dmbaerry

Ok I have a start...

dmbaerry

Ok.. so this being my first build, where is the best place to get the balsa wood.. I was thinking of Balsa Usa

NEW222

Wish you luck in your build. Not really any response to mine, but I will watch. Easy build. Good luck.

Andrew

My preference is Lone Star Balsa, but others may have their favorites.

hllywdb

Have you tried the LHS (Local Hobby Store)? I use mine all the time for balsa. Prices are good and the more we support them, the better they do and stock more of the things we need. Just my 2 cents

dmbaerry

hllywdb I will try my LHS once I find one.. I have done some research and did not find one as of yet... Maybe Greensboro NC but I am not sure..

dmbaerry

New22,
I learned on 3 channels way back when, so I think building a wing w/o ailerons will be fine.. you can always build a second wing later.

hllywdb

Another trick that has been used for years is to build it with ailerons and lock the linkage at first.

dmbaerry

true, I was just thinking he said he had one wing built already...

dmbaerry

so I have to start from scratch,, I no longer have any of my building tools or anything. It has been at least 15 years since I have built anything so of to the store this weekend for some building supplies.. any suggestions on must haves for the workshop?

EmericChou

like yr idea!

mr_rapid

You couldn't have chosen a better design for a trainer. I like your plans, very good. Will it hurt your feelings if I use them?

jcz

The plans show the wing as one continuous construction, but if you build it that way, how do you put in the dihedral?

Andrew

It's not. You can build it as two panels or as one and cut it two. The dihedral braces for ailerons and without ailerons are given in the parts list. The braces are placed between the main spar as opposed to laminated to the sides of the spars.

MrGoodwreck

I guess it is my turn,

I have all of the wood, and as soon as I finish up the framework on the two Q-tee's I have going on, There will be two of these on the building board. Should be able to start this weekend.[>:]

dmbaerry

Ok.. great MrGoodwreck. I will be following as this is on my short list.

PatrickCurry

My Feedback: (20)

I'm still here watching too, Mr. Goodwreck.  

Cycotravlr

Can someone please tell me what the definition is for "1/2A & 1/8A" Airplane?

hllywdb

Technically speaking, 1/2A is motors that are .050 in size. (Maybe shortened from "Half a cubic inch) The rule was stretched a bit to include the .051 Cox for people who wanted to use the same plane in multiple events. This would make the .020 motors "1/4A". This is technically speaking.

The forum is a bit different. We generally include .061 motors (1 CC) as we are supposed to be adopting the metric system and in the spirit of enhancing East-West relations. From there it starts to get fuzzy. After you crash and rebuild a plane 5.4 times (3.2 if you use epoxy) you need to bolt in a .074 to get it flying. So we include those as well. Additionally, if you crash over 10 times, or mistakenly cut your ribs out of plywood, you might need to move to an .09 to get it airborne. Hey, if you crashed the same plane 10 times and still haven't quit, you came to the right place. Then there are a couple of people that feel that a Sig Hummer or GLH with a TD .09 makes for some relaxed afternoon flying. And since CP usually posts a lot of good advice and hints, it would be just wrong to exclude him. Plus a lot of us know it's just a matter of time before he bolts a Nelson 40 onto a GLH and most of us are looking forward to the video.

Hope this clears things up.

GallopingGhostler

Used to be that 1/2-A referred to engines .050 or smaller as a general class. Larger up to I forget what, .15? was the "A" class. AFAIK, the Cox .051 Tee Dee was created so modelers could compete in the "A" class competition for free flight with a half-A sized motor.

Then there were those who subdivided the half-A's into: 1/4-A for the .020's, .024's, etc. 1/8-A would be the .010, such as the Cox Tee Dee, I think there was a British diesel of that size, too.

A, B, C, etc. engine size classifications have been dropped for a long time, at least for sport modelers. Anyway, I'm sure there are others who can give info with a lot more detail.

jdwardus

My Feedback: (2)

hello everyone havent been on here in a while. its been several years since i build a airplane. but i got that erge again. i would like to build this one first somthing simple. is there a dfx file for the wing. i havent been able to find one. between 2004 to around 2007 i build several of bibe flyers planes. allways looked up to him as the man. loved his planes

Andrew

Attached is a tiled PDF of the plane. In the first post of this thread, Bipe has also posted links to ZIP files that contain all the drawings you'll need for the build.

jdwardus

My Feedback: (2)

theres dxf file for the fusealage is there not for the wing

jayd3

Thanks Bipe for making this
I'm interested
Being the largest and most complicated part a easy to build on a flat board (maybe leading edge shimmed for semi) wing is essential.
In the instructions please mention the two commonly over looked things that make for success or failure: leveling of the stabilizer with the wings and balancing the wings, if you do those even a pretty imperfectly built plane will fly well, fuselage may be crocked a bit in really bad case but it will fly .
I just bought a crashed Sig Kadet jr at flea market if that tells you how much I like them ?
Now to get my old OK cubs in shape to fly.
Fly with the Bear OK cub

Jay

Bipe Flyer

It's been over a decade since I posted the plans (I can't believe it's been that long), so I figured I might as well build one of these myself. Actually, I'm building it with my 9 year old son so he can learn to fly.

As some of you may know, I prefer sheeted foam wings, but I figured I would show him how to do a built up wing for his first plane.

First evening building...