armatage

does anyone know where i can purchase the clear Fuji 35mm film canister to use as fuel tanks. if anyone can provide a source i would be very grateful

raptor11

My Feedback: (4)

Try contacting some local photographers/studios in your area. I'm sure they'll have a couple of them lying around. Unless they went digitial, then you'll have to scrounge around for something similar, like say a pill bottle, or even going to the 5 & 10 store or dollar store for a suitable substitue. Good Luck!

Raptor 11

jbford

Check with your local Wal-Mart or other business that does photo finishing. They have a set time when they take all the empties to the recycling bin (here it is 0700-0800). Usually all you have to do is ask, then show up and claim them. You will have to take a lot of the Kodak cans also but will have a lifetime supply of the Fuji cans....DO NOT ask them to 'hold' the cans for you, they ain't got room for that and they HAVE to get rid of them 'cause it is on their morning shift task list.

Andrew

The local Walmart has been an excellent source for me, also. If the photoprocessing department is not busy, I'll ask them for 2 or 3 -- they have been willing to pick out the Fuji's with tops. I'll generally stop by when I'm there -- over a period of time, I've collected quite a few.

rrragmanliam

My Feedback: (1)

If your really in a jam you can buy some fuji film and throw it away (I actualy did this) Also on the subject has anyone had a problem with the canister cracking around the fuel orafaces? I usualy drill the feed line dead center, were the molded depression is, and the vent/ pressure line above that. I have had two of these tanks crack around one of the orafaces and completly fuel soak planes. I use a sharpened brass tube to cut the holes and go gently. I test them befor instlalation, yet I've had two of them fail on me with very unplesent consiquences. I have stopped using them for this reason. I have a couple of aplications where I would like to use them again, but I'm a little hesitant to do so.

Opinions

Darren

DICKEYBIRD

I've had a couple that cracked too Darren. It stopped when I changed from the pink (Prather?) tubing to some softer blue stuff. I think it may have to do with the plastic composition as well.

On the last few I made, I carefully heated the holes with the flame from my little micro butane torch. Not much, just a little suggestion of heat....just enough to melt the rough edge left by the drill. HTH!

ps: Armatage if you can't find any, yell and I'll send you a couple.

rrragmanliam

My Feedback: (1)

Thats a good Idea DB. Perhaps a touch of heat releaves any stress area's around the hole before a crack can start.

I'll try it, thanks for the tip.

Darren

tperry2054

My Feedback: (15)

Something else to try: Use a soldering iron with the right size tip and melt the hole instad of drilling. If you don't have, or can't find the right size to suit, supstitute a nail for the size you need.

Tight lines,

Tom

BMatthews

The sizing of these holes is quite important. Instead of the rather crude sizing of the brass tubing you would be better off using number drills and sneak up on a size that just puts enough but no more pressure on the line to seal but not stress.

I also like the idea of flaming the hole with a lighter to round the edges of the hole. That would act like a hole in a crack in plexiglass to spread the stress and stop the crack's travel. ALternately you may be right and the heat is relieving some built in stress but I suspect it's the elimination of sharp edges. The lighter may have made the hole larger too and that brings us back to the number drills.

A set of number drills has been a mainstay in my shop for years. It should be in yours as well. You can pick them up at the cheap tool places that are flourishing these days. The ones where they sell lots of cheap home machinist and woodworking tools like Harbour Frieght or equivalent. I suspect Home "Despot" has them too but the set would be pricey.

armatage

thanks for all of your help, i will try walmart today and let you know what i find out.

armatage

well went to walmart. the associates weren't as helpful as i had hoped so if anyone here has any to sell i will gladly paypal you

DICKEYBIRD

PM me your address and I'll be happy to send you some.

WOW-OOPS

I have been using Kodak film canisters for fuel tanks. They have worked fine for me. I have three in use now. I can't use a fuel pump because it pops off the lid so I use a 2-ounce syringe.

Bipe Flyer

Has anyone tried using silicone to seal/hold on the lid? I did this with a smal bottle that I used as a tank for an .020 and it works well.

jboy381-RCU

bipe,
i think it should be done on all film tanks...i've had mine for a wile now and it's starting to leak around the lid...now i have to figure out how to get fuel out of the balsa...any tips for doing that???the next thing i use a film tank in,i will seal the lid with silicone...

john

DesignMan

Silicone Seal isn't all that fuelproof. HOWEVER Goop adhesive is! Drill the holes full size and then just Goop the tubing into position. For lots more tips, look at the "Tanks fer Nuttin" article in Flying Models a couple of years ago.

Bipe Flyer

I thought that glow fuel tubing was silicone.

I've used talcum powder to get oil out of balsa. I dripped some Castor onto a sheeted wing that I hadn't covered yet. I applied the talcum powder, let it sit overnight and then vacuumed it up. It took several applications to remove it all. If you blow on the talcum powder and some sticks, then you need to do it again. I don't know if it will work with wood that is completely soaked.

DICKEYBIRD

There's a spot cleaning product called "K2r" sold in grocery stores. You shake it up, spray it on, let it dry until it turns to powder and brush off the powder. Sucks the oil right out!

Which_way_is_up

I googled for the article and the author's name looks familiar! [X(] Do you have to sign a non disclosure document when you get paid for an article?

ClemenTang

Not sure if it will work but I would put a short length of fuel tube half through the hole then press the brass/alum tube into the fuel tube to achieve a tight seal.

Clement

Andrew

Clement --

Here is [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1847112/anchors_1847112/mpage_1/key_fuji%252Cfilm%252Ctank/anchor/tm.htm#1847112]thread[/link] showing exactly what you did -- I have not had cracking problems, perhaps because it is a plastic/silicone seal rather than having the brass tubing in direct contact. I used the insulation only because the LHS did not have 1/2A fuel tubing in stock -- several of the forum members use the Sullivan 1/2A tubing because it is more flexible than the standard small fuel tubing -- if you have it, I would use it rather than insulation.

the "other" andrew

Bipe Flyer

Maybe the tanks would stand up better if they were boiled first.

Uncas

My Feedback: (1)

I have a dumb question. Why do you guys use film canisters instead of just buying a small tank from the hobby store?

Bipe Flyer

Commercial 1oz tanks are big, bulky and the rubber stopper is 1/3 the size of the whole tank. I wish that Hayes made a 1 oz tank.

DICKEYBIRD

Cuz they're CHEAP! (I love cheap)

Seriously though, like B/F said, the commercially available tanks in our size range are, ahem, "clunky." The film canister tanks, when done properly are light, compact and hold just the right amount of fuel for a good flight....plus cheap.