save as. Large GIF files cannot be displayed in a browser on some computers.

To download the PDF files in one ZIP, use this link. There is the plan along with seperate sheets for the dihedral braces and ribs.
[link=http://www.donatelli.net/LST.zip]http://www.donatelli.net/LST.zip[/link]

rszanti

Thanks Bipe

The GIF file at [link=http://groups.msn.com/12Aalltheway]http://groups.msn.com/12Aalltheway [/link] (documents, plans, LST-1/2A-trainer.gif) now works, why it didn't yesterday is beyond me . I also grabbed a copy of the PDF file at [link=http://www.donatelli.net/LST.zip]http://www.donatelli.net/LST.zip[/link]. Sure would be nice if there was a way to keep certain data and links such as these at the beginning, or end, of a thread. It would same a lot of time consuming reading and searching for those of us that joined a thread of this size a little late.

Richard .

D Bronk

.Time to give the trainer some attention.GOING for an opperation in the Hospital on Friday.So, just in case ,I ought to get this finished up, in case it`s the last thing I do..THEY tell me ,I`ll be in, and out,in the same day[X(].I just hope, it`s, ON my feet ,in both directions.What they used to keep you in there for,for days ,is now a 1 day thing ,amazing[X(]....

.Well I found a neat pattern ,for ski`s ,and will need them, for this plane ,since I can`t see the ground anymore..

Bipe Flyer

I've read that metal skis aren't as good as wood because the snow tends to stick to them, although I have no actual experience. They sure look like an easier way to get the job done though. You could wax them to prevent snow from sticking.

D Bronk

I haven`t totally made up my mind on which skis yet, going to look at all options.These just look so simple and could be quite light.I think the only time, snow would stick to them ,would be ,if they were warm, and set down on the snow ,before they got down to temperature.BUT I have Auto waxes(not for general public sale)that I use when I`m working. That stuff is unbeleiveably slippery.Nothing sticks to it.Would be intresting to see.All my old snowmachines have steel skis and they don`t have any trouble except, if they come out of a warm shop,then they`ll stick to snow too.. Still looking ,till tommorow though, going to go get some materials for ???,.from a different store again..

D Bronk

Biper I was just making the ply-mounts and found a small thing with the drawing .Nothing serious, easy fix I think. Or did I make the gear out of the wrong wire .I got to check again

Bipe Flyer

Yeah, that looks backwards.

D Bronk

For a second there, I thought, I grabbed the wrong wire by accident,and made, brand new , garbage...LOL.

D Bronk

Andrew this weight of 20 oz..What is actually included with this weight?? .Wheels, Engine ??I want to do a bit of math ,and get a rough idea of flying weight ,so I can make up a ski, that will carry this plane nicely.